Taken from both:
Derk2000
and
Ray McNairy (R.I.P)
As previously done, I am (again) not attempting to redo or out-do any how-to already created.. I am simply adding the pictures to go along as aides, because the majority of members state that they would be more likely to attempt a maintenance procedure if they could see some "real-world" pictures.. The how to below is taken directly from the other two available (by Derk2000, and Ray McNairy[R.I.P])
NOTE: I did not completely perform the following procedure. I only mimicked it to create the photo process. As such, there may be something in this how-to that visually goes against what is written. If you see it in the picture, don't assume you should do that. Follow the directions verbatim, and you will be fine. The pictures are only used as a guide for the, already very well written, how-to that exists.
What kind of plugs should I use?
The Duratec requires double-platinum plugs for proper operation. Single platinum or copper plugs will fire but will wear prematurely. Appropriate stock replacements are Motorcraft AGSF32PP/AGSF32PPM or Autolite APP764 (essentially the same plug). The Motorcraft plugs may be hard to come by in your area; the Autolites are perfect substitutes in that case. Don't forget to set the proper gap on your plugs (.054) even if the manufacturer claims they are pre-gapped.
Note that Bosch +4 or NGK Iridiums are hit-or-miss for many Duratec owners. Some people have reported great performance, while others have experience ignition problems. Other kinds of plugs, like Splitfires, are mostly snake oil and should be avoided altogether.
-Courtesy of Hetfield
**Double platinum plugs**
APP764 is the Autolite part number for Motorcraft AWSF32PP
They can be found at Autozone for $3.99 each.
=Tools/Materials=
1 packet Anti-seize
1 packet Di-electric grease
Socket wrench
Torque wrench (optional)
5/8 socket and/or spark plug socket
7mm socket
8.5" (8"?) extension
Feeler gauge
Flat-head screw driver (thin)
1. Make sure the engine is cool. Warm aluminum isn�t something to mess with.
2. Remove IMRC cover with the 7mm socket.
3. Check the cleanliness of the area around the spark plug. If it's dirty, it's a good idea to spray some compressed air (gently) into the area to remove any loose debris.
4. Pull one spark plug wire off at a time. This helps you avoid possible wiring mishaps. Pull from the rubber boot, not the wire itself. If you're replacing the wires, just pull the spark plug side first.
5. Using the socket wrench, spark plug socket (or the 5/8" socket), and the extension, remove the old spark plug. It should come out easily. Remove the plug by turning it counterclockwise. Once you crack it loose, spin it out about three or four turns. Then remove the socket wrench and spin the extension by hand. If you can't get the plug out, slip a 5/16" vacuum line over the spark plug and turn it out with that.
The rear bank of plugs CAN be done without removing the coilpack (if your hands are small enough, and you have no difficulty getting the plug boots off the engine itself (it IS a tight fit, but can be done) See below:
6. Gap the new plug to
.054 using feeler gauges. Most plugs come pre-gapped, but it's never a bad idea to double check. Place the appropriate amount of gauges (adding up to .054) into the plug gap. If the gap is too large, gently press down on the electrode with the feelers still in the gap. If the gap is too small, gently pull up on the electrode. Remember, small discrepancies make a difference.
7. Liberally apply anti-seize material to the threads of the new plug.
8. Before putting the plug back in, make sure the hole is clean and free of dirt, debris, oil, etc. If cleaning is necessary, take care that the stuff you're cleaning up doesn�t wind up in the combustion chamber (down the hole).
9. Using just the extension and the socket (not the wrench), gently thread the spark plug back into its socket. Do not force it, it should go in easily. Thread until finger tight, then tighten with a socket wrench or torque wrench. Spark plugs do not need to be extraordinarily tight. Haynes manual says 95-97 requires 84-180
in. lbs. while 98+ requires 140
in. lbs.
10. Inspect the plug wire boot. Clean if necessary, or replace if damaged. Liberally apply di-electric grease to the inside of the plug wire boot, and place the boot over the spark plug. It should fit snug, and should not come off easily. A slight tug (on the boot) should let you know if the wire is too loose or not.
11. If you're replacing the wires, follow the removed wire back to the coil pack. The wire will be easily removed by pinching the connector and gently wiggling the wire off. Apply di-electric grease on the new wire's connector. The new wire will easily snap on in the same manner.
12. Continue on to the next plug and/or wire in the same fashion. Remember, one plug at a time!
13. If you've replacing the wires and want to re-use the plastic plug-wire holders, simply remove the cover by sliding a thin flat-head screw driver into the holder, separating the two pieces. I would make this the last step, as it's easier to retain the order of the plug wires this way.
Total Time: ~1 hour if it's your first time with the Duratec.
