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Okay, most of you know that my car is running stock internals and that I'm on my third iteration of turbo piping and now doing my own tuning.

I've been talking about how fast it was and how fun to drive and due to the fact that I may be selling this car soon, I decided to give it a few dyno runs.

The only negative about the dyno runs is that while the dyno operator was running the car, and I was video taping the runs, I realized that my cheap ball and spring boost controller is not working like it should. So I'm runnin a 3.83psi spring in my wastegate, which is pretty small, but then I'm cranking the boost up with the ball and spring controller. I was going to dyno at 12psi today but it turns out the the controller will spike up towards 12 for a second then it drops back down to somewhere between 0.6 and 0.7 bar pressure. I kept turning the spring up and even though it would seem to make a small improvement, the pressure kept settling back to right about the same, 0.6-0.7bar range. That's around 10 psi for you Folks who are challenged By SI units!
So I don't know whats's wrong with the ball and spring, but maybe its time I either make a better one or get off my but and buy a real dual stage boost controller! It would have been a much better day because I was running lower pressure than I wanted, AND I was running rich above 5600rpm. A real safe fuel level, but I'm loosing probably 15-20 HP in the top end because of it.

Oh yes, the results!! On a standard day like today 68F 30 inHG, 8-10% humidity ---- yes yes, back to the results.

356 wHP/334 wTQ

Then on run number 5 (in a Twenty Minute time span), I pulled off the ball and spring controller and did one on the stock wastegate pressure which is 3.83 (rated) but after an intercooler pressure drop of around 0.5psi it is about 3.33psi:

250wHP/220wTQ


So I'm pretty happy on my stock pistons and rods that can't take 300 crank HP!

The honest prediction with the Air Fuel leaned out a bit on top woiuld be around 370 wHP and with the 12psi I wanted to run it is estimated to be around 385-390 wHP. I wanted to run 14psi but I won't do that until I get a successful run at 12psi...... 14psi is expected to be comfortably over 400 wHP but hey, talk is cheap right?


Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760 356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas! See My Mods '05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red '06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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Oh yeah,

I almost forgot the most important part...the proof.
I'm sure 100 people will be calling me out so I guess I'd better throw this up.

And by the way, I've dyno'd this car in four different states and all of my dyno's have been fairly consistent with the conditions I've stated. This is a pretty good indication of the validity of the power estimates AND the durability of the engine that I built.




Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760 356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas! See My Mods '05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red '06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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Glad to see these results. Don't sell the car until you have done another dyno run with a better Boost controller and 12 psi.


Born again on 04/09/06 FOR SALE: Moonroof glass and motor MB sunshade PM ME!
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I KNEW IT!!!!! The stock rods handle power!!!!!


98 E0 SVT with some stuff
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Shizzaamm!!! Good work Tom!

Mark


2000 Black CSVT 3.0L Hybrid - 206fwhp & 195fwtq
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Originally posted by MapOfTaziFoShoĆ¢ā??Ā¢:
Glad to see these results. Don't sell the car until you have done another dyno run with a better Boost controller and 12 psi.




We'll see. The person who buys it may want to have some room to improve don't you think? I think it would be almost boring to buy a car I couldn't do anything with.

I didn't really want to spend a really long time on the dyno yesterday, only an hour on including setup time with five runs.
If I had more time, I'd have fixed that controller to see what was really happening. I could do it later, but you know, I'm more than confident about the power level and I pretty much feel that the stock block is 400 wHP capable with carefull inspection of internals during buildup. You know, I took lots of measurements and the tolerances on the pistons in the bores, the rod journals, all of it was really tight. Ford seems to have pretty damned good quality control when it comes to their engines (Normally) So with good measurements, good rod bearings, carefull tuning and quality controllers (i.e. not my ball and spring controller) you can have a very respectable car and not be concerned about blowing your motor.

This also eliminates all the grief associated with Block Honing for forged pistons and ring sealing, Saving you Dollars and down time.


Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760 356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas! See My Mods '05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red '06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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Originally posted by stilov:
I KNEW IT!!!!! The stock rods handle power!!!!!


Alot of stock parts can handle the power, I think Tom has the tuning nailed down and that helps his power level and stock parts longevity.


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GREAT numbers Tom! I am disapointed about the craptastic MBC, I'd like to see what 12psi would have put down

Have you given up on the boost controller that is wheel speed dependant? That would be about as good as it gets for our platform


2005 Ford F150 SuperCab FX4 1964 Chevrolet Impala SS 1998 CSVT: 354HP/328TQ @ 10 psi, now gone
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No I haven't but I'm having some issues with the design, not the least of which is laziness!



Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760 356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas! See My Mods '05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red '06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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Great numbers Tom! I think with about 10 psi im around 330 whp, 330 wtq.


Jim Hahn 1996 T-Red Contour SE Reborn 4/6/04 3.0L swap and Arizona Dyno Chip Turbo Kit 364 whp, 410 wtq @ 4,700 rpm
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