Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications Forced Induction I'm LIVID ... the saga begins!!!

1) I never said that I was going to have the engine balanced, I simply listed all the items on my invoice from getting the "race block" done. The only reason why I would rebalance is if I fitted non-stock items there where heavier/lighter, but a simple "reringing" doesn't constitute a rebalance in my eyes ... you are correct, it would be a waste of money, but I never said that is what I was planny

2) I don't view this thread as hijacked, so simmer down now

3) I type fast and this site doesn't have a spell checker, so I reserve the right to mistype words.

I need to upload the pictures, but last night I got the block down to the heads/valve covers/timing cover/oil pan ... everything else is off the engine. Hopefully tonight I can get through the rest of the motor and have a true shortblock before bedtime (normally 1-2AM for me)

Oh yeah, forgot to add ... the garage is clean because I just bought the house (new construction) on July 15th. First thing I did was seal the garage floor

I recommend using all 4 mounting points.


i.e.

Been there, done that ...

all 4 mounting points are "high" on the block so to speak.

The 3 that I have used give a better spread of the weight across the bracket face and cause less tendency for the block to want to "bend" toward the bracket bottom, thus stressing the bracket face at the top attaching points. I found this mounting method to be the most balanced.

I have a tuck under garage so it never goes below 45 degrees even though it's 0 outside. I recently picked up a craftsman work light and the thing has two halogen lamps on it and takes 1000 watts. I have a propane heater but lately I just turn the light on 5 mins before I go out and it keeps the garage warm enough if you keep yourself busy.

I should have taken a picture of my projects a few weeks ago. I had 3 SVT Contours at my place, 3 2002 3L engines, 1 good SVT block and 3 bad blocks. I've since narrowed it down to one SVT (well two now but the owner is coming to get it later today), one bad block and a set of SVT heads.

As far as mounting the block on the stand I've also gone with those 3 mouting points.

I get four on i just use a long bolt and nut for te lower holes feels better since it is cast aluminum.

Now, this looks 10 times worse than I'm sure it is (trying to keep a positive outlook here, someone please back me up here). The pallet the engine was strapped to was cracked and leaning slightly to one side. These are the only bolts bent, leading to conclude that this happened in transit/loading on the truck. There is no other external damage to the block. So, here is the question of the day: How do I get off the nuts without causing more damage? I'm weary of using a sledge because I don't want to damange the pan or bolt holes that it's threaded into. I'm thinking of cutting it flush with the nut and then getting on the nut with a neumatic impact wrench ... your thoughts?



I had planned on doing the teardown tonight, but couldn't due to family coming first. So, instead I spent 5 minutes going over the block exterior with a fine-toothed comb and taking pics of things that caught my attention. Obviously the above is the one thing that has me bothered the most. However, I found the stems of the exhaust valves to be rather interesting as well. Anyone care to enlighten me on if this is normal or not? I have torn down many engines in the past, but never paid attention to the valves in the heads because I simply had them sent out for work and never gave it a second thought.

white/very light pink hue on exhaust valve stems. This coloration was only on one cylinder.



red/pinkish hue on exhaust valve stems ... all the other cylinders where this color or a slight variation thereof.



This one caught my eye due to the waxy nature of the carbon buildup in the exhaust ports, leading me to believe that the stem seals or cylinder rings are shot. I'm leaning towards the rings because the stems are clean & red (is the red normal????)



God I hope the block is OK and I can get away with just a reringing so I can put some money into the heads.

After my last post, my suspense was getting the worst of me, so I decided to go ahead and pull the valve covers & spark plugs to get a better sense of the engine condition. All the plugs looks great except the one from the "white" exhaust valve. It didn't look bad, just slightly white in color. All the others where a very light tan. I suspect that this cylinder was running a little hotter for some reason ... full teardown might shed some more light. However, I think that I have answered my own question about the red/dark pink valve stems ... based on their corresponding spark plugs, that would appear to be completely normal.

Oh yeah, a slight tapping with a ballpeen hammer straightened out those oil pan studs. I figured that whatever force bent them was far more distructive than a few slight raps with a ballpeen. Whatever bent them also chewed up the threads pretty good, so out with the dremel (no sawzall yet) I go on Sunday. I will keep eveyone updated ... as if you care about my ramblings. I swear, sometimes I type out these posts only to help myself think things through