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Oops..GPT is rated for 160F, not C. TXL is rated for about 300F, not C. (actually I think it's closer to 285F).
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Originally posted by brianl703:
It might be worth the effort to run a new wire from the battery back to the regulator (the 3-terminal connector). Or at least disconnecting the old wire so it doesn't short out.
So let me get this straight before I perform this...
Perform everything that is in that diagram, and then in addition run a wire from the positive terminal on the battery to the end of that wire I cut(where the "X" is in the diagram)?
-Mike
98 Contour SVT
Toreador Red #49 of 6535 Built on 3/25/97
WR Headers, Borla Cat-Back, Torsen T2 LSD, K&N Short Ram, S-AFC and Focus Shift Tower
85 Camaro
1969 358ci, 97 TA interior, 91 Z28 GrdEfx and Aero Wing 255rwhp
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Originally posted by CSVT#49:
Originally posted by brianl703:
It might be worth the effort to run a new wire from the battery back to the regulator (the 3-terminal connector). Or at least disconnecting the old wire so it doesn't short out.
So let me get this straight before I perform this...
Perform everything that is in that diagram, and then in addition run a wire from the positive terminal on the battery to the end of that wire I cut(where the "X" is in the diagram)?
No!!
Just cut the red wire. Leave the wire with an X hanging there on the harness. run the red wire on the 3 pin connector to the main thick wire post of the ALT.
follow me? PM me if you have any questions.
Last edited by GoldnTour; 01/05/06 08:13 PM.
~Crystian
2000 Se Sport
2001 Lightning "Sorry...your mom cant come with us"
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I followed the diagram just fine. I asked what the cut wire's purpose was... he explained it and suggested running a new wire or disconnected the one that was cut. I was clarifying that I connect the end of the "X"'d out wire to a new wire to the battery positive terminal and if this is wrong what to do otherwise.
-Mike
98 Contour SVT
Toreador Red #49 of 6535 Built on 3/25/97
WR Headers, Borla Cat-Back, Torsen T2 LSD, K&N Short Ram, S-AFC and Focus Shift Tower
85 Camaro
1969 358ci, 97 TA interior, 91 Z28 GrdEfx and Aero Wing 255rwhp
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I put this in the other post last nite and today I did some testing.
Ok this is what I see on the Ford electrical diagram, fuse F-5 (15 amp) in the BJB on the bottom side front of the BJB is a connector is OG wire. (orange I assume) Now Look at the connector with bolt in the center laying horizontal between the factory air box and the strut tower it changes from orange to red in this connector known to Ford as C3001. The next stop is the alternator connector it providing reference voltage to the regulator. So there is the fuse connector, the connector under the BJB and the C3001 connector that need to be exercised if you don't want to do the mod.
Today I pulled F-5 out and rigged a connection into the slots hooked up a VOM in series on 12 amp current. I was able to re-create the flickering by having a slightly loose connection on my VOM. The flicking happens with the slightest loss of voltage to the alternator, regulator does not quickly/immediately reset again causing the flicking/fluctating. One millsecond interupt will cause 3-5 flickers before it would settle.
This happened with headlights high,fan on high and idling and 2000rpm however with a light load the regualtor is quicker to settle???? This circuit only draws 4-5 amps at the most. I interesting note is with the headlights on the current draw was 2-3 amps and revving the engine the current drops the 1/2 to 1 amp? I think once the alternator has 1500 and over rpms, the current draw probably is linear, it's that transition from idle to 1500 the output catches up.
It's a strange circuit that definitely doesn't not like any interruptions.
If I was to do the "Mod" I'd put a 15 amp in-line fuse on the mod, just in case the regulator shorts it would prevent melt down.
Paul
Paul
98 Mystique LS 2ea (07/97)(08/98)
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OK got you #49. I for some reason thought that he meant just running a whole new line and replacing the existing line.
But thats not neccessary if you make the new splice. I guess you can do either but not both.
Im sorry for my confusion.
~Crystian
2000 Se Sport
2001 Lightning "Sorry...your mom cant come with us"
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Originally posted by F111D F:
So there is the fuse connector, the connector under the BJB and the C3001 connector that need to be exercised if you don't want to do the mod.
I get everything up to this point, then I'm confused. What do you mean by exercised?
Your saying do something with the 15amp fuse in the fuse box under the dash, the 175amp fuse that is inline with the alternator and then C3001 connector for the main harness to the power distribution box in front of the strut tower?
I'm lost.
-Mike
98 Contour SVT
Toreador Red #49 of 6535 Built on 3/25/97
WR Headers, Borla Cat-Back, Torsen T2 LSD, K&N Short Ram, S-AFC and Focus Shift Tower
85 Camaro
1969 358ci, 97 TA interior, 91 Z28 GrdEfx and Aero Wing 255rwhp
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-Mike
98 Contour SVT
Toreador Red #49 of 6535 Built on 3/25/97
WR Headers, Borla Cat-Back, Torsen T2 LSD, K&N Short Ram, S-AFC and Focus Shift Tower
85 Camaro
1969 358ci, 97 TA interior, 91 Z28 GrdEfx and Aero Wing 255rwhp
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Originally posted by F111D F:
This circuit only draws 4-5 amps at the most. I interesting note is with the headlights on the current draw was 2-3 amps and revving the engine the current drops the 1/2 to 1 amp? I think once the alternator has 1500 and over rpms, the current draw probably is linear, it's that transition from idle to 1500 the output catches up.
Ok...now i'm a little worried...I don't mean to hijack, but since we're on the subject...
A while back i had some alternator issues of my own, and while looking over the schematics on the service CD I realized that fuse 5 distributes power to both the positive wire on the 3-wire alternator connector as well as the fog lamps (this can be seen on a few schematics on the service CD) ...it actually feeds power to both fog lamps...well as it turns out my stock fog lamps cracked up so i replaced them with aftermarket fogs which use H3 lamps ...55 watt each vs the stock which iirc is 37.5 watts each but since at the time i though fuse 5 only fed the fogs (i didnt know that it fed the regulator as well back then)...i just wired up the H3 lamps to the stock wiring since the fuse that came with the aftermarket fogs was 15 amps as well (like fuse 5 was originally).
But now i'm wondering...that stock rating of 15 amps is for two 35 watt fog lamps and the regulator...but i'm pulling current for two 55 watt fogs as well as the regulator...so i wonder if my having switched fogs and using them all the time (i treat them like DRLs) will affect the regulator in a bad way...hmm, i wonder if that's what killed my original alt?????
Well, i guess no more using my fogs until i have time to wire up a relay....... 
F111D F,
So you hooked up an ammeter in series to the slot 5 fuse location (with no fog lamps on...just the car on) and it actually showed 5 AMPS?
Last edited by amarv12; 01/07/06 10:12 AM.
1998 Mystique LS:
-2.5 Duratec ATX
-Vibrant White
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=Pics=
=Info=
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Still confused on what you said there F111D F...
a little help please?
-Mike
98 Contour SVT
Toreador Red #49 of 6535 Built on 3/25/97
WR Headers, Borla Cat-Back, Torsen T2 LSD, K&N Short Ram, S-AFC and Focus Shift Tower
85 Camaro
1969 358ci, 97 TA interior, 91 Z28 GrdEfx and Aero Wing 255rwhp
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