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My daughter�s 96 Zetec has been over heating. Did a flush, changed the thermostat, etc. No hot air out of the interior heat so figure it is the water pump. The interior heat will come on intermittently. When it does the temp gage goes down. The car is definitely over heating as steam coming out of overflow. Many hours later pull the engine apart and removed the water pump and looks fine. Am I missing something before I change the water pump and spend the many hours required to put it back together?
Rich S
1998 SVT
1995 Contour 2.5 MTX 215K miles Son's car(dead and buried)
1997 Contour 2.0 ATX
1998 Contour 2.5 ATX
2004 Tauras Wagon 3.0 Duratec
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Are the radiator fans coming on? And you might also want to check if the radiator is plugged.
"Always do the cheap and easy ones first."
1996 V6 ATX 96K miles
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Hard-core CEG\'er
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Backflush the heater and radiator, also maybe replace the pressure cap. I would change the pump, if it is plastic impeller, impeller could spin on the shaft when hot. The head gasket could be bad, but the heater should still work as far as I know. Cooling fans are trouble, easy test see if it comes on with a/c on. Then see if it comes on with warmup "m" or so on the normal scale.
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Both fan speeds come on. I plan to back flush as much as I can and replace the water pump. I am also of the theory that the impeller is slipping on the shaft when hot, that is why the heat sometimes works. What a pain to get the water pump out. Then got the wrong water pump, so watched football yesterday. Hope to finish tonight.
Rich S
1998 SVT
1995 Contour 2.5 MTX 215K miles Son's car(dead and buried)
1997 Contour 2.0 ATX
1998 Contour 2.5 ATX
2004 Tauras Wagon 3.0 Duratec
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Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 183
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OK It was not the water pump. The system was flushed with and with out the thermastat through the hose near the radiator on the passenger side. This is the heater hose.
So every thing is fine for the first 10-15 minutes. Heat works and temp is stable. After that it acts like there is no flow. Temp gage goes up and the interior heat blows cold. If I rev the engine the flow seems to pick up and the heat gets hot and the temp goes dowm. The drive belt is less than a year old and I put on a new tenioer. Belt seems tight.
I am confused. When the engine gets hot something seems to clog the water flow. Any ideas?
Rich S
1998 SVT
1995 Contour 2.5 MTX 215K miles Son's car(dead and buried)
1997 Contour 2.0 ATX
1998 Contour 2.5 ATX
2004 Tauras Wagon 3.0 Duratec
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Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 5,345
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Originally posted by Tony2005:
... And you might also want to check if the radiator is plugged.
"Always do the cheap and easy ones first."
1996 V6 ATX 96K miles
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Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 183
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One of the first things I did was dumpp water through the top hose of the radiator. Seemeed to flow fine. The part I do not understand is that the interior heat goes away. If I read the diagrams on the water flow right, the water pump pushes the water out of the block in to the thermastat housing. With the thermastat closed the water goes through the heater core. With the thermastat open it goes to both the heater core and the radiator. So if the radiator was clogged I should still get heat into the heater core.
Rich S
1998 SVT
1995 Contour 2.5 MTX 215K miles Son's car(dead and buried)
1997 Contour 2.0 ATX
1998 Contour 2.5 ATX
2004 Tauras Wagon 3.0 Duratec
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,456
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See if a hose collapses. The bottom hose maybe. The heat may drop a bit if the thermostat opens and lets the water into the radiator. The cooling fan should trigger and lower the temp, then it should cycle warmer, fan on, cooler, fan off warm again etc. to regulate the temp. You will see coolant gurgle a bit in the reserve tank when the thermostat opens up.
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If the head gasket is leaking combustion into the cooling system, the resulting air pockets can block flow. Revving the motor can sometimes move the air and there will be flow again. This could explain your overheating and heat problem. Since a head gasket is not exactly unheard of in these vehicles, you may want to get it checked.
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Originally posted by branchingout:
If the head gasket is leaking combustion into the cooling system, the resulting air pockets can block flow. Revving the motor can sometimes move the air and there will be flow again. This could explain your overheating and heat problem. Since a head gasket is not exactly unheard of in these vehicles, you may want to get it checked.
Here is a cheap quick way to test.
Fill antifreeze to the brim on recovery tank (leave cap off). Remove all spark plug wires. Remove all but one spark plug and have someone crank the engine. If the antifreeze bubbles over, there is leak from that portion of the engine (or cylinder). If not, go to the next cylinder, and then the next.... Note, it could be more than one area or more than one cylinder. Good luck.
"Always do the cheap and easy ones first."
1996 V6 ATX 96K miles
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