Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications Brakes Castrol GT LMA brake fluid?

Several questions.
Has anyone seen any on the shelves and where of course?
Or is there a anything similiar type formulation?
Normal driving except for the 500 miles trips twice year I-80 around Chicago. It's only place I've driven where you speed up around a city to keep from getting run over. In my Mystique LS NO problem. Luv that chassis!
That's why my last brake-jop was Stazi's stuff.
Adherent braking is good to know about, just bit tid-bit this old fart finally understands. Uneven transfer of pad matieral to the rotors NOT warped rotors.
Is there such a process of burnising the rotors instead of cutting/turning? After two Ohio winters I'd like to clean up the rotors or is just best to get them turned? I know there not metal to work with before the rotor too thin, that's why I was burnishing. My idea of burnishing would be to spin the rotors on (device?)while using a 4 inch grinder with wire brush mounted. There again the device/rigging to keep the rotor true?
Any other tight-wads like me have done anything like this?
You don't have to a tight wad!
One last. Looking for replacement slider pin bushings, Ford parts guy doesn't show those seperated anymore. If I remember correctly other CEG'ers have replaced in the past get rid of the schudder during light braking?
I think that's what Stazi mentioned awhile back?
Any ideas or comments greatly appreciated!

TNX
Paul

"LMA" low moisture absorbtion
It must have worked after 2+ years since I last flushed the fluid still looks clean in the caplier piston area. Usually that looks dark or even rusty from the moisture absorbstion?

As far as build-up on the rotors: some have had luck with a hard (70-0) stop or two to burn it off. I wouldn't do anything but machine it if it was off the car.

Fluid: order ATE super-blue. It absorbs moisture VERY slowly, and the color makes bleeding easier. I got mine here:

http://www.turnermotorsport.com/html/detail.asp?PRODUCT_ID=ATESB

I like Valvoline Synpower DOT 4 fluid. It's specs are a little above the Castrol GT LMA but not as high as ATE. Valvoline is easy to find.

and very inexpensive too.

Thanks guys!
Paul

Guys, if Rara says something about brakes, I listen. I was sceptical about Valvoline simply because its specs were so high. Fluids with great specs are ofen more hydroscopic, which means they work great in extreme conditions, but at the cost of reduced life. ATE has good specs, but its main advantage is that it is HIGHLY non-hydroscopic. You can run it longer with less bleeding, which makes it great for a street car. A fresh batch of ATE once a year would provide great street performance. For racing, I would consider Ford's very good top-end fluid, which is much cheaper, and flush it often.

The Ford HD fluid is very good fluid especially for the money, though, they have recently changed the packaging, and I haven't used any of the stuff in the new package. I have been using ATE Super blue in the contour for awhile now, and I've been very happy with it.
In our race cars, we've been running the Motul 600 which is awesome in all but the most extreme cases, where nothing short of Castrol SRF is going to work.


bigmoney, proper brake servicing is critical, as is using at least decent fluid when doing the servicing. If you want to stay super cheap, go with the Ford HD fluid; then hunt for the Super Blue (which really isn't that hard to find and isn't that expensive either) then after that you would be looking at a Motul 600 type fluid.