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i am going to put nitrous on my contour, 75 shot and i need to know what kit to buy, wet or dry . also i had my sct chip burned with a setting for nitrous and for without nitrous what things do i need to do to my motor like colder plugs, or any other thing's.
the kit i found for 450.00 shipped has this The kit is made by nos
NOS 10 lb HI-FLOW Bottle with Nipple & Mounting Brackets (Empty Bottle)
12" 3AN Stainless Steel Nitrous Feed Line with Anodized Blue Fittings
12" 3AN Stainless Steel Fuel Solenoid Line with Anodized Red Fittings
14 Ft 3AN Stainless Steel Nitrous Feed Line with Anodized Blue Fittings
2 NOS Solenoids (Fuel/Nitrous)
NOS Fogger Nozzle with 4 Jets (35hp/50hp/75hp/100hp)
14" Fuel Line with Brass Fittings
Master Power and Throttle Position With Bracket
All Required Brackets, Screws, Ties & Connectors
NOS Emblem
i have a bottle warmer too.
thanks
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I would get the Zex kit that has been used a number of times on here. Less hassle and easier to install. RandySVT just installed one and posted pics, so PM him about it.
2000 SVT Turbo 295hp/269ftlb@12psi
#1 for Bendix Brakes Kits!
Knuckles rebuilt w/new bearings $55
AUSSIE ENDLINKS $70
Gutted pre-cats $80/set
A lack of planning on your part does not constitute an emergency on mine!
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Is the kit used?
And the other question is what engine are those jet/hp rating sizes specific too? A 35hp jet size is going to be signficantly more for a CSVT than a 5.0L if you know what I mean.
IF the kit is used, and your relatively new to the squeeze, I'd go with the ZEX; especially if your going to install yourself.
Ryan
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you need plugs that are one step colder. NGK makes these and they are part number TR6. I would only use a dry kit if I were you. Do some searching and you will see that our intake manifold design would lead to a puddling effect with a wet kit. The zex kit was really easy to install and I highly recommend it. Pm me if you have any more questions.
Originally posted by Who the F are You?:
does your family tree not have any branches on it?
99SVT
235hp @ 6550rpm
212tq @ 5350rpm
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Originally posted by RandyCSVT:
you need plugs that are one step colder. NGK makes these and they are part number TR6. I would only use a dry kit if I were you. Do some searching and you will see that our intake manifold design would lead to a puddling effect with a wet kit. The zex kit was really easy to install and I highly recommend it. Pm me if you have any more questions.
Depending on the shot size you may or may not need colder plugs...same with the puddling you mention. It depends on the size of the shot. The bigger the shot on a wet kit the more prone it could be to puddling. However, IMO, 100> you are most likely not going to run into the puddling issue....
Ryan
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Originally posted by RandyCSVT:
you need plugs that are one step colder. NGK makes these and they are part number TR6. I would only use a dry kit if I were you. Do some searching and you will see that our intake manifold design would lead to a puddling effect with a wet kit. The zex kit was really easy to install and I highly recommend it. Pm me if you have any more questions.
ok i know the possibility of this puddling...but i have been thru 10-10lb. bottles of N2O with my NX wet kit now and i have had 0 problems.
1999 Cougar V6 MTX
SVT UIM/LIM/65mm TB, I/H/E, Fidanza/SPEC III/Torsen, Koni/GC's, 19" Icon wheels w/ Pirelli rubber, NX Wet Kit
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Originally posted by 99cougar:
Originally posted by RandyCSVT:
you need plugs that are one step colder. NGK makes these and they are part number TR6. I would only use a dry kit if I were you. Do some searching and you will see that our intake manifold design would lead to a puddling effect with a wet kit. The zex kit was really easy to install and I highly recommend it. Pm me if you have any more questions.
ok i know the possibility of this puddling...but i have been thru 10-10lb. bottles of N2O with my NX wet kit now and i have had 0 problems.
what size shot are you running?
Ryan
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i am running a 75 shot...now i know it is "supposed" to be ok with a 75 shot. puddling should not be an issue, but when people come on here and say "don't get a wet kit it WILL puddle with out intake design" it kinda disturbs me. like you said 100> will be fine...when i get closer to 3L time i will prove that. i WILL run a 100 shot day in day out, and see what it does. but personally i don't think it wil do anything. now i do have to say i have had a couple nitrous explosions happen to me when i FIRST put in the 75 shot, but it was my fault not the intake manifolds. i just simply sprayed it at too low of an RPM...simple fix with a window switch that i still don't have  . if you can get a wet kit cheap...good. just take the same precautions like you would for anyo ther nitrous kit, and you'll be fine. another upside to a wet kit...you don't have to upgrade the injectors. yes you may need to upgrade the fuel pump, but that is a 100 dollar fix on a return style car. yes it may be a little more expensive for a returnless style car, but at least you don't HAVE to get a dyno tune or something of the like in order to get the injectors programed for the car 
1999 Cougar V6 MTX
SVT UIM/LIM/65mm TB, I/H/E, Fidanza/SPEC III/Torsen, Koni/GC's, 19" Icon wheels w/ Pirelli rubber, NX Wet Kit
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I am not saying you cant run a wet kit, I am just saying that I decided not to because of what I have researched on CEG. I know the dry kit will work, its easy and gets me past the 250+FWHP mark. That is all I really care about.
Originally posted by Who the F are You?:
does your family tree not have any branches on it?
99SVT
235hp @ 6550rpm
212tq @ 5350rpm
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Originally posted by RandyCSVT:
I am not saying you cant run a wet kit, I am just saying that I decided not to because of what I have researched on CEG. I know the dry kit will work, its easy and gets me past the 250+FWHP mark. That is all I really care about.
i wasn't attacking you by any means please don't think that. i was just saying if you want more power than the stock injectors can supply then a wet kit is a btter way to go, and the fuel will not always puddle. that's all
PS when you get your kit running good and all...take it to the track with some drag radials 
1999 Cougar V6 MTX
SVT UIM/LIM/65mm TB, I/H/E, Fidanza/SPEC III/Torsen, Koni/GC's, 19" Icon wheels w/ Pirelli rubber, NX Wet Kit
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the kit is brand new, it is for focus svt, ford mustang with v6, contour svt, ford fuzion, ford 500, what kit is better a wet kit or dry? i will be running a 75 shot. i allready make 220fwhp im trying to get in 13'S. i will get colder plugs too if i need them.
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the wet v dry thing is a matter of opinion and depends on your current and future plans. I like'em wet for some reason....
Ryan
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Originally posted by JustStock- Wikkid-:
i allready make 220fwhp
Oh boy.. The 220fwhp N/A 2.5L!! 
Originally posted by JustStock- Wikkid-:
im trying to get in 13'S.
If you actually had 220fwhp, you should be able to get into the 13.9 range with some good tires...... and good driving ofcourse..
Mark
2000 Black CSVT
3.0L Hybrid - 206fwhp & 195fwtq
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Originally posted by Y2KSVT:
Originally posted by JustStock- Wikkid-:
i allready make 220fwhp
Oh boy.. The 220fwhp N/A 2.5L!!
Originally posted by JustStock- Wikkid-:
im trying to get in 13'S.
If you actually had 220fwhp, you should be able to get into the 13.9 range with some good tires...... and good driving ofcourse..
Mark
Lemme guess, that was done with a G-Tech going down hill.
2000 SVT Turbo 295hp/269ftlb@12psi
#1 for Bendix Brakes Kits!
Knuckles rebuilt w/new bearings $55
AUSSIE ENDLINKS $70
Gutted pre-cats $80/set
A lack of planning on your part does not constitute an emergency on mine!
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No Stazi, don't you remember his dyno graph? It looked more like a heartbeat on an electrocardiogram!
Mark
2000 Black CSVT
3.0L Hybrid - 206fwhp & 195fwtq
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Jesus, that's horrible - looks like something cooked up on Excel95. Dyno?? I wouldn't trust a dyno like that if my life counted on it.
2000 SVT Turbo 295hp/269ftlb@12psi
#1 for Bendix Brakes Kits!
Knuckles rebuilt w/new bearings $55
AUSSIE ENDLINKS $70
Gutted pre-cats $80/set
A lack of planning on your part does not constitute an emergency on mine!
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Yeah, I posted my dyno in that thread I believe too done by the same dyno shop...
Ryan
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Holy moly I can't beleive I missed that. I saw your dyno and lost it. LMMFAO! 
2000 SVT Turbo 295hp/269ftlb@12psi
#1 for Bendix Brakes Kits!
Knuckles rebuilt w/new bearings $55
AUSSIE ENDLINKS $70
Gutted pre-cats $80/set
A lack of planning on your part does not constitute an emergency on mine!
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that one must be Mark's when his Venom kit was acting up. This one is mine 
Ryan
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Awesome - I love how the crossover point is at 4250rpm! The loop is priceless.
2000 SVT Turbo 295hp/269ftlb@12psi
#1 for Bendix Brakes Kits!
Knuckles rebuilt w/new bearings $55
AUSSIE ENDLINKS $70
Gutted pre-cats $80/set
A lack of planning on your part does not constitute an emergency on mine!
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Hahaa, that was SAV's dyno on his Kia minivan.
Ryan, that dyno of yours cracks me up!!
Mark
2000 Black CSVT
3.0L Hybrid - 206fwhp & 195fwtq
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Santa Clause is coming to town!!!!
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LMAO!
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#1 for Bendix Brakes Kits!
Knuckles rebuilt w/new bearings $55
AUSSIE ENDLINKS $70
Gutted pre-cats $80/set
A lack of planning on your part does not constitute an emergency on mine!
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Originally posted by 222fwhp "[censored] Off":
[censored] All You inmature cock suckers . may you all burn in hell and same with your cars.
You guys make CEG suck a$$
Oopsy, touched a nerve!
2000 SVT Turbo 295hp/269ftlb@12psi
#1 for Bendix Brakes Kits!
Knuckles rebuilt w/new bearings $55
AUSSIE ENDLINKS $70
Gutted pre-cats $80/set
A lack of planning on your part does not constitute an emergency on mine!
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I'll Just Buy a Kit. Thanks For the help.
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Originally posted by -Wikkid-[censored]-:
I'll Just Buy a Kit. Thanks For the help.
Look at my second post - I helped you out. 
2000 SVT Turbo 295hp/269ftlb@12psi
#1 for Bendix Brakes Kits!
Knuckles rebuilt w/new bearings $55
AUSSIE ENDLINKS $70
Gutted pre-cats $80/set
A lack of planning on your part does not constitute an emergency on mine!
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Originally posted by Stazi:
Originally posted by 222fwhp "[censored:
Off"] [censored] All You inmature cock suckers . may you all burn in hell and same with your cars.
You guys make CEG suck a$$
Oopsy, touched a nerve!
Nice!! 
Mark
2000 Black CSVT
3.0L Hybrid - 206fwhp & 195fwtq
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Originally posted by Stazi:
Originally posted by 222fwhp "[censored:
Off"] [censored] All You inmature cock suckers . may you all burn in hell and same with your cars.
You guys make CEG suck a$$
Oopsy, touched a nerve!
Damn. I can't believe I missed this one! I remember the dyno graphs but this current redo of the subject has me in friggin tears...especially his reply.
Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760
356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas!
See My Mods
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So with using a ~50HP dry ZEX shot do you have to get a flip chip programed or will the kit cover everything ok? Also, do I have a return or returnless on my early 98 standard duratec? I don't have much money to spend and I want a little extra umph with a press of a button.
Alex
00 T-Red/Tan SVTC
#1964/2150
167 HP @6800
153 TQ @3000
Sold-
98 'Tour SE 24V 5-spd
149 HP @5900
148 LB FT @4300
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Originally posted by 98_HO_Contour:
So with using a ~50HP dry ZEX shot do you have to get a flip chip programed or will the kit cover everything ok? Also, do I have a return or returnless on my early 98 standard duratec? I don't have much money to spend and I want a little extra umph with a press of a button.
with just a 50 shot no chip is needed. you have a return style, and all i would do is change out the plugs for some NGK TR55's coppers and role like that.
1999 Cougar V6 MTX
SVT UIM/LIM/65mm TB, I/H/E, Fidanza/SPEC III/Torsen, Koni/GC's, 19" Icon wheels w/ Pirelli rubber, NX Wet Kit
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Originally posted by 99cougar:
Originally posted by 98_HO_Contour:
So with using a ~50HP dry ZEX shot do you have to get a flip chip programed or will the kit cover everything ok? Also, do I have a return or returnless on my early 98 standard duratec? I don't have much money to spend and I want a little extra umph with a press of a button.
with just a 50 shot no chip is needed. you have a return style, and all i would do is change out the plugs for some NGK TR55's coppers and role like that.
Actually, ZEX recomends a 2* timing retard for a 50 shot, a 35 shot however, does not recquire a timing retard.
Robert
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I didn't want to start another post since my question basically falls under this topic. I have been toying with the idea of a turbo for my car but I really do'nt have the time to spend on that project or the desire to drop $6k into it either. So now I am looking into nitrous. Sounds like a pretty easy install which doesn't require much modification to my car other than different plugs. Couple quick questions though....from the looks of it, ZEX makes generic kits to fit all vehicles depending on the engine size, is that true or do they make a kit specially for the Contour SVT? I saw some kits on ebay for a little less than what ZEX sells them for, so is there any reason not to get a kit from ebay so long as it is new? Also, I read some things about changing the injectors out...is that necessary or just an option to get more power? Also, do you have to change out the ECU to accomodate a nitrous system or does the kit come with everything you need to use it? One more thing....I have a 98 SVT so I believe it has a return type fuel pump, but I have a few modifications that I want to make sure will still work with a nitrous system. So far I have a sho-shop, catless y-pipe, optimized TB, intake (heatshield with open filter and BAT inlet pipe), and a Superchip. BTW what does it cost to refill a bottle of nitrous and where can that be done? Sorry to drop so many questions but I am new to forced induction.
98' Contour SVT
#607 of 6535
05' Mazda 6s
Audio/Visual enthusiast because it's one of the many things I went through 4 years of hell for
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Originally posted by bullion:
I didn't want to start another post since my question basically falls under this topic. I have been toying with the idea of a turbo for my car but I really do'nt have the time to spend on that project or the desire to drop $6k into it either. So now I am looking into nitrous. Sounds like a pretty easy install which doesn't require much modification to my car other than different plugs. Couple quick questions though....from the looks of it, ZEX makes generic kits to fit all vehicles depending on the engine size, is that true or do they make a kit specially for the Contour SVT? I saw some kits on ebay for a little less than what ZEX sells them for, so is there any reason not to get a kit from ebay so long as it is new? Also, I read some things about changing the injectors out...is that necessary or just an option to get more power? Also, do you have to change out the ECU to accomodate a nitrous system or does the kit come with everything you need to use it? One more thing....I have a 98 SVT so I believe it has a return type fuel pump, but I have a few modifications that I want to make sure will still work with a nitrous system. So far I have a sho-shop, catless y-pipe, optimized TB, intake (heatshield with open filter and BAT inlet pipe), and a Superchip. BTW what does it cost to refill a bottle of nitrous and where can that be done? Sorry to drop so many questions but I am new to forced induction.
82011 = ZEX dry kit part #
82021 = ZEX wet kit part #
No need to swap ECU's. You'll want to get a chip or Xcal2 to switch programs for nitrous and N/A. It'll need to have some timing pulled, depending on the shot you want to run.
Ebay is a good place to find these kits. Just put in the part#'s I gave you into the search line, and the kits will come up automatically.
A 10# bottle will cost in the $35-45 range to fill, depending on the rates in your area. Look at the $45 range just to be safe, as a lot of places charge ~$4/lb. You'll want to call around to speed shops in your area to see if they can fill your bottle.
And before you ask, purge valves are for show, and not really needed on these small 50-75 shots. I suggest getting a bottle warmer and a bottle blanket for optimum nitrous pressure. A nitrous gauge would be a good idea, along with a blow down tube on the bottle. If you've got the money, a remote bottle opener would be nice!
Mark
2000 Black CSVT
3.0L Hybrid - 206fwhp & 195fwtq
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If I had it, I could get N2O locally for $2.50/lb. cause Im cool like that. Actually, thats just because of a certain state wide car enthusiast forum.
#4559 of 6535 born on Feb 17, 1998
Black 1998.5 CSVT
FOR SALE [cleaning house]: SVT rear swaybar. Reasonable offer and its yours!
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How long could I expect a bottle to last? I'm sure this has been brought up before, but wouldn't the long term effects of running nitrous decrease the life of your engine?
98' Contour SVT
#607 of 6535
05' Mazda 6s
Audio/Visual enthusiast because it's one of the many things I went through 4 years of hell for
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Originally posted by bullion:
How long could I expect a bottle to last? I'm sure this has been brought up before, but wouldn't the long term effects of running nitrous decrease the life of your engine?
Its the same affect a turbo or s/c has; however it is a more maintenance type F/I. the number of passes depends on the size of the motor / shot you run. Most likely probably 10-15 passes.
Ryan
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So you are saying that the effects of using nitrous would be similar to that of a turbo which really doesn't threaten the life of engines, correct?
98' Contour SVT
#607 of 6535
05' Mazda 6s
Audio/Visual enthusiast because it's one of the many things I went through 4 years of hell for
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Originally posted by bullion:
So you are saying that the effects of using nitrous would be similar to that of a turbo which really doesn't threaten the life of engines, correct?
No, that's not what I'm saying. All FI are similar in the sense that they are shoving extra air into the motor. Its how its done. ALL power adders need an appropriate tune (key factor). Nitrous is probably the hardest on engine parts then all three (N2O, T/C, or S/C) power adders out there and requires more preventative maintenance (checking plugs, solenoid filters, etc) than the other two FIs. There is going to be added wear on all FI engines internals regardless. People who don't know the repercussions or want something that they can forget about after install shouldn't play with the bottle.
Ryan
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Any form of FI can ruin an engine if not properly set up and tuned! A turbo or S/C can toast an engine just as fast as N2O if they were not set up properly.
N2O has a bad rep. from idiots who think they can just spray without taking the necessary precautions like realistic shot sizes, new plugs, timing, maybe injectors, tuning, etc. etc. Turbo and S/C kits *generally* come with the parts required to run safely, so it seems like there is less to do to make them "safe." N2O kits need a bit more responsibility on the user end, and many people just skip that part.
Bottom line, any form of FI can be safe if the necessary precautions are taken. You can run hundreds of N2O tanks through an engine if you 1) use a shot that that engine can realisticly handle 2) make sure you use it at the proper times (no 1st gear, no low RPMs, etc.) 3) TUNE TUNE TUNE!
With all that said, if you want boost every time you step on the gas, then N2O is probably not for you. Refills arent cheap, and as it was said, a 10 lb. tank usually lasts 10-15 runs, depending on the shot size. If you use it constantly, you may as well just throw your money out the window as you drive along.
#4559 of 6535 born on Feb 17, 1998
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Well said Chris. I've had my nitrous kit for what, 5 months now and have only put 3 bottles through it. Two of them were doing testing/tuning to find out the limitations of it, and the third was on a low setting just to be safe. I still don't have all of the bugs worked out, but that doesn't have to do with the kit itself. The big thing is tuning, and a close second is moderation. It's cheaper up front to install the nitrous kit, but can get expensive if you can't decipher when you should and shouldn't be spraying.
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Originally posted by KingpinSVT:
If I had it, I could get N2O locally for $2.50/lb. cause Im cool like that. Actually, thats just because of a certain state wide car enthusiast forum.
i get it for 2.50-3.00 dollars a lb. where i am 
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The best I can get it is $3.25/lb. This is from a guy I know that has a refill station in his garage. He has to rent the tank itself for I believe $60, then pays $2.00/lb I want to say. He pretty much does it because he runs through a LOT of nitrous himself, and can hook a few people up on the side. He's not making really any money off of it after renting the bottle, and paying for everything else that goes along with it. Not to mention, a 60lb tank is usually all air in the last 5lbs.
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Thanks for all the info. I knew nitrous probably wouldn't give me the results I was looking for but I figured I would look into it any ways. I am looking for more of an add-on that is always present during driving and not at the push of a button. I guess I just have to wait and see if I find a good deal on a S/C or T/C because there is no way I am buying a brand new ADC turbo kit for $6k.
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You pay to play. and since when is the ADC kit $6k?
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They have gone up in price, T28- $5,500, T3T4E- $6,000. Check arizonadynochip.com 
#4559 of 6535 born on Feb 17, 1998
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Originally posted by KingpinSVT:
They have gone up in price, T28- $5,500, T3T4E- $6,000. Check arizonadynochip.com
The odd part about that is that the T28 costs twice what a T3/4 does??? 
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Originally posted by DemonSVT:
Originally posted by KingpinSVT:
They have gone up in price, T28- $5,500, T3T4E- $6,000. Check arizonadynochip.com
The odd part about that is that the T28 costs twice what a T3/4 does???
i was thinkin the same thing lol. maybe the price is for the bigger injector/intercooler and stuff like that 
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Yeah, I always thought it was cheaper too.....well, it went up drastically for some reason
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Inflation?
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Darn wages!  Imagine someone wanting more money today than they did yesterday.
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Originally posted by Stazi:
Inflation?
yes i agree with the inflation or making more money part...
i wanted to know exactly why the T3/T4 kit was more when the parts are cheaper...paying 1k for a bigger intercooler and bigger injectors? when the turbo is cheaper?
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Is the T3/4 using the updated stage 3,4,5 system with water cooling and ball bearings?
They have retrofitted their later technology into new releases of their T3/4 turbos so they aren't too shabby. Maybe they are using a good one and of course the intercooler setup is probably worth a few hundred more, and then labor increases. The kit has been out like 3 years now.
Maybe not. Maybe they just want to make more money.
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Originally posted by Y2KSVT:
And before you ask, purge valves are for show, and not really needed on these small 50-75 shots. I suggest getting a bottle warmer and a bottle blanket for optimum nitrous pressure. A nitrous gauge would be a good idea, along with a blow down tube on the bottle. If you've got the money, a remote bottle opener would be nice!
Mark
First, a purge is ESSENTIAL to the proper performance of ANY nitrous kit - REGUARDLESS OF SIZE. It's whole purpose is to remove gaseous nitrous from the feed line so you have liquid nitrous at the solenoid when you spray. This improves system reliability and supplies a consistant amount of LIQUID nitrous to the kit. VERY ESSENTIAL to the kits performance. Ever stumble when the nitrous hits? Purge before you make your run and it goes away. It's like running your turbo without a blow off valve - can you do it? Sure! Will the kit perform the same without one? Probably not. Besides, it is insurance in knowing that when your ready to make your run the line is primed ready to make that run with you .
Second, if you want to purchase a few extra items to go with your kit, a nitrous gauge is nice, a fuel pressure gauge is critical(fuel runs lean and boom!) and a bottle heater should be on the list as well. A blowdown tube is required if the car will be used at the drag strip. They won't let you on without one.
95 Contour, Custom EVO bodykit, 2.0l, PNP Focus head, Stage 2 cams, Je pistons, Eagle rods, 4in1header, 2.5" header back exhaust(complete stainless), D P nitrous, ram air intake, 10mm wires, flamethrower.
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Originally posted by evocontour:
Originally posted by Y2KSVT:
And before you ask, purge valves are for show, and not really needed on these small 50-75 shots. I suggest getting a bottle warmer and a bottle blanket for optimum nitrous pressure. A nitrous gauge would be a good idea, along with a blow down tube on the bottle. If you've got the money, a remote bottle opener would be nice!
Mark
First, a purge is ESSENTIAL to the proper performance of ANY nitrous kit - REGUARDLESS OF SIZE. It's whole purpose is to remove gaseous nitrous from the feed line so you have liquid nitrous at the solenoid when you spray. This improves system reliability and supplies a consistant amount of LIQUID nitrous to the kit. VERY ESSENTIAL to the kits performance. Ever stumble when the nitrous hits? Purge before you make your run and it goes away. It's like running your turbo without a blow off valve - can you do it? Sure! Will the kit perform the same without one? Probably not. Besides, it is insurance in knowing that when your ready to make your run the line is primed ready to make that run with you .
Second, if you want to purchase a few extra items to go with your kit, a nitrous gauge is nice, a fuel pressure gauge is critical(fuel runs lean and boom!) and a bottle heater should be on the list as well. A blowdown tube is required if the car will be used at the drag strip. They won't let you on without one.
Since we're critiquing eachothers posts, not ALL drag strips inspect vehicles before they run. Not all of them care if you have a blowdown tube or not. So therefore it is not required, depending on where you go. Second, a purge kit is not essential. You make it sound as if you're wasting your time running nitrous if you don't have a purge! That 1/1000th of a second that it takes for nitrous to run through the lines isn't going to be too drastic for people running 50 and 75 shots and running 14 and 15 second 1/4 miles. Not to mention on the street. I personally would just do a little WOT blip to get the nitrous through the line before I knew I was going to use it. So again I rest my case, unless you're a hardcore drag racer running a 150+ shot, the average nitrous user isn't going to notice the difference. I will agree with your statement about the nitrous and fuel pressure gauges. Definitely a couple of nice tools to have.
Mark
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another important reason to consider a purge is to clear your lines of nitrous after you are done having fun. Shut off your bottle and there is still high pressure nitrous in the line. This could cause unecessary wear and tear. Pruging the line is much easier and more fun than grabbing a wrench and unscrewing a line to release nitrous pressure.
Originally posted by Who the F are You?:
does your family tree not have any branches on it?
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Originally posted by warmonger:
Is the T3/4 using the updated stage 3,4,5 system with water cooling and ball bearings?
They have retrofitted their later technology into new releases of their T3/4 turbos so they aren't too shabby. Maybe they are using a good one and of course the intercooler setup is probably worth a few hundred more, and then labor increases. The kit has been out like 3 years now.
Maybe not. Maybe they just want to make more money.
okay so maybe it is a new "higher quality" T3/T4. that would explain some of it, and i know the bigger intercooler costs more.
lol...maybe they are trying to jack up prices that way they don't have to sell anymore of them....j/k...please don't stop making them
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I think that to the average person, more power = more $$$$. Not being a huge turbo guy, I would assume that is where the $500 price difference comes from.
Mark
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Originally posted by Y2KSVT:
Originally posted by evocontour:
Originally posted by Y2KSVT:
And before you ask, purge valves are for show, and not really needed on these small 50-75 shots. I suggest getting a bottle warmer and a bottle blanket for optimum nitrous pressure. A nitrous gauge would be a good idea, along with a blow down tube on the bottle. If you've got the money, a remote bottle opener would be nice!
Mark
First, a purge is ESSENTIAL to the proper performance of ANY nitrous kit - REGUARDLESS OF SIZE. It's whole purpose is to remove gaseous nitrous from the feed line so you have liquid nitrous at the solenoid when you spray. This improves system reliability and supplies a consistant amount of LIQUID nitrous to the kit. VERY ESSENTIAL to the kits performance. Ever stumble when the nitrous hits? Purge before you make your run and it goes away. It's like running your turbo without a blow off valve - can you do it? Sure! Will the kit perform the same without one? Probably not. Besides, it is insurance in knowing that when your ready to make your run the line is primed ready to make that run with you .
Second, if you want to purchase a few extra items to go with your kit, a nitrous gauge is nice, a fuel pressure gauge is critical(fuel runs lean and boom!) and a bottle heater should be on the list as well. A blowdown tube is required if the car will be used at the drag strip. They won't let you on without one.
Since we're critiquing eachothers posts, not ALL drag strips inspect vehicles before they run. Not all of them care if you have a blowdown tube or not. So therefore it is not required, depending on where you go. Second, a purge kit is not essential. You make it sound as if you're wasting your time running nitrous if you don't have a purge! That 1/1000th of a second that it takes for nitrous to run through the lines isn't going to be too drastic for people running 50 and 75 shots and running 14 and 15 second 1/4 miles. Not to mention on the street. I personally would just do a little WOT blip to get the nitrous through the line before I knew I was going to use it. So again I rest my case, unless you're a hardcore drag racer running a 150+ shot, the average nitrous user isn't going to notice the difference. I will agree with your statement about the nitrous and fuel pressure gauges. Definitely a couple of nice tools to have.
Mark
Well, since you'd be running VERY RICH when the kit kicks in because the mixture is not correct, you will effect your timeslip  . The stumble and the recovery time will slow you down. Companys like NOS and ZEX will tell you that a system NOT PURGED can cost a few tenths on the quarter mile. You can lay on the purge sometimes for 10-20 seconds before any liquid nitrous comes out. That could cost you a complete run. With smaller jets, it could take EVEN LONGER for it to 'purge' through the nozzle. Using a purge to empty your system after closing the bottle is a very good and safe thing to do (forgot it THANKS!). I have run at 14 different drag strips. Out of the 14 I found ONE  that didn't check for the blowdown tube. But then again, they didn't do any sort of organized racing either. Only the test and tunes. A blow down tube does not have to be made out of metal, it can be just a rubber line/tube put over the burst disc that leads outside of the car. The last thing you want to do is flood your car with a gas that you can't breathe.
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a blow down tube would do me no good. one my tank is in the trunk area. two if i hear a loud noise, or get really cold lol like the nitrous is leaking i am taking no more breaths til i get out of the car!
our local track does not check for a blow-down tube. the track in Jackson, SC does not check for a blow-down tube. the track in Indy for cougarfest did not check for a blow-down tube.
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I thought tracks only required blow down tubes if you had your nitrous bottle in the drivers compartment or in a hatch style car. I thought cars with bottles in the trunk did not need the blow down tube, because if anything happened it would all stay in the trunk.
Originally posted by Who the F are You?:
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Originally posted by RandyCSVT:
I thought tracks only required blow down tubes if you had your nitrous bottle in the drivers compartment or in a hatch style car. I thought cars with bottles in the trunk did not need the blow down tube, because if anything happened it would all stay in the trunk.
I think it depends on if the track is IHRA/NHRA certified.
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Originally posted by RTStabler51:
Originally posted by RandyCSVT:
I thought tracks only required blow down tubes if you had your nitrous bottle in the drivers compartment or in a hatch style car. I thought cars with bottles in the trunk did not need the blow down tube, because if anything happened it would all stay in the trunk.
I think it depends on if the track is IHRA/NHRA certified.
I'm not even sure if that's the case. Terry ran his S-10 with nitrous at IRP, with his bottle directly behind his seat. Now Ryan, do you think Terry had a blowdown tube on his bottle? This is Terry we're talking about. 
Then again, this was at Indy Truck Bash, so I don't know if they were doing any inspections at that time.
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Originally posted by Y2KSVT:
Originally posted by RTStabler51:
Originally posted by RandyCSVT:
I thought tracks only required blow down tubes if you had your nitrous bottle in the drivers compartment or in a hatch style car. I thought cars with bottles in the trunk did not need the blow down tube, because if anything happened it would all stay in the trunk.
I think it depends on if the track is IHRA/NHRA certified.
I'm not even sure if that's the case. Terry ran his S-10 with nitrous at IRP, with his bottle directly behind his seat. Now Ryan, do you think Terry had a blowdown tube on his bottle? This is Terry we're talking about.
Then again, this was at Indy Truck Bash, so I don't know if they were doing any inspections at that time.
Mark
Well, if they didn't inspect then there ya go. I'm 99% sure, that IHRA/NHRA tracks require a blow down tube irregardless. Obviously, that only applies if they do a true tech inspection. I know when I went to MIR last year they asked me if my truck had the juice on it, if I answered 'yes' I'm assuming they were going to ask about the blow down tube....
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Originally posted by RTStabler51:
I'm 99% sure, that IHRA/NHRA tracks require a blow down tube irregardless.
Did you not read my post? Terry went to IRP(Indianapolis Raceway Park) which is OBVIOUSLY an IHRA/NHRA track. He wasn't asked about his bottle, they didn't inspect it, he just ran it. His nitrous setup was so "Terry-Rigged" as I like to call it!
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Originally posted by Y2KSVT:
Did you not read my post? Terry went to IRP(Indianapolis Raceway Park) which is OBVIOUSLY an IHRA/NHRA track.
Mark
Originally posted by RTStabler51:
Obviously, that only applies if they do a true tech inspection.
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Plainly put, Either you can do it the right way which is usually safer and required at sanctioned race events or you can throw caution to the wind and take your life in your own hands. They make rules and regulations that are enforced to keep us from hurting ourselves from our own negligence. These rules sometimes require special items. These items are the what if parts. What if my bottle bursts it's disc, what if my car backfires and catches on fire, what if that fire engulfs my car and ignites the nitrous that is spewing out of nitrous bottle that has filled my car?? There are reasons to have these items installed. They are not just stupid or worthless parts to put on your car. Just imagine that your car might have backfired and the fire spread to the interior of your car because the nitrous was feeding the fire. If you had a blowdown tube, the fire might have taken longer to get out from under the hood and the fire men might have been able to put the fire out before it spread from under your hood. The difference is only a bit more time, but that is all it takes to make the difference. Be smart about the modifications you make. Some of the smallest ones can make more of a difference than you can imagine. 
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this is the kit i bought Nitrous kit i paid 345.00 shipped with 10lb bottle. also do you let off the juice between shifts. also should i do wot switch or a push button for the juice. and i will be getting a dyno tune on my new sct chip 1 for nitrous and 2 for n/a no juice. at this md motorsports in sharonville. should i tell him anything else to burn on the chip??
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It should turn off when you get off the gas and shift - hence a window switch is a must (and I'm pretty sure it comes with one)! Powersifting with the nitrous going will destroy the clutch and tranny in no time. I would say no to a finger-activated switch you must rely on to turn it on and off. In reality you don't want it to hit in first gear, ESPECIALLY if you bog down. I've seen what happens when a guy mashes the zoom juice after bogging the take-off.....lets just say the intake manifold on his 5.0 went through the hood!
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Originally posted by JustStock:
this is the kit i bought Nitrous kit
i paid 345.00 shipped with 10lb bottle.
also do you let off the juice between shifts. also should i do wot switch or a push button for the juice.
and i will be getting a dyno tune on my new sct chip 1 for nitrous and 2 for n/a no juice. at this md motorsports in sharonville. should i tell him anything else to burn on the chip??
Sounds like you should have done a lot more research before buying nitrous. If you dont know the answer to those simple questions, you have a lot to learn. I suggest you read every nitrous thread here and anywhere else you can find before you install that kit.
#4559 of 6535 born on Feb 17, 1998
Black 1998.5 CSVT
FOR SALE [cleaning house]: SVT rear swaybar. Reasonable offer and its yours!
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Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 6,760
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 6,760 |
Stazi, most kits don't come with window switches, just WOT switches. And, powershifting any FI car will hurt the tranny
Ryan
Trollin!
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Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 10,015
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 10,015 |
Without seeing the installtion instructions on the electronic module - but taking an educated guess at it - you could tune the module, prior to connecting it to the nitrous system, to only switch on when you reach a specific speed ooutput from the trannies speed sensor. They also have a voltage based switch which works the same but is based of voltage output rather than speed sensor pulse frequency. The voltage based one would be easy to use by connecting it to the speedo signal wire from the PCM. You'd just adjust it till it would turn on a light (for test purposes) once you reached say 30mph or whatever. those kits are pretty cheap considering the prices are in Australian dollars.
2000 SVT Turbo 295hp/269ftlb@12psi
#1 for Bendix Brakes Kits!
Knuckles rebuilt w/new bearings $55
AUSSIE ENDLINKS $70
Gutted pre-cats $80/set
A lack of planning on your part does not constitute an emergency on mine!
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 718
Veteran CEG\'er
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Veteran CEG\'er
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 718 |
i might have to try that...
1999 Cougar V6 MTX
SVT UIM/LIM/65mm TB, I/H/E, Fidanza/SPEC III/Torsen, Koni/GC's, 19" Icon wheels w/ Pirelli rubber, NX Wet Kit
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Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 5,810
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 5,810 |
Originally posted by Stazi:
Without seeing the installtion instructions on the electronic module - but taking an educated guess at it - you could tune the module, prior to connecting it to the nitrous system, to only switch on when you reach a specific speed ooutput from the trannies speed sensor. They also have a voltage based switch which works the same but is based of voltage output rather than speed sensor pulse frequency. The voltage based one would be easy to use by connecting it to the speedo signal wire from the PCM. You'd just adjust it till it would turn on a light (for test purposes) once you reached say 30mph or whatever. those kits are pretty cheap considering the prices are in Australian dollars.
Can't you ever find anything in English...er...you know what I mean.
Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760
356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas!
See My Mods
'05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red
'06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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