Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Branches California Not sparking, no signal to FPR from PCM

Hello, I origonally posted in the troubleshooting thread, but it was suggested by DopePope that someone who only checks here might be able to help. Following is the origonal post and then a link to the posts thread.

1996 Ford Countour SE
2.5L Duratec V6
Manual Transmition 5+1
Miles: 153,000

Hello all, I have been reading though your excelent boards for the last few days trying to figure out whats the matter with my car. Unfortunately my car resists all attempts to fix it. So, I will regress...

A few months ago, my car started bucking and loosing power at odd moments. It didn't seem to matter how much fuel was in the tank or any other thing that I could find. Fast forward a few weeks, and now my car is comming out of the shop where a mechanic has just charged me buco bucks to remove the (after market) alarm and to do some other electrical maintenance on my vehicle and the car is running well again. I am happy.

That is, until a few days ago when I am driving along on my way to work when, here we go again, the car is bucking underneath me and stalling once in a while at stops. Then just 3 days ago, my Contour dies on me and won't restart. I get a tow back to my place and I start to look at the things that I know about.

I grab my trusty multimeter and chack every single fuse in the thing, make sure all my electrical connections are tight and clean. Also, I check my brown relays with the horn (hey it works) just to make sure they are all working. And then, stumped, turn to you guys. With your help I got my MAF sensor cleaned up along with my fuel filter replaced. And I didn't neglect to clean out IAC sensor either (YUCK!). Oh and let's not forget the crank shaft sensor and the cam shaft sensor as well. Thinking it couldn't hurt I also stuck the probes for my meter into the connector for the fuel pump just to see what would happen. Both pairs return a voltage with the power turned on. So, here I am thinking I have a bad fuel pump and decide to just replace it and the hell with the rest. So, I spent some time yesterday doing just that. Unfortunately after I have replaced the pump and have everything put back together, stiull no joy. Suddenly there is a niggling along my back that is telling me something is still wrong! So, I get out my meter again and some copper wire to cause a few intentional shorts. First thing I do is short out the fuel pump relay and low and behold, my brand new fuel pump in now running! Won't shut off no matter what I do (Short of removing the short ), but hey I didn't break the pump that I was putting in to replace the broken one.... DERP!!! Man back to square one.

So, now I am thinking that this has something to do with the computer (PCM?). If this is the case, can I just replace it? I saw online a store that will sell me the new kit (Computer and Flash upgrades I think) for $200 US. Am I on the right track or is there anything else that I haven't thought of? Replies would be appreciated.


Other things wrong:
Power locks no longer function. (Burnt out by alarm)
Drivers control, only functioning, power window control.
Trunk won't release with inside lever.


Origonal Post in Troubleshooting

I hope someone can help as I am down to my last car and I need it to get me to work tomorrow night.

Jason

i beleve the problem could be a bad

fuse #1
fuse#10 located in the engine compartment

(shorting buss conector#3) i beleve it is located in the under hood fuse box, if this failed there would be no ground for the ignition relay,you can test for a bad ground by removeing the ignition relay r16(located under the dash) and testing for resistance where pin #1 of the relay goes in.

if ground is bad replace shorting buss conector#3 if you cant find it ford will tell were it is located

if the ground is good then check for 12volts were pin #2 on the relay goes in with the key in the run position.

if 12volts are presant use a jumper wire between where
pin #5 and #3 on the relay go in.

try to start if starts replace the ignition relay
if not post back

it sounds like you already checked relay 11(pcm) with the horn relay if that relay is good and the groung is good and its geting swiched power when you turn the key on then the computer has a bad ground located by the power steering resivor or the pcm is bad.

you might want to call who ever removed the alarm and ask if they had to cut and splice any wires, its posible one of the new conections failed