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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,119
Hard-core CEG\'er
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Hard-core CEG\'er
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,119 |
:-) had my car up in the air yesterday and did look my new tires over to see how they are wearing in. Didn't notice any of that. Guess I'm good. Thanks for the tips so I know what to watch for.
1998 SE Duratec V6 ATX
Ebay intake with K&N Filter
Trubendz Exhaust
Custom Hood
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Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 3,732
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 3,732 |
about the tierod.....at work i always hit the side of the spindle where the tierod goes in....with a hard hammer...not a brass one or anything and they pop right out without even touching the tierod itself
now popping out balljoints on older ford trucks....thats another story 
and the axle....
punch or air chisel with a punch bit right in the little "hole" in the center of the axle takes it right out
i dont like putting nuts back on the threads of anything and hitting them with a hammer...ive ruined things before doing it that way
Russell
Oval Port 3L Nearly Done
MTX75 w/ Homebrew Zetec FD and Torsen Complete
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 432
CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 432 |
I do it the same way you do Russel, brace a heavy hammer on backside of spindle and hit the opposite side and out she pops without a problem. No offence...but I would like to see anyone take one out of some of the older ford trucks with a screw driver and dead blow hammer. I have replaced many tie rods on Big rig trucks and always used the same method...whack on the spindle side and out it pops.
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Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 5,810
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 5,810 |
Originally posted by Thinkmoto:
Originally posted by lowbudgetracing:
you never want to hit the threaded part of the tie rod with a hammer as it may damage the threads.
the best way to remove the tie rod with out damage is to remove the tie rod nut,and hit the side of the spindle where the tie rod go's through with a hammer and the tie rod will pop out with out damage.
reread Demons post he uses a dead blow..the pic shows a dead blow hammer also. Have you any idea how much hammering it would take to mar the threads with a dead blow hammer? I myself use a copper hammer..I've never had a problem starting the tie rod nuts back onto the threads afterwards.
Yes you are correct about hitting threads with a BALL PEEN hammer. Personally anyone that works on a car with a ball peen or hard faced hammer is a [censored] hammer mechanic HACK!!!! They don't make dead blow/copper/brass hammers/pullers for nothing.
No. lowbudgetracing is correct! The proper way is to buy a puller, a narrow c-shaped device that slides on the tie-rod mounting point of the spindle and has a screw to press it out.
If you don't have it then there is the pickle fork but the boots will be toast!
And finally,
His method of striking the metal joint of the spindle (not tie-rod) where the tie rod is inserted while you have a prybar behind applying tension, is the easiest accepted way among shop mechanics to pop a joint loose with no damage.
The shock will almost always pop it out in one or two blows and there will be no risk of damage to threads or boots.
Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760
356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas!
See My Mods
'05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red
'06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 13
New CEG\'er
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New CEG\'er
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 13 |
ok, so i have to do this... my front left sounds like an old skateboard.
everyone seems to be buying a whole new hub. what is the reasoning behind this? do you really have to replace the hub, or just get the old bearing out and the new one in?
also, pressing bearings, is there a special tool to do this or do you have to take it to a shop? i helped my buddy disasemble the hub on his Bronco and he just bought the special tool (looks like a hole saw) that would screw a colar onto the bearing to hold it in position.
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Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 7,100
Addicted CEG\'er
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OP
Addicted CEG\'er
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 7,100 |
I could swear this was all answered in the original thread..
(up above)
HOWEVER:
Replaceing the hub can be done entirely at home, by the DIY'er. The new hub contains an already-pressed bearing in it.
Replacing the bearing involves a shop (or a 12 ton press, whichever is more accessable). remove hub, press old bearing out, new one in, replace hub. either way.. you are looking at paying labor charges to press the bearings in/out.
your call, dude.. you can find a new hub for a relatively cheap price, go that route. You are looking at a new bearing (~$60.00) and an hour of labor to press out/in.
Add those together, and see if you can find a new hub for that price. the other reason to buy a hub outright would be if the bearing has been bad in the original hub for a while, effectively ruining the hub and making any newly pressed bearings not last.
'99 CSVT - Silver #222/276
In a constant state of blow-off euphoria.
Originally posted by Kremitthefrog:
I like to wear dresses and use binoculars to watch grandmas across the street.
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Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 13
New CEG\'er
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New CEG\'er
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 13 |
so there IS a little more to it than just cost.
i didn't know that the bearing could make the hub go bad... thanks
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Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 7,100
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OP
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The bearing is pressed in to the hub. the seal is created from being the same size (outer diameter of the bearing and inner diameter of the hub..)
if the race on the bearing is bad, or spins, it "eats away" at the hub, enlarging the diameter of the hub. Any new bearings are then too small to be pressed tightly and thus spin as well.
'99 CSVT - Silver #222/276
In a constant state of blow-off euphoria.
Originally posted by Kremitthefrog:
I like to wear dresses and use binoculars to watch grandmas across the street.
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Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 13
New CEG\'er
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New CEG\'er
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in my travels to find parts i came across this writeup on the AutoZone site. http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1b/d5/0a/0900823d801bd50a.jspit has the torque specs for the entire hub/knuckle assembly. FTA: Quote:
27. Install a new steering knuckle to lower ball joint pinch bolt. Tighten the bolt to 70 ft. lbs. (84 Nm).
28. Install a new steering knuckle to strut pinch bolt. Tighten the bolt to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm).
29. Reinstall the anti-lock brake sensor and retaining bolt. Tighten the retaining bolt to 84 inch. lbs. (10 Nm).
30. Reinstall the disc brake rotor and caliper assembly.
31. Reinstall a new wheel hub retaining nut. Tighten the retaining nut to 210 ft. lbs. (290 Nm).
Do not use an impact gun to tighten the wheel hub retaining nut or damage to the wheel bearing may result.
32. Attach the tie rod end to the steering knuckle. Install the castellated nut and tighten the nut to 18-22 ft. lbs. (25-30 Nm). Install a new cotter pin.
33. Reinstall the wheel and tire assembly. Tighten the lug nuts to 62 ft. lbs. (85 Nm).
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Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 10,015
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 10,015 |
For those who want new QUALITY OEM SKF bearings pressed in - send me a PM - I have them in stock AND I know how to install them properly.
2000 SVT Turbo 295hp/269ftlb@12psi
#1 for Bendix Brakes Kits!
Knuckles rebuilt w/new bearings $55
AUSSIE ENDLINKS $70
Gutted pre-cats $80/set
A lack of planning on your part does not constitute an emergency on mine!
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