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I'd do a how to but the i lost the POS digital camera i had.


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Originally posted by GoldenTour:
You are correct.

but let me summarize:

1. cut red wire from 3 wire plug from alternator.
2. extend the red wire STILL HANGING from the connector to the main CHARGING wire.
3. the red wire going into the harness is no longer used. TAPE IT UP!!

Heres a Pic of the final wiring. The PINK wire is your new extension.


AGAIN, i cant take credit for this, and yeah i really feel for all of us who have replaced the alternator and did not see any benefit.




I'm gonna have to try this!

EDIT: Will this cause the battery light to stay on all the time, or does it still sense that the battery is charging?

Last edited by Stazi; 09/07/05 02:29 PM.

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OK im sorry i keep putting in bits and pieces of info in different posts.

From TSB Summary:
"
Should a customer express concern about flickering headlamps, wavering illumination of the instrument cluster, interior lighting and audio unit at low ambient temperatures when starting and at idle in the first few minutes after starting the engine, the probable cause is an extremely high resistance in the battery wiring harness from the central junction box (CJB) in the engine compartment to the B+ terminal on the generator. To rectify the concern, an additional generator/battery cable should be installed."

From what i understand from reading other posts, the lead that you cut is the REFERENCE VOLTAGE wire used by the Voltage regulator on the Alternator to regulate voltage output of the alternator itself. So, if the REFERENCE VOLTAGE wire within the harness is at an extremely high resistance, this would cause the alternator output to oscillate, thus causing flickering. follow me? so our new wire is basically taking a shortcut, instead of going through the junction box under the fuse box.

the battery light will NOT stay on! i should have taken pics when i did it. i thought everyone knew about since it had been posted here before. maybe it was a really old post i read, the post on NECO is from 9/03.

let me know if you have other q's

MOD: Maybe this thread should be a sticky.




Last edited by GoldenTour; 09/07/05 04:05 PM.

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so did u guys try this yet?


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I haven't, my problems have magicly gone away

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I don't mean to resurrect old threads, but the link to the fix is giving me a 404. anyone have a working link or copy of the full procedure, or does the picture pretty much tell-all


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Originally posted by platinum_drew:
.. anyone have a working link or copy of the full procedure, or does the picture pretty much tell-all



Drew,
I read the link previously and this summary by GoldenTour tells it all. Test the megafuse first (and check the baterry terminals and wire from positive to alternator and negative to ground "before attempting surgery").


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Originally posted by rkneeshaw3.0:
I haven't, my problems have magicly gone away




mine cured itself.. but the other night it did it for the first time in well over a month


1998.5 Diamond White Pearl SVT (#4725) custom exhaust/intake k&N/mod'ed y-pipe slotted rotors/greenstuff pads/SS lines cougar trans/FSVT shift tower/Torsen 16lb. flywheel 18" Velox VX-8's with some rubba bands
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so how do u know if the alt is shot or u just need to do this wiring setup. wont this just help with flickering lights by running an additional thicker gauge wire from alt to bat. if bat light keeps coming on and battery is fine then the alt likely has to be replaced, no?


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