Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications Transaxle CD4E PUMP SHAFT

I just ordered a remanufactured CD4E for my 98 Contour SE 2.5L. The rebuilder's documentation states that I must use the "pump shaft" from the old ATX. I have not yet pulled the unit and I won't receive the new unit for about a week. I would like to know what to expect before I pull the unit so I can be prepared for the task. I assume the "pump shaft" in question is the oil pump drive shaft. Can anyone confirm that? Also, does anyone know what is involved in pulling the "pump shaft" from the old unit and installing it in the new unit? Is any disassembly required? Are any special tools required? Any other helpful tips would be greatly appreciated.

THANKS!

It's a six sided "rod" that's very light and about 2 feet long ... you can buy one new from the dealer for like $15. Once you remove the TC, the pump shaft will be sticking out of the input shaft. It's what the TC connects to. It simply rides inside the input shaft and slots into the oil pump on one end and into the turbine on the TC.

Fastcougar, Thanks for the information. I wanted to know what I was facing before I pull the ATX.

THANKS AGAIN,

NORM

TIP

When you place the new torque converter (I hope your using a new torque converter) over the turbine shaft, you need to work the torque converter around until it seats completly on the shaft, it will fall in place a couple of times until it is seated. Once it is seated, when you turn the torque converter (with atx pointed up and you are placing the torque converter from above) you may hear a grinding noise when it is turned. This is an indication that it is seated fully. When you connect the atx to engine, and then bolt the torque converter, it will pull out some from the turnbine shaft and thus clear the splines you were rubbing against...

Also, check your flywheel, it the teeth are ground down a bit I would replace it. You can get a new one from O'Reilly Auto Parts for around 70 dollars. Also I would replace the rear engine seal.

I would also replace the atx drivers side fender mount. They have a tendency to sag and allow the case to ride against the frame allowing it to crack and/or leak.



Bob

Bob, Thanks for the tips. Yes, I am replacing the torque converter and the rear oil seal. I will inspect the flywheel and replace if necessary.

THANKS AGAIN,

NORM

BTRAUTMAN, You recommended replacing the rear engine seal. When I searched for a seal, I found rubber and teflon. Which is better, or, is there something else out there that is better than either of the above?

THANKS,

NORM

I would recomend the new side mount as well as filling it and the other two mounts. makes it feel much better. McMasterCarr.com I beleive. I used the 90a hard stuff and all I can say is it made a hugh didference in the feel of the powertrain, NVH is not much worse but the whole powertrain stays put and puts the power right to the ground

Are there any special tricks to seating the new torque converter? I cannot get it to seat fully. I pulled the pump shaft out to see if that was what was stopping it but the torque converter still would not slip all the way down onto the ATX shaft. According to my manual, I need to get it about 3/8 inch farther onto the shaft. THANKS!

No, just keep at it ... you are not only getting the pump shaft aligned, but the input shaft as well since it's splined, getting it lined up is more of a chore. Best way is to rotate back and forth and wiggle gently until it drops into place.

Are you hearing a click noise when you turn it? If so, it is on all the way. Once you connect to motor and then pull converter toward flywheel you will no longer hear the clicking.

I'd use the standard Ford Seal. Teflon is good, but it will gouge the crank over time -- the rubber seal sometimes does this but not too bad. Teflon would be worse.

Bob