Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums General Troubleshooting it just died

i checked the codes and i came up with a 332 2 times , 123 and 211, if i did this correctly. now today after the car sat overnight it again started right up and ran till it got to operating temp i would guess and then quit again and wouldn't start back up.i changed the plugs and it runs much smoother. tell me what you think as i will also try to make a trip to the parts store in the morn to get it scanned. thanks , scott

Welcome. 332 EGR (do the suck test and clean EGR). 123 TPS (clean the TB to see if it will help). 211 PCM signal (erratic or faulty, check wiring and connection).

Edit.
Ray's detailed suck test.


0401
EGR Flow insufficient

The EGR is the "UFO looking device on the top of the engine's UIM (silver round device at the back driver's side of the top of the engine. The EGR passages flow from the EGR, in to the side of the Throttle body.

I would suggest the following:
Remove (and reinstall) the negative cable of your battery (or pull fuses 4 & 11 for the PCM's KAM (memory)

TEST YOUR EGR:
(remove the green vacuum hose from the top, being careful as it is brittle, and applying a vacuum (suck on it! lol) to see if the car stumbles while running. this indicates a properly operating EGR.

Does it work properly?

NO:
Replace the EGR

YES
Purchase a TB gasket, and remove the air plenum (rubber accordion tube) then remove the TB. Clean the EGR passage (small cut-out in the outer edge of the TB's mating surface) really well, install a new gasket and re-attach the TB.

If the passages are not dirty, or crud-filled, then look at replacing the DPFE(Differential Pressure Feedback for the EGR)

thanks for the quick post. what is the suck test? and where do i find the egr.

Above as edited for EGR suck test. Below is from the Duratec Maintenance FAQ UIM/LIM rebuilding. You will see a picture of the fore finger next to the UFO silver lookng thing (EGR). In addition, it will also have the TB at the picture below it. You do need new gaskets for both of them. Good luck.

http://www.contour.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=v6maint&Number=931756&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=186&fpart=1

Edit.
TB cleaning
http://www.contour.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=v6maint&Number=337774&page=&view=&sb=5&o=&fpart=all&vc=1


And gap the spark plugs to 0.054 inch.

i will check this in the morning as the car runs well when it's cold. where will i find these fuses? thanx, scott

I don't know what the failure rate of Hall effects sensors on Contours is, but if my motorcycle did this, that's what I'd be looking at. Heat will cause the sensor to expand, open the crack, fail the sensor and kill the ignition. When it cools down, the crack closes up and the sensor works again. It can be checked by measuring resistance while heating it up. If the resistance changes, it's a bad sensor.

just an update on this problem.i pulled the #5 6 plugs and have no spark. can the egr cause this or should i be looking at something else such as the coil pack or something else ignition related? thanx again for all the info given, scott

sorry to keep posting,but i am trying to exhaust all possible solutions. so far no one has mentioned anything about the control module . i checked the coil pack from info that i got from autozone site for the ohms and all was well. a mechanic friend told me to change the control module but this is an expensive part and dont want to part with the cash if i don't need to. when i went to get a crank position sensor, they have to order and i was told i need a special driver, is this correct and is there anywhere on the site with a how to for this? thanks for all, again, scott

Regular old bolt to remove.

From Ford CD.
Crankshaft Position Sensor
Removal
1. Disconnect battery ground cable.
2. Raise vehicle on a hoist (or jack up and put on jack stands).
3. On 2.5L engine-equipped vehicles, remove splash shield from RH front fender apron.
4. Disconnect the fuel charging wiring or engine control sensor wiring (depending upon application) from the crankshaft position sensor (CKP sensor).
5. Remove crankshaft position sensor retaining bolt and remove crankshaft position sensor.

Installation
1. Make sure crankshaft position sensor mounting surface is clean. If equipped, make sure that the crankshaft position sensor O-ring is in proper location on crankshaft position sensor.
2. CAUTION: Do not overtighten crankshaft position sensor retaining bolt or damage to the crankshaft position sensor may occur.
Position crankshaft position sensor and install retaining bolt. On 2.0L engine-equipped vehicles, tighten retaining bolt to 6-9 N-m (53-80 lb-in). On 2.5L engine-equipped vehicles, tighten retaining bolt to 8-12 N-m (71-106 lb-in).
3. Properly route fuel charging wiring or engine control sensor wiring (depending upon application) and connect electrical connector to crankshaft position sensor.
4. On 2.5L engine-equipped vehicles, install splash shield. Tighten retaining screws securely.
5. Lower vehicle.
6. Connect battery ground cable.

Edit. Picture compliments of Chongo.

Originally posted by chongo:

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See if the wires harness is lose. Tough to test it as the PID's on the service cd need the car running.
Autozone sells them for $13.99
CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR
1998 FORD CONTOUR WELLS SU292 3 MO $13.99

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