|
|
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 3,732
Hard-core CEG'er
|
Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 3,732 |
must be nice using stainless steel for your turbo. mines gonna be a ghetto-fab ugly mild steel setup  function before fashion is my motto.
Russell
Oval Port 3L Nearly Done
MTX75 w/ Homebrew Zetec FD and Torsen Complete
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,190
Hard-core CEG\'er
|
|
Hard-core CEG\'er
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,190 |
have any pictures of the fmic with the bumper off ?
PLEASE HELP ME GET MY CAR TOGETHER! ITS IN DAYTON OHIO! I need the motor together and in the car so i can DRIVE it! Pleeeeeese!
diamond pistons for 3.0/forsale
#702 of 2150
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 5,810
Hard-core CEG'er
|
|
Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 5,810 |
Originally posted by fastcougar:
Just a little followup on the measurements involved here.
Tom stated:Originally posted by warmonger:
I used a soft phillips head bolt that I threaded into the oil fitting I installed on top of the turbo. Then I shaped the top to fit the A/N fitting shape, then drilled it using a 1/16" bit. The 1/16" hole seems more than sufficient for that engine oiling system to provide plenty of oil.
The Daymon followed up with:Originally posted by Swazo:
For the oil feed, I used a Function7 billet aluminum oil feed flange with a built in restrictor ...
The Function 7 piece has an orifice of 1.6mm. Just thought everyone would like to know that 1/16" = .0625" = 1.5875 mm. BTW, I did these calculations before ordering the function 7 piece, but forgot to post them with regards to Tom's advice ... thanks guys!
Thanks! I thought everyone missed it because I wasn't sure how clear I explained my method on building a cheap restrictor fitting for the. Turbo. About $1.50 total.
Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760
356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas!
See My Mods
'05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red
'06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 5,810
Hard-core CEG'er
|
|
Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 5,810 |
Originally posted by fastcougar:
I haven't been happy with my 304SS welding and then I realized something ... I have been using 308SS wire with plain 72% Ar, 25% CO2. I remember reading that a high volume of Helium should be used in the gas mix when using MIG on SS. So, I did some quick research and sure enough, MIGing on 304SS should use what's called a Tri-mix of 90% He, 7.5% Ar & 2.5% CO2.
So, today at lunch, I went by the local gas supplier and picked up a small bottle and let me tell you, this [censored] is expensive! $65 deposit on the bottle, $100 fill for a "small bottle" roughly 3' hight cylinder ... I will check the capacity tonight. That's a lot of money just to lay down a nice bead, but it must be done. Ar/CO2 with 308SS filler wire will cause a contaminated weld, which will weaken the weld and cause it to be more prone to cracking/failing. It's a compromise I'm not willing to live with ... I'm a perfectionist.
Now, I know you must be thinking "but you are only tacking this" ... well, if my fabricator comes back to me with an estimate that is too high for my liking, I'm prepaired to build these myself with my MIG, but I must first perfect my skills. This doesn't mean laying a "good bead", for me, this means laying down a "great bead" that is structurally sound and not contaminated.
I can't wait to get started on more practice this weekend! I just need to pick up some more Acetone for prep work ... I ran out 
Try 98/2 a mixture of 98% Argon and 2% Oxygen. Much cheaper, reduces the carbon buildup and allows as good weld bead.
I was going to get tri mix but my welder supplier explained that it worked well and for the money worked very well. I also found info online about it.
Save yourself the cash... and remember that you can also use it to weld normal mild steel, so you can jump back and forth with differnt types of wire with it; making it even more convenient.
 Yes, you are welcome.
Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760
356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas!
See My Mods
'05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red
'06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 1,336
Hard-core CEG\'er
|
|
OP
Hard-core CEG\'er
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 1,336 |
Originally posted by Russell-3L:
must be nice using stainless steel for your turbo. mines gonna be a ghetto-fab ugly mild steel setup
function before fashion is my motto.
Do some more research on manifold/turbo system fabrication ... your comment couldn't be further from the truth.
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 1,336
Hard-core CEG\'er
|
|
OP
Hard-core CEG\'er
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 1,336 |
Thanks for the advice Tom ... unfortunately, I have already purchased the bottle w/fill, so I will be using it till it's all gone.
I have come to realized one thing. Even with all the right tools (I very few fabrication tools), this R&D takes time and money and I can now see why many fab shops charge what they do! But $6,000 for a "large" T3/T4 kit ... outrageous in my book and thus why I took the gamble on this SVT. I should have just saved the money and built up the Cougar and take it for a custom one-off setup or done what I am doing now and learn to do it myself and saved even more. Oh well, you live and learn.
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 1,859
Hard-core CEG\'er
|
|
Hard-core CEG\'er
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 1,859 |
Originally posted by fastcougar:
I have come to realized one thing. Even with all the right tools (I very few fabrication tools), this R&D takes time and money and I can now see why many fab shops charge what they do! But $6,000 for a "large" T3/T4 kit ... outrageous in my book and thus why I took the gamble on this SVT. I should have just saved the money and built up the Cougar and take it for a custom one-off setup or done what I am doing now and learn to do it myself and saved even more. Oh well, you live and learn.
Many of us could have probaly told you that a while ago, but we figured you probaly wouldn't listen.  You have to figure that part of that six grand for SS turbo is the tig welder machine and tungstens alone. A cheap good machine usualy starts around $2k, generaly anyone using them for any length of time have a larger sometimes water cooled unit ranging from $4000 on up. Not to mention it takes longer to do, and you have to have/pay some one that has those skills. Like you said adds up quick. No one migs stainless that does serious work. Good luck with finishing it, takes some patients for sure.
'99 Silver svt
For sale
19" Axis Neo wheels
3.0 parts, pre-98 trunk,
Check classifieds
bp.powell@comcast.net
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 1,336
Hard-core CEG\'er
|
|
OP
Hard-core CEG\'er
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 1,336 |
While that is true that tungsten tips and a TIG machine are expensive, that is an overhead item required to FAB anything exhaust component related and should jack the price up. Most people that Fab for a living with weld on the side for $10 a seam ... think about that and how many seam welds there are in the ADC kit ... probably $200-$300 worth of welding 
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 937
Veteran CEG\'er
|
|
Veteran CEG\'er
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 937 |
Originally posted by fastcougar:
While that is true that tungsten tips and a TIG machine are expensive, that is an overhead item required to FAB anything exhaust component related and should jack the price up. Most people that Fab for a living with weld on the side for $10 a seam ... think about that and how many seam welds there are in the ADC kit ... probably $200-$300 worth of welding
Well... having bought one, I'm not complaining about the $6K. Well thought out, bolt on performance is worth a premium when time is truly the hardest thing to find. 20 years ago I absolutely would not have felt that way!
I just wish they would ship the darn thing to me. It�s still in Arizona.
The kind of design and fabrication you are doing is real appealing to me and I am sure gives you great satisfaction. I�ll have to wait my chance to play until after I retire and have time for a GT40 kit car or maybe a Noble.
99 Tropic Green SVT, Tan Leather, 20K miles, "Nice Twin" (factory stock).
99 Tropic Green SVT, Tan Leather, 28K miles, "Evil Twin" (Turbo AER 3L and more in progress)
96 Red LX, Opal Grey Leather 2.5L, ATX, 22K miles
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 5,810
Hard-core CEG'er
|
|
Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 5,810 |
Originally posted by fastcougar:
Thanks for the advice Tom ... unfortunately, I have already purchased the bottle w/fill, so I will be using it till it's all gone.
I have come to realized one thing. Even with all the right tools (I very few fabrication tools), this R&D takes time and money and I can now see why many fab shops charge what they do! But $6,000 for a "large" T3/T4 kit ... outrageous in my book and thus why I took the gamble on this SVT. I should have just saved the money and built up the Cougar and take it for a custom one-off setup or done what I am doing now and learn to do it myself and saved even more. Oh well, you live and learn.
Take this statement and look back over the years at the things I built, three separate systems in fact. All of them were working on ways to make the process you are going through more efficient and therefore more economical as well as make any subsequent parts to be equal or better in form and function.
I culiminated all that into the last kit which worked so well. I wasn't cheap per se, but I more or less made wide decisions on what needed to be upgraded and why.
Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760
356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas!
See My Mods
'05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red
'06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
|
|
|
|
|
