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CEG\'er
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Yeah after the line pressure comment I'm kind of weary on even doing this. Last thing I need is a blown transmission.
BP, The zx2 pcm will relearn them very quickly if you keep them also. You wire them up to a switch so that you can control it (switch it on/off) when you want to use it.
96' ATX Zetec- stock
96' ATX Zetec- Modded
Kenwood KDC-319
5.75"-2 MTX 12's
Roady XT
Custom door panels
Mystique Cluster/oil pressure
Getting repainted(in primer)
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Ahhhhh, that makes sense. Kinda like the poor man's boost switch. 
Ben ---'96 Contour GL * Zetec ATX * Tan on Black steelies---
+++JRSC M62 Under Construction+++
My big-a$$ mod list.
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Basically, I'm probably going to try the POTs mod, then later down the line. Take off POTs and install a chip. Do it right, instead of half-a$$d, so to say. 
96' ATX Zetec- stock
96' ATX Zetec- Modded
Kenwood KDC-319
5.75"-2 MTX 12's
Roady XT
Custom door panels
Mystique Cluster/oil pressure
Getting repainted(in primer)
Pre98 Lip
SE skirts
Mystique front lip
dingless
badgeless
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That's cool. Do you know how long does it take from flipping the switch, for the effects to happen?
Ben ---'96 Contour GL * Zetec ATX * Tan on Black steelies---
+++JRSC M62 Under Construction+++
My big-a$$ mod list.
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CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
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AFAIK its almost instant, though I can't say for sure.
Got to thinking, If they blow because of line pressure,... how do chips firm up the shifts?.. This is purely for information. because I want to get a chip sometime. 
Last edited by ZetecGL; 02/08/06 05:06 AM.
96' ATX Zetec- stock
96' ATX Zetec- Modded
Kenwood KDC-319
5.75"-2 MTX 12's
Roady XT
Custom door panels
Mystique Cluster/oil pressure
Getting repainted(in primer)
Pre98 Lip
SE skirts
Mystique front lip
dingless
badgeless
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Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,224
Hard-core CEG\'er
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Good question. I'll be able to tell you more in a few days. I'm getting my SCT xcal2 and Pro Race software soon. In there you play with the shift points and line pressure.
I'm also wondering if the CD4E does have a pressure transducer somewhere. I wouldn't think that the TSS would be enough to regulate pressure reliably. Definitly a question for Unisys in the transmission forum.
**EDIT**
I just shot Unisys a PM. Hopefully he can help out.
**EDIT**
BP
Last edited by ButtonPuncher; 02/08/06 05:20 AM.
Ben ---'96 Contour GL * Zetec ATX * Tan on Black steelies---
+++JRSC M62 Under Construction+++
My big-a$$ mod list.
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Cool, let me know how that comes out man.
96' ATX Zetec- stock
96' ATX Zetec- Modded
Kenwood KDC-319
5.75"-2 MTX 12's
Roady XT
Custom door panels
Mystique Cluster/oil pressure
Getting repainted(in primer)
Pre98 Lip
SE skirts
Mystique front lip
dingless
badgeless
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Joined: Sep 2004
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CEG\'er
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woops, those resistor values are off, its 10 ohm and 20ohm, not 10k ohm and 20k ohm
96' ATX Zetec- stock
96' ATX Zetec- Modded
Kenwood KDC-319
5.75"-2 MTX 12's
Roady XT
Custom door panels
Mystique Cluster/oil pressure
Getting repainted(in primer)
Pre98 Lip
SE skirts
Mystique front lip
dingless
badgeless
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Joined: Aug 2002
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That makes more sense if it's placed across the EPC solenoid. It probably has an on resistance of about 10 ohms. 10-20k would only affect a sensors readings.
That must be a beefy resistor. 20ohms at 13.8volts must dissipate 9.5 watts of heat. That is HOT!
BP
Ben ---'96 Contour GL * Zetec ATX * Tan on Black steelies---
+++JRSC M62 Under Construction+++
My big-a$$ mod list.
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Originally posted by ButtonPuncher:
I just shot Unisys a PM. Hopefully he can help out.
BP
Thanks for the heads up on this BP... nice to have a fun conversation `round here.
Now, down to the nitty gritty smelly ATF covered stuff. 
The only info I have on the EPC is what I have listed in my FAQ's, in the tranny forum, but I will paste it in here as well because it can't hurt...
Electronic Pressure Control
The EPC solenoid is a variable force solenoid that controls line pressure in the transmission. The EPC solenoid
has a feedback circuit in the PCM that monitors EPC current. If the current indicates a short to ground (low
pressure), engine torque may be reduced to prevent damage to the transmission. (P0962, PCA)
No, for the mod of the EPC solenoid. A few people have talked about doing it, but were too afraid to do it. Mainly because none had 2G's laying around to rebuild their tranny. Would it work... Theroredically, yeah sure. As BP mentioned earlier, the CD4E is very sensitive when it comes to high pressure conditions. If you are not careful, you could wined up blowing a seal or two or even worse, cracking a drum. If you are going to do it, I would suggest only doing it if you have a way to monitor your pressure very closely. Cheapest way of doing this is with an old fashioned transmission pressure tester. Basically, it looks just like a compression tester with a nozzle that screws in the case of the tranny and a long tube that runs up to a measuring device. Might even been the same thing, but I have not actually seen one in person. Do a search on Summit or JEG's website, I think they have what I am talking about. You will also need to monitor the seperate shift circuits pressures as well.
To check these pressures - To check the main line pressure, you will find a plug on the driver side of the tranny case located by the pump housing. To check the circuit pressures, look down the left hand side of your valve body cover and you will see three small plugs sticking out of the case. That would be those.
Coming off your EPC, you will be affecting your overall line pressure, TV Pressure and the fluid flow to the TFT (transmission fluid temp sensor). Overally system line pressure runs within a range of 50-175 PSI in D,2 and 1. And 73-252 in P,N and R. Your TV pressure should always be within 0-90 PSI at all times.
Your TV pressure helps control the Line Modulator Valve and the Main Regulator Valve. From what I can tell in the oil schematic I have, it seems as though the TV pressure creates a balance against these two pistons when the higher main line pressures are applied to them, as well as helps with opening and closing the pistons.
Now... giving all this info I just layed out, I "personally" would not do it. The "bang" you get, for the risk you take doesn't seem to be enough to justify it to me. But again, I want to make it very clear - that is just me. Maybe I am getting old in my old age, so...   But since I bring up old age, it leads me to ask myself, "Why wouldn't it hurt to try?" I would have to answer nothing, as long as you know what your doing. If it doesn't work or seems the pressure is running out of control - shut the car off and take the mod out. If there are problems, running the car for an extremely short time would not hurt.
In other words, my advice is to monitor your line pressure. Install the mod in a way that it can quickly be removed. Perform the procedure in your drive way and not at a friends house.
If you do decide to do it though, feel free to shoot me a PM and I will be glad to answer any other questions or concerns you might have. 
Phillip Jackson
`98 Mystique LS
262K+ and counting...
ATX rebuilt @ 151K
"This storm has broken me, my only friend!" RIP Dime
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