|
|
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 2,097
Hard-core CEG\'er
|
OP
Hard-core CEG\'er
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 2,097 |
I am still thinking of the finishing touches on my 2nd turbo set-up. What are you guys using? Anyone with copper pipe? Did you heat it to bend it? Anyone using just hose? and if so what kind are you using that doesn;t start to crimp and bend with the heat?
98 E0 SVT with some stuff
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,224
Hard-core CEG\'er
|
|
Hard-core CEG\'er
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,224 |
I was thinking of using some high-temp silicone line. Check out JGS Precision's Basic Turbo Drain Line Kit. Why risk destroying your engine with something that could crack or break? HTH, BP
Ben ---'96 Contour GL * Zetec ATX * Tan on Black steelies---
+++JRSC M62 Under Construction+++
My big-a$$ mod list. 
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 5,810
Hard-core CEG'er
|
|
Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 5,810 |
Originally posted by stilov:
I am still thinking of the finishing touches on my 2nd turbo set-up. What are you guys using? Anyone with copper pipe? Did you heat it to bend it? Anyone using just hose? and if so what kind are you using that doesn;t start to crimp and bend with the heat?
I've had pictures up years ago and even recently of my drain.
The whole piece is copper pipe, 1/2" diameter with a compression fitting in the pan. You can unbolt it easily from the turbo and the pan and remove it. You have to use the pipe and buy the 45 degree and one 90 degree elbows. THen you use plumbing solder and a torch to put it all together. THe beauty of it is that the 1/2" compression fitting fit right into the turbo drain piece that came with my turbo and I just bought one with a 1/2" tubing exit, then I routed the pieces and pre assembled them since they are all slip-fit joints. I took about a half hour with a hacksaw and the elbows to make a nice sloping drain down to the pan, bypassing the exhaust, etc. Then once it is in place you just mark all the joints with a black sharpie with a line perpendicular to the joint seam. then pull it off and solder it all together. If it isn't right, or you need adjustment you just melt the solder and adjust till it fits.
Once complete it will last the life of the engine I'm sure.
Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760
356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas!
See My Mods
'05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red
'06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 2,097
Hard-core CEG\'er
|
|
OP
Hard-core CEG\'er
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 2,097 |
so I made my copper return line for the turbo...honestly it took more than 30min... and I could barely get it around the headers...but barely works for me!!!! Then on with the down pipe!!!!
98 E0 SVT with some stuff
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 1,336
Hard-core CEG\'er
|
|
Hard-core CEG\'er
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 1,336 |
I just finished mine last night ... I will post up pictures later. I used a 45 desgree elbow, 1/2 NTP on one side, -10AN on the other. I tapped the block instead of the pan, just right of the oil filter/cooler assembly. I then ran a SS braided 1/2" tubing with -10AN ends. Took quite awhile because I had to use the fitting to thread the hole since I was unable to find a tap that large. When done, I plan on using some more QuickSteel to cold weld it to the outside of the block to elimnate the chance of oil seep through ... pictures will tell the story better than my descirption.
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 5,810
Hard-core CEG'er
|
|
Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 5,810 |
Originally posted by stilov:
so I made my copper return line for the turbo...honestly it took more than 30min... and I could barely get it around the headers...but barely works for me!!!! Then on with the down pipe!!!!
Well, if you were as good as I am, 30 min would be enough to do it twice. 
J/k
It should work great.
Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760
356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas!
See My Mods
'05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red
'06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 1,336
Hard-core CEG\'er
|
|
Hard-core CEG\'er
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 1,336 |
Here you go: 3/4" hole in the block drilled
1/2" NPT on the block end, -10AN on the hose end. Hose is -10AN ... roughly 5/8".
I got the hose too short, so I will be returning this one and ordering one the proper length, but can't do so until I get the headers/up-pipe installed. Headers are on their way 
Last edited by fastcougar; 02/28/06 04:51 AM.
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 2,097
Hard-core CEG\'er
|
|
OP
Hard-core CEG\'er
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 2,097 |
I was gonna say...seems like a gutsy install to do before headers are on.
98 E0 SVT with some stuff
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 1,336
Hard-core CEG\'er
|
|
Hard-core CEG\'er
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 1,336 |
Plenty of room  
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 5,810
Hard-core CEG'er
|
|
Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 5,810 |
Originally posted by fastcougar:
Plenty of room
I don't know, unless that is your manifold you are using. The clearances change a bit.
and as for the height, you many not have left a lot of room for drainage.
I also just hate cutting the block unless I had a really good plan for it, like welding on an aluminum nipple maybe.
Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760
356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas!
See My Mods
'05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red
'06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
|
|
|
|
|
