Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications Duratec Maintenance How-to: Install Focus SVT Fuel Pump

I know this is hard to read. I REALLY don't feel like cleaning it up (for obvious reasons).

How-to: Focus SVT Fuel Pump by CEGer Pale Horse

The Quickest Way To Do This Is To First Remove The Lower Section Of Your Backseats. You Can Lift The Rubber Grommet And Gain Access To The Fuel Pump From There. However All I Recommend You Do Here Is Release The Fuel Lines And Wiring Harness From That Area. There Should Be Two Fuel Lines That You Can Squeeze And They Will Release And A Wire Retained Wiring Harness That Is Simple As Well. Unless You Have A Returnless (99-2000 Model Years) In Which There Will Be Only One Fuel Line.

Go Ahead And Disconnect Your Battery. Move To The Underside Of The Car( It Should Be On Jackstands And Have Plenty Of Clearance)

Directly To The Left Of The PASS Side Rear Wheel Is The Fuel Filter. We Need To Disconnect It On The Rear Side Of The Filter And Remove The Bolt Clamp That Holds It On.
***Be Careful As We Are Letting The Fuel Pressure Out Here So The Pressurized Fuel In The Tank Side Lines Will Be Emptied. Have A Bucket Or Something Ready As Well As Some Rags!***

Once This Step Is Done You Will Need To Lower The Exhaust. You Could Completely Remove It If You Want To, But I Just Removed The Hangers From The Resonator Back And Propped It Up So It Wouldn't Hang Too Low And Flex Too Much At The Y-Pipe. We Just Need About Five Inches To Get To One Of The Tank Strap Bolts. This Part Will Probably Need Two People.

Once You've Lowered The Exhaust You SHould Easily See The Passenger Side Strap Bolt. Leave This one Alone For Now. The Drivers Side Strap Bolt Is Located Under The Heat Shield Nearest The Resonator. Its Easy To Find; Just Trace The Strap! You'll Have To Remove This Heat Sheild To Get To The Bolt.(One Side May Be Rivetted In And You May Only Be Able TO Rotate It To One Side)

Now You Can Remove The Strap Bolts. Have A Drunk Friend Ready To Help! Dont Remove Them All The Way As There Are Still Some Lines To Be Disconnected On Top Of The Tank. Once You Have The Room You Will See On Top Of The Tank Three More Lines That Will Need To Be Removed. One Is On The Drivers Side Of The Tank. One Uses A Pinch Clamp Like A Coolant Hose And There Should Be Another One Right Next To The Pinch Clamp. However Yours Is A Return Style System So There May Be Another One Lurking Around On Top Of The Tank.

After Removing These Lines There Is One Lat Thing To Do Before The Tank Can Be Removed: The Filler Neck! On The Pass Side Of The Vehicle On The Rear Top Of The Tank You Will See Where The Neck Enters The Tank. It Has Three Collars. A Metal One That Is Attached To The Filler Side(Cant Be Removed Its Just A Retainer)
A White One In The Middle( Must Be Rotated 1/4 Turn Counterclockwise So That The Tabs On The Bottom Black Collar Are Lined Up With The "Windows" In The White Collar)
After This Is Done You Can Lower The Tank Straps All The Way Out And Let The Tank Down.
****The Tank Must Come Out EXACTLY LEVEL Or The Collar On The Filler Neck Wont Release. THis May Also Take Some Prying But Be Careful Not To Break The Collar. YOU WILL HAVE TO REPLACE THE ENTIRE GAS TANK IF YOU DO!!!!!!*****

Once Everything Is Down, You Can Remove The Pump Collar. It Is Self Explanatory Being Removed. Just Tap The Collar Counter Clockwise ( I Believe) Until It Releases. You Can Reuse The O-Ring If It Is Not Ripped Or Torn In Any Areas. The FSVT O-Ring Does Not Fit. It Is Too Small. You Must Use THe Contour O-Ring.

Remove All Of Your Electrical Connectors And Pull The Pump Basket Out. It Also Requires...You Guessed It A 1/4 Turn Counterclockwise To Release It From The Tank.
*** Be Careful Not To Bend The Floating Mechanism When Removing Or Your Fuel Level Will Be Off!!***

Pop The Tabs On The Basket To Release The Upper Half Of The Basket From The Bottom Half. You Can Now See The Pump Body. You Will Be Using The Rubber End Caps On The Stock Pump Body Regardless Of Which Pump You Go With. If Using The FSVT Pump You Will Also Be Using The Contour Screen Filter. Remove The One From The FSVT Pump Body And (After A Thorough Cleaning Reinstall The Old Contour Screen Filter. Unless You Have A New One, Obviously Use The New One!) It Is Also Recommended That You Remove The Screen From The Bottom Of The Basket And Use It For A Frisbee.

Finish Draining Tank And Wipe Clean With A Clean Rag. (Please Dont Use A Water Hose To Clean Out You Tank Unless You Have Plenty Of Time TO Let It Dry COMPLETELY)
I Also Cleaned The Entire Outside Of The Tank So The Debris Would Not Enter Back In Upon Reinstall Of All Of Our Components.

Reinstall Is Reverse Of Removal.

How-to: Focus SVT Fuel Pump by CEGer Pale Horse

The quickest way to do this is to first remove the lower section of your backseats. You can lift the rubber grommet and gain access to the fuel pump from there. However, all I recommend you do here is release the fuel lines and wiring harness from that area. There should be two fuel lines that you can squeeze and they will release and a wire retained wiring harness that Is simple as well. Unless you have a returnless system(99-2000 Model Years), in which there will be only one fuel line.

Go ahead and disconnect your battery. Move to the underside of the car (it should be on jackstands and have plenty of clearance).

Directly to the left of the PASS side rear wheel is the fuel filter. You need to disconnect it on the rear side of the filter and remove the bolt clamp that holds it on.
***Be careful as you are letting the fuel pressure out here so the pressurized fuel in the tank side lines will be emptied. Have a bucket or something ready as well as some rags!***

Once this step is done you will need to lower the exhaust. You could completely remove it if you want to, but I just removed the hangers from the resonator back and propped it up so it wouldn't hang too low and flex too much at the Y-Pipe. We just need about five inches to get to one of the tank strap bolts. This part will probably need two people.

Once you've lowered the exhaust you should easily see the passenger side strap bolt. Leave this one alone for now. The DRIVER side strap bolt is located under the heat shield nearest the resonator. It�s easy to find; just trace the strap! You'll have to remove this heat shield to get to the bolt (one side may be riveted in and you may only be able to rotate it to one side).

Now you can remove the strap bolts. Have a drunk friend ready to help! Don�t remove them all the way as there are still some lines to be disconnected on top of the tank. Once you have the room you will see on top of the tank three more lines that will need to be removed. One is on the DRIVER side of the tank. One uses a pinch clamp like a coolant hose and there should be another one right next to the pinch clamp. However yours is a return style system, there may be another one lurking around on top of the tank.

After removing these lines, there is one last thing to do before the tank can be removed: the filler neck! On the PASS side of the vehicle on the rear top of the tank, you will see where the neck enters the tank. It has three collars: A metal one that is attached to the filler side (can�t be removed its just a retainer). A white one in the middle (must be rotated 1/4 turn counterclockwise so that the tabs on the bottom black collar are lined up with the "windows" in the white collar). After this is done, you can lower the tank straps all the way out and let the tank down.
****The tank must come out EXACTLY LEVEL or the collar on the filler neck won�t release. This may also take some prying but be careful not to break the collar. YOU WILL HAVE TO REPLACE THE ENTIRE GAS TANK IF YOU DO!!!!!!*****

Once everything is down, you can remove the pump collar. It is self explanatory being removed. Just tap the collar counter clockwise (I believe) until it releases. You can reuse the O-Ring if it is not ripped or torn in any areas. The FSVT O-Ring does not fit. It is too small. You must use the Contour O-Ring.

Remove all of your electrical connectors and pull the pump basket out. It also requires...you guessed it! A 1/4 turn counterclockwise to release it from the tank.
*** Be careful not to bend the floating mechanism when removing or your fuel level will be off!!***

Pop the tabs on the basket to release the upper half of the basket from the bottom half. You can now see the pump body. You will be using the rubber end caps on the stock pump body regardless of which pump you go with. If using the FSVT pump, you will also be using the Contour screen filter. Remove the one from the FSVT pump body and, after a thorough cleaning, reinstall the old Contour screen filter. Unless, of course, you have a new one (obviously use the new one!). It is also recommended that you remove the screen from the bottom of the basket and use it for a Frisbee.

Finish draining the tank and wipe clean with a clean rag (Please don�t use a water hose to clean out you tank unless you have plenty of time to let it dry out COMPLETELY!).
I also cleaned the entire outside of the tank so the debris would not enter back in upon reinstall of all of the components.

Reinstall is reverse of removal.

Thank you muntus. . Pointless having a How-to if nobody can read it.

No problem. However I do think the backspace key gave my right hand carpel tunnel syndrome.

Don't bother doing a how-to if NO ONE WANTS TO READ IT! W T F!!!!!!!!

I, for one, think that its commendable.

How many people do you see stepping up the the plate to invest the time to write out ANYTHING, except "where do i find the gaskets", and the like?

I could care less about anything else.. He wrote it with a good heart.. with the intention of helping his fellow enthusiasts... and not with the intention of being belittled because it wasn't done the way the READERS are wanting it. I don't see those readers writing this up, or even investing the energy to make it fit "THEIR" guidlines.. All I see is a bunch of whining.

So much for family oriented "enthusiasts"...

Exactly. I'm a troll and baked open a Contour headlight and took pics to create a how-to.....I'm not sure what that means though...

"..... He wrote it with a good heart.. with the intention of helping his fellow enthusiasts... ...."
Maybe .. but why put more effort into it to make it harder for someone to read it. Do you really think it is easier to put caps in front of every word? If it was not done with the intention of making it harder for others to read (those who really need the help), then what are the intentions?

For those of us who don't need the how-to, we will just not use it. For those who need it, I can imagine the cussing and what nots on their mouths when they have the pump halfway out and then have to refer to the how-to and then stressing out trying to read it. Of course, this is immaterial now (thanks to muntus).

"I don't see those readers writing this up, or even investing the energy to make it fit "THEIR" guidlines.. All I see is a bunch of whining."
I don't agree. Some have done some write-ups/how-tos.

It's not THAT hard to read. Seriously, if you have trouble understanding that, you should think about going BACK to High School if you're already out. Sure it's not ideal to type that way, but wow, enough with the whining. Pale Horse obviously put some time into writing up the how-to, so there's something to be said about that. If it takes you 2 hours to read the how-to, I feel sorry for you, and you probably shouldn't be tackling the job anyway.

Mark