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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,356
Hard-core CEG\'er
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OP
Hard-core CEG\'er
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,356 |
I've got a couple questions regarding SVT brakes. I have searched, just confirming information...
How much better are the SVT brakes?? Are they really that much better?? Do they actually stop any better??
I've looked in the classifieds and no one seems to have any for sale. Anyone have any laying around that they'd like to sell??
If no one has any I guess i'll go to the stealership with my hookup and see how much they'd cost. I heard $130 for the pair when I was searching.
So, for those that have upgraded, do you feel it was worth it.
I've gotta replace rotors now anyways so I figure now's the time to upgrade if im gonna.
1999 Mystique LS V6
Alpine CDA-9807, Rear deck sub, Opt. TB, K&N RU-3530/MAF adaptor, custom heatshield, FSVT 17's, SCT 4-program chip, Eibach's/ST200's, Hella Fogs...
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Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 4,693
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 4,693 |
Yes, it is noticable, depending on how you drive. I think it is how they sould have been built in the first place. Better braking from the larger diameter rotor, better heat fade resistance from the greater rotor mass, and potentially better rotor and pad life. Again depending on how you drive.
All you need to make the conversion is the larger rotors and the correct (late SVT or larger Cougar) caliper brackets.
Some have found better pricing by getting the brackes at a wrecking yard from a 99 or newer Cougar. A few Cougars didn't have the larger brakes, so make sure before you take them off. If the Cougar has rear disc brakes, it probably has the larger front brakes, but check to make sure.
Don't forget that your spare will not fit over the larger brakes. In the event of a front flat, you will need to mount the spare on the rear and move the full size to the front. You may want to snag the spare from a Cougar if you locate one for the brackets.
Jim Johnson
98 SVT
03 Escape Limited
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 322
CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 322 |
Like Jim said, it really depends on your driving habits. I upgraded to EO style calipers (wider sweep area, but slightly smaller pads), and bought Brembo rotors and Bendix pads. I like the set-up a lot,and find that braking from highway speeds is a lot smoother and feels more controlled (I never really felt like the car was stopping before). Granted, my SE rotors were quite warped when I swapped them out. Emergency stops are more controlled, and don't feel that stressful on the car (or the driver).
I'd recommend the upgrade if you can find Cougar brackets for cheap enough. I figure the whole setup cost me about $100 more then a stock replacement, including the cost of new calipers. Besides, brakes are perhaps the most important system in your car... you might as well have good ones.
-Chris
2000 SE Sport V6 5spd
(all stock except for EO brakes)
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Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 768
Veteran CEG\'er
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Veteran CEG\'er
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 768 |
well, if you needed to change the calipers, then you really should've gone for FSVT setup. I have CSVT brakes on SE, and someone who drives CSVT w/ FSVT brakes commented on the difference after a mile of driving. I wasn't happy
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 322
CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 322 |
I didn't need to change the calipers, but did anyway since I got such a good price on them. If I was buying brand-new full-price calipers, then I wholeheartedly agree with you and would have gone with FSVT brakes.
For my purposes the EO calipers worked just fine though.
-Chris
2000 SE Sport V6 5spd
(all stock except for EO brakes)
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,356
Hard-core CEG\'er
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OP
Hard-core CEG\'er
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,356 |
None of the boneyards around here have a cougar. Well, supposedly one way out has one but its pretty well gutted... I wish I could get the CSVT/Cougar brackets cheap but even with my parts hookup it was $80 for the left bracket and the right they said you have to buy the whole caliper with bracket for a little over $200... Looks like im outta luck... My old rotors were pretty bad... They were down to 22.18mm... New ones say not to wear them thinner than 22.2mm... Guess they were done... I've got another question now. Since I was originally doing wheel bearings (pass. side), now im not sure if that wheel bearing was really bad. When you were driving straight, the car would kind of howl at highway speeds, but if you turned the wheel to the left, it would make a grinding noise. I thought it was the wheel bearing but it feels very smooth and is nice and quiet when you turn it by hand. Maybe you'd need more pressure on it to really tell though, im not sure. But I almost think I need to replace the CV joint. How much play should there be in the CV joint?? You can move it around a little (very little) freely, before it feels like its hitting anything... Any thoughts??
1999 Mystique LS V6
Alpine CDA-9807, Rear deck sub, Opt. TB, K&N RU-3530/MAF adaptor, custom heatshield, FSVT 17's, SCT 4-program chip, Eibach's/ST200's, Hella Fogs...
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