Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications Brakes ABS/TC removal

Does anyone know all the components that are different between the ABS and non ABS systems on my '95 LX? I'm going to disable the ABS and TC because they suck, and I've gotten my driving to the point where I can stop/go better than the electronic nannies will let me. The ABS, especially, is horrible. I don't know if it's a lousy design or what, but I suspect the super-stiff springs I have are messing up the system by allowing very brief lockup from variations in the pavement, sending the ABS into spasms. It was definetly better before. And yes, I have new pads, good rotors, SS lines, and I bleed/flush often.

So what's different? I was told some ABS systems will not act just like a non-ABS system when disabled. Is ours like this? What part causes this? To be legal in my class, I should really either just pull the fuse, or remove the systems entirely, so the car is just like one that was ordered without them: middle ground is technically illegal. However, I don't think anyone will care, so if there's a good reason to only pull part of the system, I'll do it.

I have not had any issues with the ABS and when using proper threshold braking techniques. This is with superior then stock or SVT brakes as well. (and superior suspension of course)

Now if I were on "R" compound tires on a sticky road course I may have some issues. However...

I don't have TC, well other then pedal modulation.

A few posts implied that the 2000s had an electronic system that was different than the rest. Also, this problem has only been big since I got the Ground Controls and Konis. The system goes nuts on even slighly irregular pavement. Stopping is truly awful for a "sporty" car.

Interesting - I haven't had any issues with the ABS kicking in on a road course. I can even lock up my brakes if I get on them hard enough. To answer your original question I don't know the difference. Maybe PM Rara?

If it's going nuts... something might just be broken. My ABS used to start freaking out when I was mildly braking. I found that one of my ABS sensors was cracked and malfunctioning.

Only problems I've had with ABS is when I was trying to go over the contenental divide with W rated tires...

A lot of tire spinnage I think caused it to freak out and stop working for while, which kinda sucked when going down the 6% grades. Was pretty hairy, but braking just to the limit of skidding was sufficient.

hey guys im thinking about removing my ABS fuses and have no ABS at all just regular breaks.
Has anyone tried that b4
what are advantages?
and what are disadvantages?
I got new rotors new pads bleed the whole system new master cylinder and all. but my car will still vibrate when im goin over 50mph and then trying to stop. so someone told me i could take ABS fuses off and eliminate my problem.
let me know what you guys think about that.

I wouldnt think ABS was your problem then...I am guessing that it could be wheels not balanced or you shifted a belt in the tires

I doubt that ABS is your problem. But, if you want to try it, look it up in the manual and pull it. On my 1995 it's the fourth from the left on the top row, in the box under the dash. It's a 7.5A fuse.

I'd check the bushings in your a-arms, for one thing. You might be getting a lot of toe-out under braking if they are shot. Can you describe the problem in more detail?

ok
my ABS light is on
my rotors are new
pads are new
wheels are balanced rotated
allignment been done recently

when i drive 0-30 mph and break everything is fine no vibration to the car
when i drive 30-60mph then trying to break on the highways my whole front end/dashboard vibrates.

couple of mechanics said to me that if i disconnect my ABS and drive without it, that might eliminate the problem. i found the fuse but i dono how to disconnect it its one of the square once and you cant just pull it i think you have to unscrew it or something.