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Originally posted by lowbudgetracing:
you never want to hit the threaded part of the tie rod with a hammer as it may damage the threads.
the best way to remove the tie rod with out damage is to remove the tie rod nut,and hit the side of the spindle where the tie rod go's through with a hammer and the tie rod will pop out with out damage.
reread Demons post he uses a dead blow..the pic shows a dead blow hammer also. Have you any idea how much hammering it would take to mar the threads with a dead blow hammer? I myself use a copper hammer..I've never had a problem starting the tie rod nuts back onto the threads afterwards.
Yes you are correct about hitting threads with a BALL PEEN hammer. Personally anyone that works on a car with a ball peen or hard faced hammer is a [censored] hammer mechanic HACK!!!! They don't make dead blow/copper/brass hammers/pullers for nothing.
06 GMC Sierra 2500HD Dmax/ally
06 Pontiac G6 GT
05 CRF250R
FOR SALE 06 KX65 with riding gear $2700 obo
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Originally posted by DemonSVT:
...I only state this as you responded to my post... 
your post was the last in the thread  ...
I honestly thought that we are done w/ the tie rod and can move on to the next point in the original how-to (see post #1 in this thread  ).
but if you want to continue discussing the tie rod, then we can do that too... the threaded part of the tie rod can not possibly be damaged by the dead blow, as the tie rod is dog-pointed. it has a socket for hex 5mm key which can potentially be damaged but I am yet to hear that someone actually was sloppy enough to do it. there, can we move on now?
so... coming back to my point  hammering away on the axle is far more dangerous, unnecessary and should be avoided at all costs. Damage of the tripod internals, retaining springs, circlip and possibly other parts may result. I am almost 100% sure that God invented axle puller just for this purpose. 
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Originally posted by alex_96GL:
your post was the last in the thread ...
I noticed that. I had to go back and edit in that last line afterwards.  Don't tell anyone okay...
2000 SVT #674
13.47 @ 102 - All Motor!
It was not broke; Yet I fixed it anyway.
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Originally posted by alex_96GL:
hammering away on the axle is far more dangerous, unnecessary and should be avoided at all costs. Damage of the tripod internals, retaining springs, circlip and possibly other parts may result. I am almost 100% sure that God invented axle puller just for this purpose.
I stated that you should replace the old axle nut on the axle before hammering... I have yet to see how this would be ANY more detrimental to the axle threads (with the nut ON) than a failing bearing causing rotor play, and allowing the rotor to place stress on the axle nut.. you would think that would cause the nut to press in and possibly warp the outer most thread, but you never hear someone say that you have to replace the axle when your bearing goes out, do you?
Ray
'99 CSVT - Silver #222/276
In a constant state of blow-off euphoria.
Originally posted by Kremitthefrog:
I like to wear dresses and use binoculars to watch grandmas across the street.
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Anyone know about my alignment question from above?
Brian W. -------------------- Black 1998 SE 5 speed - TOTALLED
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As long as you don't turn the tie-rod itself, your specs should remain the same, assuming that the part you replace is spec'd the same (same EXACT dimensions, etc...) In theory, the specs would be the same for every manufactured part, but variances do occur...
Ray
'99 CSVT - Silver #222/276
In a constant state of blow-off euphoria.
Originally posted by Kremitthefrog:
I like to wear dresses and use binoculars to watch grandmas across the street.
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bearing is another 50$ or so.
Check me out for awsome powder coating deals
www.powdercoatingworld.com
People shouldn't slam each other when posting, If you cant say something good to say then just hit the back arrow.
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before all this talk of money goes out the door... TOUSLA FORD, in MN will give 50% discount from list for calling.
Call Steve at 1-800-328-9552.
This does not apply to SVT owners only. It is called the "SVT program" but Steve told me that he will give that discount to anyone that calls that number.. no matter what they drive.
HUB ASSEMBLY (new) WITH bearing already pressed was 162.00 SHIPPED (3day priority...) Can't beat that..
Ray
'99 CSVT - Silver #222/276
In a constant state of blow-off euphoria.
Originally posted by Kremitthefrog:
I like to wear dresses and use binoculars to watch grandmas across the street.
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Guys your bickering is funny :-) Good job on the info of the repair! only question I have, is how are you going to know if you need to replace it?
1998 SE Duratec V6 ATX
Ebay intake with K&N Filter
Trubendz Exhaust
Custom Hood
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whirring, buzzing, or metallic grinding noise on one side of the car.. predominant when turning the vehicle, to shift the weight on to THAT BAD bearing (ex. left turns will make the right one sound louder, or appear... and vice versa.. if you make a right turn and hear what some people call "an airplane engine" sound, then your LEFT bearing is probably gone.
To test.. jack the car up enough to take the tire off the ground, and see if there is any play in the tire (up and down, etc.. if you can wiggle the tire.. EVEN A LITTLE, it is a bad bearing.)
Ray
'99 CSVT - Silver #222/276
In a constant state of blow-off euphoria.
Originally posted by Kremitthefrog:
I like to wear dresses and use binoculars to watch grandmas across the street.
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