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Originally posted by 99cougar:
Originally posted by 98_HO_Contour:
So with using a ~50HP dry ZEX shot do you have to get a flip chip programed or will the kit cover everything ok? Also, do I have a return or returnless on my early 98 standard duratec? I don't have much money to spend and I want a little extra umph with a press of a button.
with just a 50 shot no chip is needed. you have a return style, and all i would do is change out the plugs for some NGK TR55's coppers and role like that.
Actually, ZEX recomends a 2* timing retard for a 50 shot, a 35 shot however, does not recquire a timing retard.
Robert
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I didn't want to start another post since my question basically falls under this topic. I have been toying with the idea of a turbo for my car but I really do'nt have the time to spend on that project or the desire to drop $6k into it either. So now I am looking into nitrous. Sounds like a pretty easy install which doesn't require much modification to my car other than different plugs. Couple quick questions though....from the looks of it, ZEX makes generic kits to fit all vehicles depending on the engine size, is that true or do they make a kit specially for the Contour SVT? I saw some kits on ebay for a little less than what ZEX sells them for, so is there any reason not to get a kit from ebay so long as it is new? Also, I read some things about changing the injectors out...is that necessary or just an option to get more power? Also, do you have to change out the ECU to accomodate a nitrous system or does the kit come with everything you need to use it? One more thing....I have a 98 SVT so I believe it has a return type fuel pump, but I have a few modifications that I want to make sure will still work with a nitrous system. So far I have a sho-shop, catless y-pipe, optimized TB, intake (heatshield with open filter and BAT inlet pipe), and a Superchip. BTW what does it cost to refill a bottle of nitrous and where can that be done? Sorry to drop so many questions but I am new to forced induction.
98' Contour SVT
#607 of 6535
05' Mazda 6s
Audio/Visual enthusiast because it's one of the many things I went through 4 years of hell for
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Originally posted by bullion:
I didn't want to start another post since my question basically falls under this topic. I have been toying with the idea of a turbo for my car but I really do'nt have the time to spend on that project or the desire to drop $6k into it either. So now I am looking into nitrous. Sounds like a pretty easy install which doesn't require much modification to my car other than different plugs. Couple quick questions though....from the looks of it, ZEX makes generic kits to fit all vehicles depending on the engine size, is that true or do they make a kit specially for the Contour SVT? I saw some kits on ebay for a little less than what ZEX sells them for, so is there any reason not to get a kit from ebay so long as it is new? Also, I read some things about changing the injectors out...is that necessary or just an option to get more power? Also, do you have to change out the ECU to accomodate a nitrous system or does the kit come with everything you need to use it? One more thing....I have a 98 SVT so I believe it has a return type fuel pump, but I have a few modifications that I want to make sure will still work with a nitrous system. So far I have a sho-shop, catless y-pipe, optimized TB, intake (heatshield with open filter and BAT inlet pipe), and a Superchip. BTW what does it cost to refill a bottle of nitrous and where can that be done? Sorry to drop so many questions but I am new to forced induction.
82011 = ZEX dry kit part #
82021 = ZEX wet kit part #
No need to swap ECU's. You'll want to get a chip or Xcal2 to switch programs for nitrous and N/A. It'll need to have some timing pulled, depending on the shot you want to run.
Ebay is a good place to find these kits. Just put in the part#'s I gave you into the search line, and the kits will come up automatically.
A 10# bottle will cost in the $35-45 range to fill, depending on the rates in your area. Look at the $45 range just to be safe, as a lot of places charge ~$4/lb. You'll want to call around to speed shops in your area to see if they can fill your bottle.
And before you ask, purge valves are for show, and not really needed on these small 50-75 shots. I suggest getting a bottle warmer and a bottle blanket for optimum nitrous pressure. A nitrous gauge would be a good idea, along with a blow down tube on the bottle. If you've got the money, a remote bottle opener would be nice!
Mark
2000 Black CSVT
3.0L Hybrid - 206fwhp & 195fwtq
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If I had it, I could get N2O locally for $2.50/lb. cause Im cool like that. Actually, thats just because of a certain state wide car enthusiast forum.
#4559 of 6535 born on Feb 17, 1998
Black 1998.5 CSVT
FOR SALE [cleaning house]: SVT rear swaybar. Reasonable offer and its yours!
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How long could I expect a bottle to last? I'm sure this has been brought up before, but wouldn't the long term effects of running nitrous decrease the life of your engine?
98' Contour SVT
#607 of 6535
05' Mazda 6s
Audio/Visual enthusiast because it's one of the many things I went through 4 years of hell for
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Originally posted by bullion:
How long could I expect a bottle to last? I'm sure this has been brought up before, but wouldn't the long term effects of running nitrous decrease the life of your engine?
Its the same affect a turbo or s/c has; however it is a more maintenance type F/I. the number of passes depends on the size of the motor / shot you run. Most likely probably 10-15 passes.
Ryan
Trollin!
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So you are saying that the effects of using nitrous would be similar to that of a turbo which really doesn't threaten the life of engines, correct?
98' Contour SVT
#607 of 6535
05' Mazda 6s
Audio/Visual enthusiast because it's one of the many things I went through 4 years of hell for
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Originally posted by bullion:
So you are saying that the effects of using nitrous would be similar to that of a turbo which really doesn't threaten the life of engines, correct?
No, that's not what I'm saying. All FI are similar in the sense that they are shoving extra air into the motor. Its how its done. ALL power adders need an appropriate tune (key factor). Nitrous is probably the hardest on engine parts then all three (N2O, T/C, or S/C) power adders out there and requires more preventative maintenance (checking plugs, solenoid filters, etc) than the other two FIs. There is going to be added wear on all FI engines internals regardless. People who don't know the repercussions or want something that they can forget about after install shouldn't play with the bottle.
Ryan
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Any form of FI can ruin an engine if not properly set up and tuned! A turbo or S/C can toast an engine just as fast as N2O if they were not set up properly.
N2O has a bad rep. from idiots who think they can just spray without taking the necessary precautions like realistic shot sizes, new plugs, timing, maybe injectors, tuning, etc. etc. Turbo and S/C kits *generally* come with the parts required to run safely, so it seems like there is less to do to make them "safe." N2O kits need a bit more responsibility on the user end, and many people just skip that part.
Bottom line, any form of FI can be safe if the necessary precautions are taken. You can run hundreds of N2O tanks through an engine if you 1) use a shot that that engine can realisticly handle 2) make sure you use it at the proper times (no 1st gear, no low RPMs, etc.) 3) TUNE TUNE TUNE!
With all that said, if you want boost every time you step on the gas, then N2O is probably not for you. Refills arent cheap, and as it was said, a 10 lb. tank usually lasts 10-15 runs, depending on the shot size. If you use it constantly, you may as well just throw your money out the window as you drive along.
#4559 of 6535 born on Feb 17, 1998
Black 1998.5 CSVT
FOR SALE [cleaning house]: SVT rear swaybar. Reasonable offer and its yours!
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Well said Chris. I've had my nitrous kit for what, 5 months now and have only put 3 bottles through it. Two of them were doing testing/tuning to find out the limitations of it, and the third was on a low setting just to be safe. I still don't have all of the bugs worked out, but that doesn't have to do with the kit itself. The big thing is tuning, and a close second is moderation. It's cheaper up front to install the nitrous kit, but can get expensive if you can't decipher when you should and shouldn't be spraying.
Mark
2000 Black CSVT
3.0L Hybrid - 206fwhp & 195fwtq
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