Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications Duratec Maintenance Wheel Knuckle/Bearing HOW-TO with pics

For this how to, you must remember something:

I DID NOT remove a few items, etc, and some of my pictures may look like they were taken out of order (some parts may be on in one picture that I already had you take off,etc)

I did this how-to simply for the know-how of others.. I did not actually have to replace anything, and only tore the car down enough to SHOW how...
So.. if I say to remove something, go by what I said.. NOT BY WHAT YOU SEE that is contrary.. ("well.. HIS rotor is still on", or the like...)

Tools:

• Jack/jack stand (one stand for each side you are replacing, obviously.)
  
• Tire Iron, or other lug nut removal tool
  
• 32mm Socket
  
• breaker bar that will accept your 32mm socket
  
• 15mm Socket
  
• 10mm Socket
  
• 18mm Socket
  
• T-55 Torx socket
  
• Torque Wrench capable of 200ft/lbs (can be borrowed from parts stores)
  
• a replacement "Locking Spindle Nut/Axle Nut" (<$9.00 from the dealer)
  

Jack the car up, and place the car on a stand.
(warning:It is NOT advised to work on the car without properly securing the car on a jackstand, on level ground. Please work with caution in this manner.

Remove the four lug nuts and remove the rim from the car.

Using the 32mm Socket and the long breaker bar, remove the "locking spindle nut" (large nut that holds the hub to the axle itself. You will need a friend to help with this. Place the car in gear, and have him hold the brakes as hard as he can, so you can break this one free...

Remove the brake caliper, using the 15mm socket on the back-side of the caliper itself (there are two bolts, one above the other... (see image below)


Set the caliper aside, but support it so that you don't place any strain on the brake lines.. Using the rim of your car, underneath the car is a good idea, as it will support the caliper, and if the jackstand should fail it will also stop the car from falling (possibly hurting you, or damaging expensive pieces of the car..) See image:


Now that you have the caliper off (don't forget where you put the caliper retainer bolts!!) we need to undo a few more things:

Remove the rotor itself..(just slide it off, and set it aside, carefully.

Remove the wheel speed sensor using the 10mm socket, and then simply place something hard over the plastic "tab" that holds it to the hub and press to get it out.. You can see an image of the wheel speed sensor location in the "pinchbolt" picture, below, on the 18mm side... (just keep reading, once you get there, you will understand...)

So far, we have:

• the axle nut off
  
• the caliper off
  
• the wheel speed sensor off
  
• the tie-rod end..
  

What? we didn't take off the tie-rod end, yet? Then do it...

Use the same 15mm socket as the brake caliper to remove the tie-rod end. Once you remove that bolt, the tie-rod should slip free.. If it is slightly stuck, replace the bolt on to the threads, secure it a few turns only, then use the bolt as a stricking surface for a wrench, or small hammer to dislodge the tie-rod end... DO NOT strike the threads themselves, as you can strip or marr the threads, causing the bolt to not go back on, or become stuck on at a later time.. (see image)

You can also try this:
Once the bolt is out, place a pry bar UNDERNEATH the tie-rod end, and OVER the wheel hub, to pry the tie-rod out of its spot.. If needed, use a soft blow hammer to tap the tie rod out WHILE prying upwards, as shown below:


Now, time to remove the balljoint pinch bolt and we will be almost there!

Using the 18mm socket on one end, and the T-55 Torx bit on the other, secure the Torx head from moving, and apply your counter-clockwise motion to the 18mm head. (turning the Torx head will eventually strip it out, and you want to avoid that as much as possible...)
Below are a few images.. the first two showing each end, repectively, then the third showing the removal process

18mm pinchbolt side


T-55 Torx side


Removal


The ball-joint pinch bolt is out, and you are ready to go, huh? okay... get your long breaker bar, or some other equally sturdy long object, and place it through the control arms opening, and pry downwards causing the control arm to lower and the balljoint to pop out of the pinchbolt retaining hole. It will take about 2 or 2.5 inches of movement on the control arm to pop it out.

Now you have to take the axle out of the splined shaft of the hub. It will most likely be really stuck in there..In that case, take your spindle nut(Axle nut) and replace it on the axle a few turns.. Use your hammer, and hit on the nut to force the axle out the back of the hub. Turning the hub slightly makes for more movement room for the axle (not ALL the way, mind you..) having a friend to pull straight out on the hub itself (where the lug nuts screw on to..) while you hit the axle nut will help make even more room.

Now that you have the axle out, remove the small bolt on the back side of the hub assembly (if you need to see it, look back at the CALIPER REMOVAL picture, and you can see it at the very top, just to the right of the center of the picture.

use your small hammer(or old heavy wrench..:)) and bang the hub assembly downwards until it pops off of there.

DONE

Take your hub to the mechanic, etc, and have the old bearing pressed out, and a new one pressed in.. Installation is reverse of removal.

The axle nut is a one time use, so use a new nut when installing..
Torque the axle nut to 208 ft/lbs!!!

DO I NEED TO SAY THAT AGAIN? TORQUE THE AXLE NUT TO 208 FT/LBS!!!

Return your borrowed torque wrench(if you borrowed one) and have a nicer day without that annoying noise!

Very nice, lets hope I never need it .

Thanks Ray!!
I need to do this to the back soon. Now i'm not so nervous about it.

Quick question... because the ends are undone does the car need to be alighned after? I'm guessing no because the ends don't really change at all. So long as you(the installer) doesn't turn them at all.

While we are on the subject... taking the axle out of the hub the right way: CV Boot service howto
Never use a hammer to separate the halfshaft from the front wheel hub


originally posted here

you never want to hit the threaded part of the tie rod with a hammer as it may damage the threads.

the best way to remove the tie rod with out damage is to remove the tie rod nut,and hit the side of the spindle where the tie rod go's through with a hammer and the tie rod will pop out with out damage.

Anyone know about my alignment question from above?

As long as you don't turn the tie-rod itself, your specs should remain the same, assuming that the part you replace is spec'd the same (same EXACT dimensions, etc...) In theory, the specs would be the same for every manufactured part, but variances do occur...

Ray

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bearing is another 50$ or so.

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before all this talk of money goes out the door... TOUSLA FORD, in MN will give 50% discount from list for calling.
Call Steve at 1-800-328-9552.

This does not apply to SVT owners only. It is called the "SVT program" but Steve told me that he will give that discount to anyone that calls that number.. no matter what they drive.

HUB ASSEMBLY (new) WITH bearing already pressed was 162.00 SHIPPED (3day priority...) Can't beat that..

Ray

Guys your bickering is funny :-) Good job on the info of the repair! only question I have, is how are you going to know if you need to replace it?

whirring, buzzing, or metallic grinding noise on one side of the car.. predominant when turning the vehicle, to shift the weight on to THAT BAD bearing (ex. left turns will make the right one sound louder, or appear... and vice versa.. if you make a right turn and hear what some people call "an airplane engine" sound, then your LEFT bearing is probably gone.

To test.. jack the car up enough to take the tire off the ground, and see if there is any play in the tire (up and down, etc.. if you can wiggle the tire.. EVEN A LITTLE, it is a bad bearing.)

Ray

:-) had my car up in the air yesterday and did look my new tires over to see how they are wearing in. Didn't notice any of that. Guess I'm good. Thanks for the tips so I know what to watch for.

about the tierod.....at work i always hit the side of the spindle where the tierod goes in....with a hard hammer...not a brass one or anything and they pop right out without even touching the tierod itself


now popping out balljoints on older ford trucks....thats another story

and the axle....

punch or air chisel with a punch bit right in the little "hole" in the center of the axle takes it right out

i dont like putting nuts back on the threads of anything and hitting them with a hammer...ive ruined things before doing it that way

I do it the same way you do Russel, brace a heavy hammer on backside of spindle and hit the opposite side and out she pops without a problem. No offence...but I would like to see anyone take one out of some of the older ford trucks with a screw driver and dead blow hammer. I have replaced many tie rods on Big rig trucks and always used the same method...whack on the spindle side and out it pops.

ok, so i have to do this... my front left sounds like an old skateboard.

everyone seems to be buying a whole new hub. what is the reasoning behind this? do you really have to replace the hub, or just get the old bearing out and the new one in?

also, pressing bearings, is there a special tool to do this or do you have to take it to a shop? i helped my buddy disasemble the hub on his Bronco and he just bought the special tool (looks like a hole saw) that would screw a colar onto the bearing to hold it in position.

I could swear this was all answered in the original thread..

(up above)



HOWEVER:

Replaceing the hub can be done entirely at home, by the DIY'er. The new hub contains an already-pressed bearing in it.

Replacing the bearing involves a shop (or a 12 ton press, whichever is more accessable). remove hub, press old bearing out, new one in, replace hub. either way.. you are looking at paying labor charges to press the bearings in/out.

your call, dude.. you can find a new hub for a relatively cheap price, go that route. You are looking at a new bearing (~$60.00) and an hour of labor to press out/in.

Add those together, and see if you can find a new hub for that price. the other reason to buy a hub outright would be if the bearing has been bad in the original hub for a while, effectively ruining the hub and making any newly pressed bearings not last.

so there IS a little more to it than just cost.

i didn't know that the bearing could make the hub go bad... thanks

The bearing is pressed in to the hub. the seal is created from being the same size (outer diameter of the bearing and inner diameter of the hub..)

if the race on the bearing is bad, or spins, it "eats away" at the hub, enlarging the diameter of the hub. Any new bearings are then too small to be pressed tightly and thus spin as well.

in my travels to find parts i came across this writeup on the AutoZone site.

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1b/d5/0a/0900823d801bd50a.jsp

it has the torque specs for the entire hub/knuckle assembly.

FTA:

Quote:

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27. Install a new steering knuckle to lower ball joint pinch bolt. Tighten the bolt to 70 ft. lbs. (84 Nm).
28. Install a new steering knuckle to strut pinch bolt. Tighten the bolt to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm).
29. Reinstall the anti-lock brake sensor and retaining bolt. Tighten the retaining bolt to 84 inch. lbs. (10 Nm).
30. Reinstall the disc brake rotor and caliper assembly.
31. Reinstall a new wheel hub retaining nut. Tighten the retaining nut to 210 ft. lbs. (290 Nm).

Do not use an impact gun to tighten the wheel hub retaining nut or damage to the wheel bearing may result.

32. Attach the tie rod end to the steering knuckle. Install the castellated nut and tighten the nut to 18-22 ft. lbs. (25-30 Nm). Install a new cotter pin.
33. Reinstall the wheel and tire assembly. Tighten the lug nuts to 62 ft. lbs. (85 Nm).

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For those who want new QUALITY OEM SKF bearings pressed in - send me a PM - I have them in stock AND I know how to install them properly.