Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums General Troubleshooting Doctor, whats wrong?

Here are the symtoms:
-Car seems to run, but gets crappy gas mileage and smells rich after running
-At night when the headlights are turned on, they dim, the rpms fall, then creep back up and the lights brigthen.
-Same symtom at night with lights on, using power windows, lights dim and rpms fall, then climb back up
same symtom turning on rear defroster
-At higher rpms 5K + Battery lights blinks
-no CEL
-75K 98 Duratec ATX


My guess is the alternator is dieing slowly. The drop in rpms is due to poor ignition from use of electricity on accessories(headlights). The ECU reads drop in RPMS and opens the IAC to compensate. Smell comes from unburned gas because of poor spark.

Would this be correct? or some other possibility

The grasshopper has become a Master. Yes, my money is on the alternator. But you may want to check for loose wiring too (from battery to alternator, and battery to ground). In addition, test battery and alternator voltage.
Battery test. Engine off, lights on for one minute, voltage should be 12 to 12.5.
Alternator test. Engine running, voltage should be 14 to 14.5. Good luck.

You sound like a Doctor.


You're good!! Look in to either replacing/checking your Alternator, or checking the wiring. Perhaps do the wiring fix recently posted to cure the "flickering lights" symptoms on those with a known good alternator.

The other alternative could be a BAD IAC, causing rpm fluctuation... the rpms get so low that the alternator is now not putting out enough voltage, hence the flashing lights.

Of course, the only thing that kinks that is the flickering charge light at 5K+


Ray

Yeah I was going to see if Advanced auto would check the voltage for the battery. Its a new battery not more then 6-8 months old. and the terminals are one tight because I've had one slip off before(terminal was bent to crap when I bought the car). Is there a how-to floating around for the alternator? and with pictures. lol pictures are good.

As for your post Ray I thought it might had been the IAC too at first, but the problem is getting worse. I don't want to get stuck this winter. Thats the main cause of getting it done now, and the fact that concert garage is only getting colder till May.

There certainly is.. You can go to Duratec Maintenance then click the FAQ to find it.

Or I can email you a PDF of it, if you wanted to print it out, etc. I made that FAQ specifically because that is the FIRST thing people were always asking for.

If you are going to have the ALT tested, test it under load.
You can do a simple test on your own:

TEST ALTERNATOR:
Start the car. Test voltage at battery while running: 13.8-14.2

Test BATTERY:
Shut off car. Remove SURFACE CHARGE (turn on headlights and interiors for 60 seconds) then measure battery voltage with the car off..
12V or higher.

Ray

Haha sweet. Email would be nice. Titanthedragon@yahoo.com

Its on the wa.. 1.8Mb PDF


Enjoy.


Ray

Already have it! Thanks Ray. Now to get the tools(good reason to buy tools, haha) and the alternator. Any recommendations? If not I'll probably go through advanced.

Grrr. I talked to my father last night. He ran my Tour down to a garage wednesday and had the alternator tested. He told me the volts were 14 and they dropped slighty when the headlights were on. The guy told my father I needed to remove all the extra wires from my terminals! This meaning the ones that are attached to stock ground. What a freakin idiot. The only other thing attached are 2 interior lights that are blue, but use actualy interior lights with a transparent blue plastic shell.

I want to check the IAC tonight when I get back from college. Do I need the IAC gasket? or can I make one out of gasket material purchasable at Advanced?