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#1388108 09/16/05 08:43 PM
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Considering the FSVT brake upgrade over the winter, and wanted to verify a few things.

All I need is the FSVT rotors, calipers/pads and spacers, correct?

Anyone have any pictures of what they used for spacers, and how they have them installed?

Are there any cross drilled and/or slotted rotors sold for the FSVT?

Is everyone buying their brake components from Bill Jenkins? Or is there another parts source that's cheaper?

Thanks!!

Mark


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#1388109 09/16/05 08:52 PM
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I believe you just use washers for spacers, sounds like you are on the right track though. If you do go through with it, let me know your impressions.


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#1388110 09/16/05 08:57 PM
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Will do.

Mark


2000 Black CSVT 3.0L Hybrid - 206fwhp & 195fwtq
#1388111 09/16/05 09:00 PM
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I used hardened AN washers for my spacers. Any good fastener shop will have them. Aircraft shops will have them as well. you need 3mm worth for each bolt, usually two washers. The spacers get placed between the knuckle and caliper where the mounting bolt passes through.

You also need longer bolts. do a search, I believe shaggy posted up the p/n that I dug up for him some time ago.

Don't waste your money on drilled rotors. They don't cool any better, and will require replacement sooner than plain or slotted rotors. Also, both drilled and slotted rotors will increase pad wear. If you must do something to make the rotors look cool, stick with slotted, otherwise, a plain faced rotor is your best choice for a street car.

As far as cheapest, not sure, as I sourced mine through a friend, but Bill J. has historically been one of the best prices around on most an OEM parts.

Also, when you order your calipers, make sure they are "loaded" unless you plan to run aftermarket FSVT pads from the get go.


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#1388112 09/16/05 09:08 PM
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i'm doing them too....i plan on sending bill the se calipers,and then selling the e0 csvt set i have to help recoup the costs..


"Youth ages, immaturity is outgrown, ignorance can be educated, and drunkenness sobered, but STUPID lasts forever."-Aristophanes. --93 pgt,headers,intake,borla=14.9 1/4mile
#1388113 09/16/05 09:30 PM
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Thanks Rara! I get employee cost on all of my Ford parts, but figured it wouldn't hurt to see if people were finding them even cheaper yet.

I'll search for the p/n's Shaggy posted, and start getting some price quotes.

I'll definitely be going with the loaded calipers.
You're right though, I was just going for the "bling" factor with the cross drilled look, as I don't put a ton of miles on the car, so wear isn't a huge concern for me. If they last me 20-30k miles in 2-3 years, I'm happy . Any vendors that supply the aftermarket rotors though? Either cross drilled, slotted, or both?

Do you recommend sticking with the Ford recommended brake fluid? Not going to turn this into the MTX transaxle thread, just looking for what people are running. I'll most likely be going with SS lines while I'm at it.

Thanks again!!

Mark


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#1388114 09/16/05 09:34 PM
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Ill be interested to see what this project cost pans out to, Something I may be interested in soon! Keep me posted


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#1388115 09/16/05 10:02 PM
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Just called Ford. I didn't talk to the guy I normally go through, so I don't know if he quoted me a discount or not, but:

FSVT rotors = $99.27/ea.
FSVT calipers(loaded) = $173.35/ea. w/ $70 or $75 core charge!

I'm thinking I need to start doing some research, as I'm sure I can figure a way to get this stuff cheaper than ~$550 from Ford. Not to mention the cost of the washers, bolts, fluid and optional SS lines, we're looking at close to the cost of the Baer kit! I'll keep this thread updated when I find cheaper costs on materials.

Mark


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#1388116 09/16/05 10:16 PM
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Originally posted by Y2KSVT:
Jwe're looking at close to the cost of the Baer kit!
Mark




I was going to say, "why not just use the baer kit?"

My question: what is the difference in performance between the Baer and FSVT upgrade? If the Baer is significantly better, thats the route I would go. Worth the few extra pennies. If its not a significant difference, I would just go FSVT. Maybe something to think about!

The BAT Wilwoods are reasonably priced as well. Ever think about those?


#4559 of 6535 born on Feb 17, 1998 Black 1998.5 CSVT FOR SALE [cleaning house]: SVT rear swaybar. Reasonable offer and its yours!
#1388117 09/16/05 10:26 PM
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Baer = 13" rotors and 2 piston calipers.
SVT brakes = 12" rotors and single piston calipers.

That's what I've gathered, other than price.

I'm taking Swazo's advice and looking at car-parts.com. I've come across some CHEAP parts through there!

Mark


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#1388118 09/17/05 12:16 AM
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Funk Baer, go TCE Wilwood, they are lighter and and you'll have Todd to give you customer service, they are also close in price IIRC.


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#1388119 09/17/05 12:32 AM
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you can get a set of FSVT calipers for $100 on car-part.com ....you might want to make sure they come with brackets tho.....


99 SE V6\5spd - 156 HP\157 TQ 15.166-90.84 Totaled 02/12/06 99 SVT # 1571 - 175 HP\153 TQ 14.999-91.88 Born 3/24/99 Reborn 3/18/06 Pietenpol Racing Technologies project vehicle 90 Festiva L 5spd, Blue(not for long), 103k
#1388120 09/17/05 12:48 AM
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For fluid, the Ford HD fluid is very good, and is dirt cheap. ATE blue is also very good, but a little more pricey; beyond those and you really start spending a lot of cash for fluid you don't need in a street car. Stay away from the Valvoline Synpower stuff.


Also, I'm not a huge fan of the Baer kit, if I was putting a different setup on my car (well if I didn't design my own) I'd go for the Wilwood setup from TCE, performance is great, and the support is excellent too.


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#1388121 09/17/05 01:14 AM
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Damn! I just used the Synpower, Is there a problem with using it or is the Ford stuff just better?


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#1388122 09/17/05 02:12 AM
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valvoline synpower thread
rara says it is bad and demon says it is bad


00 black/tan svt, #2052 of 2150, born 2/1/00 formerly known as my csvt "Nothing in the world is more dangerous than a sincere ignorance and conscientious stupidity." -Martin Luther King, Jr.
#1388123 09/17/05 03:25 AM
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Originally posted by JB1:
valvoline synpower thread
rara says it is bad and demon says it is bad



Actually rara says he suspects it of not keeping out moisture very well. (he had "dirty looking" fluid IIRC)

Big Jim, myself, and others have never had that problem with it. I've used it for years with great success. I do change my fluid every year to year & a half. (like you should do anyway)


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#1388124 09/17/05 04:06 AM
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Originally posted by DemonSVT:
Originally posted by JB1:
valvoline synpower thread
rara says it is bad and demon says it is bad



Actually rara says he suspects it of not keeping out moisture very well. (he had "dirty looking" fluid IIRC)

Big Jim, myself, and others have never had that problem with it. I've used it for years with great success. I do change my fluid every year to year & a half. (like you should do anyway)


sorry demon, typo, that should read not bad. i am running it currently with no problems just as i have run it in the past with no problems.


00 black/tan svt, #2052 of 2150, born 2/1/00 formerly known as my csvt "Nothing in the world is more dangerous than a sincere ignorance and conscientious stupidity." -Martin Luther King, Jr.
#1388125 09/17/05 04:06 AM
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Originally posted by Rara:
You also need longer bolts. do a search, I believe shaggy posted up the p/n that I dug up for him some time ago.






Nope. There's no need for longer bolts. There's plenty of meat left on the stockers to do the job. Do a test fit with the spacers and the stock bolts and you'll see what i mean. You'd save yourself ~$40. FWIW i've been running stock bolts for 2+ years.


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#1388126 09/17/05 06:56 PM
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The TCE kits are great [$1000-1600 max], but can be almost double the price of the Baers [$750 max] and the BAT Wilwoods [$650 max]!


#4559 of 6535 born on Feb 17, 1998 Black 1998.5 CSVT FOR SALE [cleaning house]: SVT rear swaybar. Reasonable offer and its yours!
#1388127 09/18/05 02:23 AM
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Originally posted by DemonSVT:
Originally posted by JB1:
valvoline synpower thread
rara says it is bad and demon says it is bad



Actually rara says he suspects it of not keeping out moisture very well. (he had "dirty looking" fluid IIRC)

Big Jim, myself, and others have never had that problem with it. I've used it for years with great success. I do change my fluid every year to year & a half. (like you should do anyway)




No, I said I had a very soft pedal after 2 months of it. Another friend with an S4 had almost identical results with it, and he's on the other end of the country.

The fluid didn't look dirty.


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#1388128 09/18/05 02:26 AM
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Originally posted by TGO:
Originally posted by Rara:
You also need longer bolts. do a search, I believe shaggy posted up the p/n that I dug up for him some time ago.






Nope. There's no need for longer bolts. There's plenty of meat left on the stockers to do the job. Do a test fit with the spacers and the stock bolts and you'll see what i mean. You'd save yourself ~$40. FWIW i've been running stock bolts for 2+ years.




IIRC you don't get full thread engagement through the anchor bracket that way. Will it function? sure; but is it the right way to do it? no. It's only a few bucks for the right bolts, there isn't any reason to do it halfway.


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#1388129 09/18/05 10:57 PM
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Ford should have equipped the SVT Tour with these brakes from the get go. I just did this swap like a month ago and at a cost of about $450 calipers/rotors new from Ford after returning the calipers for a core.

I reused the bolts with no problems, used 3mm thick stainless steel washers there is plenty of thread engagement with the OE bolts IMO.

Plus OE SVT wheels clear them.

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Originally posted by SVTGT350:
Plus OE SVT wheels clear them.



That is exactly what I wanted to hear. I guess I'll add that to my spring mod list.
-tropictour


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#1388131 09/19/05 02:33 AM
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Originally posted by SVTGT350:
I reused the bolts with no problems, used 3mm thick stainless steel washers there is plenty of thread engagement with the OE bolts IMO.






Thank you. When I did the swap i had 5 other CEG'ers telling me the stock bolts would be fine...i was the paranoid one.


1999 Silver Frost SVT #609 of 2760 Quaife, lightened SVT Flywheel, SPEC stage II clutch, removed resonator, k&n drop in - various other goodies too.
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I have had the Focus SVT brakes on for a long time and I open track the [censored] out of my car. I got one of the first sets back in the day from Bill @ Sentry I think, back then.

I have since been through the stock pads/rotors and am now on some Napa replacement rotors and Carbotech pads. I went through some crappy Hawk HPS's in 1 track day! They suck for the track but would make an OK street pad. The stock FSVT pad actually works well and is worth getting the caliper "loaded."

You WILL need longer bolts. I ran with the stock bolts for awhile but DID break them eventually under quite "spirited" driving (AutoX, Open Track). I upgraded to longer Metric 10.9 bolts and they have been fine since.

The FSVT brakes work great! I love them! They seem to find the limits of the tire easier as well as taking the heat much better with more surface area. I can get like 3-4 track days (16-20 20 minute + sessions) before the rotors are done and pads toast. Much better then what I got out of the stock SVT stuff! I may look into a setup custom made with Alcon calipers and Stasis 2 piece rotors. Should be intresting. Also talking to Ohlins about some one off coilovers. We'll see!


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#1388133 09/19/05 12:17 PM
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Originally posted by Y2KSVT:
Baer = 13" rotors and 2 piston calipers.
SVT brakes = 12" rotors and single piston calipers.

That's what I've gathered, other than price.

I'm taking Swazo's advice and looking at car-parts.com. I've come across some CHEAP parts through there!

Mark




Try BAT on the rotors. $50 a piece I think. Not sure what brand they are though.


-'96 SE MTX 3L -'98 SVT 1,173 of 6,535 -'05 Mazda 6s, loaded, g/f's ride -Need a 96-00 manual on CD? PM or email me
#1388134 09/19/05 12:29 PM
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Originally posted by [Email:
Chad@ForcedFed][/Email] I have had the Focus SVT brakes on for a long time and I open track the [censored] out of my car. I got one of the first sets back in the day from Bill @ Sentry I think, back then.

I have since been through the stock pads/rotors and am now on some Napa replacement rotors and Carbotech pads. I went through some crappy Hawk HPS's in 1 track day! They suck for the track but would make an OK street pad. The stock FSVT pad actually works well and is worth getting the caliper "loaded."

You WILL need longer bolts. I ran with the stock bolts for awhile but DID break them eventually under quite "spirited" driving (AutoX, Open Track). I upgraded to longer Metric 10.9 bolts and they have been fine since.

The FSVT brakes work great! I love them! They seem to find the limits of the tire easier as well as taking the heat much better with more surface area. I can get like 3-4 track days (16-20 20 minute + sessions) before the rotors are done and pads toast. Much better then what I got out of the stock SVT stuff! I may look into a setup custom made with Alcon calipers and Stasis 2 piece rotors. Should be intresting. Also talking to Ohlins about some one off coilovers. We'll see!




Its good to hear you're still interested in tracking the contour. For a while it sounded like you wanted to step up to something different. I love seeing your silver frost on thunderhill. You should keep doing it, just toss some more power at it!

At least I think thats your svt, i may be mistaken...


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Any one have pics? i am also interested in doing the FSVT brakes mainly because they clear the FSVT rims that i already have and i really dont want to add wheel spacers.

so any pics?


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Search the pics and vids section for when stazi posted up his new 19s. He has FSVT brakes (Im pretty sure he does anyway).


#4559 of 6535 born on Feb 17, 1998 Black 1998.5 CSVT FOR SALE [cleaning house]: SVT rear swaybar. Reasonable offer and its yours!
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I'd be interested to see some pics with some 16" or 17" wheels. With 19" wheels, even 12" rotors look tiny! All the pics I try to pull up from searches, are now Red X's. Anyone have pics of their FSVT brakes with 16" or 17" wheels???

Mark


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Well Stazi used to have my 18's, so if you find those you can use your imagination and subtract 1/2" on each side.


#4559 of 6535 born on Feb 17, 1998 Black 1998.5 CSVT FOR SALE [cleaning house]: SVT rear swaybar. Reasonable offer and its yours!
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Originally posted by Y2KSVT:
FSVT brakes with 17" wheels???

Mark





if you're looking to see how they fill the wheel, check out a pic of an svt focus....


99 SE V6\5spd - 156 HP\157 TQ 15.166-90.84 Totaled 02/12/06 99 SVT # 1571 - 175 HP\153 TQ 14.999-91.88 Born 3/24/99 Reborn 3/18/06 Pietenpol Racing Technologies project vehicle 90 Festiva L 5spd, Blue(not for long), 103k
#1388140 09/19/05 05:32 PM
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Originally posted by pole120:
Originally posted by Y2KSVT:
FSVT brakes with 17" wheels???

Mark





if you're looking to see how they fill the wheel, check out a pic of an svt focus....





Or that. Wow, really missed the obvious on that one!


#4559 of 6535 born on Feb 17, 1998 Black 1998.5 CSVT FOR SALE [cleaning house]: SVT rear swaybar. Reasonable offer and its yours!
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Originally posted by KingpinSVT:
Originally posted by pole120:
Originally posted by Y2KSVT:
FSVT brakes with 17" wheels???

Mark





if you're looking to see how they fill the wheel, check out a pic of an svt focus....





Or that. Wow, really missed the obvious on that one!






99 SE V6\5spd - 156 HP\157 TQ 15.166-90.84 Totaled 02/12/06 99 SVT # 1571 - 175 HP\153 TQ 14.999-91.88 Born 3/24/99 Reborn 3/18/06 Pietenpol Racing Technologies project vehicle 90 Festiva L 5spd, Blue(not for long), 103k
#1388142 09/19/05 06:02 PM
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D'oh!! This thread needs more thinking on my part!!

Mark


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Originally posted by Chad@ForcedFed:
You WILL need longer bolts. I ran with the stock bolts for awhile but DID break them eventually under quite "spirited" driving (AutoX, Open Track). I upgraded to longer Metric 10.9 bolts and they have been fine since.






im curious to know where they broke


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Just doing a little searching, and I think I've come up with the best/cheapest solution. I'd rather not rely on a junkyard sending me rotors and pads in like-new condition, but I wouldn't mind them sending me some calipers for cheap. So I think I'll just go with some calipers from car-parts.com, and order brand new rotors and pads from BAT for $139.00 for the front set!! Makes me want to put the car away for storage early, as I'm not going to worry about this until winter.

Mark


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i should have searched, damn nazis



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Awesome pic! Thanks Golden! That gives us a good idea of what they'll look like, as most of the people running aftermarket wheels are going 17". You can tell that a 16" will also clear it pretty well. I can't wait to do this upgrade!

Anyone know if any other kits will work for the rear? I know TCE has a big rotor upgrade, but is that our only option?

Mark


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The FSVT brakes totally fill the stock E1's. There is very little gap between the calipers and the wheels... a good fit.


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yea looks real nice...the 18's look ok too, but the rear = dayum!


1999 Silver Frost SVT #609 of 2760 Quaife, lightened SVT Flywheel, SPEC stage II clutch, removed resonator, k&n drop in - various other goodies too.
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Rara has verified that an E1 caliper will work (from the pinned topic) but has anyone tried using a E0 caliper on the FSVT rotors?

Originally posted by Rara:
You can use the FSVT anchor bracket with the contour caliper. The only differences from the full FSVT brake swap, is you pull the stock anchor bracket out, and slide the FSVT one into the stock caliper




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From what I've gathered, the E1 calipers will "work", but won't give as much braking surface, as they aren't as tall of a caliper as the FSVT's.

Originally posted by mtxcontour97se:
Rara has verified that an E1 caliper will work (from the pinned topic) but has anyone tried using a E0 caliper on the FSVT rotors?

Originally posted by Rara:
You can use the FSVT anchor bracket with the contour caliper. The only differences from the full FSVT brake swap, is you pull the stock anchor bracket out, and slide the FSVT one into the stock caliper







Mark


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So is the E1 caliper the same as the 2000 se sport caliper?

Originally posted by Y2KSVT:
From what I've gathered, the E1 calipers will "work", but won't give as much braking surface, as they aren't as tall of a caliper as the FSVT's.

Originally posted by mtxcontour97se:
Rara has verified that an E1 caliper will work (from the pinned topic) but has anyone tried using a E0 caliper on the FSVT rotors?

Originally posted by Rara:
You can use the FSVT anchor bracket with the contour caliper. The only differences from the full FSVT brake swap, is you pull the stock anchor bracket out, and slide the FSVT one into the stock caliper







Mark




~Crystian 2000 Se sport 2001 Lightning(Sorry!your mom cant come with us)
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Don't quote me, but I don't believe so. I would think that the SE calipers wouldn't allow for enough pad to rotor surface, as the SVT rotors are quite a bit larger than the SE.

Originally posted by GoldenTour:
So is the E1 caliper the same as the 2000 se sport caliper?

Originally posted by Y2KSVT:
From what I've gathered, the E1 calipers will "work", but won't give as much braking surface, as they aren't as tall of a caliper as the FSVT's.

Originally posted by mtxcontour97se:
Rara has verified that an E1 caliper will work (from the pinned topic) but has anyone tried using a E0 caliper on the FSVT rotors?

Originally posted by Rara:
You can use the FSVT anchor bracket with the contour caliper. The only differences from the full FSVT brake swap, is you pull the stock anchor bracket out, and slide the FSVT one into the stock caliper







Mark







Mark


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My bad! i missed it when i first read it.
it seems as though the calipers are the same, just different rotor used

From the Brakes-FAQ
What are the differences in stock front braking systems?
Calipers types(two types):
-Type A calipers are on all Contiques, Cougars, and late model SVT Contours. The pads for these calipers are thin and long compared to Type B. This caliper has two mounting brakets, one for 260mm rotors and one for 278mm rotors.
-Type B calipers are only on early model SVT Contours. The pads for these calipers are shorter and wider than Type A.
* The date in which SVT Contours switched from Type B to Type A is unclear. Some say early in the '99 MY others say in late 98.5 MY and evidence suggests it wasn't quite clear to Ford either. The best way to find out is by comparing your pads to the pics in the http://www.batinc.net Contour/Cougar catalogue.
** Which Type is better has been debated but no hard evidence has settled the dispute. Type A has a greater swept area while Type B physically covers more of the rotor. Type A does have a better pad selection.


~Crystian 2000 Se sport 2001 Lightning(Sorry!your mom cant come with us)
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Good find! I retract my previous statement then. I guess the bracket is what makes the different for the SVT and the non SVT rotors.

Mark


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rara said the stock caliper would work, but needs a different mounting bracket to make it fit over the SVT F rotor.

The cost to do that is simply not worth it, since you can get both rotors and calipers new from bill for less than $400.


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Yup close to 400

from Bill

You will need the front calipers (come with pads, brackets), Rotors, and 4 bolts. You will also need 3mm hardened washers that you can get locally.



2M5Z-2B120-AA List $173.35 Inet $128.45 Core $70.00 (calipers)

2M5Z-2B121-AA List $173.35 Inet $128.45 Core $70.00 (calipers)

2M5Z-1125-AA List $99.27 Inet $73.56 each x 2 (rotors)

W500443-S426 List $2.19 Inet $1.35 each x 4 (bolts)


S&H is about $15-20, these are HEAVY!



Bill Jenkins

Internet Sales


~Crystian 2000 Se sport 2001 Lightning(Sorry!your mom cant come with us)
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did anyone say if the eo calipers would work, the would give you more surface area than the e1's.


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Will our E1 calipers work for a core?
-tropictour

Last edited by tropictour; 09/20/05 11:11 PM.

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Originally posted by BSOELMAN:
did anyone say if the eo calipers would work, the would give you more surface area than the e1's.




So far as I know, everyone has fully swapped to the FSVT calipers to use the FSVT rotors. I only know of a single case where someone has taken the later SVT/Cougar calipers, and used the FSVT anchor brackets to accomodate the FSVT rotor. That case is on my car. I took FSVT rotors, anchor brackets, and pads, along with the hardened washers and longer bolts, and put them on my car using the stock SVT caliper housings. The only catch to this is that the FSVT pad backing plate needs to be modified slightly to fit the housing properly. Well, the other catch is that this swap makes sense only if you can source the FSVT anchor brackets seperately; and since they only come from Ford as part of a complete caliper assembly, it doesn't make much sense for anyone else to do what I did, whether you have the E0 or later calipers. That said, I don't even know for sure if the E0 calipers would work with the FSVT anchor brackets.


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Originally posted by tropictour:
Will our E1 calipers work for a core?
-tropictour




try calling Bill, i am gonna give him my calipers. he might just want to get something and not care wha caliper it is.


~Crystian 2000 Se sport 2001 Lightning(Sorry!your mom cant come with us)
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Rara(or anyone), do you have a source for zinc coated calipers? I'd really like to avoid the "rusty rotor" if I can.

Mark


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Do you want zinc washed rotors or calipers?


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I prefer stone washed
Originally posted by todras:
Do you want zinc washed rotors or calipers?



Last edited by RTStabler51; 09/21/05 03:33 PM.

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Originally posted by todras:
Do you want zinc washed rotors or calipers?




D'oh!! Way to proofread Mark!! Rotors please!! Do you know where I can find these Todd?

Mark


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LOL! Stone washed. Anywho their is a place in Grand Rapids thats called Midwest Plating Co. They did 4 rotors for Eurotour for $25. He said he'd do as many rotors for that also. I need to get 2 FSVT rotors done as well. Guess I should buy them since I have everything else to go on the car. Well want to do SS lines as well. $$$$$$$$$$$$$

Go to www.switchboard.com and put in Plating in Ft. Wayne, IN. 6 places are listed some don't look like they do zinc washing though. Call around and I'm sure you can get it done locally for cheap.


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Awesome! Thanks Todd!

Mark


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Just fooling around on that site, I found a link to what appears to be a really decent brake supplier. They are QUICK about emailing you back, and I mean within 5 minutes!! The website is www.raceshopper.com.

They don't carry any plain FSVT rotors YET, but they do have slotted, and also diamond slotted(see site) available. Prices break down as such:

FSVT rotors - Slotted: $164.87/pair
FSVT rotors - Diamond slotted: $178.88/pair

All of their rotors come with an anti-corrosion coating, and can be nickel plated for an extra $35/pair.

Mark


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The only rotor I'd get for a car driven hard is a gas groved/dimpled rotor or a solid one. Been proven many times cross drilled is not the way to do. Slotted rotors will also eat up your pads pretty quick. Get 2 solid rotors from BAT and get em zinc washed whatever color you wish.


-'96 SE MTX 3L -'98 SVT 1,173 of 6,535 -'05 Mazda 6s, loaded, g/f's ride -Need a 96-00 manual on CD? PM or email me
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Slotted rotors have not eaten my pads up quick....I had'em on the SHO and the CSVT and pad wear has been good...


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Hmm good to know. I've just read and talked with ppl at the track that they eat them. I don't have any experience.


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I can see how they would at the track, in my DD usage though, they didn't have any excessive wear issues.


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Might be good to note that then ya bastage!


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Originally posted by Y2KSVT:
Anyone have pics of their FSVT brakes with 16" or 17" wheels???








Since then I changed the wheels but don't have a close-up of the set-up.

#1388174 09/26/05 09:19 AM
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Originally posted by Pudmunkie:
Originally posted by [Email:
Chad@ForcedFed][/Email] I have had the Focus SVT brakes on for a long time and I open track the [censored] out of my car. I got one of the first sets back in the day from Bill @ Sentry I think, back then.

I have since been through the stock pads/rotors and am now on some Napa replacement rotors and Carbotech pads. I went through some crappy Hawk HPS's in 1 track day! They suck for the track but would make an OK street pad. The stock FSVT pad actually works well and is worth getting the caliper "loaded."

You WILL need longer bolts. I ran with the stock bolts for awhile but DID break them eventually under quite "spirited" driving (AutoX, Open Track). I upgraded to longer Metric 10.9 bolts and they have been fine since.

The FSVT brakes work great! I love them! They seem to find the limits of the tire easier as well as taking the heat much better with more surface area. I can get like 3-4 track days (16-20 20 minute + sessions) before the rotors are done and pads toast. Much better then what I got out of the stock SVT stuff! I may look into a setup custom made with Alcon calipers and Stasis 2 piece rotors. Should be intresting. Also talking to Ohlins about some one off coilovers. We'll see!




Its good to hear you're still interested in tracking the contour. For a while it sounded like you wanted to step up to something different. I love seeing your silver frost on thunderhill. You should keep doing it, just toss some more power at it!

At least I think thats your svt, i may be mistaken...





Yep thats me! I am definitely going to get it out a few more times this year. Buttonwillow in October I believe. Definitely on some new tires and fresh fluids. Maybe some more power on tap too! I might pull some more weight out too. We'll see. I switched from ATE Super Blue to Motul and it seems to work great, No more boiling fluid and the Motul is easier to get etc..

In my experience cross drilled or slotted rotors will always eat a pad faster. Just one of the side effects of the cutting effect. I have had the best luck with Ford or generic US made flat SVTF rotor blanks. I haven't even tried a cryo'd set yet which I might.

I have a ton of pics but here is a couple quick ones. Don't mind the "Blue" color of the rotors, lol.







1999 SVT Contour, 2004 SRT4 & Lots Others... Currently building my 1999 SVT for NASA's TT REAL racers do it twisty!!
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Hey Chad thats the FSVT rotor with the E1 caliper or FSVT caliper? Looks sweet, it fits perfect behind the e1's. Definitely my next upgrade.
-tropictour

Last edited by tropictour; 09/26/05 02:40 PM.

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I thought the FSVT rotors from Ford were coated with something.

The wear area of course will rust as it has the coating rubbed off anyway... but I thought they were coated.. I don't recall seeing them rusting on mine.


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I want some. Those brakes look good behind 17's.


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Brining this back to the top. Does anyone know off hand what the length/pitch caliper bolt is needed for this swap?

Thanks

Adrian

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Originally posted by Adrian Thompson:
Brining this back to the top. Does anyone know off hand what the length/pitch caliper bolt is needed for this swap?

Thanks

Adrian



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Wow, thanks for the quick reply. I have a set of calipers and rotors that I never fitted to my Focus as you can't use them with 15" wheels. As my snow tires were 15" and I didn't want to swap calipers twice a year I never fitted them. My Focus was totaled and I now have an SVTC so they're going on next Tuesday.

Thanks

Adrian

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There are brackets with those FSVT calipers, right?


Must be that jumbly-wumbly thing happening again.
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Yes, I got complete SVT Focus corners, calipers, rotors, hubs, upright, LCA etc. From what I've read I just need hardened 3mm washers and it bolts up with the same brake hoses, correct? The rest of the stuff will go on flee-bay or sit in my basement for 10 years and get binned

Thanks

Adrian

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Originally posted by Adrian Thompson:
Yes, I got complete SVT Focus corners, calipers, rotors, hubs, upright, LCA etc. From what I've read I just need hardened 3mm washers and it bolts up with the same brake hoses, correct?
Adrian





Correct.


-'96 SE MTX 3L -'98 SVT 1,173 of 6,535 -'05 Mazda 6s, loaded, g/f's ride -Need a 96-00 manual on CD? PM or email me
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Can somebody please post a picture of where the 3mm spacers go...I understand that they go between the knuckle and the caliper, but am having trouble visualizing it...thanks.


Originally posted by LUCA:
Yep. You can be Phil too if you'd like.


#1388185 05/02/06 02:49 AM
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Here ya go.. as you stated, they go between the knuckle and the caliper mounting bracket. If you look real close in this picture you can see the edge of them:



If you were like me.. now you are wondering where you can find the "illustrious" spacers. From another post running in parallel to this:

Originally posted by SVTforme:

FYI..

I ended up getting mine at McMaster Carr. They are hardened steel Belleville washers, part number 96445K267. They are 1.5mm in thickness each, so you need 8 of them total, which you can get in one package. If you opt for stainless (96475K267), you will need 2 packages. They fit perfectly for me. These aren't some cheap low carbon steel K-Mart blue light specials, they are Grade 6150 Chrome Vanadium Steel. The alternative is 17-7 PH Stainless Steel

Belleville washers are "spring washers", which maintain tension when force is applied to their surfaces and can be used to prevent bolt loosening.



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EXCELLENT info SVTforme! Well done & Thanks!



Must be that jumbly-wumbly thing happening again.
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Originally posted by TourDeForce:
EXCELLENT info SVTforme! Well done & Thanks!






+1

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Thank you very much...


Originally posted by LUCA:
Yep. You can be Phil too if you'd like.


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Originally posted by Adrian Thompson:
hubs, upright, LCA etc.





what did you get all that stuff for??


1999 Silver Frost SVT #609 of 2760 Quaife, lightened SVT Flywheel, SPEC stage II clutch, removed resonator, k&n drop in - various other goodies too.
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Originally posted by TGO:
Originally posted by Adrian Thompson:
hubs, upright, LCA etc.





what did you get all that stuff for??




two posts above that post he says that he used to own a focus. apparently they need all of that extra stuff, unlike us contour/cougar guys.


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