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#1506688 02/18/06 09:46 PM
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Hey guys this morning when I was leaving for work I started the engine a proceeded to release the emergency, like any other day, and it made aseries of clicks on the way down like it was skipping accross the teeth. I pulled it apart on my lunch break and unbolted the e-brake. Now the rear brakes are free but I cannot get the e-brake assembly lined up with the holes. Is my e-brake assembly bad? Do I need to disconnect the e-brake cable to get it realigned to bolt it back up? TIA
-tropictour


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Anyone? Need help fast.
-tropictour


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#1506690 02/19/06 01:53 AM
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I think nobody is really sure what you are asking for. So I will just throw anything and everything at you.
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1b/d9/47/0900823d801bd947.jsp

To remove console.
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1b/da/e7/0900823d801bdae7.jsp

And this thread mentions removing the console where the parking lever is to see the cables.
http://www.contour.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=trouble&Number=701245&page=&view=&sb=5&o=&fpart=1&vc=1

From 1996 Ford CD,


Cable and Conduit


Front


Removal

1. Fully release parking brake.

2. Raise vehicle on hoist.

3. Lower exhaust system and remove heat shields.

4. Disengage parking brake rear cable and conduits from parking brake cable and equalizer.

5. Lower vehicle.

6. Remove console.

7. Route parking brake cable and equalizer through hole in floor pan.

8. Remove parking brake cable and equalizer from parking brake control.


Installation

1. Position parking brake cable and equalizer on parking brake control.

2. Release cable tension as outlined.

3. Route parking brake cable and equalizer through hole in floor pan. Install grommet into opening.



4. Raise vehicle on hoist.

5. Connect parking brake rear cable and conduits to parking brake cable and equalizer.

6. Install heat shields and raise exhaust system.

7. Lower vehicle.

8. Install console.

9. Operate parking brake control several times to set adjuster.


Rear


Removal

1. Fully release parking brake control.

2. Raise vehicle on hoist.

3. Lower exhaust system and remove heat shields.

4. Disengage parking brake rear cable and conduit from parking brake cable and equalizer.

5. Remove parking brake rear cable and conduit from routing brackets.



6. On disc brake vehicles, remove parking brake rear cable and conduit from the rear disc brake caliper.

7. On vehicles equipped with drum brakes, remove parking brake rear cable and conduit from parking brake lever.




Installation

1. On vehicles equipped with drum brakes, connect parking brake rear cable and conduit to parking brake lever.

2. On vehicles equipped with disc brakes, connect parking brake rear cable and conduit to rear disc brake caliper.

3. Position parking brake rear cable and conduit in routing clips.

4. Attach parking brake rear cable and conduits to parking brake cable and equalizer.

5. Install heat shields and raise exhaust system.

6. Lower vehicle.

7. Adjust cable tension by operating parking brake control several times.


Good luck.

Last edited by Tony2005; 02/19/06 02:08 AM.

"Always do the cheap and easy ones first." 1996 V6 ATX 96K miles
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Ok I got it fixed it just needed readjustment. But now my car will not start. It turns over and I can smell gas. Ive been searching and saw that a few people had a problem with PATS. I did disconnect the little plug that connects to the parking brake assembly. And it connects down at the computer box that says "restraint system". Does the computer just need to be reset? Thanks
-tropictour


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#1506692 02/19/06 11:27 PM
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Originally posted by tropictour:
... Does the computer just need to be reset? ..



Yes, try that first.


"Always do the cheap and easy ones first." 1996 V6 ATX 96K miles
#1506693 02/20/06 12:15 AM
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Yeah I unhooked it for about 20 minutes then reconnected the terminals. It still did the same thing, so I thought well let me scan for codes. Scanned and took it back to where I work and the prinout said no codes present. So I am at a loss right now. Any ideas guys. I am lost. And to make things worse my other car(mustang) got broken in to last night and the ignition column is fugged. So yeah Im walkin.
-tropictour

Last edited by tropictour; 02/20/06 12:19 AM.

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Well Ive been searching for about an hour and found that it may be the crankshaft position sensor. Is this a dealer only part? Would this cause the cranking but no fire symptom?
-tropictour


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#1506695 02/20/06 03:20 AM
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Originally posted by tropictour:
Yeah I unhooked it for about 20 minutes then reconnected the terminals. It still did the same thing, so I thought well let me scan for codes. Scanned and took it back to where I work and the prinout said no codes present. So I am at a loss right now....



The codes are lost when you reset the PCM.

You may want to try pushing the gas pedal halfway down when you crank. It could be a IAC valve problem and/or you may have flooded the engine.

"the crankshaft position sensor. Is this a dealer only part?"
Yes.

"Would this cause the cranking but no fire symptom?"
Yes.

But if you suspect the CKP, you should check the wiring at the connector first.

Last edited by Tony2005; 02/20/06 03:25 AM.

"Always do the cheap and easy ones first." 1996 V6 ATX 96K miles
#1506696 02/20/06 07:06 AM
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i know this sounds like a stupid thing but maybe its a fuel line/fuel filter problem, seeings as how the car turns over but dosent start and the E-brake cables are right next to the fuel line. Just a guess.


99 TRed Contour SVT # 1853 out of 2760 230.2 WHP @ 6500 237.0 WTR @ 2250
Originally posted by MxRacer:
Originally posted by RawBurt:
I'll be keeping it to myself, until the time comes. It'll be hard to find.


much like your weiner.


#1506697 02/20/06 07:51 AM
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Yeah but I replaced the fuel filter less than 8 months ago. Im gonna have to call the dealer in the morning and see how much it is. I will definitely check the wiring first though. Thanks guys. I'll fill you in on what happens tomorrow.
-tropictour


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