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#1512128 03/05/06 10:57 PM
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Bring it to have codes scanned, even though you have no CEL.

You can throw a code and not have a CEL for certain ones.


Tony 1998 SVT Contour (B/MB) #542 3L 1998 SVT Contour (SF/MB) #1266 parts car 2000 SVT Contour (SF/MB) #1533 3L swap to begin!
#1512129 03/06/06 12:25 AM
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how old is your alternator?


Kim 1995 Contour GL Needs less "needs more"
#1512130 03/06/06 03:50 AM
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how many miles are on your car?

When was the last time you replaced the spark plugs, spark plug wires and ran a bottle of fuel injector cleaner with a tank of gas?

If your car has over 75,000 miles on it and the serpentine belt that runs the engine accessories has never been changed, it should be.

Worn spark plugs with a larger gap require a higher voltage to build up before the spark jumps the gap and becasue a higher voltage needs to be achieved the resulting spark is not as hot. Degraded spark plug wires will have a similar effect.

Lower spark temperature will cause a notable change in the ability to initiate the fuel burn especailly when there is a rapid change in manifold pressure like when you step on the gas a little as you let the clutch out. Cold wether only aggrivates the problem.

Worn serpentine belt can allow the altenator pulley to slip slightly, just enough that it turns slower than the engine but not so slow that it squeels. This ammount slower is just enough that the altenator can't make the power it needs to when the engine is idling. Also if the belt is worn, cold weather will only make allow the belt to slip all the more before it starts to squeel.

If your car has over 70,000 miles it is not unresonable to suspect the altenator is nearing the end of its life and is getting tired and sometimes doesn't make full power.


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#1512131 03/06/06 04:30 PM
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Thanks for the suggestions.

My car has over 118,XXX miles. The plugs and wires were changed less than a year ago. I run some injector cleaner through pretty regularly. I've done it several times in the last few weeks. B-12 specifically.

Alternator? I'm not sure. I don't remember that ever being changed. I had some electrical problems 6 weeks ago and thought that might be the culprit, but it was a short. But the alternator still might not be at 100%.

I'll see if they will pull the codes for me. One time I tried that (I was trying to make sure I had fixed a problem) and they said that they wouldn't try to pull the codes unless your CEL was on, because there would definitely be nothing to read. AZone.

How hard is it to change out an alternator? What do they run? Are there different kinds? I'm pretty ignorant about that sort of thing. How do you test one?

What about the killing thing? The car starts right back up, so unless I'm missing something I doubt the alt. is the cause there.

Darn, I sure like this car, and can't really afford to replace it right now. But DAM there are lots of problems beginning to come up. I know, I know older cars do that.

Thanks for the suggestions.


MUST SELL - ECM computer new for a 98 V6 mtx + pats Now trolling in a Red Nissan 4 x 4
#1512132 03/06/06 04:37 PM
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Originally posted by mean'tour:


I'll see if they will pull the codes for me. One time I tried that (I was trying to make sure I had fixed a problem) and they said that they wouldn't try to pull the codes unless your CEL was on, because there would definitely be nothing to read. AZone.




Just go to Advanced Auto Parts instead. They give you a scanner to go out to the car and scan yourself. It logs the codes, then you go inside, they hook it up to a printer and print out a receipt with the codes.

My car had a fuel pump code held in memory that did not show a CEL. Nothing wrong with the car, but had to pull the fuse to install the new fuel filter and forgot to reset the ECU.


Tony 1998 SVT Contour (B/MB) #542 3L 1998 SVT Contour (SF/MB) #1266 parts car 2000 SVT Contour (SF/MB) #1533 3L swap to begin!
#1512133 03/06/06 04:42 PM
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Man, I gotta learn how to use my software for my laptop. I have have all the stuff to read codes and run diags, I just don't know how to use it. Tried using it once and got impatient. Brapple, you gotta walk me through it!!

Anyway, did you check the TPS (throttle position sensor)? When they go, it messes with your idle and can cause it to stall.


00 SVT Contour (1584) 04 F-350 XLT Sport V10 02 Honda Spirit 750 64 390 FE Big Block
#1512134 03/06/06 04:46 PM
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Originally posted by Cobra:
Brapple, you gotta walk me through it!!





sure i'll take a look at it


- 95 Mystique LS - Zetec/5spd - 99 Contour SeVT Sport - Duratec/5spd Official NE-CEG Contour/Mustang Family
#1512135 03/06/06 10:15 PM
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Originally posted by Cobra:
Man, I gotta learn how to use my software for my laptop. I have have all the stuff to read codes and run diags, I just don't know how to use it. Tried using it once and got impatient. Brapple, you gotta walk me through it!!

Anyway, did you check the TPS (throttle position sensor)? When they go, it messes with your idle and can cause it to stall.




How do you check the TPS? It is actually new, relatively. It was replaced in the past 3-4 years. It went out and I was killing at random times... But it had broken off, so they had to pull the tranny to replace it. That was fun, they did the clutch while they were in there.





MUST SELL - ECM computer new for a 98 V6 mtx + pats Now trolling in a Red Nissan 4 x 4
#1512136 03/07/06 12:24 PM
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I hope your thinking of something else, because the TPS is mounted on the throttle body. There's no need to remove the tranny to replace it. Should take under 2 minutes to replace. To check it mecahnically, remove it and check to see that the part that looks like a flat head screwdriver moves freely. I'm not sure how to tell if its fried electrically.


00 SVT Contour (1584) 04 F-350 XLT Sport V10 02 Honda Spirit 750 64 390 FE Big Block
#1512137 03/07/06 02:13 PM
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Originally posted by Cobra:
<b>I hope you're thinking of something else</b>, because the TPS is mounted on the throttle body. There's no need to remove the tranny to replace it. Should take under 2 minutes to replace. To check it mecahnically, remove it and check to see that the part that looks like a flat head screwdriver moves freely. I'm not sure how to tell if its fried electrically.




I hope so too! But those are the symptoms that I had, the random dying... The description my mechanic gave was that the computer couldn't read the engine speed or something, and got confused. Maybe it was the TSS? Tranmission Speed Sensor or something? It was several years ago. Whatever they did fixed it.

Any photos of this TPS? Is it a part you can just get at AZone? Or would I have to go to Ford?



Thanks! Is


MUST SELL - ECM computer new for a 98 V6 mtx + pats Now trolling in a Red Nissan 4 x 4
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