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====Oil Change How-To====
By CEGer Derk2000
=Tools/Material Required=
6 quarts of oil
Oil filter
Socket wrench
15mm socket
Oil filter wrench (optional)
Old cardboard box or newspaper
Oil catcher
Oil funnel
Clean rags or paper towels
1. Check your oil level. This is a good time to determine whether you're loosing oil or not.
2. Slightly warm the oil by driving ~3-5 minutes. Warm oil flows better.
3. Elevate your car - jack up, put on ramps, or drive on a curb.
4. Loosen your oil filler cap and partially pull your dipstick out. Suction inhibits the oil from easily draining out.
5. Set down your newspaper or old flattened cardboard box underneath your car. This will eliminate the mess from the inevitable oil spillage.
6. Set the oil catcher underneath your oil pan.
7. Loosen the bolt on your oil pan using the 15mm socket. Your old oil should drain quickly.
8. Once the draining oil has slowed to a drip, wipe up the mess as best as you can and put the oil pan bolt back in. Don�t over tighten, but certainly don't under tighten.
9. Locate your oil filter and slide your oil catcher underneath the filter. Be mindful of your hot exhaust pipes.
10. Loosen and remove your oil filter and let it drain. If it's too tight, use an oil filter wrench to loosen it. There's a considerable amount of oil in your filter, so beware. Clean all areas, especially any rubber that may have gotten oil on it.
11. Once drained, examine your old filter and make sure the gasket came off with the filter. If you�re not sure, compare the new and old filters and make sure they look the same.
12. Clean the surfaces of old oil. Apply new oil to the gasket of the new oil filter. Pour some new oil into your filter 1/4 - 1/3 full should do. Begin threading the new oil filter on, making note of when the gasket makes contact with the metal surface. Tighten ~1 full turn after gasket contact.
13. Pull out and clean your dipstick. Remove your oil filler cap and clean it. Pour 6 full quarts into your engine. Put your dipstick back in and replace your oil filler cap.
14. Check for leaks under the car. If there are no leaks, start the car and let it run for a minute or two. Turn it off and look for any leaks. Tightening the oil pan bolt or the filter may be necessary - remember that it may be too hot to work on for a few minutes.
15. Repeat every 3,000 to 5,000 miles.
Total Time: 20 minutes + clean up
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Joined: Sep 2000
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Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
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Let me be the first to crap on this post by saying:
[insert slam]
IF YOU NEED A HOW TO FOR OIL CHANGING YOU ARE A LOST CAUSE.
[/end insertion]
'nuff said.
2000 SVT #674
13.47 @ 102 - All Motor!
It was not broke; Yet I fixed it anyway.
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Joined: Aug 2002
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You have to change the oil!????
Chris G.
~ 98 Mystique LS ATX
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Joined: Dec 2003
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Ah, c'mon Demon. There are plenty of folks out there who are simply afraid to even touch their cars. If a "how-to" for an oil change helps get their foot in the door of home auto maintenance, then cheerios to it. I'm sure there are plenty of people who have used this how-to or other how-to's on this site, who would have otherwise simply taken it to some slack jawed nincompoop who doesn't know his oil pan drain plug from his tranny drain plug. Not trying to fight ya here, but this how-to can be considered a "gateway" how-to, henceforth and visa vis leading to more home auto maintenance/wrenching.
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Joined: Apr 2002
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The dealer has done every oil change on my car since it was new. For $16.95, I'm not EVEN going to get dirty by crawling under my car and changing my own oil. Plus, I don't have to figure out what to do with the old oil, since there aren't any recycling places around here anymore.
-Mark-
'99 Mystique LS, totally original (including the original water pump and the premium stereo)! Bought new in December 1998 for $21,000.
208,000 miles
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Joined: Dec 2003
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Hard-core CEG\'er
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Well that's fine and good, but really, I don't think I even touch a drop of oil during this maintenance. Plus I use latex gloves so my hands don't get stained, if and when I do (mainly the old filter removal). And I've heard far too many horror stories of that ONE time when some kid forgot to actually fill the car with oil after he drained it, or didn't tighten the drain plug enough, or tightened too much...so on and so forth. Really, it's MY car, and I like to know how to work on it. As I'm sure many members of this site do, or perhaps might WANT to do, which is what these how-to's are for.
Last edited by PlatoSVT; 06/03/05 05:57 AM.
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Joined: Sep 2000
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Hard-core CEG'er
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Originally posted by Antiramie:
You have to change the oil!????
I know, I know. 
I was just told about this last week myself.
Good thing I changed the engine a year & a half ago and had to put new oil in it.
2000 SVT #674
13.47 @ 102 - All Motor!
It was not broke; Yet I fixed it anyway.
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Joined: Aug 2001
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Originally posted by DemonSVT:
Originally posted by Antiramie:
You have to change the oil!????
I know, I know.
I was just told about this last week myself.
Good thing I changed the engine a year & a half ago and had to put new oil in it.
You can afford new oil.. i woulda just used that there old oil myself. I rekon it woulda had a couple years if not more left in it i tell ya.
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Joined: Jun 2004
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Originally posted by Beachboy:
$16.95
What do they put back in? My 5qts of Mobil1 = $19.87, just bought it last night, looking at receipt...
2000 Mystique LS
Duratec 2.5L MTX
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Originally posted by Tisby:
Originally posted by Beachboy:
$16.95
What do they put back in? My 5qts of Mobil1 = $19.87, just bought it last night, looking at receipt...
If he's doing perfectly regular oil changes on a non-SVT Duratec that probably doesn't see high RPM's, there's no need for him to go synthetic. We all know the arguments for and against, but plain and simple, the proof is in the pudding, and he's at 175,000 miles, so it's pretty obvious that good 'ol dino oil works just fine.
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