Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications Forced Induction I'm LIVID ... the saga begins!!!

I just got off the phone with Bill Jenkins ... have a new clockspring and SVT throttle body on order. I already have a new SVT throttle bracket and throttle cable.

Does anyone on here have an SVT goose neck (intake accordian tube) that they could sell me cheap?

Yup! Call me.

Too bad, I could have sold you the SVT TB, accordion, airbox, MAF housing (minus the electronics), all slightly used.

Tom, doesn't seem too good with the rythm method either.

OK, this past weekend, besides finding out about the TPS, I decided to do a few more things right that this bonehead did wrong! First off, I can't help but kick myself for not taking a "before" picture. That being said, the battery in the trunk was completely unsecured and when I would take a turn, the battery would fall over. That needed to be rectified and ASAP. So, while I was at it, why not do it right and move the battery to the passenger's side of the trunk

basically, just jacked up the passengers side ... I love the look of a car with one side jacked up ... reminds me of schekane (spelling?) bashing road course racing



Apparently this guy just couldn't figure out what the hell he wanted to do ... count the holes ... I count 3 and only 1 has the positive line in it with no grommet



Time to drill a hole in the right place. I chose this location because I have done so 3 times in the past. My previous battery relocation AND 2 ZEX kit installs.



You start by finding the hole in the rear frame rail and then using a very long punch, knock a mark and then go back into the trunk and drill it out.



Looking up again after drilling it out



Then simply mount the battery and start to run the lines. Bear in mind that I still need to trim the zip tie excess. I also plan on running an additional grounding strap under the car from the bolt to the rear sub-frame



Under and around the rear suspension we go.



follow the rear parking brake cable and the divert over to the drip rail and hug the frame rail.



Time to cut across the engine bay to get to the other side.



Hard to see, but roughly half-way there ... notice the shifter cable sheathing on the left.



Find the stearing rack/shaft and start to fish it up



So it doesn't flop around down there and get tangled, reach really far down there and tie it off to a brake hardline or two just next to the brake booster.



Finally, run it behind the booster and to your junction ... nothing to it!

Hey, I like how you did it clean, but you probably should know that the hole you chose is for the alignment pins when installing the subframe. I bet they only use them for initial alignment during assembly of the car...but hey I thought I'd point that at.

Also, I think running the line down the drivers side into the trunk minimizes the amount of underbody exposure and of course running it near something protected is good.
I ended up running twin half size Gell cells in the trunk of my SVT and hiding them behind the trunk liner behind each wheel well. THe main line came in the trunk on the left then both batteries were separately grounded and wired in parallel.
I never got around to it but a good 100amp circuit breaker right in the trunk and one at the front by the strut tower is recommended in case of any shorts.