Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums General Troubleshooting won't start - no fuel

My daughter has a 98 Contour, 2.0 Zetec. It cranks fine, but won't start. Every once in a blue moon it sounds like it "fires", but never more than (probably) one cylinder. I've replaced the fuel pump, her step-dad replaced the filter. I've disconnected the line to the doo-dad on the firewall behind the throttle body and do not have any fuel going there. Can someone tell me what that doo-dad is? Could this be the pressure regulator? It has a line from the filter, and goes directly to the throttle body, and has one electrical connection on the engine side. The fuel pump shut-off appears to be reset. The fuel pump comes on with the ignition, but sounds like it only runs for a few seconds. Any and all help is appreciated. I'm a fairly technical guy, but without a great schematic of the fuel system, and electrical system, I'm reduced to easter-egging this problem

Thanks,
Alex

the whirr for a second is the priming of the system.. tells you the pump works... as does the pressure regulator.


Check spark. (verify spark at the plugs)
Check your coil pack

Make sure the timing is correct on the car.

A little pre-problem history would help.. it happened SUDDENLY or what?


ray

The car developed irratic power, surged some and then would run fine. We'd had wet weather, so I advised her to spray the wires with WD-40 to see if it improved the running. It did not. The irratic power and surges continued for about a week, then it would not start at all. I'm very surprised to not be getting any fuel. I have not checked the installation of the filter, but her step-dad is fairly mechanical and I am trusting he installed it correctly. When I watch the throat of the throttle body, I can see a very slight mist, but it is rare. As I said, the thing tries to fire, or at least sounds like it, but only hits one cylinder, and even this is rare. I'll check the spark in the morning, but I still don't understand what could be stopping the fuel. I'll also install a new filter myself, for good measure and confidence.

Clean MAF sensor, IAC, EGR and Throttle body. Change air filter (and check to make sure fuel filter is correctly installed.)

MAF
http://www.contour.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=zetecmaint&Number=989728&fpart=&PHPSESSID=

The spark plug wiring order on the coil pack for an automatic 2.0 (4 cylinder) Zetec

Firewall
Engine 1 2 3 4 ... Coil 1 3
Radiator ............. ....4 2


IAC cleaning
from Ray's UIM/LIM how to in Duratec Maintenance how to.

"Replacing the IAC gasket:
(From IAC faq)
Over time, the IAC (Idle Air Control) valve becomes sticky due to buildup from the EGR and PCV systems. It can stick partially open such that idle quality is adversely affected, and engine RPM's will not drop below 1500. For a while, blipping the throttle will restore normal idle, but this only works for so long.

The fix is to remove the IAC valve by unbolting the two 8mm bolts that hold it on and disconnected the wiring plug. If you are careful enough, replacement of the gasket will not be necessary. The gasket costs less than US $1.00, so it is no tragedy if you destroy it. Once the valve is off, spray it out with some carb/intake cleaner and make sure any gunky residue is gone. Reattach, and you are done. It is a lot cheaper than a new IAC, which runs around US $70. Note: Ford claims the IAC cannot be cleaned, but this is not true in my experience." Ray.

Location of the IAC.

"It's on the back side of the intake plenum under the throttle body area." DESIGN.

I looked at the Haynes manual and the Zetec IAC valve is located next to the starter. Below are the steps from the 1996 Ford CD to remove it (assuming it is the same as a 1998).


Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve


Removal

1. Disconnect battery ground cable

2. Remove the air cleaner outlet tube and resonator assembly.
3. Disconnect the main chassis vacuum line.

4. Disconnect the ignition coil and radio interference capacitor wiring.

5. Remove the fuel line bracket retaining bolt.

6. On 2.0L engine equipped vehicles, raise vehicle on hoist.
7.
7. Disconnect the engine control sensor wiring or fuel charging wiring (depending upon application) from the idle air control valve (IAC valve) at the idle air control valve connector.

8. On 2.5L engine equipped vehicles, remove retainer for engine control sensor wiring from the upper retaining stud bolt.

9. Remove the two idle air control valve retaining bolts or stud bolt (depending upon application).

10. Remove the idle air control valve and idle air control valve gasket.


Installation

1. Note: If scraping is necessary, be careful not to damage idle air control valve or intake manifold idle air control valve gasket surfaces or drop material into intake manifold.

Clean idle air control valve gasket mating surfaces.

2. To install idle air control valve, reverse Removal procedure. Tighten the fuel line bracket bolt to 8-12 N-m (71-106 lb-in).

3. On 2.5L engine equipped vehicles, tighten the retaining bolt and stud bolt to 8-12

4. On 2.0L engine equipped vehicles, tighten the idle air control valve retaining bolts to 8-11 N-m (71-97 lb-in).

TB cleaning
http://www.contour.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=v6maint&Number=337774&page=&view=&sb=5&o=&fpart=all&vc=1

These are all things I can do, and after 150K miles, probably should be done any way, but will any of these tings stop fuel delivery to the engine compartment. When I disconnect the fuel line go into the doo-dad (still mystery what it is, maybe the pressure regulator?), there is absolutely no fuel, not a drop. Is there anything between the filter and the engine bay that I might have overlooked?

Eureka...almost. I found the line outlet line at the filter was kinked. I won't tell you my daughter's step-dad's name, but I'm embarassed to say that he's the Manager of Maintenance where I work. I guess those that can't do teach, those that can't teach supervise...

Now then, I am still not getting fuel delivery to the engine. After straightening the kink, I tried priming the system, about 20 times, and never got a drop of fuel. When I got the wise idea to blow air through the line from the engine bay to the filter, I uncoupled the filter outlet and got a healthy (or unhealthy!) spray of fuel. The line pressurizes out of the filter. I disconnected the fuel line in the engine bay where it first enters the bay, right hand side against the fire wall. I then blew air through the line to the filter outlet and got some gas and then good air flow. The old filter was probably the original. Could it have 'broken down' and passed filter media into the line? I hand traced the line to see if it had other kinks and found none. Could the original kink in the filter outlet (soft hose, not the steel tubing) be internally kinked? It looks fine from the outside. Am I not priming it long enough?

Here's the pictures of the mysterious doo-dad. Any guess what it is? I've sent them to the two guys already helping me with this problem, not really sure where I can post them to show everyone else...

Again, your help is greatly appreciated.

Alex

Go ahead and laugh, it won't be the first time...the line I was checking for fuel turns out to be a direct RETURN line to the tank. I won't pretend to know what its for, but it clearly goes from the base of the throttle body, to the doo-dad on the firewall, and then to the tank. I corrected the kink in the fuel line from the filter and voila'...I have fuel to the fuel rack. The injectors are all firing and looked pretty good. I checked the spark at the plugs, not as "blue" as I'd like to see. The plugs are getting dampened by the injectors, so I'll try new plugs next. Double checked the firing order, its good. Will keep the board informed of what I find. I'm sure it will be something v-e-r-y obvious since I've checked all the goofy stuff first.

Alex

linky

Following that link takes you to the UIM rebuild for a Duratec. the picture located furter down in the how-to(direct link below) shows what is the EVR. The pictures you asked about seem to be showing that same thing on your car (only it is a Zetec... but still..)





Anyway.. there is your mystery doo-dad you wanted to know about re: your email.


HTH

Ray

Just re-read your thread.. you were looking for fuel from the hose that goes to the EVR?

That is a vacuum hose, IE no fuel..

vacuum is built off the intake mnifold, and fed through the evr, then to the EGR. the EVR controls how much vacuum to pass along to the EGR.


Ray