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I decided to repair everything today and since I replaced one side's sway bar endlink, I decided why not the other. Got that done in about 5 minutes. I then went to the driver's side to strip the frayed wires and rewrap them in quality electrical tape. Again, this only took about 5 minutes and I was ready to attack the LCA bolts. Based on advice of Dane150 (NECO member), I decided to remove the center bolts from the front & rear roll restrictors and drop only the front two bolts of the subframe and simply drop the front about 5 inches. So, I remove the driver's side front subframe bolt about 5 turns and decided to go to the passenger's side to allow the front to drop evenly. Here is what I found:



The condition of the car never ceases to amaze me! The bolt was completely missing

Needless to say, I think the clunking was more than just a sway bar end link being loose ... DAMN GOOD THING I bought that other front subframe. The bolts that hold down the power steering rack are the same thread pitch and length ... THANK GOD!

Here is a picture of the finished product before rebolting the front back up. The entire process took maybe 35 minutes ... went a hell of a lot quicker than I thought it would.



Test drove the car after getting everything back together and WOW, this thing can really handle now! However, the CEL came on and the driver's door rattles when I close it, so back out I go ...

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Still plodding along on that car, I admire your determination especially how far you've come.

Hopefully you'll keep it and drive it when you are done, at least for a while.


Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760 356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas! See My Mods '05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red '06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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What kind of rattle are you getting in the door? Is it a metallic or more of a plastic type of rattle.

I had the foam that rests behind the windowpane (when its down) come loose from the door.


Alex '99 SVT Contour -=|WANTED: Vortech, working or not |=-
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Door rattle was a 5" speaker, held in by one screw in the 6x9 slot ... this guy deserves to has his ass kicked hard!

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maybe the guy was a moron, but I hoped you learned to have a car looked at or look at it yourself before buying it.


98 E0 SVT with some stuff
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I have been reading up on this problem and it seems that it's the "clock spring" or whatever it's called. Basically, the light flashes 3 times, pauses and then flashes 2 times. According to the FAQ on the main site:

32=Driver Side Air Bag Circuit High Resistance or Open

Anyone have any ideas or links to threads that would help? I have searched as I said before, but nobody in the two threads I read really nailed it down. Your help is greatly appreciated!

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Originally posted by stilov:
maybe the guy was a moron, but I hoped you learned to have a car looked at or look at it yourself before buying it.


No [censored]!

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Originally posted by fastcougar:
I have been reading up on this problem and it seems that it's the "clock spring" or whatever it's called. Basically, the light flashes 3 times, pauses and then flashes 2 times. According to the FAQ on the main site:

32=Driver Side Air Bag Circuit High Resistance or Open

Anyone have any ideas or links to threads that would help? I have searched as I said before, but nobody in the two threads I read really nailed it down. Your help is greatly appreciated!




How about this thread?
http://www.contour.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=trouble&Number=1242694&page=&view=&sb=5&o=&fpart=all&vc=1


"Always do the cheap and easy ones first." 1996 V6 ATX 96K miles
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Originally posted by Tony2005:
Originally posted by fastcougar:
I have been reading up on this problem and it seems that it's the "clock spring" or whatever it's called. Basically, the light flashes 3 times, pauses and then flashes 2 times. According to the FAQ on the main site:

32=Driver Side Air Bag Circuit High Resistance or Open

Anyone have any ideas or links to threads that would help? I have searched as I said before, but nobody in the two threads I read really nailed it down. Your help is greatly appreciated!




How about this thread?
http://www.contour.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=trouble&Number=1242694&page=&view=&sb=5&o=&fpart=all&vc=1


Thank you!

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CEL was for excessive throttle angle. I replaced the TPS sensor on the TB because the plug end for the one on the car was shattered and had RTV on it to keep it together

So, looks like I didn't put the new sensor on correctly or something because with the car off, it read 5.5% and doesn't respond to throttle input at all. It just stays right at 5.5% when the car is turned on and idles and if I blip the throttle to say 25% input, it doesn't move. I took the sensor off a stock Cougar throttle body that has been collecting dust. Can this be salvaged (reinstalled properly), or does it sound like a faulty sensor?

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