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.5mm over is .020 . Any further over on a 3.0L and you will have problem finding rings.

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Originally posted by ArizonaDynoChip:
.5mm over is .020 . Any further over on a 3.0L and you will have problem finding rings.




Ain't that the truth! I found that out the hard way on Swazo's engine doing a 1mm overbore.

Rick


Owner of 00 #1611 Silver (Totalled) 98.5 T-Red SVT #6180 Buckshot77@msn.com Misc 3L parts for sale
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So is anyone else interested in this group buy?

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Originally posted by Buckshot77:
Originally posted by ArizonaDynoChip:
.5mm over is .020 . Any further over on a 3.0L and you will have problem finding rings.




Ain't that the truth! I found that out the hard way on Swazo's engine doing a 1mm overbore.

Rick




i have a 1mm overbore also, i couldnt find rings so i had to have my local amchine shop get them for me!


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Originally posted by Keyser:
I'll give you a for instance...my old tour was at the shop 2 days ago. It's a 2.5 with 9:1 pistons and kinger heads, so the compression would be like 8.8:1. It did 325 to the wheels at 12psi with 91 octane crapoline. A 3L you can basically add 50hp to the equation would be my guess. If you have 93 octane I'd do 9:1 with or without the heads done.




I think it depends on a number of factors like intended use for the engine.
I made a nice spreadsheet chart to show how to pick your compression ratio and boost pressure. Feel free to download it from my website link at the bottom of the page.

For a street turbo, I'd go with 9.0 to 9.5 to 1 range. For a more drag race setup I'd probably go 8.5 to 1.

For autocross type of racing where you need to be in and out of the throttle you wouldn't want a low compression motor. You'd be decelerating and then when you needed to punch on a little throttle you wouldn't have that instant response that you are looking for.
In this case I'd suggest 9.5:1 up to stock 10:1 with a low pressure turbo application like what I run (not that I race). This is what I did: At 10:1 with 7 psi, a decent tune, a cheaper priced turbo and your basic performance mods done to intake and exhaust, you're looking at 300 wHP no sweat; on 91 octane even.
If I ordered pistons, it would be 9.5:1 for a 3L.
If you have a 2.5L and you did Kinger's heads where he also machined out the shrouding in the combustion chamber, then I'd go anywhere from 9.5:1 to 10:1. However, 12 psi with this setup is probably the limit on 93 ocatane fuel; or some fun playing with the timing using 91 oct.



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Originally posted by warmonger:
Originally posted by Keyser:
I'll give you a for instance...my old tour was at the shop 2 days ago. It's a 2.5 with 9:1 pistons and kinger heads, so the compression would be like 8.8:1. It did 325 to the wheels at 12psi with 91 octane crapoline. A 3L you can basically add 50hp to the equation would be my guess. If you have 93 octane I'd do 9:1 with or without the heads done.




I think it depends on a number of factors like intended use for the engine.
I made a nice spreadsheet chart to show how to pick your compression ratio and boost pressure. Feel free to download it from my website link at the bottom of the page.

For a street turbo, I'd go with 9.0 to 9.5 to 1 range. For a more drag race setup I'd probably go 8.5 to 1.

For autocross type of racing where you need to be in and out of the throttle you wouldn't want a low compression motor. You'd be decelerating and then when you needed to punch on a little throttle you wouldn't have that instant response that you are looking for.
In this case I'd suggest 9.5:1 up to stock 10:1 with a low pressure turbo application like what I run (not that I race). This is what I did: At 10:1 with 7 psi, a decent tune, a cheaper priced turbo and your basic performance mods done to intake and exhaust, you're looking at 300 wHP no sweat; on 91 octane even.
If I ordered pistons, it would be 9.5:1 for a 3L.
If you have a 2.5L and you did Kinger's heads where he also machined out the shrouding in the combustion chamber, then I'd go anywhere from 9.5:1 to 10:1. However, 12 psi with this setup is probably the limit on 93 ocatane fuel; or some fun playing with the timing using 91 oct.




Well, my intended use is track use (road course/autocross), but since I plan on running the road course much more often and it's a 10 turn 2 mile course, I was looking for more power. The goal is 400-450 WHP ... what would you guys recommend? I will be doing the ADC T3/T4 setup. I was thinking 8.5:1 to be on the safe side when racing (also to push the car further on the dyno for [censored] and giggles). The car will be run on the street, but not too often. When runing on the track, I will be using 100 octane, so I think that I should be able to run 14+ psi on 9.0:1 without a problem right? For my street tune, 93 octane will be used and I'm looking for 325 WHP.

So, knowing my goals, what would you guys suggest ... 8.5:1 OR 9.0:1???

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Are you doing a 2.5L or a 3L?

I'd probably just go 9:1 for either engine.


Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760 356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas! See My Mods '05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red '06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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3L

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Anything further on this? What else needs, or should be done, when changing the pistons? How big a job is it?


dan


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Originally posted by fastcougar:
I was in on the last GB and I meant to change my order last minute and didn't in time, so I have 9.5:1 3L .5mm overbore pistons and I need 8.5:1 3L .5mm overbore instead since I'm planning on a little bit more boost than originally planned. So, put me down for a set:

3L engine
8.5:1 CR
.5mm overbore




I am pretty sure you can Send your pistons back and have them redesign them for the compression you want. assuming from what i have heard you want lower compression so that means taking material off. Call them and see. Might save you time and money...good luck


PLEASE HELP ME GET MY CAR TOGETHER! ITS IN DAYTON OHIO! I need the motor together and in the car so i can DRIVE it! Pleeeeeese! diamond pistons for 3.0/forsale #702 of 2150
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