Was going through some old emails today and came upon this. Nice .doc on how to change a Duratec WP. Add this to pinned FAQ Pete. This one seems better than the one that is there.
You will find it here:
http://www.io.com/~mhall/dump/ just download the wpsmall.zip file and you will have all the info you need to swap a WP.
Also here is info on the w/pump with metal impeller sold at AutoZone:
Manufacturer: GMB
WATER PUMP-NEW
P/N 125-5670, SUPERSEDED-USE 125-1910
List $86.88
Your Price $64.29
Core $0.00
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Coolant flush how-to
Tools/services needed:
Garden hose
T-27 driver
Standard screwdriver
1/2" wide screwdriver or equal (chisel will work
too) - not too long or it wouldn't fit between the plug and the engine.
Jack
Jack stand
Pliers
Bucket or large shallow catch pan
Silicone spray
Proper amount of coolant
It is best and safest to do this while the engine
is cool.
1) Jack up right side of car and place a jack stand under the frame. Crawl under the front end and remove the panel under the car between the bumper and the radiator frame. It is held on with 8 T-27 fasteners. It is best to do this now because the ground will be wet after you flush the system.
2) Locate the heater hose between the battery and the water pump cover. It is in a plastic keeper tied together with a radiator hose. Smallest and lower of the two hoses in the clamp. Open the clamp with a flat bladed screwdriver and remove the hose from the keeper. You will see 2 clamps on the hose where they are joined together. Remove one of the clamps with pliers and separate the hoses. Coolant will run out so be ready to catch it.
3) Remove the pressure cap from the coolant recovery tank and set it aside. Here's the messy part, if you need to catch the old coolant and flush water, you will need a large pan. Or, you can stuff a hose in the recovery tank opening and divert the flow into a bucket. Do this in accordance to local laws (if any) for antifreeze disposal. Prestone makes a snout that fits most of the radiator/tank openings, but you must purchase a flush kit to get it. The antifreeze wouldn't harm the paint if you rinse it off right
away. Turn your heater controls inside the car to maximum heat; the engine does not need to be on.
4) Locating the half of the heater hose that leads to the firewall, press the garden hose up against it and shoot a stream of water up the line. Within a few seconds you will see the coolant rise in the recovery tank and then overflow. Let it flow for awhile until the water comes out clear; it may take a few minutes. When finished, press the heater hoses together, but leave unclamped. You may need to open them again.
5) This is another messy part. Crawl under the car and locate the radiator drain plug. It's on the passenger right) side of the tank, lowest point, looks like a button with a X head on it. The plug has a wide slot in it and is bbest removed by something with a wide, yet thin, head. Turn it counterclockwise to open. Be ready with a bucket to catch the spray when it comes out. The water will drain out of the recovery tank, too, while doing this. After the flow subsides, remove the plug completely by pressing the tip together and pulling. Dry it and shoot a little silicone lube on the threads; this makes replacing it much easier because it sometimes binds up in the tank. When replacing it, remember these parts are plastic; don't lay into them real hard or you will have a broken drain plug and two jobs on your hands. The drain plug is a little tight going in; when in doubt, back it out and make sure you are not cross threading it.
6) Fill the recovery tank with new coolant. Important: Be sure to keep track of how much undiluted coolant you are using.
As an example, let's say you want to have a 50/50 coolant/water dilution: If you put in half of your cooling system capacity at or before the Max line on the coolant expansion tank, then you just need to add water to get a bit above the Max line. (This is so you don't get the infamous low coolant light at startup.) Obtain the capacity figure for your system (The four cylinder models' cooling systems take roughly 7 quarts of diluted coolant, while the six cylinder models' take roughly 9 quarts of diluted coolant) and add the proper amount. (Add x% of your cooling system's capacity, adding water later to finish the job, for a (x/100-x) dilution). I like the Orange long life type because of the benefits outweigh the extra cost of the product. Fill the bottle to the max line or where ever you keep it to turn out the dash light. If you can't get all the new coolant in, separate the heater hoses again, lower them some and let some water out of the system. The water will flow slowly but you will see the level going down in the recovery tank. Keep an eye on the water coming out of the hose. If it starts to turn the color of the coolant, you will need to stop. This is diluted coolant coming out, so if you need a little bit more space in the recovery bottle let a little more out, but watch it.
7) Reconnect the heater hoses and replace the clamp. Return the hose back to its fastener and clamp it up. Replace the pressure cap on the recovery tank. Install the panel under the car (Do you recall how it went in?) Lower the car and check the coolant level again. Do a once over before starting the car to make all the stuff you took off is back where it belongs and all tools and rags are out of the engine compartment.
After starting the car, add coolant, if necessary, to turn the low coolant light off and go for a drive to get the engine hot. After the engine cools, check the coolant level again to see if the system drew any in. Sometimes there are air bubbles and running/cooling will force them out. I suggest if you are driving anywhere (like work) to take the extra antifreeze along so you can add some if needed. Monitor the recovery tank for a few days.
Have the coolant tested for SG to see your protection level. Most discount and auto parts stores sell the tester for about 5 bucks.
