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Actually the Contour is still on the side of the road, but will be towed to a shop first thing Friday and diagnostic check done for free. I will get the codes, find what they mean (with the help of wonderful folks such as yourselves) and go from there. Depends on the problem(s) as to what I do or what I have the shop do. On a side note, does anyone know where to get a owners manual, or would a repair manual be enough? Thanks.


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Originally posted by thasamorrish:
Everything semmed to be in order, dash lights and the annoying bing-bing-bing. I just got really no sound at all when I turned the key. And the dash lights stayed on when I turned the key, so battery is fine.




Not necessarily. When my battery died, everything worked inside the car, including the radio.


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Originally posted by hetfield:
Originally posted by thasamorrish:
Everything semmed to be in order, dash lights and the annoying bing-bing-bing. I just got really no sound at all when I turned the key. And the dash lights stayed on when I turned the key, so battery is fine.




Not necessarily. When my battery died, everything worked inside the car, including the radio.




That's a crazy battery. I don't understand, if a battery is dead , doesn't that mean, ummm, dead?


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A dead battery or faulty battery cabling will cause the lights, etc to drop power when the starter motor engages (or attempts to). This starter is not even attempting to crank ("does nothing").

Is the car PATS equipped? If so, there may be an issue with the anti-theft system that is preventing starter operation. If there are PATS issues, the car will likely have to go to an authorized Ford dealer.

Owner's manuals in Adobe .pdf format can be downloaded for free from www.fleet.ford.com Otherwise, a hard-copy manual might be ordered from www.helminc.com subject to availability.

As to the original stalling issue, I'd suspect either the MAF sensor or a massive air leak in the air intake tube post-MAF.

As always, it is necessary to completely identify your vehicle by year, engine, and transmission. Your signature is a good place to put this pertinent information.


98 Contour SE Sport 2.5 Duratec ATX The wifey's car 89 Taurus SHO - 246K miles 94 SHO ATX - 190K 1997 F-150 5.4L ATX - The Workhorse 150K. ANY THREAD WITH "OMG" or "WTF" ETC IN THE TITLE WILL BE IGNORED!
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Got car towed this morning and checked the battery. Checked out ok. Just that familiar clicking sound of the starter when I turn the key. Their price of a starter is $266 + $78 Labor.
Autozone starter is $149. Do not know what the shop would charge for labor with my own part. Don't really want to do my own work on their property. Just doesn't seem right somehow. They said the starter would have to be replaced before they could do a diagnostic check for the codes. True or not true?


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"As always, it is necessary to completely identify your vehicle by year, engine, and transmission."

Did they scan for Check Engine Light code? That would have been a good starting point. If they disconnected the batter, then the codes are probably gone by now. As for the cost of the starter and labor, if it were me, I probably don't have a choice at this moment (and seeing that it is probably not acceptable to work on your car outside your residence, maybe HOA issues or covenants or something like that).

An earlier post mentioned the gas in the tank, was it below 1/4 tank or so? Fuel filter clogged maybe? It could be a number of things. We are also troubleshooting. Sorry if I can't be of additional help. Other more experienced Contour owners may be able to chime in with stronger opinions on what to do.


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Did not scan yet. Also did not disconnect battery. Getting ready to call them. Plus, With 87k miles, could the filter be clogged already?

Last edited by thasamorrish; 07/08/05 05:23 PM.

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Yes, 87K is a lot for a fuel filter. I have mine changed 18k to 24K (or 18 to 24 months). Some of the CEGers change them more frequent. About $10 for the filter and there is a how-to. At this time, if you want a good laugh at my expense, Search the Duratec Maintenance forum for fuel filter posts from yesterday and the day before.



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The shop just called and he said the code that he found was P1383. Drivetrain?? Couldn't find that on troublecodes.net.
Plus, how would that have caused the car to not start or have a rough idle when it did?


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According to Actron Scanner,
"P1383 is Camshaft Position Timing Over-Retard (Bank 1)"

And according to their website

" �· P1383 Over Retarded Timing
Over-retarded timing is detected. The PCM detected that the Variable Cam Timing "VCT" position indicated that the camshaft timing was over-retarded when compared to a calibrated limit
Possible causes are:
�· Camshaft timing improperly set.
�· No oil flow to piston chamber.
�· VCT (variable cam timing) solenoid stuck open.
�· Camshaft advance mechanism binding (VCT unit). "

Unfortunately, that is the extent of my assistance to you. Someone else who has experienced this may be able to assist you.


"Always do the cheap and easy ones first." 1996 V6 ATX 96K miles
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