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#1451681 12/05/05 02:02 AM
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Pic 1
Pic 2

I never noticed how dirty it was there, but how does it look?

Edit: I don't think it is the compressor, although the noise gets worse when it is running.

Last edited by ZeroHour; 12/05/05 02:19 AM.

1998 SE Duratec V6 ATX Ebay intake with K&N Filter Trubendz Exhaust Custom Hood
#1451682 12/08/05 04:34 AM
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No one has commented on my pictures I provided. so I figured I'd bump up the thread and see if anyone has anything to say.

I'm thinking of maybe replacing the idle pully and tensioner pulley. How hard is this to do, and while i'm at it should I replace the belt?


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#1451683 12/08/05 05:12 AM
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Originally posted by Ray:
Simple test... disconnect the serpantine belt.. start the car. Noise gone?

there's your problem.. belt/pulley/tensioners.
still there? look elsewhere.
a 3/8 breaker bar will loosen the tensioner enough to slip the belt off of a pulley.





do what he said up above. i had to by pass my belt for the ac pump cause it was grinding. you may have the same problem like i did.


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#1451684 12/08/05 01:42 PM
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Originally posted by ZeroHour:
No one has commented on my pictures I provided. so I figured I'd bump up the thread and see if anyone has anything to say.

I'm thinking of maybe replacing the idle pully and tensioner pulley. How hard is this to do, and while i'm at it should I replace the belt?




I have a 97 2.5L and just recently had a similar problem, I checked the local parts houses for my idler pulley, but all were incorrect. I ultimately got it at Ford, for $20, and it took care of my trouble. Use a 3/8 breaker bar to release the belt tension from the pulley, and remove the center bolt... it will slide right off. I went from underneath with the r/frt wheel off, and the lower plastic splash guard removed. Look at the belt, to determine replacement... how long has it been running with that belt?


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#1451685 12/08/05 02:27 PM
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I'm guessing the clutch on the A/C compressor is shot. The serpentine belt is squeeling on the non moving compressor pully.


-'96 SE MTX 3L -'98 SVT 1,173 of 6,535 -'05 Mazda 6s, loaded, g/f's ride -Need a 96-00 manual on CD? PM or email me
#1451686 12/08/05 03:10 PM
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I talked with contourfreak last night and the belt could be the original. I've owned my tour for almost a year and a half, and I haven't changed the belt. Is there a way to tell if it is the origianl (i.e. ford logo or p#)

How can I tell if it is the compressor? Mine works fine! The heat blows hot and the AC blows cold! The defroster also works beautifully. What controls the compressor "clutch" is it a vaccum line or a electic control? I mentioned I've been having a rodent problem so maybe the $h!t head ate the wire/line.


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#1451687 12/08/05 03:17 PM
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the A/C may still work, but the pulley might be lagging a little causing some extra friction on the belt.

do as stated above and pull the belt off and start the car.
if the squeal goes away then it is a pulley issue or an issue with the a/c comp, alternator, or power steering pump themselves.


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#1451688 12/08/05 08:04 PM
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well I'll have to try to take the belt off tomorrow. I would imagine I should run the car without a belt for long right? Also does anyone have experience to tell me what a bad pulley might spin like? I.e. can't spin it by hand, should spin without effort, etc.

Thanks


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#1451689 12/08/05 08:10 PM
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you only need to run the car long enough to see if the squeal goes away.

as for what a bad pulley sounds like....
llike you said, it will be very hard to turn, wont turn at all, or will make a nasy grinding/bad bearing sound when spun.


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