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Originally posted by warmonger:
[censored], you think you have it bad?

Try 3L's with 50%increase in airflow....and the fuel that sucks along with it.




I dont feel sorry for you with your fancy shmancy 3L turbo

I would give up the mileage any day of the week!


#4559 of 6535 born on Feb 17, 1998 Black 1998.5 CSVT FOR SALE [cleaning house]: SVT rear swaybar. Reasonable offer and its yours!
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Originally posted by tour96se:
while i have the lim off i'll take a stiff brush to the head ports,esp the secondaries,and scrape off the carbon buildup,now using a shop vac(theres a attachment that fits perfectly in the head)i suck all of the carbon out,once this is done i take some seafoam or valvoline tb cleaner and spray done the heads again,again using the shop vac if i used alot of cleaner. makeing sure it evaporates or dries before i start it,or you'll throw misfire codes........imho cleaning the uim/lim/tb is only half the job,if the heads are clogged up the improved breathing of the intake isnt being fully realised...




I just did this over the weekend too. I found a stiff brush at home depot that scraped all the carbon off the secondary port walls without needing any cleaner. The secondary ports always get gunked up worse than anything else.

A few other things I've learned after doing the cleaning for 3 times:

- A faster way of removing the LIM is to just disconnect the fuel lines and pull the whole thing out, with injectors and rail still attached. This way you don't need to replace the o-rings either.

To clean the UIM, just turn it upside down and pour liquid berrymans in it, and gently rock it back and forth. Then clean the port openings with a spray can of berrymans and a brush. I did this with the TB still attached to keep the fluids in. If you use liquid berrymans, it's strong enough to remove all the buildup by just "swishing" it around in the UIM.

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I appreciate this thread, thanks to Ray for taking the time to prepare the documentation, ad to Lance and Carl for the original one.

I have a question... How long does the job take, kind of on average. I know it varies by a lot of stuff, but how long are you guys spending? 5 hours? 3 hours? 24 hours?

Looking at it looks like an all day job, maybe spread over to a 2nd morning so reassembly is done when fresh, not tired.

Thanks!
Scott

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If you can allocate that much time to it, by all means, do so.


If you encountered NO snags (broken vacuum hose, stripped bolts, snapped bolt, drop something in to the heads, etc) then you can remove and replace the UIM/LIM and intake in 30 minutes out (less if experienced) and 45-1hour in..

The longest part is cleaning, and will take a minimum of 3 hours, and by all means if you can allocate an overnight SOAK in berryman's, etc, then GO FOR IT!!! make it easy on yourself.

Either way.. a perfect run, look at about 6 hours for inexperienced first-timers.


Just don't overtighten the UIM bolts.. the specs are in IN/lbs.


Ray


'99 CSVT - Silver #222/276 In a constant state of blow-off euphoria.
Originally posted by Kremitthefrog:
I like to wear dresses and use binoculars to watch grandmas across the street.


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i spent the better part of a day with mine. i took my sweet time making sure i didnt fugg something up. my injectors gave me quite the fight, they wanted to stay put in that LIM. i think i took 3 breaks trying to get them out, coming inside to search CEG to see if i was doing something wrong all of this time i was letting the UIM soak.

if its your first time, just set aside a day when you can devote yourself to it. being rushed could mean CELs are in your future. . .


#4559 of 6535 born on Feb 17, 1998 Black 1998.5 CSVT FOR SALE [cleaning house]: SVT rear swaybar. Reasonable offer and its yours!
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Thanks guys, that is as I expected. I'm a good friend of the CEL what with the 420 error, lean errors, dpfe errors, and what not. Sure, I have 10 posts, but I've been on the mailing list since 99 and bought the car (98 se sport) in 00. Not as much a newbie as my status implies.

I expected it to be something I could tear through as Ray suggested, but which could also benefit from some time. I'm handy with a wrench, built a race car, rebuild a few SB and BB Fords. And a 12a Rotary. Off to find some gaskets, o rings, and the like...

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Quick note on the throttle body gasket part number in the site how-to (F5DZ-9E936-AE). If you're ordering just by part numbers, this gets you the SVT throttle body gasket, not the normal Duratec one.


"Think of it, if you like, as a librarian with a G-string under the tweed." Clarkson on the Mondeo.
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Since there are so many replies throughout this thread, I updated the top to reflect that the part number is an SVT gasket. (incase people don't read through each and every post. Thanks for pointing that out.


Ray


'99 CSVT - Silver #222/276 In a constant state of blow-off euphoria.
Originally posted by Kremitthefrog:
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Originally posted by Jeb Hoge:
Quick note on the throttle body gasket part number in the site how-to (F5DZ-9E936-AE). If you're ordering just by part numbers, this gets you the SVT throttle body gasket, not the normal Duratec one.




DooH!!! Yeah i figured it out, when my TB gasket didnt match too well, i guess now i have a TB gasket for sale.


~Crystian 2000 Se sport 2001 Lightning(Sorry!your mom cant come with us)
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Read through this several times now - very informative !
Should note that the upper intake gaskets are now superceded with F5RZ-9H486-BA and the standard Duratec TB gasket is F5RZ-9E936-A .

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