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1998 CONTOUR SE-2.5L CD4E A/T - My daughterâ??s Contour started shifting hard about two months ago. The hard shifts would occur after driving at 60-70 MPH for about 10 minutes and then getting off of the freeway and driving in the city. She said the shifts were so hard she thought the transmission was going to fall out of the car. Then about two weeks ago the transmission started holding first gear until she let up on the accelerator and then it would shift into second gear. Now it is also holding second until you let up on the accelerator. Sometimes the O/D light flashes until the ignition is switched off. Occasionally it will shift without letting up on the accelerator after driving at 60-70 MPH on the freeway. Even then the shift speed seems to be a bit high. I have an Autotap and am able to monitor some of the transmission functions. The shift solenoids seem to be operating properly and the car holds 1st gear even when the command gear is 2nd until I let up on the accelerator and let it shift into second. The transmission fluid temperature is running 210 degrees and the only DTC I get is P0732 (GEAR 2 INCORRECT RATIO). I assume the reason for that DTC is that the command gear is 2 and the transmission is holding 1st gear. The transmission fluid has been changed regularly and shown no signs of being burnt.

Does anyone have any idea as to what the problem may be? Would it be possible to repair the problem without pulling the transmission? THANKS!

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Welcome. Usually when someone has ATX issues, the first thing we ask is whether the ATF has been changed in the past 30K miles or so. And we would also ask to check if the level is correct and whether the color is clear pink/red and to compare to a quart of new ATF Mercon.

This might help you decide what to do.

Originally posted by GeoPappas:
The following is from the Ford TSP (Technical Service Publication):

Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P0731/P0781 indicates gear #1 incorrect ratio. DTC P0732/P0782 indicates gear #2 incorrect ratio. DTC P0733/P0783 indicates gear #3 incorrect ratio. DTC P0734/P0784 indicates gear #4 incorrect ratio.

DTC P0750/P0751, P1751 indicates SS1 electrical malfunction. DTC P0755/P0756/P1756 indicates SS2 electrical malfunction. DTC P0760/P0761/P1761 indicates SS3 electrical malfunction.

Possible causes:
-- Internal Transmission.
-- Damaged solenoid.
-- Solenoid circuit open or shorted to VPWR or GND.
-- VPWR circuit open or shorted.
-- PCM damaged.

* Key off.

* Disconnect transmission vehicle harness connector. Inspect for damaged or pushed out pins, corrosion, loose wires, etc. Service as necessary.

* Connect DVOM between the VPWR pin and the suspect solenoid pin at the transmission vehicle harness connector.

* Perform KOEO Self-Test.





Edit. Should you decide to change the ATF,
http://www.contour.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=tranny&Number=992476&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=7&fpart=1

In addition, if you did not mention the DTC O732, I would have suggested you check the connections for the VSS and TSS.

Last edited by Tony2005; 08/30/05 01:03 AM.

"Always do the cheap and easy ones first." 1996 V6 ATX 96K miles
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Fluid has been changed within the last 3000 miles and 15,000 miles prior to that. I cannot tell the difference between the fluid in the trans and fresh mercon. The fluid level is correct.

Looking at the possible causes in the previous reply:

- PCM damaged - The PCM is commanding the transmission to shift but, the shifts (1-2 and 2-3) are not occurring (unless I let up on the accelerator). Could there still be a problem with the PCM?

- VPWR circuit open or shorted - Once again, no DTCâ??s indicating an electrical problem. Could there still be a problem with VPWR?

- Solenoid circuit open or shorted to VPWR or GND - Again, no DTCâ??s indicating an electrical problem with the solenoids and, the solenoids appear to be operating properly when their action is monitored with Autotap while driving the car.

- Damaged solenoid - See above

- Internal transmission - Since the above have been eliminated (at least in my mind), does anyone have any idea what may be wrong with the transmission that affects both the 1-2 shift and the 2-3 shift in the manner described in my initial post?

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Originally posted by NKENN:

- Internal transmission - Since the above have been eliminated (at least in my mind), does anyone have any idea what may be wrong with the transmission that affects both the 1-2 shift and the 2-3 shift in the manner described in my initial post?





If you had a code, I would have suggested Turbine shaft speed sendor. But without the code, it would be just a guess.


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Nkenn,
Have the same problem with my wife's 2001 Contour, 2.5 ATX. Fluid changed 4300 miles ago, Level is a tad high. Was running fine. Was going to work and bingo, stays in 1st till you drop back on the gas pedel then shifts to second. Some times it shifts to third. . Ford said it was internal band based on same code you had. They want $3000 to replace with a ford rebuilt Trans... dont think so!

The mechanics at ford dealers get commisions from the work they do so guess they are saving up for Xmas early!!! I know this is true since several I have talked to have mentioned it.

To me it appears to be a control issue not mechnical one. Has anyone had this problem and corrected it without spending 3 grand for a FORD rebuilt? Thanks for any info.




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BAGreenSVT,
It sounds like a control problem to me also. When it does shift it doesn't seem to slip. Most of the time it just won't shift without letting up on the accelerator. I do hope there is someone out there who knows the answer. If it does need a new transaxle, my son-in-law and I will probably do it ourselves but, I do want to know what the problem is BEFORE we just start throwing parts at it. If you get further information please post it. I will do likewise.
THANKS!

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Hard shifting after hwy driving is caused by high line pressure due to â??limp home modeâ?. LHM is a result of high ATX temp caused by slippage or slippage detected by the PCM. A bad TSS or VSS can sometimes trick the PCM into thinking the ATX is slipping. They are cheap compared to a new ATX and you would want to use new ones if you install a new ATX anyway, so it wonâ??t hurt to change them. Internally it could be a bad 2/4 band, forward clutch or worn VB

Be warned, sometimes the TSS can be a real problem to remove.

jeff


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MERCMAN, Thanks for your input. I will monitor the outputs of the TSS and VSS with my Autotap while driving the vehicle to try to determine if there seems to be a discrepancy with their readings. I will also monitor the fluid temperature during exended freeway driving to determine if the trans fluid temperature is excessive. During normal highway driving (55 MPH) the trans fluid temperature seems to top out at the engine coolant temperature (198-201 degrees). Keep in mind that the temperature here at the time of the test was 94 degrees.

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Not sure if this could be related to a problem I just had...

Link to another ATX problem post


Shana Pink - 1995 Contour GL - ATX (170k) Scarab Red Pearl - 1995 - MTX (coming soon!)
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Was reviewing the data file that I logged the last time I hooked the Autotap to the Contour. The TSS consistently indicates 0 or 1 RPM regardless of the speed I drove from standing still to 55 MPH. I am going to hook the Autotap up the the car again and double check my results. If I get the same results again, I am going to connect the Autotap to my 96 Taurus and monitor the TSS output on the Taurus to be sure the Autotap in not giving a false indication. If the Taurus TSS checks Good and the Contour TSS continues to check bad then I will change the TSS in the Contour.

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DataLog file must have become corrupt. Retested and TSS is functioning fine.

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I would replace the TSS and install a tranny cooler.


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i have a 98 ford contour se v6, with the same problem. I noticed the 1st time it happened i thought my tranny was going to fall out. i pulled over and turned off the car and sat there for a few wondering if i should drive it any further.

when i started the car back up and took off the shifting was normal no more problem, until i jumped on the freeway again going about 60-75mph. got off the freeway came to a light. took off and the shifting was rough again.

it seems like it could be a sensor or electrical problem.
AAmco told me i needed to replace the tranny. 2500.00 - 3500.00 dollars. i don't think so.

if you have fixed your problem can you help me.
thank you :

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My 98 SE ATX has blown 5 trannys since I got in 2000. My friend also has replaced a few in his SE.

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The TX finally threw a code (P1744 - Torque Converter Clutch System Performance). Carried the car to a TX shop and they wanted $2800 (not firm) to exchange the TX. They said that when TCC went bad sliping generated heat and caused the TX to go bad. I said no thanks to the $2800. Ordered a remanufactured TX for $800 + shipping and am in the process of pulling the old TX. Hope the new one will arrive in the next couple of days.

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Originally posted by dzgrlz:
i have a 98 ford contour se v6, with the same problem. I noticed the 1st time it happened i thought my tranny was going to fall out. i pulled over and turned off the car and sat there for a few wondering if i should drive it any further.

when i started the car back up and took off the shifting was normal no more problem, until i jumped on the freeway again going about 60-75mph. got off the freeway came to a light. took off and the shifting was rough again.

it seems like it could be a sensor or electrical problem.
AAmco told me i needed to replace the tranny. 2500.00 - 3500.00 dollars. i don't think so.





Welcome dzgrlz. .
Try the cheap easy ones first. Scan for CELs even if the light is not on. Check ATF level, check condition (should be clear pink/red); buy a quart to compare. Might want to try the TSS and MLPS. The ATF is $30, TSS is $25 and MLPS is $50. All with how tos on this site.

Edit. ATF change
http://www.contour.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=tranny&Number=992476&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=7&fpart=all&vc=1

Turbine Shaft Speed sensor.
http://www.contour.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=tranny&Number=257675&fpart=1&PHPSESSID=

Manual Level Position Sensor
http://www.contour.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=trouble&Number=1040336&page=&view=&sb=5&o=&fpart=all&vc=1


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Thank you for replying.
My cel is on the code is P1744. The code indicates that the torque converter clutch is stuck in the off position. what exactly does that mean? it doesn't happen all the time. what do you think i should replace first? the TSS.
I had the atf changed about 1 month ago.

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Originally posted by dzgrlz:
Thank you for replying.
My cel is on the code is P1744. The code indicates that the torque converter clutch is stuck in the off position. what exactly does that mean? it doesn't happen all the time. what do you think i should replace first? the TSS.
I had the atf changed about 1 month ago.



This sounds bad, read three posts above. In addition, read the below post for a definition. If it were me, I would try changing the TSS ($25 at www.teamfordparts.com) and hope for the best(grasping straws but what can you do....).

Originally posted by GeoPappas:
The following is from the Ford TSP:

Description:

Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) Solenoid:

The torque converter clutch (TCC) solenoid is a pulse width modulating style solenoid. The PWM solenoid is used to control the apply and release of the bypass clutch in the torque converter. By modulating the pulse width of the TCC solenoid the pressure in the S4 circuit varies modulating the apply and release of the bypass clutch in the torque converter.

Symptoms:

Failed ON - Engine stalls in manual 2nd. Engine lugging, poor performance at low engine speeds, harsh shifts.

Failed OFF - Poor fuel economy, overheating, TCC will not engage.

DTCs: P0741**, P7043*, P1741**, P1742**, P1743**, P1744**

Note:
*Output circuit check, generated only by an electrical condition.

Note:
**May also be generated by other NON-electronic related transmission hardware conditions.






Edit. Read this thread too.

http://www.contour.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=tranny&Number=895623&Forum=tranny&Words=p1744&Match=Entire%20Phrase&Searchpage=0&Limit=25&Old=allposts&Main=893974&Search=true#Post895623

Last edited by Tony2005; 10/25/05 02:01 PM.

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Your problem could be electronic or hydraulic. I'd start first with installing a TransGo Shift Kit. You can get it from www.bulkpart.com. I would also replace the solenoid pack.

Shift correction kit is about 35 dollars
New solenoid pack is about 150 dollars. If this doesn't fix it then you will need a rebuild...

You don't need to pull the atx to remove the valve body. The solenoid pack is attached to the back of the valve body and is easy to get to.

Bob


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