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#1448513 01/30/06 03:04 PM
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Yeah, very weird ... I just checked my upload location of the images originally and whalla ... gone. VERY weird. I will reupload tonight when I post pictures of the longblock buildup. I didn't finish her, but that's because I'm a stickler for details and well ... I cleaned up the timing cover, primed and painted the engine mount, etc. She is fully timed and the timing cover is on and valve covers are in place (only held in place with one bolt for now). I forgot to order the spark plug tube seals and a new oil pan gasket. So, I will be ordering these today and picking them up tomorrow and continue the buildup later this week.

On a good side note, the "race" transmissions was sitting in my driveway on Friday night when I got home I immediately unpacked it and packed up the stock unit that is going to TH with the Torsen for a full looking over and replacing of worn parts & fitting the Torsen. I didn't get any pictures of the "race" tranny, but I will tonight when I finish packing up the Contour's tranny. It's shipping to Terry tomorrow.

Last edited by fastcougar; 01/30/06 03:23 PM.
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Ran into a snag that I haven't see before on all the 3L buildups I seen. There is an "ear" on the transmission side of the block that is getting in the way of the oil cooler from the SVT 2.5L:

As you can see, routing the "hard tubing" under the ear causes crimping coming off the sandwitch plate outlet tubes.


However, down tube from the water pump is fine.


Ear location overview.


Reference of the same location on the SVT block ... notice the complete lack of the ear.


So, should I bust out the hack-saw or is there an alternative?

On to the HMS goodness ... Off topic I know, but I just can't wait till the Cougar Turbo 3L build to post these pictures. She's modded to the hilt ... list of mods to follow, but she should be able to laugh at 400 WHP






Last edited by fastcougar; 01/31/06 06:59 AM.
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Nevermind on the Oil Cooler line issue ... I just found this thread: http://www.contour.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=3L&Number=1014964&page=&view=&sb=5&o=&fpart=1&vc=1

I'm tired of dumping money on this project ... out comes the hacksaw & angle grinder

Last edited by fastcougar; 01/31/06 06:59 AM.
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Yeah man, SEARCH! This stuff has been covered!


Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760 356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas! See My Mods '05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red '06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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Originally posted by warmonger:
Yeah man, SEARCH! This stuff has been covered!



Now when you do a search, you can actually SEE the problem thanks to me

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Block will be going under the knife this weekend to:

1) Drill & Tap the knock sensor hole since the 3L knock sensor threading is much smaller than the 2.5L knock sensor.

2) Remove "ear" in the way of the oil cooler lines

3) Remove the "ears" (note plural use) in the way of the alternator brackets.

Before that can take place, I must first finish installing the valve covers (I was waiting on the spark plug tube seals from the dealership) & oil pan (I must first clean her up). I will not be torquing down the oil pan and will be reusing the original gasket during the steps 1-3 above. I'm not going to use the new pan gasket until I have tapped one of the oil return jackets in the girdle and have removed all the shavings and fitted a fitting for the return line to attach to.

I'm planning on only using SS braded EARLS lines & EARLS connectors ... time to go to Summit Racing

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What mods does the HMS trans have to make it a "race" trans? Didn't go with the oiling system?

BTW, it looks dead sexy!


2005 Ford F150 SuperCab FX4 1964 Chevrolet Impala SS 1998 CSVT: 354HP/328TQ @ 10 psi, now gone
#1448520 02/02/06 01:05 AM
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Oh yeah, I almost forgot. I have an electrician coming to the house tomorrow (Thursday 2/2/2006) to give me an estimate on running a dedicated circuit (40 AMP) out of the power box and a double outlet so I can concurrently run the welder and one other shop device (vac or compressor). Luckily, my circuit panel is in the garage and on the same wall that I will be welding and where I run the compressor, so it shouldn't cost too much. As it stands now, I don't have a circuit in the garage rated higher than 15 amps and if I run my compressor and vaccum on the same circuit at the same time, I trip the breaker

Can't weld with that ... the welder alone draws 30 amps.

It's killing me ... everytime I go out in the garage to piddle around the engine for a hour here/there, I look a the welder and get trigger happy. I'm so amped (no pun intended) to get started on this.

Last edited by fastcougar; 02/02/06 01:05 AM.
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Originally posted by Swazo:
What mods does the HMS trans have to make it a "race" trans? Didn't go with the oiling system?

BTW, it looks dead sexy!




1) Gears where removed from their respective shafts and "keyed" to ensure that they wouldn't "spin" ... imagine a gear spinning on the shaft ... much like spinning a bearing. This is assuming you don't first strip off the teeth.

2) Gears where moly coated (Molybdenum): less friction = less stress = less wear & less likely to strip the teeth.

3) Then the regular goodies that Terry does.

Basically, everything possible short of a gear set fitting from Quaife.

#1448522 02/02/06 01:30 AM
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Is that tranny in the picture a welded case that had a previous breakage in it?


Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760 356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas! See My Mods '05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red '06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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