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Hey guys, I am about to do a tune up and keep reading about the UIM and LIM cleaning? What exactly is this? Why does it need to be cleaned?> My car has 110k on it, V6 and automatic. Can you pay a shop to do this work?
Thanks
1997 Contour GL V6
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UIM means Upper Intake Manifold. LIM means Lower Intake Manifold. Cleaning means removing all the carbon. A shop can do this for you, or you can try some product like SeaFoam, which I have had good luck with.
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Matt
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1997 Contour GL V6
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a guy that i used to work for, who owns his own shop now uses the seafoam stuff....i think i am gonna give this a try at 65k on my car....thats only next week....i just dont feel like tearing the top part of the engine down unless i know something else cant be done....
oh and i got quoted like 40-50 bucks or something for the seafoam cleaning....not too bad if i must say so...
--Chris--
1999 Silver Frost SVT
#1671 of #2760
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for $50 they had better tear the whole intake apart and hand-clean the TB, UIM, and LIM.
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Originally posted by 95Sleeper: for $50 they had better tear the whole intake apart and hand-clean the TB, UIM, and LIM.
I disagree. That is a reasonable price for a shop. Many charge much more.
Of course you can save money if you do it yourself.
Jim Johnson
98 SVT
03 Escape Limited
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I agree, Jim.. good price, though still expensive when doing it yourself is a MUCH better gain, and gets the gaskets replaced while you are at it (avoiding unmetered air, CEL's being on, and codes being thrown, and performance being hurt, as well as gas mileage.. at 110k, they may very well need to be replaced!
I would charge about $60 plus gaskets, to do it by hand, FWIW.
Ray
'99 CSVT - Silver #222/276
In a constant state of blow-off euphoria.
Originally posted by Kremitthefrog: I like to wear dresses and use binoculars to watch grandmas across the street.
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Originally posted by Ray: I would charge about $60 plus gaskets, to do it by hand, FWIW.Ray
That's a bargin IMO, the job is worth more than that.
99 CSVT Green/Tan
# 84 of 2760
Built on Wednesday, September 30, 1998
15.376 @ 92.00 MPH Stock
75,000Km
96 Contour GL
2.5L V6 ATX 170,000Km
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certainly is.. and I have done this to a few local people in my area..
and I would certainly do it for anyone who wanted it done..
Ray
'99 CSVT - Silver #222/276
In a constant state of blow-off euphoria.
Originally posted by Kremitthefrog: I like to wear dresses and use binoculars to watch grandmas across the street.
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Dammmm and i thought i chagred a lot, without gaskets all i charge is lunch(a good one)
Team Evo
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But that's only because none of CEG is willing to pay you $60, unless it involves you staying the night in their room.. I'd probably do it for a GOOOOOOOD lunch... if they deserved it! lol Ray
'99 CSVT - Silver #222/276
In a constant state of blow-off euphoria.
Originally posted by Kremitthefrog: I like to wear dresses and use binoculars to watch grandmas across the street.
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Originally posted by csc99svt: a guy that i used to work for, who owns his own shop now uses the seafoam stuff....i think i am gonna give this a try at 65k on my car....thats only next week....i just dont feel like tearing the top part of the engine down unless i know something else cant be done....
oh and i got quoted like 40-50 bucks or something for the seafoam cleaning....not too bad if i must say so...
hey man i just asked if anyone here has tried seafoam in another thread...it is all the rage on the mustang forums...i am probably going to try it this weekend...
you can do it yourself...just let a vaccum line suck in about a third of the can until it stalls it out,let it sit for a few mins.,then start it up and drive it around and watch the smoke show....and pour the rest in your gas tank anfd your golden...
but if he's going to pull apart your uim and clean it off the car i'd say $50 is a good price...
i'll pm you after i do my stang and let you know how it worked...so hows married life treating ya man??????
new,new ride!
'99 svt
black/mnb
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'98 svt #800 sold!
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DO NOT let it suck it in until it stalls. I've done this procedure on my DSM enough to know not to do that. You need to run your engine at about 2500 to 3000 RPM, let the vacuum line sit in the can until it's gone. Modulate the RPM so that it doesn't die, but don't redline it either. You WILL get a large cloud out of it, but that's normal. After the can empties, turn the car off. Let it sit for about 10 to 15 minutes and then start it up and run the piss out of it until it stops smoking. It's also HIGHLY recommended that you change your oil and spark plugs afterwords. It made a world of difference on my DSM, my Mirage, and my Contour (before I sold it).
92 Talon TSi AWD
DSM= Daily Scheduled Maintenence
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Originally posted by Jason732: DO NOT let it suck it in until it stalls. I've done this procedure on my DSM enough to know not to do that. You need to run your engine at about 2500 to 3000 RPM, let the vacuum line sit in the can until it's gone. Modulate the RPM so that it doesn't die, but don't redline it either. You WILL get a large cloud out of it, but that's normal. After the can empties, turn the car off. Let it sit for about 10 to 15 minutes and then start it up and run the piss out of it until it stops smoking. It's also HIGHLY recommended that you change your oil and spark plugs afterwords. It made a world of difference on my DSM, my Mirage, and my Contour (before I sold it).
btw i didn't mean let it die immediately...you will have to give it enough throttle to keep it running long enough for it to suck in the 1/3 or half of the can,but after that it doesn't matter if you let it die or shut it off yourself,what's the difference?????it has to be shut off one way or another...
and actually changing your plugs is totally unnecessary.....what would be the point????????????????really oil doesn't have to be changed either for that matter(but it wouldn't hurt)..but plugs are totally unnecessary...the carbon that is being cleaned out is being burnt off hence the smoke...the smoke is the carbon being cleaned out...and if you add it to the oil then yes you should change it,but if not i wouldn't bother unless it was close to time for a change...
i am telling you this because i have done alot of research on this on the mustang boards....i've read probably over 100 cases of this being done and the plug changing afterward is totally unnecessary,and that comes from a few guys who bulid engines for a living,and know their stuff... and one guy who is a gm mechanic,who's shop does this on a daily basis apparently caddies and other gm's seem to get a premature bad carbon buildup....there is a very long thread on stangnet about this topic,and ALL of the guys in the know deemed it unnecessary to change plugs....
new,new ride!
'99 svt
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'98 svt #800 sold!
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First off, I want to say sorry for getting so completely off topic in this post...
Secondly, I respect your opinion and I don't have a problem with anything you put in your post. I'm not trying to start a flame war or anything. Let me give the reasons for what I said.
Originally posted by Jason732: It's also HIGHLY recommended that you change your oil and spark plugs afterwords.
Note the part in bold above...
Originally posted by chrisilversvt:
btw i didn't mean let it die immediately...you will have to give it enough throttle to keep it running long enough for it to suck in the 1/3 or half of the can,but after that it doesn't matter if you let it die or shut it off yourself,what's the difference?????it has to be shut off one way or another...
The potential (be it slight) for hydrolock is there. If you want to take the risk, have at it.
Originally posted by chrisilversvt:
and actually changing your plugs is totally unnecessary.....what would be the point????????????????
Because this procedure with seafoam *can* (and has, many times, on many vehicles) foul your plugs. Again, the risk is yours to take.
Originally posted by chrisilversvt:
...really oil doesn't have to be changed either for that matter...
Contaminated oil does not retain it's lubricating properties very long. If you have blowby, or if your valve seals/guides leak, then you run the risk of contaminating your oil. Once more, your choice on the risk factor.
Originally posted by chrisilversvt:
i am telling you this because i have done alot of research on this on the mustang boards....
That's cool and it's the responsible thing to do before you do it to your own car, but have you ever done it yourself and experienced any problems with it?
Originally posted by chrisilversvt:
ALL of the guys in the know deemed it unnecessary to change plugs....
I do this procedure on 2 different vehicles, once every 3000 miles or 3 months, whichever comes first. I am a guy in the know, and I don't deem it necessary, but I do HIGHLY recommend it, because I usually wind up with at least one fouled spark plug.
All I'm saying is that in my experience, I highly recommend that you change your oil and your spark plugs after running seafoam through your intake, because of the experience I've had with it.
It's all about how you want to treat your car. I like to have mine running great as much as possible, and I don't like to take chances, that's all...
92 Talon TSi AWD
DSM= Daily Scheduled Maintenence
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its cool man i was just trying to let people know it may not be necessary is all....i doubt people on here will do it that way anyway....most on here generally remove their uim/lim and clean them by hand anyway...i just didn't want to scare anybody away from doing it this way,because they don't want to have to do extra work..
btw i'll probably do mine in the next week or so and i'm not changing plugs afterward,i'll let you know the results...and don't worry about getting off topic on ceg,actuallty this is still on topic compared to most threads on here
new,new ride!
'99 svt
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'98 svt #800 sold!
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It is a great alternative to tearing out your intake manifold. My brother did it on his Explorer (with the 5 liter in it at 156,000 miles) and he said it was like driving a new car. Come to think of it, he didn't have any fouled plugs either, lucky bastage...
92 Talon TSi AWD
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maybe it works differently for different engines i don't know,it sux that it fouled out the plugs on your car.....my mileage isn't quite that high but it is over 100k...i am hoping to regain some lost power and a little bit of smoothness...we'll see hopefully i'll have time to do it this weekend..
new,new ride!
'99 svt
black/mnb
'95 mustang gt sold!
'98 svt #800 sold!
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i did the seafoam yesterday...all i can say is WOW!!!!!after all the praise i read about,i still figured it "might" help a little...boy was i ever surprised...it smoked quite a bit(guess i had alot of carbon built up)man but it felt like a whole new car the engine even sounded better,and pulls alot harder,and runs alot smoother...i would highly reccomend trying it to anyone...
new,new ride!
'99 svt
black/mnb
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Is this "seafoam" product available at regular autoparts stores?
I suppose after 150,000 miles it might be a good thing to try, especially with an "On-Track" event coming up in a couple weeks.
Bob Johann
SoundQ SVT
1998 T-Red SVT Contour #3088
2001 IASCA Pro Street 1-600 Champion
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Originally posted by SoundQ SVT: Is this "seafoam" product available at regular autoparts stores?
I suppose after 150,000 miles it might be a good thing to try, especially with an "On-Track" event coming up in a couple weeks.
yep got it at napa...i think all the parts stores carry it...it is in the aisle with the engine and trans. stuff...in a metal bottle...its only like $6.....
if you don't have time to take your uim/lim off to clean them...just let a vaccum line(such as the brake booster line)suck half of the can into your engine....you'll probably have to give it a bit of throttle to keep it running....then just shut the car off and let it sit a few minutes...then start it up and let it smoke then drive it around until the smoking stops...i poured the other half can into the gas tank.....
made my mustang with over 100k on it run alot smoother,and better,it even sounds better...
new,new ride!
'99 svt
black/mnb
'95 mustang gt sold!
'98 svt #800 sold!
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Originally posted by chrisilversvt: Originally posted by SoundQ SVT: Is this "seafoam" product available at regular autoparts stores?
I suppose after 150,000 miles it might be a good thing to try, especially with an "On-Track" event coming up in a couple weeks.
yep got it at napa...i think all the parts stores carry it...it is in the aisle with the engine and trans. stuff...in a metal bottle...its only like $6.....
if you don't have time to take your uim/lim off to clean them...just let a vaccum line(such as the brake booster line)suck half of the can into your engine....you'll probably have to give it a bit of throttle to keep it running....then just shut the car off and let it sit a few minutes...then start it up and let it smoke then drive it around until the smoking stops...i poured the other half can into the gas tank.....
made my mustang with over 100k on it run alot smoother,and better,it even sounds better...
I've found Sea Foam at Auto Zone for $5-6. Does anyone know of a "How-to" possibly with photos for this vacuum line IM cleaning? I'm a n00b and need some help.
Thanks in advance !
MUST SELL - ECM computer new for a 98 V6 mtx + pats
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Advance Auto on University has it. If you need help doing it let me know - I did it a few weeks ago.
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Originally posted by mean'tour: Originally posted by chrisilversvt:
yep got it at napa...i think all the parts stores carry it...it is in the aisle with the engine and trans. stuff...in a metal bottle...its only like $6.....
if you don't have time to take your uim/lim off to clean them...just let a vaccum line(such as the brake booster line)suck half of the can into your engine....you'll probably have to give it a bit of throttle to keep it running....then just shut the car off and let it sit a few minutes...then start it up and let it smoke then drive it around until the smoking stops...i poured the other half can into the gas tank.....
made my mustang with over 100k on it run alot smoother,and better,it even sounds better...
I've found Sea Foam at Auto Zone for $5-6. Does anyone know of a "How-to" possibly with photos for this vacuum line IM cleaning? I'm a n00b and need some help.
Thanks in advance !
Anyone know of a "How-to" for cleaning (on the car) the IMs? I need photos, etc., == a n00b, that's me.
MUST SELL - ECM computer new for a 98 V6 mtx + pats
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when i get home from work i'll pm you a how to....its really easy...
new,new ride!
'99 svt
black/mnb
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Originally posted by chrisilversvt: when i get home from work i'll pm you a how to....its really easy...
He's right...Really Easy!
However, you may want to consider doing the full cleaning as listed here. It certainly isn't rocket science, and with the photos I'm confident you can complete it.
- Zack
WANTED: T-Red HEATED Side Mirrors
FOR SALE: 4 14" Alum Alloys and Nearly New Avid H4s Tires w/ Center Caps
2000 T-Red SVT
1995 LX V6 MTX (RIP)
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Originally posted by chrisilversvt: when i get home from work i'll pm you a how to....its really easy...
That would be really great, thanks ! I'd like to do it, as I am going to change out my plugs soon... Can do the oil anytime.
I scored a bottle of Sea Foam for $.99 for the NE-CEG Spring meet, it was a mistake at AutoZone that I didn't discover until the next day. I also have a bottle of Berryman's B12. Which would people recommend for this cleaning?
Thanks. If you have any photos to accompany the How-to that would be great. I just want to make sure I am doing the right thing in the right place.
Thanks AGAIN !
MUST SELL - ECM computer new for a 98 V6 mtx + pats
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I'm planning on trying it to.. How to and pictures would be greatly appreciated.
98 silverfrost contour se
duratec mtx
eibach springs
koni struts
K&N P-Flow
ford racing plug wires
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I had bought the seafoam and was told to take it it back. To use Lucas upper cylinder and injector cleaner in the tall plastic bottle, anyone use that?
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Originally posted by kontour_sev6: I had bought the seafoam and was told to take it it back. To use Lucas upper cylinder and injector cleaner in the tall plastic bottle, anyone use that?
whoever told you taht is an idiot......has this person ever used seafoam??????i doubt it....trust me i used it 2 weekends ago,and it made a HUGE difference in the way my mustang runs now...and i'm not exaggerating at all...it runs and idles smoother and pulls noticeably harder as well...i am reccomending this stuff from personal experience...go to stangnet.com and search for seafoam and you can read literally hundreds of testimonials of this product...
new,new ride!
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Originally posted by juices: I'm planning on trying it to..
How to and pictures would be greatly appreciated.
There's a How-to here. Or Chrissilversvt just PM'd me some instructions as well:
*************************
first off find the brake booster(its a big round black thing on the rear firewall near the windshield)it also has the master cylinder attached to it.......
now take half the can of seafoam and pour it in a shallow bowl or container...this is what you'll suck into the vaccum hose.....
now there is a vaccum line attached to the brake booster with a plastic fitting....remove that line from the fitting(should just pull off)its also ok to remove it with the fitting(but will be easier to suck it in thru just the hose)remove this hose with the engine running...removing it will cause the car to run a little rough...if you have a helper have them sit in the car and give it enough gas to keep it running..or if by yourself use the throttle on side of throttlebody by hand to keep it revved enough to stay running...
now just slowly place the hose into the bowl and let it suck the seafoam out of the bowl until it has sucked it all in....it will only take a couple minutes to suck it all in...
now put the hose back on and shut off the car....and pour the other half in your gas tank...
let it sit for about 15-20 minutes....
after it has sat...start it back up and let it run a minute...there should be smoke coming out of the exhaust..this is normal as its the carbon burning off...the amount of smoke will vary by how dirty your engine is...now drive the car around a few minutes,it will smoke still....get on it pretty good a few times...after a few minutes it will stop smoking..then you are done...
it really is simple as that......hope this helps...as long as you can find that hose which is right on the front of the booster,you've got it made....
************************
But my problem (I'm a n00b to car maintenance) is that I don't know where these vaccum hoses are. Are these them? I would pry these loose and put some Sea Foam (or Berryman's B12, etc.) into these as the engine runs, right.
Please let me know, as I would like to try and do this cleaning this weekend, before I install my new plugs and wires...
THANKS ! ! !
MUST SELL - ECM computer new for a 98 V6 mtx + pats
Now trolling in a Red Nissan 4 x 4
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follow those hoses outlined and see which one goes to the back and to the booster...you need to unhook it from the booster though not the uim...can someone please post a pic of the brake booster and vaccum hose????at the firewall...i don't have a tour anymore so i cant go take one...
new,new ride!
'99 svt
black/mnb
'95 mustang gt sold!
'98 svt #800 sold!
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Originally posted by mean'tour: Originally posted by juices: I'm planning on trying it to..
How to and pictures would be greatly appreciated.
There's a How-to here. Or Chrissilversvt just PM'd me some instructions as well:
*************************
first off find the brake booster(its a big round black thing on the rear firewall near the windshield)it also has the master cylinder attached to it.......
now take half the can of seafoam and pour it in a shallow bowl or container...this is what you'll suck into the vaccum hose.....
now there is a vaccum line attached to the brake booster with a plastic fitting....remove that line from the fitting(should just pull off)its also ok to remove it with the fitting(but will be easier to suck it in thru just the hose)remove this hose with the engine running...removing it will cause the car to run a little rough...if you have a helper have them sit in the car and give it enough gas to keep it running..or if by yourself use the throttle on side of throttlebody by hand to keep it revved enough to stay running...
now just slowly place the hose into the bowl and let it suck the seafoam out of the bowl until it has sucked it all in....it will only take a couple minutes to suck it all in...
now put the hose back on and shut off the car....and pour the other half in your gas tank...
let it sit for about 15-20 minutes....
after it has sat...start it back up and let it run a minute...there should be smoke coming out of the exhaust..this is normal as its the carbon burning off...the amount of smoke will vary by how dirty your engine is...now drive the car around a few minutes,it will smoke still....get on it pretty good a few times...after a few minutes it will stop smoking..then you are done...
it really is simple as that......hope this helps...as long as you can find that hose which is right on the front of the booster,you've got it made....
************************
But my problem (I'm a n00b to car maintenance) is that I don't know where these vaccum hoses are. Are these them? I would pry these loose and put some Sea Foam (or Berryman's B12, etc.) into these as the engine runs, right.
Please let me know, as I would like to try and do this cleaning this weekend, before I install my new plugs and wires...
THANKS ! ! !
Anyone have any photos or anything? I'm just not quite sure where to run the Sea Foam/ Berryman's B12.
MUST SELL - ECM computer new for a 98 V6 mtx + pats
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hey mean tour...pm me your email again...i have a pic of my mustang brake booster,which will give you an idea what it looks like...
new,new ride!
'99 svt
black/mnb
'95 mustang gt sold!
'98 svt #800 sold!
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Hard-core CEG\'er
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Hard-core CEG\'er
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Originally posted by mean'tour: Originally posted by mean'tour: Originally posted by juices: I'm planning on trying it to..
How to and pictures would be greatly appreciated.
There's a How-to here. Or Chrissilversvt just PM'd me some instructions as well:
************************* first off find the brake booster(its a big round black thing on the rear firewall near the windshield)it also has the master cylinder attached to it.......
now take half the can of seafoam and pour it in a shallow bowl or container...this is what you'll suck into the vaccum hose.....
now there is a vaccum line attached to the brake booster with a plastic fitting....remove that line from the fitting(should just pull off)its also ok to remove it with the fitting(but will be easier to suck it in thru just the hose)remove this hose with the engine running...removing it will cause the car to run a little rough...if you have a helper have them sit in the car and give it enough gas to keep it running..or if by yourself use the throttle on side of throttlebody by hand to keep it revved enough to stay running...
now just slowly place the hose into the bowl and let it suck the seafoam out of the bowl until it has sucked it all in....it will only take a couple minutes to suck it all in...
now put the hose back on and shut off the car....and pour the other half in your gas tank...
let it sit for about 15-20 minutes....
after it has sat...start it back up and let it run a minute...there should be smoke coming out of the exhaust..this is normal as its the carbon burning off...the amount of smoke will vary by how dirty your engine is...now drive the car around a few minutes,it will smoke still....get on it pretty good a few times...after a few minutes it will stop smoking..then you are done...
it really is simple as that......hope this helps...as long as you can find that hose which is right on the front of the booster,you've got it made.... ************************ But my problem (I'm a n00b to car maintenance) is that I don't know where these vaccum hoses are. Are these them? I would pry these loose and put some Sea Foam (or Berryman's B12, etc.) into these as the engine runs, right.
Please let me know, as I would like to try and do this cleaning this weekend, before I install my new plugs and wires...
THANKS ! ! !
Anyone have any photos or anything? I'm just not quite sure where to run the Sea Foam/ Berryman's B12.
Anyone? Sorry to repeatedly kick a dead horse, but I need a fool proof (ie. me proof) way to know that I'm putting the cleaner into the right vacuum hole areas.
Any photos? Or maybe a diagram? Is this type of info./ photos in the Haynes manual?
Any ideas? I appreciate chrissilversvt's help, but I'm still not sure.
Thanks in advance.
MUST SELL - ECM computer new for a 98 V6 mtx + pats
Now trolling in a Red Nissan 4 x 4
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Yes, those to little black plastic hoses are where you stick a vac hose in. You only do one at a time. They slide off very easily, just h old your thumb nail against the black ring, push down a bit on the hose, and pull up. Stick your hose in there and suck it down. Word of advise... this method does not do as good as a jon as I thought... I sucked up a can of b-12 2 weeks ago, car ran better... but this weekend I pulled the UIM off and it was NASTY. Go to the pics and vids section, you can see pics from my hardcore UIM/LIM cleaning.
2006 Pontiac G6 3900SFI GTP Coupe
CAI, Stainless Cat Back, Vector Tune, Strut Brace, Eibach Pro Kit, Custom Made Projector Headlights, 4300K, 20% Tint
Former Owner- 2000 "Stryped" CSVT
CEG Dragon Run- Oct 13-15
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If you want fool proof, theni take it apart and clean it manually.. the spray on method doesn't do anything but "lessen" the buildup.. the stuff is on there WAY to much to be taken off simply by the booster method. There is a thread in Pics and Vids about a weeken cleaning that states the exact thing. he did the booster method and THEN took it apart to find it looking like he hadn't touched it.
There is a how-to I wrote in the Duratec Maintenance forum, stickied at the top. If you can read English, and follow SIMPLE directions, you can do this.
Ray
'99 CSVT - Silver #222/276
In a constant state of blow-off euphoria.
Originally posted by Kremitthefrog: I like to wear dresses and use binoculars to watch grandmas across the street.
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Originally posted by Ray: If you want fool proof, then take it apart and clean it manually.. the spray on method doesn't do anything but "lessen" the buildup.. the stuff is on there WAY to much to be taken off simply by the booster method. There is a thread in Pics and Vids about a weekend cleaning that states the exact thing. Chad did the booster method and THEN took it apart to find it looking like Lilstrypedrocket hadn't touched it.
Ray
I'm a STAR!!
2006 Pontiac G6 3900SFI GTP Coupe
CAI, Stainless Cat Back, Vector Tune, Strut Brace, Eibach Pro Kit, Custom Made Projector Headlights, 4300K, 20% Tint
Former Owner- 2000 "Stryped" CSVT
CEG Dragon Run- Oct 13-15
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Keep tellin' yourself that.. Either way.. it is as I stated, and now you have the guy I was referring to in here.. so see for yourself... it sucks... don't waste your time, or effort, and if you do, don't say I didn't tell you so. Ray
'99 CSVT - Silver #222/276
In a constant state of blow-off euphoria.
Originally posted by Kremitthefrog: I like to wear dresses and use binoculars to watch grandmas across the street.
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2006 Pontiac G6 3900SFI GTP Coupe
CAI, Stainless Cat Back, Vector Tune, Strut Brace, Eibach Pro Kit, Custom Made Projector Headlights, 4300K, 20% Tint
Former Owner- 2000 "Stryped" CSVT
CEG Dragon Run- Oct 13-15
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Hard-core CEG\'er
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Originally posted by Ray:
Either way.. it is as I stated, and now you have the guy I was referring to in here.. so see for yourself... it sucks... don't waste your time, or effort, and if you do, don't say I didn't tell you so.
Ray
Thanks Ray and LilStrypedrocket. My problem is time, I don't have the time to completely rip the manifolds apart. I have 2 young kids, a full-time + job, a wife that works from home... and I have to make time to do the little bit of maintenance I am figuring out right now. I changed my oil a few weeks ago at 9:30pm in the rain; that was when I had time. I was out until 11:30pm Friday night finishing up my tranny fluid change and fuel filter.
Then the experience level comes into play...
I have excuses, lots of them. That is why I'm looking for the quick, easy way right now. I have looked at that step-by-step "How-to" for the complete break-down and clean, and it looks pretty good. Lots of terms to know and parts/ gaskets etc. to obtain. But looks like maybe even I could do it. That will have to be my goal for the summer.
Thanks again.
MUST SELL - ECM computer new for a 98 V6 mtx + pats
Now trolling in a Red Nissan 4 x 4
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Hey man, if you need ANY help, feel free to PM me, I'll give ya my cell and you can call me when you need help. As for parts, there aren;t many. 4 gaskets total, thats all. I have all the part numbers ready and available and can be bought at either the ford dealership or any large parts store. Total for all the gaskets was less than 40 bucks. You do not HAVE to pull the LIM off to clean it. I did... jsut becuase I had time. You can get the LIM clean using the valvoline brand throttle body cleaner and a plastic bristle tooth brush and wiping the plates and walls with a cottom rag (don't use paper towles or shop towels becuase fibres come off of those). You do not have to worry about the gunk and fluid that goes down becuase most of it will evaporate or burn up within 5-10 seconds of running.
Tools needed:
about 4-5 diffrent deep sockets (MM)
Ratchet
Flat Head screw driver
Tourque wrench (about $10.00 from an auto parts store)
3 cans of Valvoline Carb Cleaner
2-3 cans of Berrymans b-12 to clean the UIM out
a toothbrush sized brass bristle brush
Roll of cheapy shop towels
Gaskets
A pizza and a few drinks
I know it seems scary to do this.. but trust me and Ray and eveyrone else that has done this... it's VERY easy. Truthfully, the ONLY thing you could really screw up on is either over torquing the UIM bolts, letting a screw or soemthign fall down the passage way, or not tightening down the bolts properly-- and these are VERY difficult to mess up, I might add. All of this is explained very well in Ray's how to. I know I said it took 7 hours... but realisticly, someone could do this in about 2-3 hours. I spent 1.5 hours looking for a junkyard to get a UIM bolt that I over-torqued like a moron .
So, this summer, give your wife 20 bucks and tell her to take the kids for an afternoon and get your hands dirty. You have CEG and myself here to help you, if you need to speak directly, PM me and I'll give you my number and I'll coach you through it, lol.
Also, here are pics from my cleaning... you can see how nasty this was.. 2 weeks after sucking the b-12 down. Cleaned up UIM/LIM
2006 Pontiac G6 3900SFI GTP Coupe
CAI, Stainless Cat Back, Vector Tune, Strut Brace, Eibach Pro Kit, Custom Made Projector Headlights, 4300K, 20% Tint
Former Owner- 2000 "Stryped" CSVT
CEG Dragon Run- Oct 13-15
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Hard-core CEG\'er
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Originally posted by LilStrypedRocket: Hey man, if you need ANY help, feel free to PM me, I'll give ya my cell and you can call me when you need help. As for parts, there aren;t many. 4 gaskets total, thats all. I have all the part numbers ready and available and can be bought at either the ford dealership or any large parts store. Total for all the gaskets was less than 40 bucks. You do not HAVE to pull the LIM off to clean it. I did... jsut becuase I had time. You can get the LIM clean using the valvoline brand throttle body cleaner and a plastic bristle tooth brush and wiping the plates and walls with a cottom rag (don't use paper towles or shop towels becuase fibres come off of those). You do not have to worry about the gunk and fluid that goes down becuase most of it will evaporate or burn up within 5-10 seconds of running.
Tools needed:
about 4-5 diffrent deep sockets (MM) Ratchet Flat Head screw driver Tourque wrench (about $10.00 from an auto parts store) 3 cans of Valvoline Carb Cleaner 2-3 cans of Berrymans b-12 to clean the UIM out a toothbrush sized brass bristle brush Roll of cheapy shop towels Gaskets A pizza and a few drinks
I know it seems scary to do this.. but trust me and Ray and eveyrone else that has done this... it's VERY easy. Truthfully, the ONLY thing you could really screw up on is either over torquing the UIM bolts, letting a screw or soemthign fall down the passage way, or not tightening down the bolts properly-- and these are VERY difficult to mess up, I might add. All of this is explained very well in Ray's how to. I know I said it took 7 hours... but realisticly, someone could do this in about 2-3 hours. I spent 1.5 hours looking for a junkyard to get a UIM bolt that I over-torqued like a moron .
So, this summer, give your wife 20 bucks and tell her to take the kids for an afternoon and get your hands dirty. You have CEG and myself here to help you, if you need to speak directly, PM me and I'll give you my number and I'll coach you through it, lol.
Also, here are pics from my cleaning... you can see how nasty this was.. 2 weeks after sucking the b-12 down. Cleaned up UIM/LIM
Gotta love CEG ! Thanks Stryped, I may take you up on that offer in the Summer. THANKS ! ! !
MUST SELL - ECM computer new for a 98 V6 mtx + pats
Now trolling in a Red Nissan 4 x 4
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2006 Pontiac G6 3900SFI GTP Coupe
CAI, Stainless Cat Back, Vector Tune, Strut Brace, Eibach Pro Kit, Custom Made Projector Headlights, 4300K, 20% Tint
Former Owner- 2000 "Stryped" CSVT
CEG Dragon Run- Oct 13-15
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Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 2,857
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
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yeah it appears that the contour manifolds have a tendancy to build up the carbon worse than alot of other cars...removing and cleaning is probably the best way on a tour....i know in the case of my mustang that sucking it through helped tremendously...but than i don't think that the mustang manifolds have the tendancy to build up as badly as the tour...
new,new ride!
'99 svt
black/mnb
'95 mustang gt sold!
'98 svt #800 sold!
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Man. All this stuff about pulling the intakes off... sounds really cool. The kind of work that leaves your fingernails dirty for days, and you get to explain why using terms that impress non-car-oriented folk. Anyway. My question to the SVT gurus that dispense their wisdom is: where can I find the gaskets I need to replace when doing this job? Can I just go to Autozone and hope they have the kit in stock? Or is this something best left to Ford parts dealers? How much can I expect to pay? If I ever get the time to actually do this, I'll post pictures! My other hobby happens to be photography, and if I'm going to do a multi-hundred dollar job myself, I want to have proof that I did it.
Stealth is best. Make it look stock. Confuse people. Bother people.
--'00 Contour SVT in dashing Silver Frost. Completely stock. Gonna do some minor tinkering. Ultimate goal? True dual! Now... Just need lots of money...
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Dealership...depends on what you want to replace. For example, I didn't replace my tb nor IAC gaskets when I did it. I believe it's anywhere from 50-70 for the gaskets.
50-70 for gaskets plus 6-10 cans of carb cleaner (2 dolalrs each) so just shy of about a hundred bucks. It's definitely not a 'multi-hundred dollar job.' W/o the gaskets and 6 cans of cleaner all on sale, I finished the job for about $35. Hence, it varies.
99 Black Contour SE Sport
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Also, give Steve a call at Tousley Ford. Steve's # in the FAQ-Duratec Maintenance I'm doing a BIG old rebuild on my car, so I'll be doing coolant flush, tranny flush, oil/filter change, and a complete UIM/LIM manifold rebuild this summer, but the parts for all of that came out to about $100. That includes all gaskets, manifold to fuel rail seals, o-rings, and spark plugs. Just give Steve a call, he'll know what you're looking for, specially since him and I walked through all the parts this morning. BTW, list price for all my parts was ~$170.
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Awesome. Thanks guys!
Sooo... Tousley Ford and Steve can help me out? Simply because I'm a member of the CEG? Truly amazing. I'll give him a call straight away! I take it they'll simply box the stuff up and mail it to me?
Stealth is best. Make it look stock. Confuse people. Bother people.
--'00 Contour SVT in dashing Silver Frost. Completely stock. Gonna do some minor tinkering. Ultimate goal? True dual! Now... Just need lots of money...
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Yep, same as they would any other long distance customer. If he has all your parts in stock, chances are he'll ship it same day too.
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I did the on-the-car IM cleaning a couple of days ago. LOTS of smoke, I hope that means it was doing some good !
My goal for the summer is to do the whole teardown cleaning, gasket replacement, etc.
I'm wondering if both methods have value. It seems like you should be able to do the teardown serious cleaning, and then do the on-the-car method every 10,000 or so miles (as someone suggested) to keep it clean? Kind of maintaining the cleanliness? Does that make sense?
MUST SELL - ECM computer new for a 98 V6 mtx + pats
Now trolling in a Red Nissan 4 x 4
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2006 Pontiac G6 3900SFI GTP Coupe
CAI, Stainless Cat Back, Vector Tune, Strut Brace, Eibach Pro Kit, Custom Made Projector Headlights, 4300K, 20% Tint
Former Owner- 2000 "Stryped" CSVT
CEG Dragon Run- Oct 13-15
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Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 2,857
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
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cool man i'm glad to hear you did it ok...i was wondering if you had tried it yet...
i would say do both it sure can't hurt anything...
new,new ride!
'99 svt
black/mnb
'95 mustang gt sold!
'98 svt #800 sold!
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Joined: Aug 2002
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Originally posted by mean'tour: My goal for the summer is to do the whole teardown cleaning, gasket replacement, etc.
Me too!
On the subject of cleaning, I've got myself a couple bottles of Techron. Is that a suitable substance to use for the quickie job?
I'm wondering about which to do first--the easy way or the hard way. What has me worried is if I try the chemical flush method first, it'll break loose a bunch of crap that will, on its way to the tailpipe, clog my cats, gum up my O2 sensors, or any other horrible things I can think up.
See, for the last (at least) 20,000 miles, my car has had a drop-in K&N filter with a hole in it sitting in the engine compartment without an airbox. Who knows what kind of crud is lurking in my intake?
Stealth is best. Make it look stock. Confuse people. Bother people.
--'00 Contour SVT in dashing Silver Frost. Completely stock. Gonna do some minor tinkering. Ultimate goal? True dual! Now... Just need lots of money...
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