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Joined: Feb 2005
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Hard-core CEG\'er
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But did all that oil go? It has to be somewhere. If he normally loses 1/2 a quart and he was down 2qts, that is 1.5qts, also the the 2qts he put in. and the light came back on. So there should be 3.5 qts floating around somewhere! 
1998 SE Duratec V6 ATX
Ebay intake with K&N Filter
Trubendz Exhaust
Custom Hood
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Joined: May 2005
Posts: 584
Veteran CEG\'er
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Veteran CEG\'er
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Originally posted by Shotsatiated:
So what you're telling me is my engine will have low oil pressure if I run it at the factory recommended?
Perhaps I didn't explain the situation as well as I should have. The oil light problem (coming on and/or flickering during turns, sometimes when driveing also) is still happening after I filled the engine with oil. Thus the reason I'm asking if anyone has any ideas.
-Thanks
Did you check the oil level any time after you filled it back up? After you got back home safe? I would suspect that you have once again lost some oil.
E0 Silver Frost CSVT #3095/6535
Alpine CDA-9851
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Hard-core CEG\'er
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With the e-brake on put the car in 1st gear. Slowly let the clutch out and give a little gas like you would to pull away but the brake will hold the car then push the clutch back in. This will create a load on the engine. If the bearings are spun you will start to get a rod knock...push the clutch back in and shut it off. My car spun the rod bearings around 25K (still under 3/36). You could only here the knock when it was under a load and mainly in 1st or 2nd gear. The dealer did the same test listed above to determine if the bearings where bad or not. The bottom end can be completely rebuilt while in the car from the bottom if the crankshaft isn't trashed. We caught mine quick before a lot of damage was done. All crankshaft journals were still within tolerance. A set of bearings, pan gasket and I was back on the road in one day...quite a bit cheaper then a 3L if you are not ready for that yet. Now, 25k later and I'm still running... knock-on-wood!
Scott
2000 Contour SVT #1464
Mustang Dyno: 171.6hp/145.3lb
Dynojet Dyno: 171.1hp/148.9lb
1989 20th Anniversary Turbo T/A "Indy 500 Pace Car"
#1376 of 1550 All Original, 46k with a few mods 
2002 F150 SuperCrew
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Joined: Jul 2005
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CEG\'er
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Hey guys,
Oil level was still at full when I got home. I added yet another quart but with no avail. I didn't really have time today but I do have some new information...
1. Sometimes it will idle *decently* but for the most part the car stumbles and dies. Example: Upon releasing the throttle when approaching a stop light the car will die or attempt to. The oil light will also illuminate briefly. Although if you rev the engine slightly it's fine, well with the exception of the noise and runing rough.
2. I also pulled codes. One bank was running lean, I forget which. Cylinders 3 and 4 had misfire conditions.
3. Attempted to pinpoint the noise with a electronic tracer ear, diffinitely coming from the lower portion of the engine. The noise sound something between connnecting rod and piston slap. My automotive instructor said he's heard the noise before.......right before it went. 
So at the moment I'm thinking oil punmp, bearing, connecting rod at the least. Tomorrow I'm pulling the oil pan to have a look at the damage, take a look at the cylinders wall ect. I'll try to borrow a friends camera and update with pic for you guys.
-Thanks
1999 Mercury Mystique LS 3L Manual
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Joined: Jul 2005
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1999 Mercury Mystique LS 3L Manual
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Joined: May 2000
Posts: 21,197
I have no life
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I have no life
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 21,197 |
Originally posted by Shotsatiated:
I'm going to replace all of the rod bearings and pray it holds until 3L time. Any recommendations while I'm down there?
Are you trying to kid yourself?! With a blown bottom end your wasting your time if you think just fitting bearings will get some more life out of the engine. The crank is shot as are the rods that spun the bearings. Fitting new bearings to a crank and rods in that state will last....30 sec's tops!
-'96 SE MTX 3L
-'98 SVT 1,173 of 6,535
-'05 Mazda 6s, loaded, g/f's ride
-Need a 96-00 manual on CD? PM or email me
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Joined: Nov 2005
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New CEG\'er
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New CEG\'er
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Originally posted by Shotsatiated:
Any recommendations while I'm down there?
When you are replacing the bearings, use tri-metal "Clevite" bearings. They have a layer of tin, a layer of copper, and a layer of bronze. You may be able to get some additional life out of that 2.5L using those bearings. If you use the cheapie bearings, you will be in the same boat again soon.
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Joined: May 2000
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I have no life
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I have no life
Joined: May 2000
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And your advice is 1000000% out and out bullsh*t! You don't know squat about how an engine works. Clevites in that engine will not do squat. IT'S SHOT!!! Go ahead and dump $70 worth of bearings in there. Start it up and come back and let us know how the engine ran.
-'96 SE MTX 3L
-'98 SVT 1,173 of 6,535
-'05 Mazda 6s, loaded, g/f's ride
-Need a 96-00 manual on CD? PM or email me
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Joined: Sep 2002
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Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
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Originally posted by todras:
And your advice is 1000000% out and out bullsh*t! You don't know squat about how an engine works. Clevites in that
engine will not do squat. IT'S SHOT!!! Go ahead and dump $70 worth of bearings in there. Start it up and come back and let us know how the engine ran.
This is not from personal experience, but my friend swapped his bearings in his honduh when they started to go and he replaced em with clevites and the knock has not come back. Granted he's no mechanical genius so...Todd I am holding judgement, and would research, but finals are this week. 
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Joined: May 2000
Posts: 21,197
I have no life
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I have no life
Joined: May 2000
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Originally posted by MapOfTaziFoShoâ�??¢:
This is not from personal experience, but my friend swapped his bearings in his honduh when they started to go and he replaced em with clevites and the knock has not come back. Granted he's no mechanical genius so...Todd I am holding judgement, and would research, but finals are this week.
Yea WHEN THEY STARTED TO GO! His bearings are already wiped out. SOMETIMES it can be saved if you catch it very early. Guys on SHOForum have saved Yamaha's as well. Tell me when the bearings and rods have that much scoring what happens? Metal has to go somewhere doesn't it? Where does it go and what happens? Digs into the rod bearing and crank creating pits, gouge's and other imperfections. The tolerances are so tight it's incredible.
-'96 SE MTX 3L
-'98 SVT 1,173 of 6,535
-'05 Mazda 6s, loaded, g/f's ride
-Need a 96-00 manual on CD? PM or email me
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