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Originally posted by Halogram:
Originally posted by sysanalyst:
Quote:
The purpose of putting that picture up was to give you an idea about how to connect the wires to the coil as there may have been some concern on which wire went to which plug.
I know how to connect the wires to the coil  I work on cars for a living  . But anyways What I need to know is Firing order is 1-4-3-2 or 1-3-4-2
which is Correct?
If that is firing order next question is looking at the motor from the front of the car is it 1-2-3-4 or 4-3-2-1
Problem Ive seen to many contradictory things in books and sites. One says this is the way shows the coil numbered one way, then ill see another one and the coil is numbered another way. OK
Next thing I need to know is Look at this picture.
Based on this picture it is notch closest to the holes in the pulley is this correct?
If so then the motor is timed like it should be. Cams were aligned, and I used tire crayon to highlight the notch and the key on the side of the block. The timing belt was put on backwards and we lossened the cam sprokets to get any play out of the belt from crank to exhaust cam, exhaust cam to intake cam. No play there what so ever. Well lets start with this and see if I have something backwards or not done properly.
I was not trying to impugn your intelligence, and if that is what happened, I truly apologize. Heck, I'm a computer analyst with a Contour, only work on them now and again, definitely not an auto repair professional. Just trying to display which wire goes to which plug - hardware is sort of challenging to us softwre people - didn't know your background.
I've looked at our '98 SE Zetec and it looks like it is wired as in the picture, meaning each wire from the coil goes to the plug as pictured on that "confusing" diagram with the #1 pointing a what should be #4 cylinder.
As far as the crank pulley marks, darn, even the factory manual indicates the "big" notch is there as a reference to keep all pistons off of TDC. I'd take that to mean that the big mark means next to nothing, although very confusing.
All told, I'd do the dial indicator method of finding TDC, lock the crank, align the cams, put on the belt (there was a n 8 step procedure for adjusting it on the CDROM) and run a compression test before buttoning her up.
Here is a silly idea;
Hook up a timing light to what is believed to be #1 plug, have somebody turn over the engine. Shine the light against the crank pulley and find out if either notch is TDC for once and for all. Also, if possible, point the light down #1 plug hole to make sure the spark is occuring when the piston is near the top of the bore (and that no valves are open on that cylinder either).
Know it must be horribly frustrating trying to figure this one out when even the factory manuals don't do a good job of displaying repair details.
Let me know if any pictures from under the hood of a '98 Contour 2.0 zetec would be of help? Perhaps a picture of the coil top with the numbers on it and which plugs the wires go to.
Good luck.
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Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 410
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My 2.0 went crazy when the battery went south as well.
This sounds like timing to me. The first time I changed my belt, the intake side was 1 cog off. The car ran brutal!
While you have the head off, insure it isn't warped. Bad water pump causes aluminum to away fast.
PCM relay?
95 Contour GL. Bought new.
BAT Sway Bars/Pioneer CD/Koni Rear Struts/Mobil Fluids.
Looking for 15" alloy rims-PM me.
180,500km's so far.
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Cylinder 1 is passenger side by the timing cover. Valves should be closed, cam lobes not pushing down on valves. My 1995 Ford binder says TDC and lock cams with tool, the notches are not discussed at all...
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Originally posted by FavoriteMystaque:
Cylinder 1 is passenger side by the timing cover. Valves should be closed, cam lobes not pushing down on valves. My 1995 Ford binder says TDC and lock cams with tool, the notches are not discussed at all...
The notches are discussed on the installation instructions. They instruct to turn the crank to the "big notch" in order to make sure all pistons are down when installing the cylinder head (since some of the valves may be in an open condition depending upon camshaft position). This would lead me to believe that the notches cannot be trusted to indicate much of anything.
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OP
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ok here is something we noticd on the car which may be the litle problem as to why the car wont fire.  this is the sensor im talking about see it to the right of the cat, is that the crank position sensor? cause pretty much right by it is the pcv valve, if it is that connector is fubar beyond repair, all brittle and mangled up. Does ford sell a replacement connector for this? Ok and there is a sensor that goes to the top of the water neck housing. One below and one above. the below one is the temperature gauge whats the one above it in the housing itself, those wires are fubar as well, not touching one another but bare wire is showing on that one. So basicaly what your saying is to look down spark plug #1 hole and TDC it from there then, take the alignment tool align the cams and try that. Ok luckily its a non-interference motor. Also even if the head was warped it should still fire. According to the person i bought it from the car was running with coolant and what not in the oil and then just quit running, so that tells me MAYBE that one or the other meaning crank sensor or cam sensor is screwed up, but wouldnt the check engine light stay on while cranking if no signal is found from those?
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friday im gonna check the cam and crank sensor anyone know what ohms/resistance they are suppose to be at?
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That's looking like the crank position sensor plug in the photo. I looked up the powertrain diagnostics from Ford, they tell you how to test everything scientifically (with an oscilloscope) except the resistance of the sensors!  Measure both, they should be close in resistance. If one is open circuit,or dead short, bad. Maybe someone has some laying around they can test? Maybe just connect everything and try it next.
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I think you found your culprit. The item you have pictured that is on the block and just behind the flywheel is indeed the CPS (Crankshaft Position Sensor). It is very difficult to remove as I was going to replace mine (as a maint. item) but was unable to remove it. I couldn't imagine the engine running without it as it is the "distributor pickup" in effect and provides the signal for the engine spark timing. If it were me and I found the connector to be in unservicable shape, I'd clip one off a donor vehicle in a "heap yard" and splice it on in.
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Is your Zetec running today?
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ok been awhile car was put aside for a few months due to money flow. Anyways, got the car running, new, plugs, wires, IAC, MAF, fuel filter, upper gaskets, air filter, pcv (what a pain). Now the car ran good when we first fired it up cold, no missing nothing. Got warm, and started chattering, and misfiring/rough idle. We thought IAC, so we changed the IAC. Now its complete oppisite, hard start when cold, and idles when warmed up, but idle is very rough like its starving. Now we hit the fuel shrader valve since we didnt get ahold of a fuel pressure tester yet, and hardly any fuel comes out of the valve. Is that normal, or should we go ahead and pressure check it. Sounds like a possible fuel pump problem with lack of proper pressure. Maybe it could be a possible semi clogged cat, but we drove the car and wasnt up to par on power but wasnt lacking it. Car is makin us  
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