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Joined: May 2002
Posts: 21,653
I have no life
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I have no life
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 21,653 |
I've never seen anyone leave to get gas at autox.
And I also agree that less weight is always better.
If you're serious about it, and a good enough driver that a change in weight is going to make a difference, then you'll also be serious enough to have the right springs and ride heights (coilovers). Adding weight would just be a temporary fix for a car that isn't setup correctly. Besides that, changing tire pressures can probably negate any positive effects additional weight would result in.
98.5 SVT
91 Escort GT (almost sold)
96 ATX Zetec (i brake to watch you swerve)
FS: SVT rear sway bar
WTB: Very cheap beater
CEG Dragon Run - October 13-15
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Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 751
Veteran CEG\'er
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Veteran CEG\'er
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 751 |
I've had fuel starvation before. I crossed my fingers when I went to the station and bought a single gallon of gas to finish up my runs.
Whirling dervish of FFOG.
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,140
Hard-core CEG\'er
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OP
Hard-core CEG\'er
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,140 |
I have seen two types of people make any changes to their car during an event:
1) Very fast drivers with fully prepped cars that are still getting sorted out, or turned out to be set up very wrong for the course. Usually this is all done beforehand, but I've seen someone fast mess with their car a few times.
2) Relative newbies (or even old-timers) who are not fast - at all - and are blaming the car.
You have to be quite good to be able to make a small weight distribution, tire pressure, or even alignment change for the better. My worst days were where I got frustrated and worked on the car instead of me. At the event, the only thing you need to to is relax, and drive better. That's where all the time will come from - not the car.
Adjusting tires to keep wear even under changing temperatures is an exception, by the way: you're usually actually keeping the pressure the same to keep the car constant, not changing it.
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Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 2,100
Hard-core CEG\'er
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Hard-core CEG\'er
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 2,100 |
I guess I must fall into #2 I make changes to tire pressures/shock settings after a run or two on a new surface and it seems to help (but it could just be me driving better after doing it).
Beaten - 2003 MazdaSpeed Protege 29K <- broken hearted
Daily/Weekend Beater - 1990 miata 138K - AutoX every weekend = Adult driven on weekends
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Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 4,149
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 4,149 |
Originally posted by SVTfrog: If you're serious about it, and a good enough driver that a change in weight is going to make a difference, then you'll also be serious enough to have the right springs and ride heights (coilovers).
The "right springs and ride height" (and I would add sway bar), in an optimum sense, depends on the course. Assuming you don't want to be changing springs, et.al. after walking the course then your suspension setup will be a compromise; period. Adding rear ballast changes the pivot point and is far quicker and easier to do than changing to the "right spring" for the course.
Originally posted by SVTfrog: Besides that, changing tire pressures can probably negate any positive effects additional weight would result in.
Please elaborate.
-- 1999 SVT #220 --
In retrospect, it was all downhill from here. RIP, CEG.
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,140
Hard-core CEG\'er
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OP
Hard-core CEG\'er
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Posts: 4,140 |
Originally posted by moxnix: I guess I must fall into #2
I make changes to tire pressures/shock settings after a run or two on a new surface and it seems to help (but it could just be me driving better after doing it).
You're fast. From what I've seen your driving is usually on a very good line - still time out there, but not seconds. You also have well-setup cars, usually. You're also setting tire pressures and shocks, which are extremely course dependant, and doing it on a momentum car. So, I stand (slightly) corrected. There are, of course, gray areas. You're not winning nationals, and you don't have a super-tweaked machine, but I'd hang you off the bottom of the 1) category instead of on the top of 2).
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Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 8,281
Captain Impound Boy
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Captain Impound Boy
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 8,281 |
auto-x,
You gonna come out to MI this year to run a Open track with us?
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,140
Hard-core CEG\'er
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OP
Hard-core CEG\'er
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,140 |
Maybe. I'll be looking for opportunities, but I have a lot going on (new house, marraige, etc.)
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Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 2,387
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 2,387 |
I was debating the whole shifting weight thing the other day. Even with an aussie bar I still think the car is nowhere as neutral as it should be.
I believe that without tuned spring rates sending weight backwards will not help the car. Making the most of the tire's contact pack is the best way to be quick, period. By moving weight backward you are just hurting the understeer problem, essentially making the front end act more stiff in the car's over all balance, and the rear less stiff.
My point is, moving weight backward is a waste of time. We really should be trying to remove weight, and try to balance spring rates, although I really feel trying to remove weight is a waste of time on a DD. I'm a bit short on money, so i've been toying with the idea of running eibachs front with H&Rs in the rear. I'm curious how well that would balance the car.
The statement about running much higher spring rates in the rear is a good idea. We have some room for a larger bar in front, so even if that is too aggressive it could probably be tuned out easily.
98 3.0 svt: Sold
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 710
Veteran CEG\'er
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Veteran CEG\'er
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 710 |
After installing a rear strut tower brace, my understeer has disappeared and I now have mild oversteer. I'm trying to reduce the oversteer by playing with my rear tire pressure. So... I used to run 51psi in the front and 28 psi in the rear to have pretty much neutral control with mild (controllable) oversteer. I've run only 2 events since installing the RSTB. 1st event I was drifting all over the place. The 2nd event (last month) I upped the rear to 32psi and it was pretty much neutral until I pushed a little harder, then I was drifting again. I'm going to try more pressure in the rear (~35) next month and see what happens. I also haven't been removing my spare+jack for several events... and I run with about 1/2 tank. I once ran with about 1/3 tank, and I fried my pump My suspension is SVT stock except for front and rear urethane swaybar bushings, boxed rear swaybar mounts, and tubular rear control arms.
morbid
2000 Contour SVT (black)
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