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#1473207 01/05/06 08:37 PM
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Originally posted by 1314:
I did. When I was trying to decide between a 225/45 or a 235/40, I wanted to be as close to stock in diameter as possible. That calculator showed that the stock diameter of a 215/50 16 is 24.46. The 225/45 is 24.97 and the 235/40 is 24.40. The 235's were closest and that's what I went with and haven't had a single problem.




That is exactly how it should be used/done...


Originally posted by Troll Pete:
Informative and that's it. No chance I would actually use that to determine what size tire to put on.




your a bone head troll


Scott 2000 Contour SVT #1464 Mustang Dyno: 171.6hp/145.3lb Dynojet Dyno: 171.1hp/148.9lb 1989 20th Anniversary Turbo T/A "Indy 500 Pace Car" #1376 of 1550 All Original, 46k with a few mods 2002 F150 SuperCrew
#1473208 01/05/06 08:49 PM
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Yup... using a calculator is the smart way, otherwise you have no idea just how tall the tire is.

btw, 225/40-18 is about .7" taller than a 235/40-17 (or .63" taller than stock). Those are wagon wheels... nearing the height of Cadilac tires! I find it hard to believe that that sized 18 would handle better than the 17" size I listed. Unless there was crappy tires on the 17" and decent ones on the 18", but how much weight are you gaining with a 1" taller rim and .7" taller tire? For 18's, I'd think 235/35-18 would give you better performance, but with that sidewall you might as well just pour rubber cement on the rim and forget the tire.


morbid 2000 Contour SVT (black)
#1473209 01/05/06 10:02 PM
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Originally posted by scottd60:
Originally posted by 1314:
I did. When I was trying to decide between a 225/45 or a 235/40, I wanted to be as close to stock in diameter as possible. That calculator showed that the stock diameter of a 215/50 16 is 24.46. The 225/45 is 24.97 and the 235/40 is 24.40. The 235's were closest and that's what I went with and haven't had a single problem.



That is exactly how it should be used/done...



Trust me, I've used those calculators in the past and like I said, they are informative, but not accurate.


Using that calculator, here are some examples.

Stock:
215/50-16 - 24.46

Most commonly used 18" tire:
225/40-18 - 25.08

Tire calculator:
225/35-18 - 24.20
No thank you. Not enough tire.

Tire calculator:
225/30-19 - 24.31
No chance on earth I'm putting that rubberband on 19" wheels. I had 225/35-19s and thought they weren't wide enough.

I've never understood the small minority of people who sacrifice wheel protection, appearance, ride comfort to keep their odometer as accurate as possible / "be as close to stock" diameter. Is 1.5mph at 60mph really that important?

In addition, I'm not trying to knock people who do use the calculator, but until you've tried as many wheel and tire combinations as I have you're giving poor advice by telling people to use the calculator to determine tire size.


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#1473210 01/05/06 10:09 PM
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this will make a good FAQ


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#1473211 01/05/06 11:40 PM
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I'm running 215/45/17s on my SVT Focus wheels. Sometimes I like the thin sidewall and sometimes not.

BTW I chose my size by using the tire calculator.


Justin 1999 Ford SVT Contour (T-Red) Cardomain site
#1473212 01/06/06 02:26 AM
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Originally posted by Mod-Deth:
Originally posted by 1314:
Originally posted by Shawnb:
Who is running 17x7.5s?




I currently am.




Me too. I've run 17x7.5 Kosei, 17x7.5 FSVT, and am currently running 17x7.5 ATS Comp Lites, all with 215/45/17's. Tho when I switch back from my winter set-up (nasty 205/60/15's on ASA's) I'm gonna run 225/45/17's (in Falken Ziex 512 flavor).

Oh...none of the 215/45/17's rubbed, probably because the extra .5" stretched out the tire and reduced the over-all height of the tire.




Me three! (pic earlier)


Goin' Round Traffic Circles @ 50Km/h!!! \m/ -- 1998 E0 SVT #2119 of 6535 \m/ -- 2003 Sentra SE-R Spec V
#1473213 01/06/06 02:28 AM
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Quote:

they are informative, but not accurate.




Actually, they're informative and accurate. They're not miscalculating the sizes that you input. It's up to the user to decide if they want to use the sizes given by the calculator.

Quote:

I had 19s




That's the problem right there.

Really, we shouldn't be comparing 17's to 18's to 19's because there's going to have to be a sacrifice somewhere, be it in the small size of the sidewall or the possibility of rubbing with a tire too big.

With 17's and having tried quite a few different sizes, I've found my currect size to suit me fine. If I go 18's, I'll probably shoot for 225/40. I'd like to go 235/40 again, but with an 18" tire I may rub.

#1473214 01/06/06 04:49 AM
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Originally posted by Troll Pete:
Originally posted by scottd60:
Originally posted by 1314:
I did. When I was trying to decide between a 225/45 or a 235/40, I wanted to be as close to stock in diameter as possible. That calculator showed that the stock diameter of a 215/50 16 is 24.46. The 225/45 is 24.97 and the 235/40 is 24.40. The 235's were closest and that's what I went with and haven't had a single problem.



That is exactly how it should be used/done...




Trust me, I've used those calculators in the past and like I said, they are informative, but not accurate.

Using that calculator, here are some examples.

Stock:
215/50-16 - 24.46

Most commonly used 18" tire:
225/40-18 - 25.08

Tire calculator:
225/35-18 - 24.20
No thank you. Not enough tire.

Tire calculator:
225/30-19 - 24.31
No chance on earth I'm putting that rubberband on 19" wheels. I had 225/35-19s and thought they weren't wide enough.

I've never understood the small minority of people who sacrifice wheel protection, appearance, ride comfort to keep their odometer as accurate as possible / "be as close to stock" diameter. Is 1.5mph at 60mph really that important?




That is just plain silly, you are saying the calculator is inaccurate...that is completely false. It tells you exactly what you ask for based on what you enter. These two examples you gave are pointless.

Quote:

Tire calculator:
225/35-18 - 24.20
No thank you. Not enough tire.
Tire calculator:
225/30-19 - 24.31



Why would anybody go down in tire diameter especialy when going up in wheel size neither of these are standard/common wheel/tire upgrades from a stock SVT 215/50-16 tire

Nobody driving a Contour in all reality should be running 19's unless it is for show...while I like the 18's on my car they are borderline on the big size and definitly not optimal for performance/handling on a Contour, I'd say it is a reasonable compromise for looks/handling. Generaly when autocrossing or putting a car on road course/track you would not go up 3 wheel sizes from stock for performance , +1 or +2 in wheel size with propper fitting tires would be about it in most cases. Also a 225mm tire is pushing it on a 7" rim, should really be 7.5-8" in most wheel/tire application charts. Impropper wheel width will also change handling and tire wear by creating a poor contact patch.

Your adviceis to add tire sidewall/increase the overall diameter of the tire to compensate for the need to use huge oversized wheels and not look like rubber bands That is only going for a look and not for optimum handling which is fine if thats what you want. But IMO that is really poor advice. If you don't like the sidewall/rubberband look then stick with a smaller wheel and use the propoer tire size for the car that best suits your need.

The goal should always be to try and maintain the the original tire diameter in most cases unless you have a 4x4, drag car or show car. You say 1.5 mph really isn't that important...yeah if you drive like an old lady. If you regularly speed then 1.5 mph can make the difference between a $275 ticket and a $500 ticket, 3 points and 5 points, suspended liecense or not...thust me I know. Been driving for 29 years and have had my share of tickets, suspensions, & driving class...not that I'm pround of it I just like to drive fast

Quote:

In addition, I'm not trying to knock people who do use the calculator, but until you've tried as many wheel and tire combinations as I have you're giving poor advice by telling people to use the calculator to determine tire size.




Not trying to knock you either troll but...
Not even close, you know I have a lot of cars currently in my stable (00 SVT, 89 TTA, 02 SuperCrew, 01 A4, 93 Civic, 94 TransSport, 87 S-10 V8 lowrider, 02 Sonata) and have had 8 others before that for a total of 16 cars over the last 29 years. Most have had different wheels and tire combinations several times over the years. The contour is on the 3rd set (16x6.6 E1's, 17x7 FSVT, 18x7 OZ's). I was running 50 series tires when most people didn't even know they existed back in 1979 on my 68 Firbird (255/50-R15 on 15x10" wheels). I autocrossed regularly for about 5 years at the time 13" light weight wheels were what most ran. I also have drag raced on and off ever since I was 16. I have gone through LOTS of tires and wheels...so not really much of a comparison if you ask me

You still the man, brother in BLUE



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#1473215 01/06/06 06:04 AM
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Scott,
1. You and 1314 are taking my "inaccurate" statement incorrectly. Yes, it's accurate for trying to match the overall diameter of the OEM size. NOT what's optimal for the car-wheel.

2. The reality is that what the calculator suggests is not what should be used. You think Ford or any other manufacturer puts the optimal wheel and tire size on every car? Seriously unlikely. Ford thought a 16" wheel was optimal for the handling and performance STOCK. We don't even know if that was why - it could be that they wanted to be cost efficient. Who knows. You've upgraded suspension right? Beefier, stiffer, etc. Upgraded speed right? Faster, more acceleration, etc. Now the vehicle is most likely better suited/can handle a bigger wheel right?

3. Your statement of "going down in tire diameter".
Happens all the time. Because people want to as you even stated "be as close to stock diameter as possible".

4. You replied with 19s are overkill. Did I say they weren't? I was refuting your point that using the calculator is the way to go. Doesn't matter WHY a 19" wheel is being put on. The point is that the calculator offers a size that would ruin the wheel. But now you're making excuses why the calculator doesn't apply because you think 19s only belong on show cars - give me a break.

5. You also neglected to retort the commonly overlooked point of load capacity. By upgrading from 16 to 17 or 18 the calculator recommended 215/45 and 225/35 maintains stock diameter, but does not take into consideration the air cushion size and load capacity. Those sizes decreases air and load. The 225/45 and 225/40 I and many other prefer provides a little extra air and load in addition to looking better and protecting the wheel better.

6. 18s not optimal for handling? The true test is for you finish your suspension and have it as tight as I had mine. Then to drive on the 18s for awhile and really toss it around. Then step down to a 17" wheel and tell me that the handling isn't worse. On the SVT I stepped up and down 16-17-17 (diff tire size)-18-15-16-19-18 (diff tire size)-18. Every time I went down, the handling was definitely not as good. On a tighter suspension, the difference is more noticable. (We're talking handling here, not speed.)

7. Why don't you hit up some really high performance handling vehicle forums like Porsche and suggest to them to step down to 17s or 16s because they are better handling sized wheels than 18s. Simple logic tells you that more sidewall = more flex. Less sidewall = less flex = better handling. I can point you to numerous articles stating that it is common for people to upgrade wheel size for better handling.

8. As I pointed out, based on the calculator, the optimal size is for 18s is 225/35-18. Have you seen that tire size on the 18" OZ Superleggera? I trust not. I've seen it and tried it. I felt it didn't provide enough width to protect the wheel. That's why I had them removed. The 225/40 gives just enough additional width and sidewall to offer more protection to the wheel. It's peace of mind to protect a $350 wheel.

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You can speed with your rubberbanded wheels that offer less wheel protection, less visually appealing, and less air/load. I'll take better wheel protection, more comfortable ride and look better doing it.

We can agree to disagree. And agree that you are in the minority in your opinion! Seriously though, I think we've both made our points, and can let this one go now. If you want, we can take it to the track and settle it there.

Oh, and I don't care what most ran in Autox in the 50s! Just because they did it "back in the day" doesn't mean it's right!

Nah, you da man - I don't have a car for every day of the week.

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Disclaimer: These are my opinions. I'm entitled to them jsut as Scott is entitled to his just as everyone is entitled to their own. What might look like to me might be to someone else. Opinions are like [censored], everyones got one.


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#1473216 01/06/06 06:27 AM
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Originally posted by scottd60:
You still the man, brother in BLUE






Unrelated, but what's that mean?

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