For this how to, you must remember something:
I DID NOT remove a few items, etc, and some of my pictures may look like they were taken out of order (some parts may be on in one picture that I already had you take off,etc)
I did this how-to simply for the know-how of others.. I did not actually have to replace anything, and only tore the car down enough to SHOW how...
So.. if I say to remove something, go by what I said.. NOT BY WHAT YOU SEE that is contrary.. ("well.. HIS rotor is still on", or the like...)
Tools:
- Jack/jack stand (one stand for each side you are replacing, obviously.)
- Tire Iron, or other lug nut removal tool
- 32mm Socket
- breaker bar that will accept your 32mm socket
- 15mm Socket
- 10mm Socket
- 18mm Socket
- T-55 Torx socket
- Torque Wrench capable of 200ft/lbs (can be borrowed from parts stores)
- a replacement "Locking Spindle Nut/Axle Nut" (<$9.00 from the dealer)
Jack the car up, and place the car on a stand.
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warning:It is NOT advised to work on the car without properly securing the car on a jackstand, on level ground. Please work with caution in this manner.
Remove the four lug nuts and remove the rim from the car.
Using the 32mm Socket and the long breaker bar, remove the "locking spindle nut" (large nut that holds the hub to the axle itself. You will need a friend to help with this. Place the car in gear, and have him hold the brakes as hard as he can, so you can break this one free...
Remove the brake caliper, using the 15mm socket on the back-side of the caliper itself (there are two bolts, one above the other... (see image below)
Set the caliper aside, but support it so that you don't place any strain on the brake lines.. Using the rim of your car, underneath the car is a good idea, as it will support the caliper, and if the jackstand should fail it will also stop the car from falling (possibly hurting you, or damaging expensive pieces of the car..) See image:
Now that you have the caliper off (don't forget where you put the caliper retainer bolts!!) we need to undo a few more things:
Remove the rotor itself..(just slide it off, and set it aside, carefully.
Remove the wheel speed sensor using the 10mm socket, and then simply place something hard over the plastic "tab" that holds it to the hub and press to get it out.. You can see an image of the wheel speed sensor location in the "pinchbolt" picture, below, on the 18mm side... (just keep reading, once you get there, you will understand...)
So far, we have:
- the axle nut off
- the caliper off
- the wheel speed sensor off
- the tie-rod end..
What? we didn't take off the tie-rod end, yet? Then do it...
Use the same 15mm socket as the brake caliper to remove the tie-rod end. Once you remove that bolt, the tie-rod should slip free.. If it is slightly stuck, replace the bolt on to the threads, secure it a few turns only, then use the bolt as a stricking surface for a wrench, or small hammer to dislodge the tie-rod end...
DO NOT strike the threads themselves, as you can strip or marr the threads, causing the bolt to not go back on, or become stuck on at a later time.. (see image)
You can also try this:
Once the bolt is out, place a pry bar UNDERNEATH the tie-rod end, and OVER the wheel hub, to pry the tie-rod out of its spot.. If needed, use a soft blow hammer to tap the tie rod out WHILE prying upwards, as shown below:
Now, time to remove the balljoint pinch bolt and we will be almost there!
Using the 18mm socket on one end, and the T-55 Torx bit on the other, secure the Torx head from moving, and apply your counter-clockwise motion to the 18mm head. (turning the Torx head will eventually strip it out, and you want to avoid that as much as possible...)
Below are a few images.. the first two showing each end, repectively, then the third showing the removal process
18mm pinchbolt side
T-55 Torx side
Removal
The ball-joint pinch bolt is out, and you are ready to go, huh? okay... get your long breaker bar, or some other equally sturdy long object, and place it through the control arms opening, and pry downwards causing the control arm to lower and the balljoint to pop out of the pinchbolt retaining hole. It will take about 2 or 2.5 inches of movement on the control arm to pop it out.
Now you have to take the axle out of the splined shaft of the hub. It will most likely be really stuck in there..In that case, take your spindle nut(Axle nut) and replace it on the axle a few turns.. Use your hammer, and hit on the nut to force the axle out the back of the hub. Turning the hub slightly makes for more movement room for the axle (not ALL the way, mind you..) having a friend to pull straight out on the hub itself (where the lug nuts screw on to..) while you hit the axle nut will help make even more room.
Now that you have the axle out, remove the small bolt on the back side of the hub assembly (if you need to see it, look back at the CALIPER REMOVAL picture, and you can see it at the very top, just to the right of the center of the picture.
use your small hammer(or old heavy wrench..:)) and bang the hub assembly downwards until it pops off of there.
DONE
Take your hub to the mechanic, etc, and have the old bearing pressed out, and a new one pressed in.. Installation is reverse of removal.
The axle nut is a one time use, so use a new nut when installing..
Torque the axle nut to 208 ft/lbs!!!
DO I NEED TO SAY THAT AGAIN? TORQUE THE AXLE NUT TO 208 FT/LBS!!!Return your borrowed torque wrench(if you borrowed one) and have a nicer day without that annoying noise!
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