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Swazo Offline OP
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Is there a pipe adaptor/reducer for the turbine inlet for a Garrett T3/T04E available? (Transistions from the round pipe to the rounded corner rectangle inlet shape)

I've searched all over the net and have come up with nothing.

I'd like to avoid having to reshape my own out of the piping I have. What have you DIY'ers done?


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you need to buy (or make) a flange that will bolt to the turbo, and weld that flange to the end of the pipe you are using.


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Swazo Offline OP
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I have the ss flange w/ studs for the turbo. What I'm hoping to get is an adapter type reducer to transition the pipe to the flange's ID shape.


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Swazo Offline OP
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Originally posted by Rara:
you need to buy (or make) a flange that will bolt to the turbo, and weld that flange to the end of the pipe you are using.




I'm so new to welding it's sick, sorry for the full on newbie stink

Are you saying that I'd be ok to weld the pipe over the inlet port of the flange, rather than try to reshape the pipe to match the ID of the flange?

I'm doing all the fab work/fitment and am tacking it all together so an old timer can TIG it all when I'm done.


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Originally posted by Swazo:
I have the ss flange w/ studs for the turbo. What I'm hoping to get is an adapter type reducer to transition the pipe to the flange's ID shape.


\


Yes. it's called a hammer!

You take it to a vise and open the jaws. You put the pipe over the corner of one of the jaws and then you hammer it to get a corner. Then turn the pipe until you get an approximate distance the same as the width of the flange and crease it again. Do it two more times and you have a smooth transition to a square. Bear in mind that the T3 inlet flange will require around a 2.5" pipe at the maximum. YOu don't want a bunch of funky transitions going into the flange. Use 2.5" hammered smoothly to the rectangular shape and it will cause a gradual necking down that helps increase the gas velocity as it enters the turbine. THere can be NO lips in the piping if you want the best results. The turbine scroll will continue to neck down until it shoots the stream of exhaust right onto the turbine wheel.

Now on the discharge side of the turbine you can use larger pipe even if it is larger than the flange hole. THis is to reduce backpressure. However, 2.5" is again the ideal sized pipe that fits the exit flange and should be sufficient. You will want to upsize to about 3" right around the point where you rejoin the wastegate bypass pipe with the exhaust unless you are going externally vented like myself. In that case the 2.5" pipe will be more than sufficient under full load.


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Originally posted by Swazo:
Originally posted by Rara:
you need to buy (or make) a flange that will bolt to the turbo, and weld that flange to the end of the pipe you are using.




I'm so new to welding it's sick, sorry for the full on newbie stink

Are you saying that I'd be ok to weld the pipe over the inlet port of the flange, rather than try to reshape the pipe to match the ID of the flange?

I'm doing all the fab work/fitment and am tacking it all together so an old timer can TIG it all when I'm done.




NO. See post above. IT is okay to weld it directly to the flange but us should have very little overlap. As I said, 2.5" will generally fit perfect.


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Swazo Offline OP
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Right on Tom, that's what I needed to hear!

I have my piping transition from both headers in 2" and it changes to 2.25" after the y-collector. The 2.25" looks to be perfect size for the inlet's flange once reshaped like you said.

I have a 4 bolt style DP, and have the 2.5" that expands to 3" as it drops below the crossover pipe and on back to the 3" cat-back system I just fab'd. The wastegate will get plumbed into the DP half way to the cat or right about the 2.5"-3" transition. (this is the plan for the DP atleast, since it'll be the last thing I have to do. I purchased a few extra 45's and 90 mandrel bends to have as many options open for fitment)



2005 Ford F150 SuperCab FX4 1964 Chevrolet Impala SS 1998 CSVT: 354HP/328TQ @ 10 psi, now gone

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