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OK I just swapped a 2002 focus engine into my 96 mystique. The engine had 8k miles when installed and now has 9k miles. I already picked up a T3 turbo for $30 that needs a rebuild due to slight shaft play. I also picked up a good sized intercooler for $20 off of a dodge daytona that is in excellent shape and clean inside and out. First off the turbo I need new turbine shaft bearings and the turbine shaft seal and the dynamic compressor seal. These items are pictured in this kit http://www.saabperformanceparts.com/item107.htmdo I need the other items in the kit as well besides the O-rings. I don't believe the two rubber o-rings move so I could even use gasket maker, but I am not going to!!! This turbo is internally balanced so no balancing is required when done.
ATX MTX swap, rear drum disc swap, drilled rotors, ported intake, optim throttle body, CAI, 7.5L MAF, adj. fuel regulator, longtube headers, underdrive pulley, no EGR, low inpedence bigger injectors, 2002 Focus Swap
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Good luck and don't blow it up like the last engine. 
Hector
2003 Rally Red Mitsubishi Evolution VIII
257HP/259TQ
2005 Lapis Blue Mazda 6s
RET: 00 Cabernet Red Ford Contour Zetec ATX SUPERCHARGED
160HP/141TQ
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Dang $30!?! Awesome deal. I'm looking at getting a rebuilt T3 Super60 for $420 (with internal wastegate). If I were you, I would get all of the rebuild parts. Heck, even if you spend $300 on parts, you have still spent 1/2 as much as a new one. BP
Ben ---'96 Contour GL * Zetec ATX * Tan on Black steelies---
+++JRSC M62 Under Construction+++
My big-a$$ mod list. 
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Well I have half dissasembled the turbo and cleaned up the aluminum housings. There is shaft play but no oil appears to have leaked yet, but it definately needs the rebuild. The turbo does have an internal wastegate. A friend of mine is giving me his recirc valve from his 2nd gen eclipse, I know they aren't very good but it work good below 8psi and its free. Lots of little things to do and buy. For the oil return I thought of an interesting idea. We all know how hard it is to remove our oil pans. So what if I Y-piped the dip stick instead. Its in the right area and would be really simple to do. This would maintain dip stick accuracy/useability and save a lot of time and effort installing a fitting into the oil pan. As far a rebuilding the turbo when I turboed my neon I was able to buy a new turbo center section for $100 on ebay. O2 sensors won't be an issue as there are two sensor bungs on the exhaust housing of the turbo. Along with the turbo I got two silicone couplers and several hose clamps plus oil drain tube intake aluminum elbow ect. I am going to use hard brake line for the oil supply but I need help finding a good spot to supply the turbo with oil. Any ideas? I also need suggestions for mounting the intercooler. I will try to post pics as I can.
ATX MTX swap, rear drum disc swap, drilled rotors, ported intake, optim throttle body, CAI, 7.5L MAF, adj. fuel regulator, longtube headers, underdrive pulley, no EGR, low inpedence bigger injectors, 2002 Focus Swap
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OK I have two of the seals on the way now for the bearings. Got the seals for $31
ATX MTX swap, rear drum disc swap, drilled rotors, ported intake, optim throttle body, CAI, 7.5L MAF, adj. fuel regulator, longtube headers, underdrive pulley, no EGR, low inpedence bigger injectors, 2002 Focus Swap
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I found this pic on one of the Focus boards...  Pretty darn perfect, eh? I checked my '96 Zetec block and the oil feed location is there. It just has a plug in it with a torx top. The best thing is you may be able to find a braided Focus hose pretty cheap. HTH, BP
Ben ---'96 Contour GL * Zetec ATX * Tan on Black steelies---
+++JRSC M62 Under Construction+++
My big-a$$ mod list.
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Thankyou very much that is exactly the pic I was looking for 
ATX MTX swap, rear drum disc swap, drilled rotors, ported intake, optim throttle body, CAI, 7.5L MAF, adj. fuel regulator, longtube headers, underdrive pulley, no EGR, low inpedence bigger injectors, 2002 Focus Swap
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Cool, glad I could help. So how are you going to tune your system? I'm probably going to go and get the SCT Pro Race setup. It's pricey but it looks like the only way to go. (Unless you have a friend with a dyno.)
Now that I look at that pic again... Why didn't those guys just use some 1/2" spacers to get the coil pack bracket away from the block? It seems like hacking up the bracket is a sloppy way of doing things. Especially if you already have the EGR pipe removed from underneath it.
Good idea about the dip stick tube. How big is it at the bottom? I'd be worried if it's less than 1/2" I.D. I think that's the reccomended return size.
BTW, I can't help with intercooling mounting tips. I've got a Spearco 2-252 water to air unit.
BP
Last edited by ButtonPuncher; 05/03/05 10:23 PM.
Ben ---'96 Contour GL * Zetec ATX * Tan on Black steelies---
+++JRSC M62 Under Construction+++
My big-a$$ mod list.
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We have a 5/8" return line. You don't want oil backing up into the system and I've had the dip stick tube pop out under boost, I wouldn't want oil returning there. Taking off the oil pan and welding a bung for the return line is universally considered best. You could buy a spare one cheap and do that to make the downtime less, that's what my dad did. That pic is good, you can also use a T at the oil pressure sensor. There's also a sunken hex bolt/thing near the oil filter that would give you oil. My dad just made his own Focus turbo kit, he also used the stock manifold, but he bolted the adapter not welded it. That way if the manifold ever cracks, you can swap out a new one easy. Though, as long as you add a brace to compensate for the extra weight of the turbo, the stock unit is pretty sturdy. Also flows decently, one guy hit 300whp with 14psi, 65shot and race gas, with the stock manifold. You'll find the crank position sensor will be in the way a bit with an internal wastegate. We made a small flange to re-mount the wastegate away a bit for our first kit, then my dad figured out all you need to do is make a new plug for the wires so it's slimmer and it will work. I wrote a turbo FAQ for my Cougar boards a while back. The info is a year old or so and some new things have come up, but mainly it's all you need ot know. The boards reset a few months ago and all the FAQs were lost. I haven't had a chance to rebuild it, but google has the pages in it's cache. Page 1 Page 2 Some info that's a bit outdated: Pro-M is out of business I believe. TurboTom now recommends blow-through mafs, not suck thru like he used to. So get either a Musgang GT MAF or Cobra, a Lightning would be a bit too big. A few Foci have hit 300whp on 91-93 octane. The JRSC fits our engines with mild mods, the Vortech won't.
2000 Rio Red I4 Cougar
200whp & 210wtq at 9psi
254whp & 276wtq with NX 35shot
WRX TD04 Turbo, Cut Short Shifter, Strut Tower Bar, 17" ZN Wheels, Roush Springs, Starion Intercooler, NX 35 shot, HKS SS BOV, Full 3" exhaust,StreetFlight Chip
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Awesome! Thanks for the info. I was wondering where the heck your FAQ went.
Now you've got me wondering... Why blow-through MAF?
I also find it VERY interesting that you gain more than 50HP with only a 35 shot of NOX. That is very cool. (no pun intended)
96mercury, I swear I'm not trying to hijack your thread. I just can't help myself. This is just all so exciting.
Later,
Ben
Ben ---'96 Contour GL * Zetec ATX * Tan on Black steelies---
+++JRSC M62 Under Construction+++
My big-a$$ mod list.
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If you blow-thru, you get a more acurate air intake temp, if your MAF has the temp sensor in it, than draw-thru. Also you can put a BOV in without having any stalling problems. You can get around the temp issue by just wiring an external temp sensor and putting it after after the intercooler. The stalling issue isn't fixable, but a little careful driving helps keep you from stalling.
Forget the HP, look at the TQ figure. Yeah, nitrous is weird with a turbo. Because it is cool and you're compressing the air, you get more power than if you juiced just NA.
2000 Rio Red I4 Cougar
200whp & 210wtq at 9psi
254whp & 276wtq with NX 35shot
WRX TD04 Turbo, Cut Short Shifter, Strut Tower Bar, 17" ZN Wheels, Roush Springs, Starion Intercooler, NX 35 shot, HKS SS BOV, Full 3" exhaust,StreetFlight Chip
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Originally posted by Seawulf:
The stalling issue isn't fixable, but a little careful driving helps keep you from stalling.
So are you saying that the stalling isn't fixable with a draw-through and a BOV...but that a blow-through with a BOV has no stalling problems? Or the stalling can't be prevented in either situation?
I was originally thinking of using a bypass system with a draw-through MAF. I'm guessing that a blow-through MAF with a BOV would be cheaper and easier.
BTW, 66ft-lbs!?! That's amazing. When are you triggering the nitrous?
BP
Ben ---'96 Contour GL * Zetec ATX * Tan on Black steelies---
+++JRSC M62 Under Construction+++
My big-a$$ mod list.
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OK good info everyone I moved my radiator forward a about 1.25 inches and I am going to install a slimmer fan for more room as well. I need to do this for my turbo to clear everything. I got my oil lines today and the rest of the fittings. I began work on the exhaust manifold then ran out of welding wire. I made the flange for the turbo as well. The rest of the turbo rebuild kit is on the way, courtesy of ebay. I made the flange by drawing it out first on my computer using Inventor. I got my oil return hose and heater hose since I am going to water cool this turbo. I took out the rest of my AC stuff minus the compressor for clearance issues. I read on Focus Fanatics that it was much more difficult to tune a blow through MAF then a suck through, details anyone? Yes the stall issue with a blow off valve can be fixed DSM turbos have the same problem and the SAFC2 has a DEC air function that is supposed to compensate.
ATX MTX swap, rear drum disc swap, drilled rotors, ported intake, optim throttle body, CAI, 7.5L MAF, adj. fuel regulator, longtube headers, underdrive pulley, no EGR, low inpedence bigger injectors, 2002 Focus Swap
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As far as tuning, I have a MAF from a 460 V8 that is just over 3" in diameter. I also am using low impedence injectors from a 2.2 turbo, low impedence injectors work better for forced inductions applications and in general as the injector gets bigger. I am also running an SAFC2 which the cars computer hasn't relearned. I also have an aeromotive FPR with a 1:1 rising rate to add one pound of fuel pressure for every pund of boost. Th MAF should detect the extra incoming air. When I ran a data logger it only showed 3 volts max at WOT. As for the Intake temp sensor I am going to place that after the turbo and before the intercooler so the computer thinks the air is hotter then it is so that it will retard the timing some.
ATX MTX swap, rear drum disc swap, drilled rotors, ported intake, optim throttle body, CAI, 7.5L MAF, adj. fuel regulator, longtube headers, underdrive pulley, no EGR, low inpedence bigger injectors, 2002 Focus Swap
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Hey could I relocate the battery to the trunk and use that area to mount my intercooler? It seams like the only place that would work because the front of the bumper won't work without serious hacking.
ATX MTX swap, rear drum disc swap, drilled rotors, ported intake, optim throttle body, CAI, 7.5L MAF, adj. fuel regulator, longtube headers, underdrive pulley, no EGR, low inpedence bigger injectors, 2002 Focus Swap
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It sure makes a whole lotta room...  I also got rid of my A/C and re-routed the battery wiring. (Not in this pic.) But I thought you had an air-air intercooler? Or are you going to get a hood scoop? BP
Ben ---'96 Contour GL * Zetec ATX * Tan on Black steelies---
+++JRSC M62 Under Construction+++
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Careful with messing with your MAFs and Injectors. You've already blown one engine NA by messing with MAFs and fuel. The room for error boosted is much slimmer.
How much bigger do you need? 42lb/hr high impedence have done 300whp with a little extra fuel pressure and you won't need to get a injector driver. They highest they sell, high impedence, is around 50-55lb/hr though.
What the heck is a 460 MAF? Do you mean a Mustang GT 4.6L V8 MAF? Read the FAQ. Bigger injectors and a bigger MAF = MORE TIMING. The ECU looks at the MAF volts as it's main load and timing calculator. I had 42s and a 70MM MAF calibrated for them and pulled a constant 30* spark advance. More timing = a blown engine as in exploded.
No way should you put the intercooler in the engine bay unless you have a scoop there and have the cooler facing up, kind of a side/top mount. I say hack away and put it in the bumper.
My nitrous run was done only once. We pulled 4.5* of timing across the board and hit the juice at around 4500rpms(a bit late but I was worried about a backfire). Only had a bit of a misfire and still got great numbers on arizona 91 octane and 9psi. My tuner felt the timing was still a bit conservative so after over 10 hrs on the dyno and tired as heck I thought why not. Added back the 4.5* and BOOM blew the motor on the next shot.
Be careful. Doing a turbo on the cheap is easy. But doing the fuel and timing on the cheap will cost you more in the long run.
2000 Rio Red I4 Cougar
200whp & 210wtq at 9psi
254whp & 276wtq with NX 35shot
WRX TD04 Turbo, Cut Short Shifter, Strut Tower Bar, 17" ZN Wheels, Roush Springs, Starion Intercooler, NX 35 shot, HKS SS BOV, Full 3" exhaust,StreetFlight Chip
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A 460 is a 7.5liter V8 found in many ford trucks, thats what I got the MAF from. I don't need high impedenace injectors as I am have converted to low impedence injectors. Yes you are right about the timing issue with bigger MAF I noticed that with my buddies data logger. I plan on putting the IAT sensor before the intercooler and after the turbo so it reads higher intake temps then it really is getting in an attempt to retard the timing. If that doesn't prove effective on the data logger then I can always increase the resistance as well by adding a resistor in series with the IAT sensor. With the other hardware I already have there wouldn't be much to gain from a chip that I don't already have other then timing control. I hate the idea of hacking up the bumper but I don't think I have much choice, I just don't want it to look jimmy rigged.
ATX MTX swap, rear drum disc swap, drilled rotors, ported intake, optim throttle body, CAI, 7.5L MAF, adj. fuel regulator, longtube headers, underdrive pulley, no EGR, low inpedence bigger injectors, 2002 Focus Swap
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Once upon a time I had my MAF tube in an awkward possition due to a boost leak and a rearanging of my intercooler piping to convert the car back to NA so I could limp home.
I saw 150F air intake temps cause the filter was right by the radiator fan and I got a check engine light for "Air Intake Temp too Hot" or something like that. Odds are you could see 200F+ temps before the intercooler and a resistor will probably make that worse.
At least go for a timing box like, or better yet exactly like the J&S Safeguard. It can retard your timing when under boost and/or at certain RPMs. It can also retard timing when it senses deto. Every Focus guy who has one swears by it.
EDIT: What a chip "gains" you is safety. Also the ability to be in total control of your ECU. You can move the rev limiter, the speed limiter, get rid of check enginelights for no CAT, EGR, etc... Up to 50hp more the Zetec is fairly sturdy. I just slapped my first turbo setup on with no tuning, a crappy intercooler(same as yours) and a lousy downpipe and still ran it for over 20000mi. More than 50hp and 5psi though, and you need serious tuning.
Last edited by Seawulf; 05/05/05 12:21 AM.
2000 Rio Red I4 Cougar
200whp & 210wtq at 9psi
254whp & 276wtq with NX 35shot
WRX TD04 Turbo, Cut Short Shifter, Strut Tower Bar, 17" ZN Wheels, Roush Springs, Starion Intercooler, NX 35 shot, HKS SS BOV, Full 3" exhaust,StreetFlight Chip
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Well sounds like I will need to get a timing retard box of some kind instead. I don't have a cat and have no codes for it since I have a resistor inline with the downstream O2 and I have no EGR since I tricked the ecu there too. Speed limiter can be bypassed if it is setup like my neon was and just splits with one wire for the speedo and one for the ecu. I don't want a higher rev limiter with stock internals and turbo. The intercooler I got looks good but does anyone know what the specs are on it? I used a DSM side mount on my neon with no problems and it had smaller input and output tubes and less surface area then this one. Also on the neon I used exhaust tubing for the intercooler lines from the turbo to the intercooler and ABS pipe afterwards which to everyones amazement didn't melt. The car that my turbo came from didn't even have an intercooler so I wonder just how high these intake temps are going to be? I am going to look at hacking the bumper again but I still don't think there is room enough to make it look good. I might have to get an air to water intercooler which means more $$$. I got two new fans today, one is going to be mounted as a pusher fan in front of the radiator on the passenger side and the other is going to be mounted like normal on the drivers side. I got these fans because they are slimmer then factory. One appears to be a SLimline fan that sells in Summit Racing catalogs for over $150 and I got them both for $20 at the wrecking yard.
ATX MTX swap, rear drum disc swap, drilled rotors, ported intake, optim throttle body, CAI, 7.5L MAF, adj. fuel regulator, longtube headers, underdrive pulley, no EGR, low inpedence bigger injectors, 2002 Focus Swap
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You definately need a chip. Save up and spend money on the SCT proracer package it will give you the ability to change anything in the computer including: PATs, injectors, turn lower 02's off, adjust AF ratio, adjust timing, turn traction control off, adjust fan temps, and data log everything. Anything you can think of can be changed with the SCT software. All of these piggy back systems are going to be a major pain in the @ss. If you ever sell this car you can put the stock tune back in and use the package for another car or pay for another database.
1999 3.0L Cougar: 220fwhp and 200tq
2003 VW Passat W8 with 4 Motion AWD
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/300644
PM for intrest in 3L SVT Contours, 3L swaps into your current car, Prepped 3L engines, or anything 3L related.
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There are so many things in that ECU that your resistors will not change.
2001 Lincoln LS8
1994 Lexus GS300
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We got the turbo to fit with the stock fans. My dad also got his turbo to fit his Focus with it's stock fans and there's less clearance between his engine block and fans than my Cougar. The Cougar and Contour have the same chasiss. I got a FMIC, you should be able too...no? Here's a pic of my old intercooler.  We mounted it in the engine bay first, but ultimately it was just a big heat sink. Still did 146whp and 156wtq with the stock fuel and ECU. I wanted bigger so I got this, a Starion intercooler.  Here's a side by side comparison:  Twice as many fins and about twice as big, though not quite as thick. ULtimately I still think the Starion is a bit small and if I had to do it over I would have shelled out $300+ for a nice, new big intercooler. It was fine for my dad's purposes, but he remade the end tanks for smoother flow.  It fit perfectly inside the Focus bumper, he painted it black for a stealth look. With that and a tiny IHI RHB5 off a old subaru, he did 136whp and 150tq at 5.5psi on a mustang dyno with a safe tune. He also had stock airbox and stock exhaust. Exhaust pipe is fine for intercooler piping. I made my piping out of it after finding this site: http://home.earthlink.net/~turbogus2/cooler.htmlI think his prices there are a bit dated though. Still, it was so obvious to do it like that we would have never thought it up on our own. As for your turbo's donor car not having a cooler....factory turbo cars have forged rods and pistons and lower compression so they can withstand deto better. Also OEMs are cheap and typically go with the minimum they can get away with. The Zetec's compression is too high and the rods, pistons, and rings too weak to run boost without a cooler, unless you know your tuning. The only guy on the focaljet I know running 9psi, non-intercooled has a Pectel stand-alone for engine managment and he's a former Ford engineer and tuned his car from scratch. He also open tracks it a lot. http://home.earthlink.net/~turbogus2/intercoolers.htmlThis guy also did a test of intercooler air resistance using a simple water pressure scale and leaf blower to see how much resistance was seen when air was blown through certain coolers. The dodge cooler had the second worst resistance or the second worse flow. That's why I wanted to ditch it and get a new one. Though modifying it like my dad did to have the end tanks flow straight in/out instead of those lousy bends will improve flow a bit. Eithe way, like I said, if I had it to do over again, I'd have spend serious money on a good FMIC.
2000 Rio Red I4 Cougar
200whp & 210wtq at 9psi
254whp & 276wtq with NX 35shot
WRX TD04 Turbo, Cut Short Shifter, Strut Tower Bar, 17" ZN Wheels, Roush Springs, Starion Intercooler, NX 35 shot, HKS SS BOV, Full 3" exhaust,StreetFlight Chip
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Well reality is I will probably never sell this car for a couple of reasons. #1 being its old and has a really low resale value. Some piggy back systems are good some are bad. I tuned my neon with an SAFC and it was speed density which is much harder to tune for a turbo IMO. Sure you can control other things with a special chip, but I already have an installed SAFC2 why would I get rid of it when it works fine. Many people have turbo setups that work fine with the safc but some don't. I will just have to start rich. Some people have got the safc to work fine and others haven't. The main advantage of the SAFC is the ability to make changes on the fly and it stores two data files and can adjust for blow off valves so the engine doesn't stall. I will need a timing retard box for sure. Do a search about mounting an intercooler on these cars most people have gone with water/air intercoolers. That IHI turbo is much smaller then my Garret T3 so I am impressed with the numbers considering how hot the intake charge must have been. I have considered mounting my intercooler as a side mount on the drivers side similar to what DSM's do on the passenegr side, that would expose about 3 feet of intercooler piping to air in front before it even reached the intercooler then cut holes in the back of the fender liner for air flow and use some fans mounted to the intercooler to keep airflow up. I wonder why the dodge intercooler has such bad flow?
ATX MTX swap, rear drum disc swap, drilled rotors, ported intake, optim throttle body, CAI, 7.5L MAF, adj. fuel regulator, longtube headers, underdrive pulley, no EGR, low inpedence bigger injectors, 2002 Focus Swap
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I'm thinking it's mainly the design of the end tanks. Just bad bends making for bad flow.
2000 Rio Red I4 Cougar
200whp & 210wtq at 9psi
254whp & 276wtq with NX 35shot
WRX TD04 Turbo, Cut Short Shifter, Strut Tower Bar, 17" ZN Wheels, Roush Springs, Starion Intercooler, NX 35 shot, HKS SS BOV, Full 3" exhaust,StreetFlight Chip
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I tried looking through the intercooler and it seemed to be a much different design then the inside of the DSM intercooler I had on my neon. The DSM intercooler had rectangular tubes from one end tand to the other with cooling fins between on the outside. This intercooler is the same except it has cooling fins inside the rectangular tubes as well as on the outside. IMO this is probably why the flow is so much less, but that mesh would certainly increase the cooling capacity of the intercooler at the cost of air flow. Basically the same trade off that occurs with a much larger intercooler. Does this make sense? BTW finished taking apart the turbo and cleaning it out. The new bearings and seals should be here in a few days. Does anyone have a drawing of the inside of a T3 turbo because I believe this one is missing a seal on the air side.
ATX MTX swap, rear drum disc swap, drilled rotors, ported intake, optim throttle body, CAI, 7.5L MAF, adj. fuel regulator, longtube headers, underdrive pulley, no EGR, low inpedence bigger injectors, 2002 Focus Swap
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The SAFC2 is unacceptable for tuning boost. I know I did it on a Contour. I also used a MSD digital BTM to control timing. This was before Ford Chips. Once you dial it in at 7psi it will not compensate for higher boost levels. You will be stuck there. Also, there is no stalling if you tune a chip correctly. Don't half ass this or your engine is going to blow. Please trust me on this I've tuned a couple of boosted Fords.
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Originally posted by Keyser:
The SAFC2 is unacceptable for tuning boost. I know I did it on a Contour. I also used a MSD digital BTM to control timing. This was before Ford Chips. Once you dial it in at 7psi it will not compensate for higher boost levels. You will be stuck there. Also, there is no stalling if you tune a chip correctly. Don't half ass this or your engine is going to blow. Please trust me on this I've tuned a couple of boosted Fords.
^^^^^^^^^^^^ Listen!!!!!
Chris is the man when it comes to tuning this platform bar none!
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A SAFC2 can be made to work no problem IF it is setup properly. You have to start with bigger injectors and uping the fuel pressure to about 60psi, similar to what VWs run stock. Then you can use the safc to add plenty of fuel when necessary by widening the injector pulsewidth. Sure plenty of people have ruined motors with an SAFC but they didn't have it setup right. Why is it limited to the 7 psi of boost, is it due to the stock MAF cus I don't have a stock MAF? This has been done successfully before and can be done again. Remember everyone saying that the focus engine coulnd't be transplanted into a tour for cheap. I did and it runs fine. Also according to msn carpoint the focus engine has a slightly bogger bore and shorter stroke making it more boost friendly. I believe you had problems with your setup but that doesn't mean I will, just except that not everyone has the sae experience as the last guy. I appreciate the advice but do realize this car is going to be mine until it is worn out so resale isn't an issue, I don't have emmissions here either. My only problem will be timing which we have already discussed. Now about spark plugs, does anyone have any suggestions? I know they need to be copper and colder plugs but how much colder, gap, any actual part #s ect? I prefer NGK plugs for boost as they seam to be more foul resistant.
ATX MTX swap, rear drum disc swap, drilled rotors, ported intake, optim throttle body, CAI, 7.5L MAF, adj. fuel regulator, longtube headers, underdrive pulley, no EGR, low inpedence bigger injectors, 2002 Focus Swap
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Originally posted by 96mercury:
A SAFC2 can be made to work no problem IF it is setup properly. You have to start with bigger injectors and uping the fuel pressure to about 60psi, similar to what VWs run stock. Then you can use the safc to add plenty of fuel when necessary by widening the injector pulsewidth. Sure plenty of people have ruined motors with an SAFC but they didn't have it setup right. Why is it limited to the 7 psi of boost, is it due to the stock MAF cus I don't have a stock MAF? This has been done successfully before and can be done again. Remember everyone saying that the focus engine coulnd't be transplanted into a tour for cheap. I did and it runs fine. Also according to msn carpoint the focus engine has a slightly bogger bore and shorter stroke making it more boost friendly. I believe you had problems with your setup but that doesn't mean I will, just except that not everyone has the sae experience as the last guy. I appreciate the advice but do realize this car is going to be mine until it is worn out so resale isn't an issue, I don't have emmissions here either. My only problem will be timing which we have already discussed. Now about spark plugs, does anyone have any suggestions? I know they need to be copper and colder plugs but how much colder, gap, any actual part #s ect? I prefer NGK plugs for boost as they seam to be more foul resistant.
It's like talking to a brick wall when it comes to you! 
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Zetec plugs are kind of weird. They have a long reach into the cylinder and almost no other plugs have the same threads and reach. The only stock replacements that are copper and colder are Motorcraft AZFS22C. They are copper and one step colder. They are a bit hard to find and usually will have to be ordered from the dealer for around $12-15 for the set. Basically, one step colder for every 40-50hp. But again, only one step is availiable over the counter. You can get custom plugs up to five steps colder at www.focus-power.com, but they cost $50 a set, they are machined by hand. You mean like you said your MAF and fuel pressure mod was just fine and a week later you blew your engine? While your quick engine swap was impressive, the need to do it wasn't surprising to me because of what you were doing. Becareful. Read the FAQ.
2000 Rio Red I4 Cougar
200whp & 210wtq at 9psi
254whp & 276wtq with NX 35shot
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7psi was an example. You can only trick your maf at one setting. Raise the boost and the AFC will not compensate like a mass air meter will. Truly, you should not tune your own car because you have no real concept of how to do this correctly. Deceiving your sensors will end up biting you in the ass. You have a cheap, effective stand alone computer in your car called and EEC V. Take advantage of it, find a local SCT tuner at www.sctflash.com and get it dyno tuned properly. Sadly, I know you won't because of some kind of pride in doing it yourself. Get over it. You will need help with this if you want some kind of longevity.
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Please refrain from insults when you don't even know what I do or don't know. Keyser why do you feel the need to insult me have I insulted you? Insults like that is what a little child says when they don't get their way. Your obviously a grown up so stop it. Statements like its about pride when its about reality. I don't have tons of extra cash to just throw away, notice how you guys drive SVTs and I drive a zetec, if I did have tons of cash I would just buy a predone kit which would have no pride whatsoever. Just because I don't agree 100% with everything you say doesn't mean your talking to a brick wall. Remarks like that are just ridiculous and serve no helpful purpose whatsoever. I wonder if people actually have read the entire post before they say stuff, I already stated that I won't be going over 7psi most likely not over 5 for the time being. When/if I do I can upgrade. I still appreciate all the advice I have been given even if I don't agree 100% No one here besides sleeperz has actually met me. You don't know me so don't make assumptions. I was the first to do a 5 speed swap and for cheap when everyone said it wasn't worth it. I was the first to do a focus swap and for cheap. As far as needing the focus engine it was in all reality probably destroyed from too much ignition advance due to the larger MAF, thats why I need an ignition box to control the timing. Now if you would like to help me in this endeavor I would appreciate it, just realize that we aren't always going to agree on everything and if we don't agree oh well. People have been using SAFC computers to tune for turbos for a couple of years now with great success.
ATX MTX swap, rear drum disc swap, drilled rotors, ported intake, optim throttle body, CAI, 7.5L MAF, adj. fuel regulator, longtube headers, underdrive pulley, no EGR, low inpedence bigger injectors, 2002 Focus Swap
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Seawulf Thank you that is the kind of help I appreciate. Notice how he gives me the information I asked for and SUGGESTS that I be careful and read the FAQ. He didn't get ticked off and insult me when I disagreed.
ATX MTX swap, rear drum disc swap, drilled rotors, ported intake, optim throttle body, CAI, 7.5L MAF, adj. fuel regulator, longtube headers, underdrive pulley, no EGR, low inpedence bigger injectors, 2002 Focus Swap
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If your skin is that thin that you took that as an insult then I don't think I can help you. It was reality not insults. I already did what you want to do and it was WRONG. I've been there with the AFC and timing box. Don't throw all this time, money and effort away because you won't spend an extra couple hundred bucks over all the resistors, AFC and timing box/tach adapter you bought. How much did that new motor cost you just had to put in? Do it correctly or you are likely to repeat the past.
Disclaimer: All comments herein are intended for the sole purpose of education and assistance and should not be consider offensive or demeaning in any way.
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Keyser I like your disclaimer Well I am glad it wasn't an insult. So why did I have such luck with my neon and tuning it with an safc? It was a 96 dohc neon that I added the same type of turbo too. I will admit that I cracked one of the neons pistons but never had a problem again after I lowered the compression to 8.6:1 still using OEM pistons just a thick headgasket that cost $100 shipped. Lots of mazda guys are using SAFC and honda guys ect and mazdas use a MAF too. They all reccomend the SAFC too, so why the discrepency?
ATX MTX swap, rear drum disc swap, drilled rotors, ported intake, optim throttle body, CAI, 7.5L MAF, adj. fuel regulator, longtube headers, underdrive pulley, no EGR, low inpedence bigger injectors, 2002 Focus Swap
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Because they don't have a free stand alone computer in their car. The mazda computer may be an EEC but the strategy is yet to cracked. I can make any car run great WOT most of the time with bolt on parts, but a truly good tune will run like factory all the time and will be safe. NO check engine lights unless their is a problem is a wonderful thing. It also helps with emissions if that is an issue. There is also a feature in your EEC called aircharge WOT multiplier. What is does is monitors air flow and if it gets too high the EEC freaks out. You also have some emission switches like cat temp flange sensor that will dump fuel like mad in WOT to compensate for Cat temperature. There is neutral and decel idle air control so no stall issue. Also dashpot decay rate that will control the engine flare between shifts if it becomes a problem. The list goes on and on but you will be better off with a tune. I'd have to pull up your ECU code to know specifically what you have. They are all different.
I charge $425 for a FI tune including dyno time and the chip out here in Phoenix. I know I'm on the cheap side so expect to find prices between that and $700 on the high side.
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$425 is amazingly cheap!!! If I could find it for that price I would probably just do it. But I am in OREGON  The cat dump fuel strategy is probably why my fuel map on the safc goes from 6000rpm +8% 6500rpm +5% to 7000rpm +/-0% otherwise the O2 readings just go way rich. This may sound ignorant but does your setup just plug directly into the ecu or do you program a chip that the plugs into the ecu. BTW are you with the company that turboed that 1st gen legend a year or two ago?
ATX MTX swap, rear drum disc swap, drilled rotors, ported intake, optim throttle body, CAI, 7.5L MAF, adj. fuel regulator, longtube headers, underdrive pulley, no EGR, low inpedence bigger injectors, 2002 Focus Swap
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What size injectors are you using? I see you want to use low impedence injectors.
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http://www.sctflash.com/main.php In the upper right corner there's a box to type in your zip code and find some tuners in your area. Got to be one near ya.
2000 Rio Red I4 Cougar
200whp & 210wtq at 9psi
254whp & 276wtq with NX 35shot
WRX TD04 Turbo, Cut Short Shifter, Strut Tower Bar, 17" ZN Wheels, Roush Springs, Starion Intercooler, NX 35 shot, HKS SS BOV, Full 3" exhaust,StreetFlight Chip
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There are flasher versions or chip versions. The flasher tune was $50 cheaper last time I had it done but it is permanent unless you have the software. That may be a good thing though. It means you'll never have connection issues with the chip.
1999 3.0L Cougar: 220fwhp and 200tq
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Closest one is in WA other then a ford dealer which I will have to call. I would prefer the permanent tune over a chip. Thanks for the link I will see what the dealer says.
ATX MTX swap, rear drum disc swap, drilled rotors, ported intake, optim throttle body, CAI, 7.5L MAF, adj. fuel regulator, longtube headers, underdrive pulley, no EGR, low inpedence bigger injectors, 2002 Focus Swap
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Ok I moved the battery to the trunk using 2awg welding wire with pre fitted ends so it looks really heavy duty/clean. I also installed a vac/boost gauge.
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Exhaust manifold has been finished. Now it is a direct bolt on between the head and turbo. The exhaust points in the right direction too I am thinking the modified factory focus manifold should flow better then a log style turbo manifold. I welded all of the exterior head flange to header pipe joints to add some strength and seriously reinforced the area between the turbo flange and head flange so that I don't have to worry about having enough support to hold the turbo. I ordered a new turbo center section because even with new bearings my turbo still has a lot of side to side play so the journals are just too worn out. I have 6 different silicone couplings now all straight pieces some that adapt different pipe sized and I picked up some intercooler piping from a few volvos. One piece is a perfect fit to hold the IAT sensor and elbow into the throttle body.
ATX MTX swap, rear drum disc swap, drilled rotors, ported intake, optim throttle body, CAI, 7.5L MAF, adj. fuel regulator, longtube headers, underdrive pulley, no EGR, low inpedence bigger injectors, 2002 Focus Swap
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Originally posted by 96mercury:
I am thinking the modified factory focus manifold should flow better then a log style turbo manifold.
I'm thinking that as well. If the stock one doesn't flow that great, you could always mod one of the aftermarket Focus shorty headers.
Dang dude you are moving fast. I'm back to saving more money before my turbo project can continue. 
I can't wait to see your system up and running.
Later,
Ben
Ben ---'96 Contour GL * Zetec ATX * Tan on Black steelies---
+++JRSC M62 Under Construction+++
My big-a$$ mod list.
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OK I installed the oil catch can/seperator using the same method that SLeeperz did and it looks really good. Thanks again for the how-to on that sleeperz I also installed the PCV for a 88 thunderbird turbo 2.3. I bought it from the dealer because all of the aftermarket ones would blow both ways while the factory one acted like a one wya valve which should prevent/reduce boost from entering the crank case. I ordered one step colder copper plugs from the dealer today only $4 a piece. I think I need to set them at .040 for the turbo? Any recommendations on oil? I used Mobil one tri-synthetic on my turbo neon and it seamed to work the best. I am going to get a guy from school to re-work the end tanks on my intercooler so that they point in the right direction to reduce the need for multiple bends.
ATX MTX swap, rear drum disc swap, drilled rotors, ported intake, optim throttle body, CAI, 7.5L MAF, adj. fuel regulator, longtube headers, underdrive pulley, no EGR, low inpedence bigger injectors, 2002 Focus Swap
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I use mobile i synthetic, not sure if it's tri-synth or whatever, 5w-30. I have mine gapped around .04, but it depends on how much boost and if your ignition is weak. I had them down to .030 under nitrous and there were still a few misfires. At least .045 and see how it goes.
2000 Rio Red I4 Cougar
200whp & 210wtq at 9psi
254whp & 276wtq with NX 35shot
WRX TD04 Turbo, Cut Short Shifter, Strut Tower Bar, 17" ZN Wheels, Roush Springs, Starion Intercooler, NX 35 shot, HKS SS BOV, Full 3" exhaust,StreetFlight Chip
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Seawulf thanks So my coil is practically new with only 9k miles on it now think I should be ok with .04? Also correct me if I am wrong but the smaller the gap the the colder then plug is in a way correct? Also too small of a gap and the plug won't fire becasue the flame will get snuffed out? Thanks.
ATX MTX swap, rear drum disc swap, drilled rotors, ported intake, optim throttle body, CAI, 7.5L MAF, adj. fuel regulator, longtube headers, underdrive pulley, no EGR, low inpedence bigger injectors, 2002 Focus Swap
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No, too small a gap won't cause a misfire I think. My gap at .30 was misfiring because it was still too wide and the cylinder pressure and fuel mix was still blowing out the spark at a few spots in the rev band. I was running a fuel mix of high 10s. I heard of one Focus needing a gap 0f .025 at around 200whp cause it's coil was weak. I don't know about that smaller equals colder.
2000 Rio Red I4 Cougar
200whp & 210wtq at 9psi
254whp & 276wtq with NX 35shot
WRX TD04 Turbo, Cut Short Shifter, Strut Tower Bar, 17" ZN Wheels, Roush Springs, Starion Intercooler, NX 35 shot, HKS SS BOV, Full 3" exhaust,StreetFlight Chip
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I thought a smaller gap was to avoid spark blowout, which is more prone to larger gapped plugs? 
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Gap size has nothing to do with a plug's heat range.
Decreasing the gap size is a way to increase the energy of the spark kernel which makes it harder to "blow out" under the greater cylinder pressure of forced induction.
The .035 range is a typical gap to start with.
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OK good sound slike we got it straight now. So I will set the plugs for .035 to start with. I just picked them up from the dealer today. 1 range colder and copper instead of platinum.
ATX MTX swap, rear drum disc swap, drilled rotors, ported intake, optim throttle body, CAI, 7.5L MAF, adj. fuel regulator, longtube headers, underdrive pulley, no EGR, low inpedence bigger injectors, 2002 Focus Swap
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Took a look at the intercooler again, there is no way its going to work as a side mount due to serious unibody in the way which would sacrifice crash strength. So I am going to mount it in the bumper under the license plate and a friend of mine can weld aluminum so he is going to modify one of the endtanks. This will hopefully not be too obvious or ugly when done. I had the turbo manifold surfaced today and added mounting studs for the turbo to ease installation.
ATX MTX swap, rear drum disc swap, drilled rotors, ported intake, optim throttle body, CAI, 7.5L MAF, adj. fuel regulator, longtube headers, underdrive pulley, no EGR, low inpedence bigger injectors, 2002 Focus Swap
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You want as wide a gap as you can get to help burn all the fuel properly, the wider the gap, the longer the spark. Mainly for efficiency when you're out of boost. Most Focus people recommend .045, but that's dependent on a lot of factors. Even .040 is a pretty narrow gap and should be good for 5-7psi. Most would say if you have to run under .040, you should look to upgrade your ignition or wires.
Right now, I'm running .040 at 9psi and it feels fine. I don't push the car hard though, especially now that gas is so expensive.
2000 Rio Red I4 Cougar
200whp & 210wtq at 9psi
254whp & 276wtq with NX 35shot
WRX TD04 Turbo, Cut Short Shifter, Strut Tower Bar, 17" ZN Wheels, Roush Springs, Starion Intercooler, NX 35 shot, HKS SS BOV, Full 3" exhaust,StreetFlight Chip
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Originally posted by DemonSVT:
Gap size has nothing to do with a plug's heat range.
Decreasing the gap size is a way to increase the energy of the spark kernel which makes it harder to "blow out" under the greater cylinder pressure of forced induction.
The .035 range is a typical gap to start with.
Correct on the first point but.......
Here's my take on the whole thing:
Reducing the gap doesn't increase the energy of the spark, it only allows the dielectric effect to be reduced enough for spark to form again. It actually decreases the ability of the spark to ignite the charge due to the reduced area and will eventually reduce the energy of the spark when you shorten the gap too far. The closer the anode is to the cathode, the less voltage required current to jump the airgap. An extreme example is to bend the prong until it touches the electrode. When it touches it is considered a short...lots of current flows but no spark.
The ignition system can produce some theoretical maximum energy, we'll call it TE for total energy. In this example
TE= Egap + Epres.
Egap varies with distance and Epres (or dielectric const) would vary on charge density in the cylinder.
If you drop one without raising the other you get a lower spark energy. IF you drop Egap too far and raise Edieletric to far, you have too little area for the spark to ignite the charge.
A wider gap is best when possible!
Wider gap requires lots more potential for the current to jump the gap. Air is an insulator (so is fuel) so that also makes it harder for the spark to jump the gap. If you increase the boost you are increasing the insulation effect, added more dielectric material between the anode and cathode. This also requires more voltage to jump the gap. The extreme example in this case is you pack so much air and fuel into a cylinder that it would be the same as sticking a piece of insulation between the electrodes.
Conclusions:
Spark isn't "blown out", it fails to jump the gap. The gap is decreased to compensate for increased dielectric effect under the new cylinder pressure. This in turn results in a smaller area for the spark to ignite the charge and eventually results in a lower energy spark when the gap gets too close.
Best to leave the gap stock unless you misfire, then only decrease it by a few thousandths each time until the misfire goes away.
OR, get higher energy ignition and leave the gap stock.
I have run .045-.050" almost the whole time I have been turbo with the exception of when I first put it together. AT that time I ran .035-.040" under other peoples advice because I had no first hand experience then.
It worked well enough when warm, but a few misfires on cold mornings taught me the lesson that the gap was too short to properly ignite the fuel on cold mornings.
I run .045" now as a rule since our ignition system is quite strong stock. No issues with misfires related to spark.
Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760
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Thats an awesome explanation Makes perfect sense to me.
ATX MTX swap, rear drum disc swap, drilled rotors, ported intake, optim throttle body, CAI, 7.5L MAF, adj. fuel regulator, longtube headers, underdrive pulley, no EGR, low inpedence bigger injectors, 2002 Focus Swap
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OK I got an OBX BOV today while I was in portland OR for $50. Its easily adjustable by just rotating the top and is suppose to produce 115db.
ATX MTX swap, rear drum disc swap, drilled rotors, ported intake, optim throttle body, CAI, 7.5L MAF, adj. fuel regulator, longtube headers, underdrive pulley, no EGR, low inpedence bigger injectors, 2002 Focus Swap
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Finally got the intercooler installed. I went with my original plan and did a side mount like a mitsubishi does. It required cutting of the subframe and lots of reinforcement. But there should be plenty of air flow now as the part of the fender well has been removed and air is directed in from underneath and through the factory fog lamp area that has been enlarged. probably not as great as a front mount but I am sure it is within 90% of that. For the most part it still appears to be 100% stock from the outside even with my 2.5" exhaust I also found a way to bolt the fuse box back down now that the battery is in the trunk. Now I need to really start looking at the intercooler piping. Can anyone reccomend a flexible piping for some of the more difficult areas, besides radiator hose?
ATX MTX swap, rear drum disc swap, drilled rotors, ported intake, optim throttle body, CAI, 7.5L MAF, adj. fuel regulator, longtube headers, underdrive pulley, no EGR, low inpedence bigger injectors, 2002 Focus Swap
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CHeck out this article http://www.nissanperformancemag.com/february05/qg/thats the kind of intercooler I have. So yes it flows less but cools better then a comparible tube and fine intercooler of the same size. Which is good because there isn't much room for a big intercooler on these cars.
ATX MTX swap, rear drum disc swap, drilled rotors, ported intake, optim throttle body, CAI, 7.5L MAF, adj. fuel regulator, longtube headers, underdrive pulley, no EGR, low inpedence bigger injectors, 2002 Focus Swap
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OK I got the intercooler piping installed to the intercooler. I also got the BOV installed. I used all aluminum mandrel tubing and a 16" section of steel pipe so that I could weld the BOV flange on. It looks really nice. I also used high torque clamps.
ATX MTX swap, rear drum disc swap, drilled rotors, ported intake, optim throttle body, CAI, 7.5L MAF, adj. fuel regulator, longtube headers, underdrive pulley, no EGR, low inpedence bigger injectors, 2002 Focus Swap
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Lets see some pics!! 
Ben ---'96 Contour GL * Zetec ATX * Tan on Black steelies---
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Any pictures of the completed piping yet?
Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760
356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas!
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'06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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nope not yet, pics are kinda rare from me if anyone has noticed because I have to borrow my sisters camera and wait for her to email me the pics. But I will post the finished product when it is done. BTW I think my O2 sensor is dead with only 17k miles on it as it will 'stick' at a voltage and not start moving until you down shift to slow down then it starts working again. Its a bosch, anyone reccomend a better one?
ATX MTX swap, rear drum disc swap, drilled rotors, ported intake, optim throttle body, CAI, 7.5L MAF, adj. fuel regulator, longtube headers, underdrive pulley, no EGR, low inpedence bigger injectors, 2002 Focus Swap
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I dunno. I thought that Bosch was really good when it came to O2 sensors.
Have you been noticing any white smoke? Coolant can kill an O2 sensor REAL quick.
BP
Ben ---'96 Contour GL * Zetec ATX * Tan on Black steelies---
+++JRSC M62 Under Construction+++
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No white smoke at all and oil is fine so is the coolant, plugs look good too. But I am wondering if my old engine may have damaged it when it cracked and started blowing unburned oil straight out the exhaust. I know some dsm tuners only use the factory denso O2 sensor cus they say it is better then bosch but I am not sure. My factory downstream motorcraft O2 sensor is still working perfectly with 164k miles which is amazing to me.
ATX MTX swap, rear drum disc swap, drilled rotors, ported intake, optim throttle body, CAI, 7.5L MAF, adj. fuel regulator, longtube headers, underdrive pulley, no EGR, low inpedence bigger injectors, 2002 Focus Swap
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OK I installed a new bosch O2 and I won't know if it works better until tomorrow when I go to school. I also installed my colder copper plugs with .045" gap and put 15w50 synthetic oil in. I prepped more intake tubing. Now as soon as my centersection actually arrives I can install the actual turbo. So far I do have quite a bit of time into it but I have had to do lots of custom work and fabbing of piping brackets ect. I have been using a lot of hose clamps and recommend the tridon stainless stell clamps at a minimum and if $$$ allows use the 10mm locknut band style available from napa for about $3.50 a piece.
ATX MTX swap, rear drum disc swap, drilled rotors, ported intake, optim throttle body, CAI, 7.5L MAF, adj. fuel regulator, longtube headers, underdrive pulley, no EGR, low inpedence bigger injectors, 2002 Focus Swap
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Cool. 
Ben ---'96 Contour GL * Zetec ATX * Tan on Black steelies---
+++JRSC M62 Under Construction+++
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15W-50? I hope you live somewhere that's REALLY warm like the southwest cos that some thick-ass oil!
2000 SVT Turbo 295hp/269ftlb@12psi
#1 for Bendix Brakes Kits!
Knuckles rebuilt w/new bearings $55
AUSSIE ENDLINKS $70
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A lack of planning on your part does not constitute an emergency on mine!
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Actually I don't live anywhere really warm, but this is the oil that Tom uses at focus fanatics, he is an expert when it comes to turboing the zetec. It will help protect the turbo bearings more when really hot.
ATX MTX swap, rear drum disc swap, drilled rotors, ported intake, optim throttle body, CAI, 7.5L MAF, adj. fuel regulator, longtube headers, underdrive pulley, no EGR, low inpedence bigger injectors, 2002 Focus Swap
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Wow!
And you guys thought I was bad.....
Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760
356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas!
See My Mods
'05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red
'06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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Warmonger what is that supposed to mean? Anyway I finally got the center section today, reassembled the turbo and have been orienting things in the correct direction. Once I have some free time it will be installed
ATX MTX swap, rear drum disc swap, drilled rotors, ported intake, optim throttle body, CAI, 7.5L MAF, adj. fuel regulator, longtube headers, underdrive pulley, no EGR, low inpedence bigger injectors, 2002 Focus Swap
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Nothing really. I barely escaped with my testicles over an argument that in really hot climates it was ok to run 20w-50 oil. The thing was I was in the bottom of Arizona and Texas and I also had photos of rod bearings and cams to back up the claims of no damage after 30K miles on that weight oil. In the winter I would run 10w-40.
Right now I run 10w-40 with the turbo most of the year.
Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760
356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas!
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'05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red
'06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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Thats what DSM guys run the 10w40, I m using the 15w50 becuase that is what tom uses he is known in the focus community about turbos the same way terry haines is known here for trannys. He knows his stuff.
ATX MTX swap, rear drum disc swap, drilled rotors, ported intake, optim throttle body, CAI, 7.5L MAF, adj. fuel regulator, longtube headers, underdrive pulley, no EGR, low inpedence bigger injectors, 2002 Focus Swap
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I got boost !!!!! I got it installed tonight and I am really excited. No pinging or lean conditions with my primative tuning setup It sounds awesome and looks really good for a homemade kit. The turbo barely fit but it looks like it was meant to be where it is. I will need to raise my idle somehow because it likes to die when I put the clutch in even after going downhill with no boost or gas, but it doesn't die if I hold the gas pedal just a little bit. Anyway it is an awesome feeling and I am proud of it. Pics will come with time.
ATX MTX swap, rear drum disc swap, drilled rotors, ported intake, optim throttle body, CAI, 7.5L MAF, adj. fuel regulator, longtube headers, underdrive pulley, no EGR, low inpedence bigger injectors, 2002 Focus Swap
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It shouldn't be dying that easy. What kind of BOV do you have? Is it bypass or blow off?
I do stall a few times from shifting to neutral from speed, but I avoid that by staying in gear and slowing down that way. Typically I'll downshift a few times as well, and by the time I come to a stop and put it in neutral it's fine. It also helps fuel economy since the injectors cut off with the clutch in and the throttle closed, decelerating in gear.
Congrats on the install and how much boost you pushing and what do you have for fuel right now. I've run 5-6psi with no extra fuel for tens of thousands of miles, but don't rev much past 5000rpm till you get it properly rich.
2000 Rio Red I4 Cougar
200whp & 210wtq at 9psi
254whp & 276wtq with NX 35shot
WRX TD04 Turbo, Cut Short Shifter, Strut Tower Bar, 17" ZN Wheels, Roush Springs, Starion Intercooler, NX 35 shot, HKS SS BOV, Full 3" exhaust,StreetFlight Chip
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Originally posted by 96mercury:
I got boost !!!!!
Woohoo! Congratulations!! That was pretty darn quick.
Are you using a pull-through or blow-through MAF?
BP
Ben ---'96 Contour GL * Zetec ATX * Tan on Black steelies---
+++JRSC M62 Under Construction+++
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I put 200+ miles on the setup today with no major problems or failures. Today was 93 degrees so it was hot for this area. I am running a draw through MAF setup. I can keep it from dying just the way seawulf described. On the otherhand I had a vacuum hose pop off and although the boost wasn't as high when that happened it didn't die nearly as often so I think the cure might be to slightly raise the idle because if I give it just a hint of gas it doesn't die. I am only running 4psi right now because I don't have a boost controller, but I will probably make a ball and spring one out of stuff from a hardware store shortly. I have wired my two radiator fans to be on whenever the engine is on that way the temp gauge never goes past the R of normal. I had to zip tie several coils of the spring for the blow-off valve so that I wouldn't get compressor surge. I had to set the DEC-CEL function on the SAFC to 20% so that it didn't go rich when the blow off valve went off. Anyway it is LOTS of fun to drive and pulls REALLY HARD.
ATX MTX swap, rear drum disc swap, drilled rotors, ported intake, optim throttle body, CAI, 7.5L MAF, adj. fuel regulator, longtube headers, underdrive pulley, no EGR, low inpedence bigger injectors, 2002 Focus Swap
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if it runs with a vacuum line popped off, your idle is too rich. That can be from bigger injectors or a different MAF if you have not compensated for it.
DON'T adjust the idle set screw for the throttlebody! All that does is keep the throttle plate from scoring the aluminum housing and creating leaks later on.
If it otherwise runs fine, you may just need to do some easy fine tuning of the MAF with your SAFC.
Why the heck would you need to reduce the spring rate in your wastegate to prevent surging?
Also:
Why wire the fans on...does it run too hot with the extra hardware? Get an SVT radiator, I've never had an issue with mine.
You can use zip ties to keep your vacuum lines on, or hose clamps but zip ties are cheaper, easier and can be black so they match the hose.
Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760
356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas!
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I learned the zip tie trick for vacuum hoses on my turbo neon, works great and is CHEAP!, my problem was the hose split after two weeks of rubbing against something. I will try tuning more with the MAF to see what I can do about the idle. My BOV is adjuastable by rotating it, by compressing part of the spring I made it easier for it to open otherwise it won't open enough and it makes a psst sound that is broken up, with the spring compressed its a solid psst when I let off the gas. Also it seemed to spool up faster after this maybe because the BOV was doing its job better from preventing the back pressure when the throttle closes to severely slow down the turbine. Yes it did seam to be running a bit hot, on the otherhand the car always tends to run a bit hot and now with the turbo I want to keep it at a more appropriate level. Now the engine will stay around 180-185 degrees when idling for a long time, before it would just keep climing until 210 degrees and that is with the fans wired directly to the low speed fan relay. This climbing temp would severeley limit what a turbo timers effect would be in my opinion. Anyway I will be putting another 150 or so on it today. Also I am not sure if the SVTs had this problem or not, but the zetec contours seam to have an overheating problem, try searching the zetec maintenace forum and you will see what I am talking about. BTW no smoking and the oil looks good.
ATX MTX swap, rear drum disc swap, drilled rotors, ported intake, optim throttle body, CAI, 7.5L MAF, adj. fuel regulator, longtube headers, underdrive pulley, no EGR, low inpedence bigger injectors, 2002 Focus Swap
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OK I was able to keep it from dying by adjusting the settings on my safc. The throttle engagement point for the dec-cel air function was not set. So now it now longer dies at all, remember this is with an open atmosphere BOV and a draw MAF through system. Now I am way too rich when the car first terns on when it is cold and as soon as it reaches the normal temp it isn't too rich anymore. Anyway to fix that problem? Also anyone familiar with the safc knows that there is a hi and lo throttle position adjustment per rpm and it is averaged between the two depending on position. Anyway anything above 60% throttle is way too rich and my hi throttle fuel map adjustment occurs at 65% so tomorrow I am going to try increasing that to see if it helps.
ATX MTX swap, rear drum disc swap, drilled rotors, ported intake, optim throttle body, CAI, 7.5L MAF, adj. fuel regulator, longtube headers, underdrive pulley, no EGR, low inpedence bigger injectors, 2002 Focus Swap
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The S-AFC HAS NO POSSIBLE way of keeping any tune that is not WOT. Don't even bother trying. Seriously. It's time to get to a dyno that has the capability of burning you a custom chip. A Mustang dyno would be preferrable because it can tune more accurately and at any rpm points & throttle positions besides "just " WOT.
2000 SVT #674
13.47 @ 102 - All Motor!
It was not broke; Yet I fixed it anyway.
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Do you still have your stock thermostat? I've got a 170.
2000 Rio Red I4 Cougar
200whp & 210wtq at 9psi
254whp & 276wtq with NX 35shot
WRX TD04 Turbo, Cut Short Shifter, Strut Tower Bar, 17" ZN Wheels, Roush Springs, Starion Intercooler, NX 35 shot, HKS SS BOV, Full 3" exhaust,StreetFlight Chip
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This engine..........BOOOOOOOOOOOOOMMMMMMMMMM!!!!!!! 
Hector
2003 Rally Red Mitsubishi Evolution VIII
257HP/259TQ
2005 Lapis Blue Mazda 6s
RET: 00 Cabernet Red Ford Contour Zetec ATX SUPERCHARGED
160HP/141TQ
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You can tune it with an emanage but it takes a bit of practice. I can scale back the whole maf curve over every throttle position and rpm. However, you still need dyno time to figure out where the hell you are at as a base to operate from and of course you know it has a limited range where it can tune the MAF.
Your advice to just dyno tune a chip is the best of course. Let's see if he does it.
Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760
356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas!
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'06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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Well I have already decided to get it dyno tuned with a sct setup. There are just too many variables that the safc cannot take care of. Now I just need to save the money for the tune. DemonSVT you have been mis-informed the safc is not just for WOT tunning, what gave you the idea it was? If it was just for WOT tuning the car would barely run with my bigger injectors and MAF. I saw a package on tom's website for $500 that includes unlimited tunes via internet for 6 months with a programmer, I just have to include what my setup is for a base safe tune then dyno it and tom can send you a revised tune after viewing the dyno. For $500 it looks like a good deal but there is still dyno time. Hector my engine is way too rich right now and only running 4psi of boost at the moment so why would it go boom? My bets are that your atx will go boom before my engine Just kidding Hector. Anyway I put the factory contour 180 degree thermostat in to replace the 192 degree focus one. I was told on Focus Fanatics that the 170 is too cold and there are lots of turbo zetec focus's on that site.
ATX MTX swap, rear drum disc swap, drilled rotors, ported intake, optim throttle body, CAI, 7.5L MAF, adj. fuel regulator, longtube headers, underdrive pulley, no EGR, low inpedence bigger injectors, 2002 Focus Swap
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Originally posted by 96mercury:
DemonSVT you have been mis-informed the safc is not just for WOT tunning, what gave you the idea it was? If it was just for WOT tuning the car would barely run with my bigger injectors and MAF.
The S-AFC is capable on making large scale changes to the non-WOT fuel trim but any changes made at moderate or lower levels will be effectively tuned out by the PCM.
The PCM is fully adaptive when not at high load and WOT.
Tuning like that is like target shooting with a shot gun. It may get you in the general vacinity but it's going to be all over the place.
It also makes all the PCM changes much less accurate and efficient because you are playing havoc with the load calculation and it's tables. The PCM is going to be using all the wrong load scaling and calculations because you are so drastically altering the MAF signal.
So you are the one mislead because you don't understand the full picture.
I have an S-AFC btw. Also full datalogging and full self tuning ability as well. Food for thought...
2000 SVT #674
13.47 @ 102 - All Motor!
It was not broke; Yet I fixed it anyway.
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Demon-svt hmm good point. Just gonna have to save my $$$. To get it tuned right. When I make changes to the SAFC it seams to have an effect throughout the RPM range, but I have noticed the changes aren't very accurate. I understand what you are saying but on the other hand it seams to be taking away fuel and adding it when I tell it to. Can you explain why I can tell a difference even when not at WOT? Maybe the V6 computers behave differently then the 4cyl when the maf signal is modified? I apppreciate the explanations. Right now I am running richer then needed to be safe. Its just amazing to me how small changes to the safc setup can effect the performance of the car, I can only imagine what a correct tune would do. I checked the plugs today and no sign of detenation and it has been over 400 miles now in turbo form. Tomorrow I am going to build a ball and spring boost controller like what I had on my neon so I can do more then 4psi, I will try 5 and then maybe 6 and recheck the plugs and keep an eye on how rich the system is and detenation. I can hook my safc to log the knock but I just need to hook the wires up, this might be helpful to avoid engine damage.
ATX MTX swap, rear drum disc swap, drilled rotors, ported intake, optim throttle body, CAI, 7.5L MAF, adj. fuel regulator, longtube headers, underdrive pulley, no EGR, low inpedence bigger injectors, 2002 Focus Swap
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Running really rich isn't safe either.
Hector
2003 Rally Red Mitsubishi Evolution VIII
257HP/259TQ
2005 Lapis Blue Mazda 6s
RET: 00 Cabernet Red Ford Contour Zetec ATX SUPERCHARGED
160HP/141TQ
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Well, not for the catalytic converter anyway....nor the oil and I guess in the long run then not good for the motor.
Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760
356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas!
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'06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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Well its not that ecessively rich, but yeah I don't have a cat I adjusted it some more and it seams to not be too rich through all rpms except when I first start it in the morning when its cold. I wish there was a way to solve that problem for the time being. Before I can do that I have to fix my driver's side window as it no longer rolls up.
ATX MTX swap, rear drum disc swap, drilled rotors, ported intake, optim throttle body, CAI, 7.5L MAF, adj. fuel regulator, longtube headers, underdrive pulley, no EGR, low inpedence bigger injectors, 2002 Focus Swap
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do you have any pics of said turbo setup..i'm interested to see how it fits in there..i might be picking up a 5spd zetec for cheap..
"Youth ages, immaturity is outgrown, ignorance can be educated, and drunkenness sobered, but STUPID lasts forever."-Aristophanes.
--93 pgt,headers,intake,borla=14.9 1/4mile
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I am going to get pics soon I promise, but my only way to get them is to borrow my sister's camera. So it may be a while.
ATX MTX swap, rear drum disc swap, drilled rotors, ported intake, optim throttle body, CAI, 7.5L MAF, adj. fuel regulator, longtube headers, underdrive pulley, no EGR, low inpedence bigger injectors, 2002 Focus Swap
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Update, its still running great. I am afraid to boost it anyhigher until I get it tuned right, but its so much fun to show the local rice cars whats up, at the track of course
ATX MTX swap, rear drum disc swap, drilled rotors, ported intake, optim throttle body, CAI, 7.5L MAF, adj. fuel regulator, longtube headers, underdrive pulley, no EGR, low inpedence bigger injectors, 2002 Focus Swap
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Are you seriously running that huge MAF, bigger injectors, variable fuel pressure, the AFC and boost?
If so I wouldn't do that. You're timing will be way off. Untill you get it tuned right, that huge MAF isn't properly matched to those injectors. Just keep the stock MAF on there for now. It should do 4psi easy and will give you an easier time for now.
2000 Rio Red I4 Cougar
200whp & 210wtq at 9psi
254whp & 276wtq with NX 35shot
WRX TD04 Turbo, Cut Short Shifter, Strut Tower Bar, 17" ZN Wheels, Roush Springs, Starion Intercooler, NX 35 shot, HKS SS BOV, Full 3" exhaust,StreetFlight Chip
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Yeah I am seriously running all of that stuff. I don't even have the stock maf housing anymore, maybe a trip to the yard for one. Cus I seriously don't want to ruin this engine. Assuming enough fuel what would be a safe psi to run with the stock maf?
ATX MTX swap, rear drum disc swap, drilled rotors, ported intake, optim throttle body, CAI, 7.5L MAF, adj. fuel regulator, longtube headers, underdrive pulley, no EGR, low inpedence bigger injectors, 2002 Focus Swap
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IIRC, 4 to 5psi, that's what Seawulf has said in the past. Do you have an OBD-2 scanner? I'm guessing that as long as you don't max it out, you should be OK. 170ish crank HP. Seawulf, feel free to correct me. I have a pretty crummy memory.  BP
Ben ---'96 Contour GL * Zetec ATX * Tan on Black steelies---
+++JRSC M62 Under Construction+++
My big-a$$ mod list.
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The amount of psi depends on the turbo. Typically 4-7psi depending on how much air it's flowing. On my stock wrx turbo at around 6psi I'd just hit 4.9v on the stock MAF.
That did 146whp and 170wtq on the stock fuel and ECU. My downpipe is 3" though and my exhaust was leaking at the flex pipe, but the exhaust was needing to be redone anyway.
Yeah, odds are your big MAF is messing up your whole setup causing you're poor fueling.
2000 Rio Red I4 Cougar
200whp & 210wtq at 9psi
254whp & 276wtq with NX 35shot
WRX TD04 Turbo, Cut Short Shifter, Strut Tower Bar, 17" ZN Wheels, Roush Springs, Starion Intercooler, NX 35 shot, HKS SS BOV, Full 3" exhaust,StreetFlight Chip
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Yeah its definately richer then it needs to be, I assume the downside of a stock MAF is the amount of air it can flow before it maxes out. I think returning to the stock size MAF is a bad idea considering I want to do more boost. I am just going to get this thing SCT tuned. I have had much better luck with my safc then anyone had predicted but I know it is at its limit for what I need. Now its time to save my $$$ and find a competent SCT tuner available locally. So far I haven't had any pinging but it would only take a little bit and the engine would be blown.
ATX MTX swap, rear drum disc swap, drilled rotors, ported intake, optim throttle body, CAI, 7.5L MAF, adj. fuel regulator, longtube headers, underdrive pulley, no EGR, low inpedence bigger injectors, 2002 Focus Swap
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Considering how easy it is to put the stock MAF and injectors back in, why not? That way you will have a fairly safe (low-boost) setup until you have the cash for the SCT stuff. With the stock MAF, you will know that your load values and spark advance won't be screwed up. Do you have a rising-rate fuel pressure regulator? You could leave that on there for added insurance. BTW, you probably could find a used MAF via www.car-part.com for around $20. HTH, BP
Ben ---'96 Contour GL * Zetec ATX * Tan on Black steelies---
+++JRSC M62 Under Construction+++
My big-a$$ mod list.
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Well I already have low impedence injectors factorys are high impedence. The harness has been modified to run the low impedence injectors without burning out the computer, so switching back to factorys would be a lot of work. Also what would I have to gain from switching back to the factory setup, I have just under 1000 miles now on the turbo setup without any pinging so why change what isn't broke. Its like you guys think I am having trouble getting enough fuel, which simply isn't the case. I am just going to wait and get it tuned rather then swapping stuff that won't provide nearly the fuel I need. Yes I have a rising rate regulator.
ATX MTX swap, rear drum disc swap, drilled rotors, ported intake, optim throttle body, CAI, 7.5L MAF, adj. fuel regulator, longtube headers, underdrive pulley, no EGR, low inpedence bigger injectors, 2002 Focus Swap
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The bigger MAF and bigger injectors mess up your timing tables, giving you MORE timing. Something you don't want under boost.
Don't put your stock injectors back on just your stock MAF. I don't think the AFC can compensate for a bigger MAF and you don't know exactly how the bigger MAF affects the voltage signal either. Use the SAFC or your fuel pressure regulator to get the injectors to give you the proper fuel. That still won't be perfect, but it will be better than having both a bigger MAF and injectors.
2000 Rio Red I4 Cougar
200whp & 210wtq at 9psi
254whp & 276wtq with NX 35shot
WRX TD04 Turbo, Cut Short Shifter, Strut Tower Bar, 17" ZN Wheels, Roush Springs, Starion Intercooler, NX 35 shot, HKS SS BOV, Full 3" exhaust,StreetFlight Chip
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Currently I am using the safc to increase the fuel because of the bigger MAF, unfortunately the bigger MAF does advance timing. I am wondering if the timing is based on the airflow signal wire that is modified by the safc or a seperate function altogether. The reason being is if the safc is increasing signal voltage to compensate for a bigger MAF and if the timing is also based off of that signal then shouldn't the timing values be lowered as well? That might explain why I haven't had any pinging yet. The system isn't excessively rich either so I know that isn't keeping it from pinging. Just a thought. Unfortunately even if the timing values are being adjusted with the MAF signal wire the bigger injectors don't require that the signal be modified enough to bring the values back to stock. Just a thought.
ATX MTX swap, rear drum disc swap, drilled rotors, ported intake, optim throttle body, CAI, 7.5L MAF, adj. fuel regulator, longtube headers, underdrive pulley, no EGR, low inpedence bigger injectors, 2002 Focus Swap
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"Youth ages, immaturity is outgrown, ignorance can be educated, and drunkenness sobered, but STUPID lasts forever."-Aristophanes.
--93 pgt,headers,intake,borla=14.9 1/4mile
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