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Originally posted by CRZYDRVR:
Originally posted by bensenvill:
STOP!!!
notice I used the word REDNECK in that sentance...
Damn, I was hoping against hope that it would work. Just sucks because Im damn good at welding, but I have to pay someone else to weld these on 
svt4stv, did you get my PM? My computer was having fits yesterday.
yes i did ken. did you get the UPS email? you should have. yours shipped out today. 
the redneck install sounded good but the newly given advice makes sense. although....that's how John put his in. BUT his is a 1st gen SHO and theyre SFCs are only about three feet long (if that). he said his have been just fine, but im not sure that would be something you can easily tell, until down the road, when its possibly too late. hopefully Stazi can chime in on this one 
Tourige, although you live in Canada, im assuming you have to have a not-so-nice side of town... that's where i took mine to get done. little "mexican" exhaust shop. they had no problem slapping those puppies on. and for just $60 too. is it possible for you to slip across the border to some shady US town? 
PS, John cranked out two more sets tonight after he got home from work. ill package them up tomorrow and try to hunt down a UPS guy to hand them to. the next two peeps should receive an email soon.... 
Originally posted by Tourgasm:
Sometimes you can mess up a word so bad that spell check doens't know what the hell you're talking about.
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Yea, who knows. Ive called around a lot and it seems like most of the shops have rules against it... was gonna be good cause a buddy was gonna do it for free..
99 TRed Contour SVT # 1853 out of 2760
230.2 WHP @ 6500
237.0 WTR @ 2250
Originally posted by MxRacer:
Originally posted by RawBurt:
I'll be keeping it to myself, until the time comes. It'll be hard to find.
much like your weiner.
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Jacking the car is NOT, I repeat NOT, an option.
In order to not tweak the body or suspension prior to welding in the bars you MUST use a drive on lift, like most exhaust shops use (i.e. not a lift that uses arms to lift the car via the frame. Or alternatively you can use an old-school "pit".
If you don't think I know what I am talking about, go jack up the car by the front subframe and you can WATCH the entire front end of the car flex like a damn noodle. Hence when you jack up a car one wheel or side at a time you tweak/twist the body and then welding bars into the frame will "lock" it into place.
I'm sure those of you that have jacked up the car then lowered it have noticed that it'll sit higher than before until you roll out a few feet. This is because the suspension sags and as you lower it back down, either onto the ground or on ramps, it will grip either, and then the whole suspension and uni-body frame will be totally un-natural to the usual position it is driving down the road.
So if you wanna be a dipsh!t and try and do this like a cheap-ass, don't complain when the alignment goes out and it drives weird. Find an exhaust shop with a drive-on lift and have them do it for you.
By using a drive-on lift the suspension will remain in the "driving" attitude and the frame will not be tweaked, so that when the rails are welded on it'll be in the correct position. Anyone that thinks you need to preload the connectors need a slap in the face.
This is a pic of a typical drive-on lift:
Last edited by Stazi; 01/27/06 03:52 PM.
2000 SVT Turbo 295hp/269ftlb@12psi
#1 for Bendix Brakes Kits!
Knuckles rebuilt w/new bearings $55
AUSSIE ENDLINKS $70
Gutted pre-cats $80/set
A lack of planning on your part does not constitute an emergency on mine!
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stazi, in john's crackhead mind, he has convinced himself that after doing the redneck lift you can then push down on the car to "settle" the car down, as if driving/rolling the car to do this. your 2cents por favor. anybody else notice the limited production #s on their sets? or just Alex?! 
Originally posted by Tourgasm:
Sometimes you can mess up a word so bad that spell check doens't know what the hell you're talking about.
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#4559 of 6535 born on Feb 17, 1998
Black 1998.5 CSVT
FOR SALE [cleaning house]: SVT rear swaybar. Reasonable offer and its yours!
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Originally posted by svt4stv:
stazi, in john's crackhead mind, he has convinced himself that after doing the redneck lift you can then push down on the car to "settle" the car down, as if driving/rolling the car to do this. your 2cents por favor.
anybody else notice the limited production #s on their sets? or just Alex?!
You cannot settle the suspension by bouncing it, not unless you bounce the wheel of the ground to allow it to move outwards into it's equilibrium position.
Im my mind this is NOT a viable way of installing these connectors.
Those SHO guys saying you need to "pre-load" the suspension, are on crack and give no real engineering or viable car dynamics background/explanation to justify their opinion.
2000 SVT Turbo 295hp/269ftlb@12psi
#1 for Bendix Brakes Kits!
Knuckles rebuilt w/new bearings $55
AUSSIE ENDLINKS $70
Gutted pre-cats $80/set
A lack of planning on your part does not constitute an emergency on mine!
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Originally posted by Stazi:
Those SHO guys saying you need to "pre-load" the suspension, are on crack and give no real engineering or viable car dynamics background/explanation to justify their opinion.
well its probably because they arent engineers. Its just the way car forums work, one 'head' guy decided that was the correct method and hence there is no need for a reason why it is the correct way, it just is.
can off-loading your suspension or my redneck method be used properly, of course they can. what are your chances of doing it properly? pretty low. 
yes... I am a cougar owner trolling on your board.
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I have no life
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I have no life
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I had these connectors for my SHO. Sold them because I couls not find anyone locally that had this style lift and weld them on for me. 
-'96 SE MTX 3L
-'98 SVT 1,173 of 6,535
-'05 Mazda 6s, loaded, g/f's ride
-Need a 96-00 manual on CD? PM or email me
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you guys that are having trouble finding a place to install them,might try a local mustang shop....they do this kind of stuff all the time,since this is one of the first mods alot of mustang guys do...
new,new ride!
'99 svt
black/mnb
'95 mustang gt sold!
'98 svt #800 sold!
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It's funny you mention that. I checked w/ a shop and they said "We do this w/ Mustangs all the time, should be similar to that!"
1999 Contour SVT #1966/2760, Silver Frost/Midnight Blue
Koni Kit, Mille Miglia MM-S rims, B&M shifter, Stazi mesh, SFCs, optimized Y-pipe & TB, SS break lines, K&N drop-in, Infinity Kappa speakers, MTX amp/sub
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