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How loud are autox pads supposed to be?
I put hawk autox pads on the front and street pads on the rear of my escort and is insanely loud when braking, though it does stop great. Just wondering if something is wrong or not?
98.5 SVT
91 Escort GT (almost sold)
96 ATX Zetec (i brake to watch you swerve)
FS: SVT rear sway bar
WTB: Very cheap beater
CEG Dragon Run - October 13-15
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Did you really take the time to grease and clean everything when you put them on, and bed them in properly? A good brake job involves more than just slapping pads on. Not implying you didn't, just asking. My first time was horribly squeaky as well.
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Joined: May 2000
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Might have a high metallic content. Could also need a lot of heat to work best.
-'96 SE MTX 3L
-'98 SVT 1,173 of 6,535
-'05 Mazda 6s, loaded, g/f's ride
-Need a 96-00 manual on CD? PM or email me
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Joined: Sep 2000
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"Absolut Rara."
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"Absolut Rara."
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noise is common for high friction pads. Much of the OEM development work on brakes is to get rid of all that noise by changing all the natural frequencies of the parts.
Aftermarket pad companies do less than 1/10th of what OEMs do to get rid of noise, and "race" pad makers typically do virtually nothing for noise, except the crappy grease to put on the back of the pad.
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Isn't there a triangle that the pads typically fall into? Being "Quiet", "Perfomance", "Low dust"? So performance pads would typically be more dusty and noisy, where OEM's might be on the quiet side?
morbid
2000 Contour SVT (black)
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Joined: Sep 2000
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"Absolut Rara."
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"Absolut Rara."
Joined: Sep 2000
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Originally posted by morbid:
Isn't there a triangle that the pads typically fall into? Being "Quiet", "Perfomance", "Low dust"? So performance pads would typically be more dusty and noisy, where OEM's might be on the quiet side?
Not really that simple. OEM pads are only as quiet as they are (and usually, but not always, low dust) because of extensive work on component natural frequencies, and stopping vibration transmission through components. Aftermarket companies, whether performance oriented or not, simply don't have that luxury of making design changes to anything but the pads themselves.
I will say that more aggressive linings (pad material) will virtually always be higher dusting, either actual pad dust, or rotor dust.
Honestly, brake pad material compounding is almost a black art, even still. There is all sorts of different materials that can be used for different things, and each one interacts with different materials differently, and then they all react differently depending on the mixing process for the compound.
Another aspect is the variation of the material properties from pad to pad from the same manufacturer. The variation in aftermarket pads is HUGE, because there is no watchdog that ensures how tightly each pad meets the original design intent. Where OEM has to worry about the NHTSA coming and picking any car at random off a dealer lot and running the Federal brake tests (FMVSS135 or FMVSS105 depending ont he vehicle) and if it got a bad batch of pads, that automaker is in a HUGE world of hurt. So, OEMs keep pad material properties under pretty tight control from thier suppliers.
ok, enough of the brake pad lessons, lol.
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Originally posted by Auto-X Fil:
Did you really take the time to grease and clean everything when you put them on, and bed them in properly? A good brake job involves more than just slapping pads on. Not implying you didn't, just asking. My first time was horribly squeaky as well.
I greased the back of the pads. I didn't grease the bolts on the front calipers but did the rears since I also replaced the rear calipers (one was seizing). I sorta bedded them in. Bedding didn't matter too much, since this weekend they're really gonna get bedded in over and over and over and over (hopefully).
98.5 SVT
91 Escort GT (almost sold)
96 ATX Zetec (i brake to watch you swerve)
FS: SVT rear sway bar
WTB: Very cheap beater
CEG Dragon Run - October 13-15
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Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 93
CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
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Originally posted by Kremithefrog:
Originally posted by Auto-X Fil:
Did you really take the time to grease and clean everything when you put them on, and bed them in properly? A good brake job involves more than just slapping pads on. Not implying you didn't, just asking. My first time was horribly squeaky as well.
I greased the back of the pads. I didn't grease the bolts on the front calipers but did the rears since I also replaced the rear calipers (one was seizing). I sorta bedded them in. Bedding didn't matter too much, since this weekend they're really gonna get bedded in over and over and over and over (hopefully).
My CSVT has new calipers, SS brake hoses, KVR slotted and drilled rotors w/ KVR CF pads [no shims at all], went light on the grease [cars from the factory don't have grease slopped all over everything], followed the break-in guide lines. Great stopping power and I've never had a problem with noise. 
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I was light on the grease as well. O well, it stops great. Co-worker (mechanic, I work at a tire shop) drove it and said it's all good, just noisy. I don't mind the noise, but I'm sure when I fly up on people and stop suddenly but with all that noise, it probably scares them.
98.5 SVT
91 Escort GT (almost sold)
96 ATX Zetec (i brake to watch you swerve)
FS: SVT rear sway bar
WTB: Very cheap beater
CEG Dragon Run - October 13-15
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Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 337
CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
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I'm not sure exactly what "Hawk Autocross pads" are. There is no such listing that I know of.
My guess is that they are HP+ compound. Good for AX as they have good cold/low temp bite.
Try some HPS compound if you want them quieter.
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