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Trev- I'm fairly certain you don't have a balance light. The impellars need to be balanced within 1 gram IIRC.


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Here are the compressor site pictures:

Overview of compressor side


Closeup of the compressor wheel & retaining nut


Side view of the compressor wheel & retaining nut

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I wonder if that isn't a real Garrett turbo? Usually Garrett is cast into the housing. Worth finding out, it might work though!

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Well it appears that your wheels were balanced individually which means that you can probably rebuild it yourself. If the compressor nut was ground down the assembly was balanced as one unit. Here is a good link.

http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/turbo/turborebuild.html


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Well, it looks JUST like this one except that the compressor housing on mine has been "show polished" (what a joke), so would explain the lack of the A/R rating cast on the housing.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/T3-T4-Turbo-50-A-R-500-whp-57T-Civic-Integra-GARRETT_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33742QQitemZ8018029803

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It's been confirmed ... compression tester arrived today with the "long neck" threads and I immediately tested cylinder #5 ... 0 ... the needle NEVER moved. I thought I hooked it up wrong, so I moved on to cylinder #6 and got a 170-172psi reading. Then I skipped back over to #4 ... 165-167psi reading. Then back to #5, just in case the gauge was acting up on the first try ... NADA, NOTHING ... I'm LIVID!

So, I call the previous owner and leave a nice voicemail since he didn't pick up his phone. I'm planning on leaving a message a day until he returns my call. If I don't hear anything from him by Friday of next week, I'm consulting a lawyer.

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Turbo kit is junk, now the motor is junk. Man, I would be pissed too! Id like to see pictures of the engine once its torn down.


Jim Hahn 1996 T-Red Contour SE Reborn 4/6/04 3.0L swap and Arizona Dyno Chip Turbo Kit 364 whp, 410 wtq @ 4,700 rpm
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I feel for you...

but I don't think there is any law that protects you really. Let us know what the lawyer says.


98 E0 SVT with some stuff
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Like I said. I saw the same things before on my own engine. You have cracked ring lands on those pistons most likely.

Actually, there is hope. If you pull the engine and find that the cylinders are not scratched then you can get pistons installed, probably someone has pistons from another SVT that fried, ones that were in good cylinders. I'm sure they'd just give them to you for the cost of shipping, I know I would if I had them.
If the block is thrashed, there are several SVT blocks floating around that wouldn't be that bad to get hold, unless you want to do a 3L job on it. You did say the car was in great shape right?


Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760 356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas! See My Mods '05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red '06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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Originally posted by fastcougar:
It's been confirmed ... compression tester arrived today with the "long neck" threads and I immediately tested cylinder #5 ... 0 ... the needle NEVER moved. I thought I hooked it up wrong, so I moved on to cylinder #6 and got a 170-172psi reading. Then I skipped back over to #4 ... 165-167psi reading. Then back to #5, just in case the gauge was acting up on the first try ... NADA, NOTHING ... I'm LIVID!

So, I call the previous owner and leave a nice voicemail since he didn't pick up his phone. I'm planning on leaving a message a day until he returns my call. If I don't hear anything from him by Friday of next week, I'm consulting a lawyer.




Well, on the lawyer part, you have the evidence you need to prove that the engine was not in good shape when you got it.

1.-- the burnt carbon on the plug is evidence that it happened previously. That oil wasn't fresh, it was old. The fresh, unburnt oil on it is obvious too.

2.-- The turbo pic shows oil in the inlet and that is from excessive blowby due to broken pistons. The excess pressure in the crank case pushes oil out everywhere, but mostly it comes past the labyrinth seals in the turbo itself because the pressure in the turbo drain pipe is the same as the crankcase = high with lots of blowby.

3.-- You'll have the broken pistons themselves when you pull them out and photograph them.

4.-- You'll need the mileage at the sale time of the car and the mileage right now when you tore it down. Hopefully you didn't drive it much otherwise none of the above will mean squat.

5.-- Last, you need the whole description, pics, and everything that were on the ebay add. It must somewhere in there say, "Runs good" or somehow tells you that it didn't have any problems before you will be able to collect anything at all. If it says "as-is" or "Condition Unknown" or anything like that, just hang it up as you will not get anything.

Again, we will help you on here with information to rebuild the car and of course with the turbo for the cougar so it won't be a total loss.

Just some ideas to help out:
Would be to post Common interests to find out who wants an SVT and who might want one with a 3L in it. If you have someone who can't put in their own 3L but wants one and is willing to make a deal with you, then just build it the way they want it so you can enhance the sale. This gives them a guarantee on how it is built and the quality of everything since it is all public. I know I'd want to buy one this way, almost built to order so to speak!


Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760 356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas! See My Mods '05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red '06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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