Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums General Troubleshooting HUGE list of probs for 98 MYS I bought 24 hrs ago!

It's a 98 mystique GS 2.0 w/ 130k ticks. Just wanted something to last me a few years as I got through school.

Test drove it for about 5 minutes, didn't notice anything out of the ordinary. There were a few cosmetic / nuisance problems that I was prepared to fix, but there was no rust and it was in pretty good shape otherwise.

On my way home the CEL comes on. (Are you kidding me!?!? Hey, wait, I still see the person who sold it to me in the parking lot! Hey! Wait, I'm coming back!) Then a few minutes later, it stalls as I start to accelerate from a stop light.

Today, I noticed it wanted to stall twice more, both times as I had deaccelerated from 50 to about 10... when I pushed the gas again it just hung for a bit at 2k rpms and slowly creeped up... once it got to 2.5-3k rpms everything was normal.

CEL light goes off for no apparent reason, but the problems still persist.

It also straight out stalled twice more, both times where when I was accelerating fast and had to come to a somewhat abrupt stop and make a turn at 3-5mph. Just flat out died both those times.

So, after reading the forums for about 5 hours, I've compiled a list and I would like comments / additions / subtractions. I am for the most part clueless about fixing cars -- however, a friend works at a Mercury dealership. He's done mostly body/paint, but has been at it for 20+ years and has picked up a good amount of knowledge along the way regarding mechanics.

So I plan to take this info to him, and after a quick run through, we will take it to the mechanic at the Mercury dealership. My friend's role will be more so in diagnosis (doesn't have any free time really) - whatever work needs to be done will ultimately be completed by the dealership he paints at (at a discount we expect.)

So, please give me your thoughts on the following notes / problems I have compiled. Some of these are probably related, but I really don't know what has to do with what. Some may also not be related to my car at all -- I was neck deep in open threads and may have copied info that only applies to other models or engines:

Symptom: â�?��?missesâ�?� during light acceleration @ ~ 1-2k RPMs, no problem wide open throttle / stalls during deacceleration and/or at idle:

(if anyone would like to put these in the order they should be checked i would appreciate it!)

-needs 2xplatinum plugs, must be factory (motorcraft?)
-plug wires should be checked
-o2 sensors could be bad
-fuel pressure should be checked
-check MAF, may need cleaning
-fuel injectors may be clogged
-fuel pump &/or filter could be bad
-IAC may need cleaning.
-vaccum / intake could have leak
-check relays for ignigtion / fuel injection (volts match)
-timing belt / idler pulley should be checked ���?? if water���?�s the problem, will need steel idler pulley. revised FEAD belt, new splash shield kit
-VCT valve could be bad due to dirty oil, get filter w/ flow back gasket.
-could be Differential Pressure Feedback Exhaust Sensor
-check CATs

Symptom: no horn:

-fuses
-check horn & horn terminal connectors
-check voltage between horn wire and ground while pressing horn

Symptom: no dome light while driver's door is open. (dome light works normal with other 3 doors.)

-check rubber switches / spring by door (a&b pillar), use wd40, push in/out.
-central timing module
[side note: no chime for â�?��?lights onâ�?� when lights are on with door open / key out. car probably thinks door is closed at all times? seems logical.]

Battery light in dash goes on/off for seemingly no reason (on 10 or so minutes of operation, off 10 or so, repeat):

-no clue!

Symptom: Gear shift "orange marker" stuck on first gear, doesn't illuminate:

-needs new kit? wasn't there a recall on this?

Symptom: Pulls left slightly:

-probably just needs an alignment.

So there ya go, this is everything (that I know of) that's wrong with the car I bought 24 hours ago. Go me!

Luckily I put some money aside for a few fixes, I hope I am not in over my head though.

Thanks in advance for your advice / comments.

Welcome .

"On my way home the CEL comes on."
Go to Advance or Autozone and get it scanned (free service) and post the CEL codes (even though it is off now).

"Today, I noticed it wanted to stall twice more, both times as I had deaccelerated from 50 to about 10... when I pushed the gas again it just hung for a bit at 2k rpms and slowly creeped up... once it got to 2.5-3k rpms everything was normal.
........
It also straight out stalled twice more, both times where when I was accelerating fast and had to come to a somewhat abrupt stop and make a turn at 3-5mph. Just flat out died both those times."
Change fuel filter. Clean (change) IAC valve. Clean MAF sensor.

"Symptom: â�?��?missesâ�?� during light acceleration @ ~ 1-2k RPMs, no problem wide open throttle / stalls during deacceleration and/or at idle"

Spark plugs or wires, IAC valve. Also do a throttle body cleaning. Pour a bottle of fuel injector in the gas tank.
Might as well change the oil and filter and air filter (if dirty).

"Symptom: no dome light while driver's door is open. (dome light works normal with other 3 doors.)

-check rubber switches / spring by door (a&b pillar), use wd40, push in/out."
Yes.

"[side note: no chime for â�?��?lights onâ�?� when lights are on with door open / key out. car probably thinks door is closed at all times? seems logical.]"
Yes, do the same as above.

"Battery light in dash goes on/off for seemingly no reason (on 10 or so minutes of operation, off 10 or so, repeat)"
Check cables from battery terminals to alternator and battery to ground.

Check battery. Engine off. Headlights on for one minute. Voltage across battery terminals should be 12 to 12.5.

Alternator test. Engine running. Voltage across battery terminals should be 14 to 14.5.

"Gear shift "orange marker" stuck on first gear, doesn't illuminate

-needs new kit? wasn't there a recall on this?"
Yes, there is. If it is not covered, just wrap a thick copper wire on the gear stalk (just above the transparent plastic RND21)so that you can see what gear you are in.
Bulb is probably blown, (not covered by recall). Just change it, Autozone.com has some good pictures.

"Pulls left slightly

-probably just needs an alignment"
Check tire pressure first.

Good luck. Do these cheap and easy ones first.

Edit. Most how-tos are here.
http://www.contour.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=v6maint&Number=958650&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=31&fpart=1

IF your Mystique is covered,

"POWER TRAIN:TRANSMISSION:AUTOMATIC:LEVER AND LINKAGE:FLOOR SHIFT Recall Number: 98V233000
Dates Manufactured: JUL 1994 to JAN 1998
Number of Vehicles Affected: 175000
Date Owners Notified On: N/A

Vehicle: 1998 Mercury Mystique
Defect Description:
Vehicle Description: Passenger vehicles. The floor shift automatic transmission control can be damaged if subjected to certain interior cleaning products. The gear position indicator can deteriorate and not correctly indicate the actual gear position.

Consequence of Defect:
This condition can result in incorrect gear selection.

Corrective Action:
Dealers will replace the automatic transmission floor shift control."


Shift position lever thread.
http://www.contour.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=trouble&Number=1069992&Forum=trouble&Words=credit%20card&Match=Entire%20Phrase&Searchpage=0&Limit=25&Old=6months&Main=1068894&Search=true#Post1069992

The only thing that I see that I could add to Tony's post (wtg, tony) is this:


the "battery" light that you are seeing.. could it possibly be the coolant light? it is OFTEN mistaken for such. Yellow "barrel" shaped icon with an X in it?

The reason I ask is because a "battery" light (system charge indicator) would usually be an alternator charge problem, and would be much more rev dependant, and not time dependant (10 minutes on, 10 off, etc, like you said)

If it is the coolant light, its finicky from the factory, top to 1/2 inch above the MAX line when cold for a simple fix.

Thanks for the replies, guys.

As far as the battery light, I believe it is not the coolant light. This is red and by memory I think it had a plus and minus.

I may get the CEL #s at autozone on Monday, but Tues. it is being brought to the dealership so I was going to wait to have them just do it there. I don't think I will be charged much, if anything at all, for the initial inspection since it is a friend. My whole point of doing this though is to have some sort of guide to go by and be educated enough to know what they tell me.

Also, forgot to mention that I did this test: here for the central timer module. I am not sure if I did it correctly, but for the input, the test worked up until the safety belt (nothing happened when lifting outside door handle), and for the output, it worked until I pressed defroster switch to turn off the wipers. Again, I have no idea if I did the test right, or if the failure of that part of the test is supposed to tell me something????

Oh, and I also already put in a gas additive to clean the FI.

So my main problem is obviously the "missing / stalling", and I have revised the list to this order:

-needs 2xplatinum plugs, must be factory (motorcraft?)
-plug wires should be checked
-clean/change IAC valve
-change fuel filter
-clean MAF
-o2 sensors could be bad
-fuel pressure should be checked
-fuel injectors may be clogged
-fuel pump could be bad
-vaccum / intake could have leak
-check relays for ignigtion / fuel injection (volts match)
-timing belt / idler pulley should be checked ���?? if water���?�s the problem, will need steel idler pulley. revised FEAD belt, new splash shield kit
-VCT valve could be bad due to dirty oil, get filter w/ flow back gasket.
-could be Differential Pressure Feedback Exhaust Sensor
-check CATs

Should each of those things stay on this list or can any be disregarded? Or should they all be done one by one until it's fixed?

Oh, and I also messed with the rubber switch on the driver's side to try to get the dome light on. Didn't have WD40 on hand, but the manual tinkering didn't do anything.

Thanks again!

You know, I got to thinking. (Rare occasion.)

Since this problem with missing/stalling doesn't happen on a consistent basis and I am unable to manually repeat the problem on command... how would I know if the problem is fixed?

For instance, if on Tuesday I have the guy do all of this:

-needs 2xplatinum plugs, must be factory (motorcraft?)
-plug wires should be checked
-clean/change IAC valve
-change fuel filter
-clean MAF

How would I tell if that took care of the problem? Is this going to have to be something where I just keep taking it back over and over again until the problem is gone? *shudders*

Another update on the battery light: started it up today, drove it 15 minutes. No light. Went inside a store for 20 minutes, came out, started it up. Light on for the whole 15 minutes back. Hmm.

I'd be MOST concerned with the charging system, instead of the occasional shuddering.

you can at least DRIVE it with it shuddering.


Test the battery voltage across the terminals while running.


Should be 14.0-14.7 ish. test it with the light on, if you can catch it, as well.


You're most likely looking at a replacement alternator, but don't pay to have it done... do it yourself utilizing the how-to in duratec maintenance.

first,your list of problems could and probably is focusing on way to many things at one time.if your trying to check all of this out at home your best bet is to test out different things one by one and just keep track of the results from the individual tests.if it is something electrical you may be able to pin point it with a diagnostic test,probably cost ya $50 bucks but it beats paying hundreds,possibly thousands replacing things that don't need to be.second,the thing about the plugs.if your asking a guy from a ford or mercury dealership they will always tell you to use motorcraft.personally i use bosch,as long as they are gapped out correctly and the firing order is correct you'll be alright.if you want to spend $15 bucks,go to an autoparts store and pick up a hayne's or chilten's manual,possibly even your library.i'm no expert on cars,i have my own headaches with my 98 contour at times but i do all my own work(on the basic stuff,i leave the rest to mechanics),but at 115,000 miles my car runs like new so i'm doin something right.hope this helps

mike in cleveland

Thanks guys,

Mind you, I am relying on the outside help for the most part on the engine and electrical.

As I drove more today, the batter light continues to confuse. At one time it came on when I started cruise control. Then it went off and on for seemingly no reason.

Also, I forgot to mention, this thing has an after market radio/cd player in it. And I noticed that the radio starts to go "staticy" when you push the rear defrost button. Maybe the radio is the source of my battery light woes? (It does have direct connections to the batter posts.)

Also, it stalled out twice more. Once about 45 seconds after I started it and pulled up to a stop light.

Another time (and this is the first time it's given out in this situation) when I was at a constant speed of about 75mph... I let off the gas a little bit to change lanes and I felt it sputter and try to stall... I gently pushed and let off the gas a few times and I got it to stop from stalling... but yeah, that's the first time it has stalled at that speed.

That had me real scared.

As posted earlier, do the battery and alternator tests. From all these, it appears to be electrical related. I would check out the battery and/or alternator and the wiring first.