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there were a few snags along the way after you left, but everyone got up and running in a rather quick fashion, and I dunno about everyone else, but I made it home alright. but lemme tell you, this whole "idling at 2k" crap is no bueno


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Originally posted by platinum_drew:
but lemme tell you, this whole "idling at 2k" crap is no bueno




Drew, didn't we determine that the problem was not the engine but a mechanical fault. (?????)

You need to spray WD-40 on the pedal hinge (and if there is a spring, that also) and the spring at the bottom of the accelerator cable (by the throttle body).


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Originally posted by platinum_drew:
there were a few snags along the way after you left, but everyone got up and running in a rather quick fashion, and I dunno about everyone else, but I made it home alright. but lemme tell you, this whole "idling at 2k" crap is no bueno




Heh, mine would come off throttle to idle at 1500rpms for about 10 seconds, then drop to normal. I think there's some relearning going on in the ECU.


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Originally posted by Jeb Hoge:

Heh, mine would come off throttle to idle at 1500rpms for about 10 seconds, then drop to normal. I think there's some relearning going on in the ECU.




Drew's would drop to normal when he pulled the accelerator pedal up with his hand!


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Originally posted by Tony2005:
Originally posted by Jeb Hoge:

Heh, mine would come off throttle to idle at 1500rpms for about 10 seconds, then drop to normal. I think there's some relearning going on in the ECU.




Drew's would drop to normal when he pulled the accelerator pedal up with his hand!




I really don't think it's the springs, it only "fixed" when pulling the accel. up because it pulled the cables along with it, but the pedal isn't supposed to go back that far. I'm guessing throttle cable still


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Originally posted by platinum_drew:
this whole "idling at 2k" crap is no bueno





update:

I had recently done the TH fix, and the hole I drilled was very small compared to what others have done (7/64). I was thinking, maybe the hole was so small cause of all the buildup, or if not than even so, maybe the smaller sized hole had something to do with it.
so I went outside today, disconnect the battery, yanked out the copper cap altogether, put the batt. back on and viola! well, sorta. no longer up at 2k, came down to 1000-1250, but even so, might drop back down after I drive it a bit.

also, I was thinking, since we had like every sensor on the damn engine disconnected, anyone think it could be a dirty sensor causing a higher idle?


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You could pull out the cap and put a small hose clamp on the outside of the hose. Tighten it down until your car stops moosing.

-Andy


Andy W. The problem with America is stupidity. I'm not saying there should be a capital punishment for stupidity, but why don't we just take the safety labels off of everything and let the problem solve itself?
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ah!!! that idle problem, FIXED!

a while back when I was having those EGR codes and those o2 problems, we got it to the point where the car would start, then stall immediately, but would run just fine if you didn't let it drop down to idle and stall. so what'd we do? adjusted the idle up a click or two, and problem was solved.

well, I never put it back down, and after cleaning the manifolds, I guess a lot more air was passing through (c'mon, you guys saw how bad mine were ). adjusted the idle back down to normal, and it idles right at 700ish, smooth as butta


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I got my throttle body gasket (the correct one this time) put it yesterday. What a difference it made...I was starting to really notice the vacuum leak affecting my car, but it's back to normal now.


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Originally posted by Jeb Hoge:
I got my throttle body gasket (the correct one this time) put it yesterday. What a difference it made...I was starting to really notice the vacuum leak affecting my car, but it's back to normal now.




You're lucky. My car still has its CEL flashing from the CEG meet and so far I haven't found what the problem is. Took it apart on Saturday but didn't find the cure yet.


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