Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications Transaxle Major ATX Slippage P1744

I'm sorry if this has already been answered, but I have searched and have not found anyone's slippage problem as sever as mine. First off, this first started happening three days ago. I would be driving and I would notice that the car is shifting wierd. There was also an engine whine when I would go upwards of 2kRPM. There was a CEL on for quite a while, maybe for the past 200 miles since I cleared it last. This car has the P420 and P430 problem so I just ignored the CEL because I assumed that it was just those two codes again. But to my surprise when I went to Autozone, it was P420 and P1744, which explains the transmission problems. Oh, and also, I had the atx fluid topped off a bit over the max line, which was added in about 3 months ago because of a tranny leak.

Alright, since I got the background info out of the way, 1-2 would be fine, but then 2-3 would pop out of gear, revs would go straight up, it would only hit 3rd if I let off the gas. 3-4 is just about the same as well. It wasn't that bad at first, it was still driveable. I cleared the codes from the car by pulling those two fuses, started the car the next day, and on the drive to school, it decided to pull out of gear entirely. The only solution would be to stop on the side of the road and stop, wait and restart the car, where it would work for a while but then not surprisingly pull out of gear again. I haven't driven it since and am going to change out the tranny fluid tomorrow because it appeared a bit on the brown side(burnt up fluid?). Would it be a total lost cause to change out the fluid in hopes that it would resurrect her?

Kevin

98 Mercury Mystique
ATX
120,000

If your tranny works for a little while after re-setting the codes, that tells me that you likely have a sensor problem. Hopefully, you have not done too much damage ignoring the CEL & can get by with the simple & cheap fix.

Phil (Unisys12) will likely be along to offer you more compresensive advice soon.

Here's some suggestions I made to another member a little over a year ago...

Main Control

*Bolts out of torque specification - Adjust bolts to specification.
*Gasket leaks - Inspect for damage. Repair as necessary.
* 2 - 4 accumulator valve, 3 - 2 control valve (also harsh 3 - 4 shift) stuck, damaged or misassembled - Inspect for damage. Repair as necessary.
*Separator plates damaged - Inspect for damage. Repair as necessary.
*Hydraulic passages damaged - Inspect for damage. Repair as necessary.

Pump Assembly

*Bolts out of torque specification - Adjust bolts to specification
*Gasket damaged - Inspect for damage. Repair necessary
*Pump support seal rings No.3 or No.4 damaged - Inspect for damage. Repair necessary
*Porosity/cross leaks - Inspect for damage. Repair necessary

INT/OD Band and Servo Assembly

*Cushion return springs damaged - Inspect for damage. Repair as necessary.
*INT/OD band damaged, worn - Inspect for damage. Repair as necessary.
*INT/OD band and/or reverse clutch drum assembly worn damaged or misassembled - Inspect for damage. Repair as necessary.

Forward Clutch Assembly

*Seals damaged - Inspect for damage. Repair as necessary.
*Return spring damaged - Inspect for damage. Repair as necessary.
*Friction elements damaged - Inspect for damage. Repair as necessary.

Case

*Band anchor area damaged - Inspect for damage. If damaged, install a new cas... cuts off here and not sure about the rest.

This is just a list of hydrualic related issues that should be checked and/or addressed when troubleshooting harsh 1-2 engaugments.

Electrical is a bit smaller...

Powertrain Control System

*Electrical inputs/outputs, vehicle wiring harnesses, powertrain control module, EPC solenoids, transmission fluid temperature (TFT) sensor, vehicle speed sensor, TSS, throttle position sensor, mass air flow sensor, TCC solenoid, Gearshift Position Sensor - It then leads you to pin point test to perform. Most of which, you have to have a Scan Tool and a special cable.

From the same thread...
P1744 - Excessive slipe detected during full TCC engagment.

What is happening is that the Torque Convertor will not engage/lock (like what hetfield said). This could be a problem with the valve body or the TC itself.

The reason you might be having the harsh shifts after an amount of travel is because the tranny is overheating due to the fact that the TC will not lock. The reason it would over heat is because of the high pressure that must be used to actually lock the TC. That back pressure is not a good healthy thing!!

Is there a way to fix this without dropping the tranny? I doubt it. You could try an additive, but most likely you have mechanical damage to the TC or the piston in the valve body that controls ATF flow to the TC.


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I will sum all this up for you a little more though... Given the past experience of several CEGer's, we have found that this problem can be resolved with a new valve body and TC assembly. I would suggest contacting http://www.axiom.com/ (you will have to us their website to locate a local distributer, they do not take orders over the internet) to obtain your vavle body and you can get a good rebuilt TC from most any parts supply stores. IIRC, O'Rielys carrys this. The valve body is in the neighborhood of $250 and the TC is about $100.

Thanks Unisys12, that's extremely helpful. Although, I know it's most likely a mechanical problem. I'm going to change out the ATF by the drain 2 method with some Mobil1 Synthetic ATF because it was kind of brown. Which means that it has been overheated? Also it (brown ATF) could be a culprit of some minor slippage?

Alright, I have concluded that changing out the ATF does not help. I changed it out, the fluid in there was brown, I did one drain cycle, took it out and it was still slipping.

I am wondering has anyone had experience with AAMCO? They say that they can check to see what's up inside the transmission by hooking it up to a computer for free? I just want to know what it is exactly that is broken and what needs to be fixed. I know that the general consensus is that the torque converter and valve body are the culprits but I want to be 99.999% certain that a certain part is broken so I can go out and buy it and replace it. Thanks.

Kevin

PS. I think I have mentioned, but I did have a P1744 code. Once I cleared it, all hell broke loose. I also think I see the CEL flashing while I was testing it out before.

PPS. I think I totally forgot to mention that I do have a transmission leak. It's right down the middle where it appears the transmission splits open. I have had this leak for as long as I remember.

As a matter fact, I ran across this thread... " 1744 Fixed" which should also prove very helpful.